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The Alloy subframe fits most MQB cars including the Golf R etc... The only thing that wont fit on the Superb is the Alloy LCA's for the Golf. I've been running the ally subframe for over a year now with no issues, with B16 DCC coilovers, Whiteline Front and Rear ARBs and droplinks. I always thought the low speed noise was the top strut mounts which I've just bought and was planning to replaced them. Also once you've installed the B16 DCC remember to recalibrate the DCC values via OBD11, I didn't do that at first and the ride was firm, once calibrated it was much better.

No, you must check before you get there ... go informed, or risk being swallowed! Go, unplug charger, measure, let it "rest" 15min, measure, start, ideal would be to measure while cranking if you got an assistant, then measure once engine starts. It should be immediate ... after that you can turn it off again - a few minutes at least, and then leave it charging until you go to service.

Yes, it's possible. I did it on mine (MK3 280 hp 2021 DNFE). I bought a new subframe, I don't remember if it was from a Passat or Arteon (Ref. 3Q0199369E), and it fits perfectly. I don't know if the one from the Golf is suitable. It's a time-consuming operation, but it's relatively simple. You just have to be careful to replace all single-use bolts and respect the tightening torques. If you're going to do it, I recommend installing subframe centering devices, such as those from Racingline or 034, to ensure proper alignment of the subframe. These photos are of mine as recently installed. Regards

PR code 9U1 also seems relevant, with wear sensor.

Hi, welcome. Whilst if you search this forum you will find this sort of thing has been covered here before you might find more like-minded people and information by looking and/or asking in the 'Fabia Projects' and 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forums of Briskoda. HTH. 'Fabia Projects' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/

Clutch may well be pure coincindence. Sounds like either the master or slave cylinder is either leaking or allowing fluid past the seals. Check for fluid around pedals and also under car. My octavia used to do that. Clutch would hit floor and not return. Flicked it up with my foot and it would be fine for a while. It was the master that had started leaking. Fluid was on the undertray and leaked out when it got winched onto recovery. As for electrics it may need scanned to see if it pings anything up. Alasdair

Yes, they're the B16 DCCs. I just installed them and have only ridden very little, but the shifting is like night and day. I tried it in soft mode, and it's obviously harder than the stock hard mode, but it's still comfortable, at least for me. The floating sensation is gone. You just have to be a little more careful around speed bumps and potholes. As for the ride height, I lowered the rear as little as possible, about 30mm, and the front about 25mm. Bilstein lowers the rear quite a bit. The front could have been higher, but I like how it looks.

TL:DR Buy the vRS. There's so much to consider and we all have different preferences and priorities. The vRS will cost more to run. Pretty much everything will cost more: Tyres, fuel use, insurance, servicing, etc. The vRS will be more fun to drive. It's not just a bigger engine and more go, there's a load of differences that combine to make the vRS a hoot to drive, but the extra near 100HP is not to be sniffed at either. The vRS won't be as comfortable to live with. It's set up to be sporty and practical, but it's definitely going to be less comfortable than the SE Tech. The vRS will likely depreciate less than the SE Tech. With that desirability comes additional risk. 'Orrible scrotes will covet your vRS and if you have to park it on the road in a dodgy area, mind how you go. Especially if you have keyless entry. Beyond that, the better ergonomics of the MK3.5 vRS over the MK4 touch-screen for everything (slight exaggeration) should not be under-estimated. The vRS can be chugged around fairly happily without having to work hard to keep your speed up, but the downside to that (I may get some aggro for this), is that if you fancy a thrash around, the vRS may actually be a bit too much. I'll explain: I have the use of two cars. A 2.0 Octavia TSI SE L remapped to about 230hp, and a Fiesta 1.6 with about 120hp. I can thrash the pants off the Fiesta at relatively sensible speeds. The only time I really give the Octavia full throttle is on motorway slip roads. Bottom line, I don't think you'd regret buying the vRS. You might bemoan the costs and the occasional bumpy ride, and worry about getting it nicked, but it will put a smile on your face that the 1.5 MK4 cannot. You'll never forget the vRS.

Braided lines gone on Only did the fronts as the rears looked a pain to do. All bled up perfect. Pedal feels great, brakes work fantastic AND they're quiet as can be. Made up another engine mount. Replaced the hydroil with 60 shore polyurethane. After a while of curing it went on. Easy job. Feels fantastic so far and NVH is completely fine. Feels better than the wore standard mount that found its way on. Not car related but found a kitten on its own in the shed. On its own and its mam didnt come back so took it home, kept it warm fed etc. Anyway a month on its doing great, So all going pretty well for once.

Hi, thank you for letting me join. I have a Octavia vRS Mk2 pre-face lift. Had her for a number of years and its took some knocks (all while static and minding her own business). Now looking to spruce her up and get her looking respectable again. Hopefully with advice from the forums. Cheers.

Yes they look much better without and easier to clean.

The thing is, this will be my last car with buttons. I just couldn't justify the extra £4,500 for a car I liked less! Could be worse, could be like a Polo hire car I had, with stupid touch sensitive steering wheel buttons.

Agree. They’re designed for fuel efficiency, but car looks 100x better without them and on my last motorway run I even reached 45mpg. Not bad for the running in period 😂 Seems like we’ve got quite the Race Blue gang on here.

If just replacing the actual bare struts solves your problem, then that was the right thing to do - but if it doesn't, what next - starting with the cheapest to replace part and keep going until you have solved this? There is a sort of smart way to avoid re-working this area, and in my world where I don't want or need to revisit this area, I always replace the top mounting and bearing, the bump stop might not need replacing, but you will only know that after you have taken the car off the road, if you can live with repeating all this work a few times, then replacing just first the strut should work okay for you.

@avi4tor there was me thinking the appeal of a Triumph Stag was the old school charm, walnut dashboard, and 1970s unreliability all cloaked in drop dead gorgeous looks 😂😂

Just because I think the car looks far better without them, I really don't like the aero covers at all. Yes,dealer removed them, you need to order a set of wheel nut covers & centre caps

CHPA on v5 Thanks

Varioflex seats were dropped from the spec sometime in 24. My Oct one ( built late Aug / early Sept ) doesn't have them

As I wrote, after the first factory reset I immediately got a question whether I wanted to install an update (unknown whether it was minor or major (ie System update)) or not and I selected "Update" and then it got stuck on "Update of software in progress" for several days. Then I received another update OTA. That update was definitely minor and seemed to get queued waiting for the first one to complete. After a few days the message "Update of software in progress" was all of a sudden gone without a message whether any of the updates had been completed. Then I did another factory reset and immediately after I got questions again whether I wanted to install two updates (I assume it was about the same ones as before). Selected "Update" on both of them. Got a message that the minor one was successfully installed. The other one got stuck on "Update of software in progress" again and as before this message disappeared a few days later (and the version of the infotainment had not changed). So no luck however, with the current version of the firmware of my OCU, it seems like a factory reset is necessary for the car to get in contact with "the mothership" to check whether there exists any previously failed updates and initiate a retry. I'm working a different angle now to try to get this sorted. I will share when I know more.

Front brake PR code for this car is 1LN. That should help disambiguate, I think.

If anyone else comes across this - it was the earth point closest to the starter motor was slightly loose. Removed, wire brushed all surfaces and tightened up and all good.

There are two types of front brake calipers on the 288x25mm front brake discs fitted to the Roomster. The earlier type (TRW front brake calipers) was fitted to model years 2006-2010, and the later type (ATE front brake calipers) was fitted to model years 2011-2015. The front brake calipers for the earlier type come with either brake pads WITH a brake pad wear warning contact or brake pads WITHOUT a brake pad wear warning contact...as shown in the diagrams below. Front brake pads TRW GDB1472 (with wear warning contact) 6Q0698151C Front brake pads TRW GDB1414 (without wear warning contact) 6Q0698151A Front brake pads ATE 13.0460-7184.2 (with wear warning contact) 5K0698151

Thanks, Lee. There is something there, although I can't make it out. When I search by reg or even by part number, sometimes there are several options. As an example, ordering the correct discs that came with the wrong pads! Or being told these will fit your vehicle (on a parts site/eBay( when I know from the diameter/width that they won't fit. Just trying to get a better understanding of how to navigate the parts minefield. @Carlston was very helpful with the caliper info yesterday, although more than one option appears when I search for the part number. And when I use the part number from that website for pads, searches often return two options. My old pads and the new ones that don't fit! @Breezy_Pete has also been super helpful, so hopefully one of them will happen along and enlighten me! Cheers, Joe.

Although not linear, if you added 17 / 41 litres of 91RON and 24 / 41 litres of 95RON then ended up with about 93.3 overall But you probably already had about (I am guessing here) 10 litres already in the tank, so overall would have been nearer 94RON (including existing and two top ups) But fuel is sold with specs quoted as a minimum, not an average, so chances are your 91 was actually 91 and a bit, and 95 was really 95 and a bit. As a one off I wouldn't worry, but if it really freaks you out, as soon as you have a few litres space in the tank add some high RON fuel, it will all get mixed up (and every time you go around a corner it will mix a bit as will slop around in the tank). It's not like you have accidentally stuck some diesel in there.

Nope not at all... (See above post)

Hi, welcome. This is too little information (for me at least) what on the car has stopped - everything, engine, etc., etc.. No electric to what, the whole car, ignition, etc., etc.. You could start with the clutch pedal or at the 12v battery and it's connections and go from there, or ignition switch. The computers rule the roost, if one bit's faulty they might not let you operate the rest, or the clutch might be mechanical, how's the brake fluid level.

It's not the ethanol concentration it's the higher RON value that is beneficial (provided the ECU tuning has maping for the higher RON).

Not everyone has trouble finding suitable aftermarket replacement shock absorbers for the Yeti. All Yeti models are covered by the below three Bilstein B4 shock absorbers. The selection of the front shock absorbers depends on whether the struts are 50mm or 55mm. The rear shock absorbers are the same for all models. Bilstein B4 front shock absorbers (for Yeti with 50mm struts) 22-183712 (sold to replace 1K0413031BG, 1K0413031BK, 1K0413031BL) Bilstein B4 front shock absorbers (for Yeti with 55mm struts) 22-183729 (sold to replace 3C0413031BC) Bilstein B4 rear shock absorbers (for Yeti...all models) 19-183749 (sold to replace 1K0513029EN, 1K0513029MN, 1K0513029MQ)

I keep three versions back. The complication with the connected services is whether in contract or not. If in contract for map updates then then off line thread isnt for you. If shifting from contract services to a six monthly off line MartiniBs threads are and you need to know your yyyy.mm which is really the map seriel release in the unit. If @MartiniB link as posted above has a latter yyyy.mm then you are in business for a USB map update. It is the same as mib2 its the seriel number of the map release which is the key. Offline maps tend to be released June / November but appear on the file servers earlier discovered by those people that look for them. Also Vag sub brands get lazy at publishing them and drag their heels. Hence you take the first Vag brand one released and dont wait for your tardy brand to publish it. Its all the same. At the minute all releases for June are out and we seem to have the mib2 standard November release as well.

Torque values were all met and some of these were on brand new subframes. More than welcome to have a look at all the Facebook groups and you’ll see it

In the UK 95RON fuel IS E10 so all the Octavia owners here who have been filling with 95RON have been filling with E10 for many years. Even our 97/98/99RON is E5.

I've had my race blue hatch for a few weeks now after upgrading from a 72 plate manual vrs. Definitely a more refined car & really happy with it so far. Still getting used to my first dsg. I've removed the aero covers & I think it looks far better without. 3rd vrs & to me definitely the best looking alloys. Standard spec apart from winter pack & a rear wiper to keep it just under 40K!! New & old 😊

Cheers for the feedback. Getting rid of the boat feeling is perfect tbh. Confort is fine on rubbish road surfaces but any actual weight shifting and the thing doesn’t stop moving. On a dual carriageway at speed it feels almost dangerous if you’re on a bed and there’s an undulation. Just hope it’s not so stiff the Mrs (a) notices and (b) hates it. I’ve got decent guys working on it so any little tips and tricks they’ll know for sure although I thought @AMD87 was talking about the subframe - or am I wrong? Can’t find on internet in general about B16 knocking except for a few instances of spring problems as you’ve mentioned Jusseppe

5Q0 035 820 C does NOT support SmartLink. If you want to use SmartLink you must have infotainment reader (glove box unit) replaced with Bolero 5Q0 035 842 C / 565 035 842 or Amundsen 5Q0 035 874 C / 565 035 874.

My vRS is, again, the most well-rounded and balanced car I've driven. @Ootohere will confirm, but I think aside from the annual servicing, the only think you need to check out is that the VAQ (differential) was serviced at 20,000 miles. The engine cover was VAG wide - bit annoying but is what it is. Ditto with MIB3. I wanted a Mk4 for the Matrix and better interior. I bought a Mk3.5 for everything else. I just couldn't get on with the lack of buttons. Mine does have the digi dash and everything.

I've been using Total Ineo long life 5W30 in my 2.0 TDI was good value, recently used Shell HX8 ECT, engine runs like a dream with it. My advice though would be use the oil finder on the likes of Shell, Castrol and see what they recommend for your engine. Do not use Halfords finders they've always been off. For coolant I've been using some G13 from Euro Car Parts, the current recommended stuff is G12 Evo though. Personally I would go to Euro Car Parts, you can check stock in your local branch and if it's not on display give the guys the item code and it usually down the back.

You used to get an amber warning light for the windscreen washer fluid...

As above. The car would have been fine for the rest of your trip. There were very few warning lights on the car that are “stop driving immediately”. Even the check engine light is rarely linked to anything that critical (usually just a malfunctioning sensor)

Possibly cam cover sealant leaking. Very common 60k miles plus.

Are you able to test the voltage at the battery terminals while the engine is running? This will confirm if the fault is with the alternator, which appears likely.

Fixed. Managed to find a part number from another vag car. All same coloured cables only difference was the one I found had a white plug and not green. Noticed the plastic guides were different. Swapped the wire to the green plug and all works now

Just confirmed on an order for a stock car. 60 SE L in trigiano green with lodge, 20" wheels and transport pack. Should be ready to collect start of Sept.

I would take off the charcoal cartridge and weigh it before I start changing other parts which may not be needed - as I said in the earlier post my nearest main dealer had 3 in stock which shows it must be a common issue, the mechanic at the main dealer told me this is the first thing they do when this fault code is showing Our canister weighed 1200grammes -(new one was 900grammes) changing it solved the problem as the fuel contamination reduces the flow which is picked up by the EVAP sensor and then throws up the fault code That was 6 months ago - no problems since

The heated steering wheel goes with the heated front seats I don't't have the wireless charging, but then I connect the phone by USB anyway. I do have the front and rear parking sensors I find the varioflex seats great, as I have had them out of the car 2 or 3 times in 9 months. Though I made a cover to go between the outer seats that means when the middle one is down there it covers the gap to the boot.

There are two on the propshaft from memory - one at the front near the gearbox / transfer case and one at the rear in front of the Haldex coupling. As above the rear one seems to be the one that causes most issues but both can deteriorate. Skoda will apparently only supply a complete propshaft at a ridiculous cost but the couplings are available individually from third party suppliers and are common across the platform.

Usually the coupling at the rear of the propshaft is worse. But that can mean felt at the front of the shaft. Inspection required. More expensive leaving things longer & a good competent mechanic involved is not a false economy.

OK I have managed to successfully complete this job without removing subframe. Here are my tips. Grind head flat. Punch in centre Use colbalt drills. Start with 4mm go up to 8.5mm in 1mm increments. Use a lot of cutting oil. x1 colbalt fluted HSS tap 10x1.5. Tap 1/4 turns, rotate back. Clean and add cutting oil frequently. Be prepared to tap 1hr per hole. Buy genuine bolts. Good luck if you ever need this advice.