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Owww a spare without a subwoofer… 😇 Mine runs on 18”s, firm but comfy. The 16”s are in the shed, being almost brandnew, and staying like that. On 16”s it feels wobbly in corners, much more prone to understeer.

There is Built In Test Equipment (BITE) for doing this, no need to replace sensors as Halfrauds suggested.

Good afternoon Just purchased a 3 month old Kamiq. Love it. So much better than our small Seat Ibiza

Popped over to the new charging hub on the south side of the ring road of Droitwich which is only just over 4 miles away from home in north Worcester. What I wonderful expetlrience. Was teaching my son the process of Public Charging for his Mini Cooper E. Site has 8 (no) 150 kw Kempower chargers, a Cosco Coffee restaurant and a Sainsbury's local. Just a training exercise for my laddo so get him to put the Mini on charge, get a couple of hot chocolates and head by home. Charger hit around 65 kws, small battery and no battery precondition done but warming ambient of low 20's C. 10.25 kws, price of power is 60p per kwh nominally but Electroverse gives 5% discount as well as delayed payment, month or months. Hot chocolates cost about the same as power up ie about £5.50, mad world.

I think you need an expert mechanic you can trust. But don't despair, it's essentially a good engine when running right.

Declare anything not factory standard or dealer option fitment, but that need not mean the premium loaded. The Haldex is not serviced to the Manufacturers Recommendations, Guidelines, Schedule or specification, but many Skoda / VW Approved cars are not, and they give them a warranty.

Wonder if its been remapped before you got it. Have seen a few octavia diesels remapped (obviously badly) and they all have black soot on the tailgate. Not sure how you would be able to tell but someone on here may know. Alasdair

Couple of shots from the last game of the season..

I put my battery on charge around every 3-4 weeks (C-tek) my milage is lower than usual due to operation complications

I run mine at the pressures given, usually at 39 and 40 psi (front & rear respectively) increasing to 46-49 on the rears when loaded up. The car is on 205/55R17 tyres and feels fine in wet and dry conditions, tyres last well (originals did 44k miles), fuel economy is excellent.

I actually just did this job today, My motor started clicking a few months ago and I only just got time to do so. I didn't purchase a new motor, I fixed* my current one. I found that, somehow, it had popped it's casing off. The black cog seen below was the culprit. Upon repositioning the black cog correctly, amongst some cleaning and greasing, I put the casing back on and found two of the clips that hold the casing on were loose and let it pop out easily, so I stuffed some tissue behind them to help hold the casing firmly shut. I then spent what felt like an eternity trying to put the motor back in the correct position. Note when returning the motor into place, the correct positioning for the cogs, and note the 2 arrows indicating the "key"; *This diagram is from a RHD Model, so its flipped. *I dont know how long the fix will last, Maybe ill need to purchase a new motor. But for now, its working

Eleventh month stats from the car Jul-Aug Includes 768mile from Devon back to Devon then home again 1,157mile @ 4.5m/kwh = 257.11 kwh. (120kwh Dc charging £97.40) + [email protected] (£35.50) = £132.90 My Mondeo would have averaged 60 mpg for 768m 0f these 1.157m (£76.55) and 35mpg for 389m @£1.329 litre (£66.46) = £143.01 Long term guessometer now reset. Stat from the GOM the car has been on for 39.21 hours and averaged 30mph.

That’s good to know that it’s normal as I was worried it was something serious. Just the light coming on and off is all that it’s done and only once since I’ve owned the car. No errors message or anything. This is the first car I’ve had with a Dpf so very new to it all. Thanks everyone for there help your all amazing 🤩

The transparent plastic in the mirror is for auto mirror dimming. There is also a very faint circle with horizontal lines in the lower middle of the mirror glass if this feature is included. Basically if light makes into the interior sensor but the outer one is dark, the mirror dims to stop the driver from being dazzled by drivers from behind. On the superb all 3 mirrors dim, i assume it is similar here given a high enough spec

Here's the new abs cable bracket I've made up. Fitted With cable routed I made one for the other side, but it seems that I forgot to take a pic.

Dear all Yesterday, my magic light 😄 goes off suddenly. I think it is about the software bug and still goes off till now. If it illuminates again, I will inform you.

Hello! Bought my Skoda Octavia RS TDI last year and now looking at modifying it. the other half is modifying the Mini, and it's beginning to make the Octy look a little underwhelming, so Figured I'd sign up here for help, tips, advice, and to share progress, various odd finds, and other information that I come across. This car is also a little bit of a project for me. I want to modify it both performance wise (I'm aware my options are heavily limited with it being a TDI) and cosmetically, but I'm aiming for an OEM+ look both internally and externally - I want to avoid the stereotype of having ramraided my local Halfords, so will mostly be using parts from other MQB platform vehicles, parts from Super Skoda (Kopacek), and occasionally, parts for completely different vehicles that have been modified to fit. I'm based in the East Midlands of the UK, near the city (replace the C with SH) of Milton Keynes, always looking for local car groups to join and do things like coffee meets etc. The car itself has a chequered service history, and is having a few issues so between it and myself, have a very on/off or love/hate relationship, but as much as it likes watching me perform open wallet surgery I do intend on having it looked after properly and taken care of and I'm already painfully aware of the potential pitfalls of this - Ask me how I know how sensitive the DSG box is to oil changes and what happens when it doesn't get them at the required intervals! Lol Looking forward to being part of the Briskoda community and sharing knowledge and enthusiasm for these cars!

It was disassembled from 5Q1 953 507 GA. Probably if slipper 5Q159354F comes from 5Q1 953 507 GF will work without problems. GA have different ACC switch so that mean 5Q159354F have different configuration inside. I found that some different software are available, by paying 30 eur I can download GF software. So far I have no idea how to upload that without any damage. I uploaded some datasets into 1 level ECU several times, but this is subsystem. That the reason why I asking if someone have some experience on that.

Good afternoon/ evening @agdeam and welcome to Briskoda.

Glad you’re happy with the Kamiq! My wife has an Arona so basically the same thing in a different dress and loves it so much she’s in her second

sorry for the bump, i recently got the Burteq memory module for Octavia mk 4 https://burteq.com/products/octavia-4-memory-module?variant=48608674808132 based on the recommendations in this thread, and had it installed - it works perfectly. it basically saves your current settings (drive mode, start-stop on/off) and resets them every time you open ignition. i had it professionally installed, the installer told me its connectors are of high quality. it also features "service mode" in which you can easily disable the module with 9 clicks on a single driving mode

Cheers mate that's great 👍🏻 but trying to get a decent mechanic who isn't ready to ride you along is near on impossible today.

4x4 ride is significantly better than 2wd due ti thd combination of R45 tyres and the multilink rear suspension, 2wd have a beam axle. Reducing diameter and increase sidewall height will affect the handling. My Karoq came with Bridgestone Duellers, which are. Summer tyre, I find the ride OK and road holding is excellent, I will be changing ti Michelin Cross Climates or Goodyear All Season when they wear out. I am expecting to get 20k miles out of the set. I would see how it performs with the existing wheel tyre setup at least till the current tyres wear and need replacing. Whatever warranty you decide on make sure it includes the gearbox if DSG, the Haldex, DPF and EGR. The EGR can clog up and fail with low miles/ short journeys. There is space in the boot for a space saver spare and tools which has the benefit of raising the boot floor. The factory space saver includes the tools and the polystyrene storage that fits around the spare.

I did my sons and it took a while to bed in properly. First I thought it was slipping and what had I done wrong and had a bit of judder but after a day or two was smooth. Was a fair bit of smoke from front of car at first but reckon it was the old clutch fluid burning off as I replaced the slave cylinder as his was leaking slightly. Run the car for a few days and if it doesnt improve speak to mechanic again. £900 for a new clutch and full service isnt a bad price at all these days. Was quoted £700 plus vat just to do the clutch on his fabia so I did it myself. Alasdair

I had periodic black smoke under load (say, a hill start and four passengers) last year and periodic vibration starting on acceleration. Restarting cured that... for a bit. No errors/dash lights. They were signs of a failing injector, which went just before Christmas. There was finally a dash light once the injector actually died. Diagnosed by a Skoda/VW specialist swapping the injector (one) with injector two and seeing if the error followed, which it did. ONe new injector later, good as new.

Sounds like your short trips are longer then many other owners trips and you use less electric than some other owners (and probably less wasteful about the use). A 2019 Polo would (probably) have less comfort features and possibly less driver "aids" and "assists" than later years (thank gawd in my tastes) with perhaps the computers going into rest sooner after you park and lock up and you probably have less gadgets running with the car in use or parked up. In the VWŠkoda 'Owner's manuals' (well the ones I've looked at) it has to disconnect the battery if the car isn't used for 4-weeks and later 3-weeks (IiRC) this will be over cautious for some and perhaps good advice for others but they will generally be the ones to ignore it and the car will generally open and engine will generally start so reinforcing that things like this can be dismissed, which often they can - but of course the number one reason for breakdown call-outs is . . . Very few owners read the 'Owner's manual' (for anything if it's a Billy-big-*******s macho man, or many engineers or tradesmen) other than perhaps very rare occasional glances and of course now many they consult the internet for everything where they may well find the correct info, or near enough (or not). Some take great exception to me charging my wife's 2015 car 12v battery to 100%, seem to take it as a personal assault on them, and rightly point out the car's system will soon have it back to it's ay 80% charge but total missing or ignoring why I charge the battery to 100%. An occasional preventative recharge using my Ring 4-amp charger maintainer has taken up to 15 hours (IIRC) which also seems to upset some but my attendance in this is about 5-minutes including getting the charger out of the shed and hooking it up an, putting away again and very occasional glances from inside a warm, dry building. It's clean-hands, very easy, quick and comfortable 'work' which is very unusual when farting about with cars and I can be away from the car doing something more interesting than farting about with cars which for me is most things.

Skoda specify 225 width tyres for all wheel sizes on the 4x4, with 5% profile difference between rims. So you'll be gaining just under 11mm in sidewall for each rim size you go down. Obviously the smaller the wheel, the more you gain. Worth noting the 19" rims are 8J, 18 & 17" 7J & 16" 6J. Some say switching the 19" to all-season tyres makes a big difference, but it's an expensive gamble if it doesn't produce the result you want. I have an SEL on 18" & considering going smaller. But first thing to do is speak to your insurer to understand the implications of changing wheels on your premium.

Driven right the 1.6 is a sprightly diesel , I had a ton out of mine on the way back from picking it up , but I'm having to drive it more carefully as clutch is starting to go slowly

@Johngerard these VW stop/start cars will first not operate the stop/start system when the battery is too low for the computer system then if the battery isn't charged enough, by driving the car enough with enough net input to the battery, or using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the 'Owner's Manual' and for charger maintainer, then unexpected various issues, warnings and unseen error codes can follow. There are lots of threads and posts on Briskoda about this for the various models. It confuses some owners as they think the battery is fine because the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts easily on key turn / button press, but this is the last thing to go and by then obviously the battery is very low (but possibly can still be recovered for more reliable use but that depends on how much and how long it's been flogged). Modern cars are not like the older cars as the engine still starts even when the battery is far to low for the liking of the computer systems. Until 3 years ago, and for the previous 16 years, my one and only everyday (and all else) car was a 1973 MG Midget which was a basic car even when new had it been a few months older it would have had a dynamo rather than an alternator, four fuses in the box plus a factory inline. Previous to the MG Midget going back 15-20+ years from it I had various British 60s and 70s cars as everyday, commute, work, holidays and club events use so I've always known the importance of having a good battery in good condition as generally if the engine starts you could at least get home in the car. I was bought a battery charger by my neighbour in the 90s but only once had to use it in our old, or new, cars and that was totally my fault for flattening the battery trying to start it when I'd messed something up on the car - then my wife bought a VW stop/start product . . . Well done on getting 6.5 years out of the battery so far, VW want you to change the battery at 4(?) or 5 years (have a look in your 'Owner's Manual' and many owners don't get that far. Also one person's definition of a short journey is a reasonable length journey to another, I'm use to neighbours' car doing less than 1,000 miles or less a year some hardly into hundreds, two at the moment have been months without being driven.

Good morning @Ashbrice and welcome to Briskoda.

Hi All, UPDATE: I took the car to Winchester Skoda on Thursday.. long story short they got to the point where they acknowledged that there was a fault, but that they are not able to fix it without more info from Skoda. They are in the process of getting that info and will rebook the car in when they have a fix to try and implement.. all of it seems to revolve around the OCU and some CANBUS errors... Let's see what Skoda say.. I have collected the car and now I'm waiting for them to call me to rebook it in. In the meantime there are some things on my car that now don't work - but that is to be expected - i'm not going to bother setting it all up again, that can wait for it to be fixed. They do want it for 3/4 days next time though! One other thing of note - I had a loan car while mine was in... a 24 plate Kamiq... I hated it, the ride was crazy firm, it was loud, the seats were really uncomfortable and the brakes were incredibly aggressive... but wow; it was economical..! got well over 55mpg in the two journeys to and from Oxford... While my superb IV was getting about 40MPG... Just wanted to update you all :)

If you have a scrap yard near you see if they have any that might fit. Take your car and try a few from skoda/audis etc Alasdair

OK, is it suffering from a lack of power, or just black smoke? My thoughts on the likely issue depend on this answer.

I have a Jan 2019 Polo with only ~ 23000 miles, all short runs, stop/start used selectively. The Battery SOC never exceeds 83%/85%, I have a DVM plugged into the internal power point which is quite reasonably accurate as checked with a accurate Multimeter, the voltage here always reads ~ 0.2V < than the battery terminal volts but is quite OK for checking charging pattern. The charging volts sits around 13.5V under normal driving but will always increase to 14.8V on the overrun. Recently when the SOC was only 73% I went on a round trip of 2hrs duration and the battery charged continuoisly at 14.8V for most of the trips duration but did fall to 13.5V about 15 minutes before reaching home. The "SOC 73%" scan was taken just before that trip but the "SOC 83%" scan wasnt taken until a month + ~ 530 miles later, the scans may be oft interest. What is interesting is that even with only a SOC of 73% the charging voltage/current fell from 14.96V/16.5A to 13.51V/2.2A in only 33 seconds, this with the car idling but once on the road continuously charged at 14.8V, BMS at its best for economy? SOC 73%.txt SOC 83%.txt

The dongle has built in WiFi. The phone connects to the dongle WiFi (replacing the usb cable) and to the car bt

I don't suppose you got the emission figures (maybe on a print out) from the exhaust gas testing machine. Might help narrow it down.

^ aka "Italian Tune-Up" :)

Fill the car up with good quality fuel and some injector cleaner. Fill the car with people and luggage. Go for a good drive on a road where you can get the revs up, ideally with a good uphill run so you're working the car hard. See what the smoke situation is during and after the drive. If it doesn't help at all, do what @Warrior193 suggested. A good hot work-out under load can do smokey diesels the world of good. This is good stuff, but other products are available.

Had Farad aero bars on my last estate. When I switched to my current 2024 Superb estate the roof rails are closed type and the Farads had to go. Lovely bars though Recommended.

@omeromeryigit i have to. Disconnected until i get a new unit thank you for your explaination

I have read all off your comments. Damn i have the same problems. Turning on and off when the car is closed and volume goes on mute. I have made the disconnection that @omeromeryigit supposed and for now it is oke. Volume is on the steeringwheel. For now no powerbuttun or volumebar/slider But the dealer keeps me waiting and waiting so i orderded a Hardware version H49 from a 2024 Octavia and i am going to put that one in. Hope this week to recieve it. Paid a 400 euros but it is worth it. On RRR.lt are more to find. Hope if you need one you will able to find one. They are rare and hard to find. the older crappy versions are plenty. Thanks to all off you for sharing there problems story's and solutions.

Mine was an 08 plate. I got it when it was about 10 year old and it had a few bits of rust around the rear panel just before the rear wheels. I tried to keep on top of it but alas it was a bit down hill after that. Still lasted another 7 years but underneath became bad with bad sub frame corosion. Saying that it was only the last couple of years that holes started appearing in sills. Managed to cover them for a year but last year would have taken a lot of time and effort for MOT so bought a cheapish 12 plate. Its developing rust in exactly the same places (front wheel arch, rear numberplate and rear panels in front of rear wheels. but sills seem to be better painted. Did notice when changing timing belt that there is a lot of crap behind front wheel arch plastic that was causing corosion so removed both sides and gave a good clean pus waxoil. It depends what part of the country it comes from. Up in Inverness they use a lot of salt so cars tend to die much earlier no matter what you do. My sons 06 plate fabia mk1 came from I think somerset and has virtually no rust at all. Alasdair

Dear All, My story is still not finished. I am still waiting for fuel pressure valve to be changed. But after large update in June, i had zero errors.

Alcantara differs mostly about getting the fibres to sit up again. I know people who tend to use a damp cloth and only move onto a product for any particular stains. I’d say start with a damp flannel. The fibres on there will help to lift up the alcantara fibres and you’ll be surprised how much dirty comes off too. It’s a good/cheap/easy way to clean much of your interior surfaces to be honest. A bucket of warm water to rinse, ring it out really well so the cloth is wet but not depositing water and you can do everything from steering wheel, dash, seats, seatbelts, door cards. The bucket will not be clean by the end. I use white flannels and then chuck them in a hot wash with bio powder after as some of that is biological dirt (ie skin oils etc)

Thanks!

Hi all. I’m considering biting the bullet and overhauling the the suspension on my Sportline Plus 272. Factory set up is just too bouncy for me and after 14 months of ownership I’m now at a cross roads. Chop it in for something with better ride characteristics or take a car that I 85% love and try and sort the last 15% out (being the ride). I’ve a good idea of the components I’ll need but where I’m hoping you guys can help is for any recommendations of places to get the work done in the North West (Preferably Manchester / Greater Manchester). I’ve googled the life out of garages and read reviews but I’m always wary of bogus reviews both good and bad, so looking for personal recommendations from people who have tried and tested garages they use for both modifications and general maintenance work. Garages that you are confident leaving your cars there knowing you’ll get the jobs done with care and at a decent price. ( I don’t want much do I?🤣) Any help on this would be gratefully received. Work I want doing is lowering springs AND new shocks, most likely Bilsteins as they tend to have a pretty solid following on here. Cheers.

Many thanks - you put me on the right path. I’ve just located the problem:

Looks like a plan for one of them 15 minute cities Gaz

Forgot about one electrical fix that happened a few weeks back. Cabin fan resistor replacement. Wasn't working on speed 1, unacceptable. Researched it on here and found a thread that covered it, although at one point (in a vid?) it's claimed that the three M6 fasteners that hold the airbag in have Tx27 heads. That wasn't helpful, cos they're Tx30, and it makes it even easier to drop one if the tool is a loose fit... Lost one deep in the dash, just found something similar to replace it with. Hope the stray one doesn't cause any issues wherever it ended up.

Pretty accurate methinks, when the belt snaps the engine self destructs and most of the vehicles are scrapped due to the high repair costs, the belts lasted the entire life of the vehicles.