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They've replaced 2 coil packs and spark plugs, getting it back soon....

I'm buggered then, Lol.

Just thought I'd give an update on this. The crankshaft position sensor was toast- literally. Fitted new sensor which was a pig of a job and all problems solved. Light grey is the new sensor and the melted one speaks for its self haha. The car had gotten stuck in a field towing a rather large trailer and the clutch/flywheel was red hot. With where sensor is located at the rear of the engine it got pretty hot also

There is another update for AA available today. Hopefully this one will fix stuff. You may find complaints about that from people driving other cars as well, so Skoda has nothing to do with that.

I ended up flattening my curved badges somehow, probably with a hammer. They're still on a few years later, although the paint has flaked away.. probably from the hammer

Yes, it was my dashcam complaining about something. Glad it not the Skoda complaining!

Im well impressed, I thought my mk2 was a good drive. This is a lot better, still getting use to all the equipment though. 👍

Hi , My driving license is up for renewal next year and it's really easy to remove the oldies from the road ( I am 75 ) thus removing the car numbers. I fully support a fair driver assessment by a qualified accessor but no based on age.If you are caught driving in a reckless manor twice in two years your driving by standard should be apprised but regardless of age. I personally believe that we should employ a zero alcohol driving limit for drivers reaching retirement and a mobility standard again should be set. I witnessed yesterday an old couple having great trouble entertaining a high performance sports and I believe the driver was not in real control when driving off. I live in a small town that had in realty no buses and a train service that again has a cancellation level that is totally unacceptable. Driving standards should be assessed regardless of age.

@Warrior193 Probably try that next, just for peace of mind for winter ...... I think the battery is in good nick. I still like the idea of the solar charger but not sure my 12v socket (F40 1 series) remains live. And I was never actually sure to be honest, if it did anything, It just has a little green led on it, Lol..... I think it did tho.

Super useful! Thank you very much.

Yes, alternator is working as intended.

You might have got £15,000 from Motorway ????? I have heard good things about their service ... though this was some time ago. If you're happy then all is well and good.

Purchased a Draper 53489 ......... £32 Awaiting delivery Prevention rather than a cure. It's resting voltage read 12.52 volts after circa 72 hours car sat on drive. (me, sat on bike, Lol) According to info found, probably Ai, this is above 90% charge and indicates that battery is still good after near 4 years ........ I'm assuming it is it's original battery. Thanks guys.

Hi tnx for solution, but i cant as i dont have second key, as it will delete user profile, i will not be able to save my new profile again. Maybe Kgarv can try this solution. Hope it will help💪 Br Djadjo

I have been in touch with my local Skoda dealer and they have informed me its 140000 miles or fifteen years .. I think I wiil get mine done in another two years .. Thank you all for your replies

I have read that OTA updates should not be performed whilst the battery is on charge, they should not be paused or stopped once started, and that the vehicle should remain locked until the update completes - https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/software-update-faq. I suspect that if any of these rules are not followed then the update does not complete cleanly and the reboot doom loop occurs. However if the sytem is then powered down by removing the Infotainment fuse or disconnecting the battery then the system reboots cleanly. At least that has been my experience so far.

I have an Octavia IV 2020, it was affected by endless reboot, the MIB was also switching on when the car was switched off , I have resolved the issue by replacing the battery since that maintenance action I had not a single reboot. I was a little bit disappointed on left the car at the dealer to just perform a software update which cost up to 100€ for few minutes, my car is out of guaranty, I don't know why my car is not receiving the OTA. by reading the improvement on last FW 1985 I have found that there is a fix which should improve the handling of car failures/alerts. I have also connected an OBD interface and the only active event was the Start & Stop anomaly the MIB version is 1969, which is quite new , after the battery replacement I had not a single reboot, so when your MIB start on reboot maybe there is some equipment which is sending error or alerts and the MIB does not handle well them.

Good morning, take a look at a post @peter3197 put up in March 2021 'Idiots guide to coding for new battery' - The post was for VCDS but should point you in right direction. Important data to change is the new battery capacity, type (if changed) - and new serial number (which can simply be a change to the last digit of the original number)

Good morning Gary, Skoda dropped the mandated 5-year belt change about two years ago to align their servicing with the rest of the VAG brands. I'm not certain what the change mileage is now - but I'm pretty sure it's more than 100K. There is a whole thread on the current belt change recommendation.

It shouldn't matter horizontal or vertical mounting. I did horizontal as that is OEM for the likes of Golf, Passat, Kodiaq etc etc - so I followed that. It's been 5 plus years now - no issues with rain or water getting in.

Some shots from Holy Island. Settings were all over the place for the camera after Knockhill. Didn’t realise til afterwards. Castle is a phone shot.

The Auto Bild all season tyre test is now available 1st : Pirelli all season SF3 2nd Continental all season contact 2 3rd Michelin cross climate 3 sport Etc https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre-Tests/2025-AutoBild-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm

I tried using SWDL, but it turned out to be useless and didn’t work. I still ran the update with the same software that’s currently installed. From the whole update, only the postscript part was executed, and as I understand it, that was the key step. After that, I found out that Seat and Cupra had also updated the maps on their website and released version P141 24.12. I copied it to a USB stick, formatted in NTFS with a GPT partition scheme, and tried updating - and it worked. Then I uploaded the latest version, P154 25.6, and it was successfully installed as well. Hopefully this will be useful for someone. P.s. after "reapplying" the software update, the radio database version changed from 1.31.56 to 1.31.48, so I think that’s what helped the maps install, by resetting something in the MIB versions.

This is my new SE L 1.5 DSG. Note the 'Hydrus' alloy wheels, which replaced the 'Procyon' with the aero inserts (from around June/July according to the dealer)

So I appreciate this is a long old time ago, however, how have the Special Actives performed? I’m about to go all in with H&R and Special Actives so would be great to get a first hand review / opinion of them please?

Before you put the wheel back on, put a bit of copper grease (only a very small amount) around where the alloy wheel and the steel hub meet. This will make life much easier when you have to remove the wheel next time.

Steel hub + aluminium alloy wheel = corrosion

You just need to keep knocking it side to side or get under it and knock from the back With a rubber mallet The rims stick on the centre hub due to corrosion

@zorglub Yes this is done by vcds, but its poor explained and I ask myself why. Whole world uses hardware to disable it, or sw possibility is only to rewrite ecu to disable SS. Not obd11 or vcds….or someone prove me wrong on MQB 2024. I have found modules but didnt disable it..just due not to trigger CP or some unknown state of car. BR Djadjo

Quite normal, no problem. Any rust on the faces will burn off at the next application. My 1990 Audi 90 20v used to eat vented front brake discs as a light snack when I ran it as my company car, changed at every other service at around 20,000 miles while the pads lasted around 2 1/2 discs..... I did use Greenstuff pads though for less black dust and better intitial bite.

+1 on 'normal'. I switched to VBT discs after the the rim on both front and rear brakes got too much, but that was after 5+ years' daily use.

Agreed, this is normal

I think that's not meant to be malicious, you're thinking too much

Turn on the seat heating and rear window heating, then the alternator voltage should reach to 14.6V. This is controlled via the LIN.

I have the EA888 Gen 3b 2.0TSI on a 69 plate hatchback. I find the engine really good. responds well, quiet and shows no sign of being underpowered pulling around the Superb. I have only covered 35,000 miles but still found the engine trouble free.

I've no issues with a fair retest at any age. TBH why not retest every 10yr, doesn't need to be the full thing just a brief drive around with a qualified person to check you're safe and a few questions to cehck you're not mental. Drink drive limit can never be 0 because naturally your body produces a little bit, some food contain a tiny amount (apples for example) and testing below a certain level is unreliable. TBH the current levels are ok I think. People who are a danger are way over that or drug driving which is likely a bigger problem these days

The newer 2.0 litre engine you are referring to is generally a great engine, the one with the problems you describe refer to the older 1.8 petrol engine.

Of course 😀👍😂😂 Tell you what tho, The acceleration when flooring it is NEVER gonna get old!!👍🚗👍🚗👍🚗

The Enyaq configurator recently changed to include ventilated seats for the Suite option (and is now £2,200 rather than £2000 previously from memory!): Design Selection Package - Suite Black with seat ventilation in front No change that I can see for Elroq. Having had ventilated seats on a previous car, I would also swap them in a heartbeat in place of the massage option!

Seems daft that they don't have 1 spec for the whole of Europe. We have the Suite interior which has perforated leather so it would be easy for them to add ventilation. I think the massage seats are a waste of time, and I would gladly swap them for ventilated.

You are correct indeed, it's massage seats in the UK. This whole faff around leaving standard options out in one region Vs the other is BS . VAG and Skoda have a lot to learn and better do it quickly as the Chinese are coming quickly

In June, I traded in my 71 plate race blue SportLine for a 25 plate graphite grey SE, but have just got around to uploading a photo.

My new baby ........ 85 SportLine Goes like thingywotsit off a stick 😃 Got 3.1 miles/kWh absolutely thrashing the acceleration and cruising at 80-85 on motorway! Looking forward to seeing what I get driving more sensibly 😇

Maybe I'm blind and deaf, but I cant find her talking about ventilated seats in this video? She talks about heated seats in the back though. I was a bit confused about this ventilated seats thing as well, and as far as I have been able to dig out, this is only availible in certain markets, and mostly for the Suite trim level it seems. Germany for eksample mention Belüftete Vordersitze for Suite and L&K design selections. https://www.skoda-auto.de/_doc/0bba92d6-fb41-4dbe-b44b-cf4e0edd8848 I also have an vRS on order, and there is no mention about ventilated seats in that for Norway, and it was also said by the dealer here that no Elroqs came with ventilated seats for Norway. (and yes, totally agree, that kind of regional BS is awfully annoying!)

Sold my old man's honda jazz through motorway, got about £2000 more than a local non-franchise offered and about £1500 more than local Honda. Motorway took it down about £500 from the initial temptation price based on a few scratches (they got quite confused about it not having alloys) and it sold for that to another Honda dealer further south. No argument on collection, guy didn't even bother to test drive

For resting voltage you want to take the reading as many hours after parking up the car as you can and allow for perhaps a 0.2v or 0.3v drop with the car's computers (obviously more if you have other stuff running live too). As someone pointed out in another thread this doesn't fully tell you battery condition, a load test would be needed for that, but if done reasonably with a known good battery it'll give a good idea from accumulated experience of previous readings and conditions. If you own an Audi and/or Beemer, particularly if one or both are black (and not just from diesel smoke) then I think it's the law that you have to buy a CTek charger maintainer and they're fine just that I personally think they're overrated and over-valued as well of course as over-priced for normal average car owner use. I know the £15-£20 ones (Aldi(?) and) Lidl (I always confuse the two stores) are good as so many I've seen have used them over the years and the one my neighbour bought has been fine for a good number of years regular use. I use a Ring - other makes, models, brands and labelled, and stores are available, possibly for a few pennies less. - Ring Smartcharge 4 (4-amps, I very much favour going as low as reasonable with charging amps, takes longer but more of a Hieneken effect. -https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Do read the car's 'Owner's Manual' and charger maintainer's instructions for what and how to use a battery charger properly on that car. On the Beemers I've seen you'll be lucky if you could get near the battery (or batteries) but they usually have two lugs you connect to, be sure the clips grab the lugs well for a good connection as some hold better than others . Bosch batteries I was told, when I fitted one to my wife's 2015 Fabia, are Varta. If you kept a battery going for 13 years you may well already know but if you've not already seen/suffered (I'm reasonably sure I've seen your name in other thread(s)) my usual verbiage on charging/chargers/batteries and you want or need any I can cut 'n' paste any here for you, just ask. HTH.

A replacement part is: 3T0810773A The motor part of the mechanism wears over time as it locks and unlocks each time you lock and unlock the car. Either buy cheap of ebay £20 or Horton Skoda sell them online for about £48. To change it you unlock the flap and open. Remove a screw. Remove the fuel cap Pull off the rubber cover surround off. I think there is one more screw to undo. Remove it by sliding it out. I would advise you cut the cables and reconnect them on the old and new one. This a is easier than removing the internal boot trim to get a the awkwardly placed plug and B makes it easier to replace next time if you go for a cheaper unit. Did mine about a month ago.

Those are the original places of the radars So, the first step for the installation, is to remove the rear bumper. To achieve this, one must first remove certain other things. 1st the luggage loading edge 2nd the taillights. It is not mandatory, but I recommend it so that the bumper can be easily removed from its clips and no damage is done. Now we are ready to remove the bumper. Pull the bumper outwards, disconnect the cable (if any) of the reversing sensors. I suggest putting a protective cloth, plastic or something else on the floor, so as not to scratch the paint. Done!!! (Note, in this photo it appears that the luggage side trims of the trunk have also been removed. This is necessary to do so that the wiring to the radar can pass through, I will show it in a next post)

This would be wonderful to see how you would do it. A video tutorial would be great.