Leaderboard

No, not normal. Our Polo GTI (2015) has the DQ200 7 speed dry clutch, and doesn’t do this. Needs checking out IMO. Could be mechatronic issue, or accumulator pressure, although that wouldn’t explain why it only does it in sport. A friends 1.2 Fabia had this, in all driving modes, and it was the accumulator. Presuming yours is the DQ200, a google of DQ200 accumulator pressure should bring up some useful reading. Gaz

Thanks all for the posts. I guess like everything technology can help or hinder. Be nice if they just kept the good stuff on cars - better safety, they don't rust within weeks, 74mpg from a 999cc engine (I have the 100ish bhp Fabia with 6th gear) on a 120mile motorway trip) and just forget the rest..though being able to use my phones satnav on the screen is sooooo much better. At least one good thing came out of the day..I found I actually have a hard copy of the manual. No idea how i failed to notice this for 6 months 🤣🤣

Even with towbar prep you will need a wiring loom to the final sockets it will also not mean just slap the ball on. Unless the car was used and they just took it off. I have had cars with Prep and the rear cross member or valance still needed to be removed and replaced with the towbar. Still have a cross member from a Ford in my Garage after selling the car with the towbar still on. But with prep and a dedicated loom there is no need for extra lamp or beeping when the trailer is attached the car tells you when a bulb is out on the trailer, it disconnects the rear sensors when the trailer is attached and lets the stability controls know you are towing, loads of advantages.

Hello, Decided to join again, had a few VRS back in the early days, then had a few years with a host of other cars. But once again now have another Skoda 😇. It’s a 2014 Superb Black Edition, with 216k miles on her, and to be fair she wears the miles very well. Have a planned list of jobs to do, car has the usual woes, but I’m certain with all the info on her and my spanner’s I will manage to keep her on the road for a few more years yet. 🥰

Get read for fault codes as above. Very common for the EPC or the Engine light is a Misfire. When were the spark plugs changed and at how many miles and how many is it at now?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Does your vehicle go into limp mode when the EPC lights up? Are there any other fault lights? You will need to get the vehicle scanned for any faults (DTCs) recorded. There is no point in trying to guess what might be causing the warning light to appear.

INTERESTEING !!!!! .... I did a little re5on this but was only told that usc or bluetooth would only provide standard deff !! I used to have an older fiio play that was connected via headphone socket in my skoda yeti and it blew EVERYTHING else out of the water !!! But sadly it ONLY connected via 3.5 jack and the bluetooth was to old to connect ( though i thought bluetooth was backwards compatible) Don't get me wrong it found the device on both ends .. but just said it wasn't a compatible device!! Hence the slight upgrade Thanks again John .. I'll keep this post for when the unit arrives in a few days time and I'll let you know the outcome 😉 Steve

Thanks for the information John I already looked into compatibility of the head unit and the unit itself has usb c / bluetooth and both not compatible with the high resolution the mp3 player can provide.. it is in only standard definition... sigh ...... if your interested the unit is the fiio jm21 hi definition DAC Well looks like my next call is with a car audio installer !! Thanks again for taking the time to look I very much appreciate it Steve

Tempting to imagine that this problem was why the previous owner offloaded it. Might indicate potential for a frustrating time if retained.

I went from a 2012 Octavia vRS CR to a 2.0 tsi sport line 4x4. The Karoq on a steady run will do mid to high 40s, the Octavia would do mid to high 50s. I tow a caravan. The Karoq is a much better tow car and the towing mpg is very similar to the Octavia. I used to do about 15k a year when working. Now do about 7k. The diesel just didn't make any sense for the mileage I do now. With the price of unleaded Vs diesel I'm not that much worse off.

So do I, it will be behind a side panel in the boot not outside or underneath

nta16 I believe Gav3rdfabia was well aware that the image appearing on his car's display related to the Lane Assist feature - his problem was getting rid of it. If you owned a Fabia Mk4 with the non-Virtual Cockpit instrument-cluster, you'd know that there's an uncomfortable ménage à trois between the infotainment display-unit, the small central display screen between the speedometer and tachometer dials and the buttons on the steering wheel. As Gav eventually discovered, it's actually a simple matter to use the buttons to move between the various things that can appear on the central display once one knows and can remember how to do it. (Shortly after buying my Mk4, while messing about with the car's settings menus I accidentally triggered a factory reset. Recovering from this can take some effort and - as Gav said - reconnecting to Skoda Connect can be a challenge.)

As per title; 2013 2.0 Diesel, love the torque of the engine, making it quite "nippy" Joined here to review and get lots of technical info for my new car, although I like to add to forums & share info, as a new owner I don't think I could add anything useful for others.

What happens with FEC/SWaP codes for software purchased from Škoda Connect Shop while doing manual non-dealer processed updates?

Is that rev limit while driving in gear? There is a rev-limiter that operates while vehicle is in neutral.

I had same problem. Motor bad and that aluminium stop was too loose. I made mechanical stop between block and flap motor. About 15cm long pipe with some weld spots to get it more square and flat steel top of it. That flat steel attaches whole piece of art at vacuum pump bolt. Very easy to do and very fast to install. I was doing same job as you before i made that pipe. How about drilling thru holes and bolt+nut there? Or thin bolt and nut between original threads?

I'll get one from You if You'll print them in the future!

The last diesel I had was a 2017 Yeti 2.0TDi 150. My current 2024 2.0TSi 190 Suberb is around the same economy on urban trips and better economy on a run and petrol is cheaper. The weights are about the same but the aerodynamics are worlds apart.

Hi. Thanks for the replies. I've got it booked in with skoda shortly so hopefully they can find the answer. Took a couple of videos to maybe explain what I mean a bit more. (Applogies the phone was jammed in the steering wheel) Top video is the normal drive mode selected.. Normal drive Sport mode Hope this makes sense.

There were various factors that came into play when I decided on a petrol rather than diesel in 2018. At that time I was doing 16 to 20 thousand miles a year. I had a 2010 2.0 Tdi Yeti that was perfect for my needs. The Yeti was totally ruined after the 'fix'. Prior to the fix the dpf would regenerate passively so that I never knew it was happening. Post fix It would regenerate often at the end of a 50 mile journey. I would then unload the car and go out again to make sure the regeneration was completed. Another consequence of the fix was that it caused problems with the EGR valve. VW accepted this and I had it replaced free even though the car was well out of warranty. However the replacement valve only had a 2 year warranty. I was coming up to the end of this warranty and I was not prepared to take the risk of paying for a replacement (around a £1000). These two factors were the main reasons for changing to petrol. I had lost faith in diesels. My Yeti was in for a service and MoT at Vindis Bury St Edmunds and they had a pre-reg 1.5Tsi DSG Karoq SeL. On a whim I took test drive, liked it, and bought one. As my annual mileage was reducing (now doing under 5,000 miles a year) petrol was the perfect choice. With my Yeti doing the higher mileage I was getting around 48 mpg. My Karoq, that sits on the drive a lot of the time, beats 30mpg on very short trips to the supermarket and gets around 44/45 mpg on dual carriageway journeys. I'm happy. Lastly, and nothing to do with the petrol/diesel question, when in 2018 I decided to get rid of the Yeti I kept an open mind despite being seriously disappointed with VAG. A big factor in staying with Skoda was the quality of service I was getting from Vindis (no link, just a satisfied customer). tom

Before you head down that rabbit hole, can I suggest you check the external temperature sensor has not failed (a common failure) and possibly the rain/humidity sensor under the mirror has also not borked. MK3 (not the facelift 3.5's) - had a dodgy humidity sensor that failed (the one below the rear view mirror) and causes the fan speeds and temperature settings not to work properly. A quick scan of codes would see confirm if that was the issue. re: waterpump. If the car is coming up to temperature and sits nicely at 90C, then it probably isn't the waterpump. MK3 (not 3.5's) had the dodgy plastic impellers that fail. Usual signs are a overheat, then recovery, then complete failure. If you've had a new waterpump since 2018, it will probably be the new type that don't fail. Don't forget there is also a secondary coolant pump in the cooling system that is used especially if you have stop/start. Other things to check: have you removed the silica bag of doom in the coolant header tank? If this splits, it will get into the heater matrix and stop it working (it will also get into the engine block too, so that will need urgently addressing).

I was converted to being a diesel fan back in 2000 when I ordered a petrol Espace, and the agent delivered a diesel. It was great for 7 years but at the end it couldn't get 40 mpg and any acceleration produced a huge cloud of black smoke. My last diesel was a 2.0HDi Citroen Picasso, which we used for continental trips to Austria every year. This was of the earlier cars with Adblue, and of course I was one of the first into the workshop with the Adblue failure. We loved the car, but if there was a problem with them, we had it, but at least it was all covered by either warranty or recall. In normal use, the car would do ~48mpg, and on holiday runs about 52mpg. Wedecided after 6 years to let it go and bought our current 2.0TSi Karoq. This, like the Picasso, does between 48 and 52 mpg and runs beautifully at the speeds I like to drive. So, as the mileage per gallon is almost identical and diesel locally being 5% more expensive than diesel, I estimate my Karoq is cheaper to fuel than the Picasso. I don't have to but Adblue, worry about filling it or running out on the continent (my filler was under the boot floor, so not convenient if you have a bootfull of luggage), and I don't have to worry about the inconvenience (or £1000 cost) of having the pump fail. As far as performance goes, my only issue is the pitifully low torque the engine provides at low engine speed, especially if the aircon is on.

On my last 5 VAG diesels, I’ve been using this every time I refuel. Never had an issue with running rough. It slightly increase mpg as it increases cetane level by 4. I never overdose and in summer underdone by about 25%. Not cheap of course, far from expensive with the added mpg I normally buy a few at a time when on offer. Millers Oils 6204KB Diesel Power Ecomax Fuel Treatment 500ml John

Excellent review but The part about trim levels is useful but not UK specific

I'd think that in general, it is wise to replace the aux belt so that it does not fail in use, having a engine driven belt breaking up in a confided space can/could cause a lot of collateral damage - I'm just trying to read between you the OP's lines here. So far, unless it has started to look like it was cracking badly, I've just replaced "good enough looking" aux belts on our cars at 50,000miles or 10 years - whichever turned up first.

No issues. I’m not saying stop start is the cause it was the symptom that the battery was not okay as the car won’t use stop start if the battery voltage is too low. I simply must have had a bad battery from new. It happens. I think this is largely bunk. Stop start probably doesn’t provide real world fuel savings that it does in the official fuel economy testing but it won’t produce accelerated bearing wear. There is no evidence of such a thing despite how long the tech has been in place and there are plenty of other failings of modern VAG and other manufacturers

As an afterthought they could call the electric version TEVR and use the strapline "Clever TEVR". I'll get my coat ...

scratch that, I've figured it out. I've used the bosch rubber in the OEM blade, got a refund for the broken one too!

At 7.10 miles/litre in the Touran that works out at about 32mpg! That's petrol territory, and at 6.53 miles/litre in the Karoq is just under 30mpg, so hardly any difference - or have I worked something out incorrectly? Just wondering why the Touran was so thirsty for a diesel, my Superb 2.0 TDI DSG averages 60mpg, quite impressive given the size of the car.

You could always just switch the lights on.

I did the same guess calculations a while ago. I had a Diesel Primera 2litre when working and travelling across the UK, the wife had a petrol 1.4 Nissan Note. The Primera went first (it was 18 years old) when I stopped working as, thanks to Covid it ended up on the drive 99% of the time. Post Covid things didn't ever come back to "normal" before I retired. We used the petrol Note for a year or two thinking we need to replace it as it was 14 years old. Most of our mileage, a lot lower than when working, is short distances around town with occasion runs on dual carriageways and motorways of 40 and 80 miles each way to visit relatives. So I went for a 1.5 Petrol Karoq. Over this year we are averaging 41 MPG with a range of 37-44mpg over the months according to the Skoda App. The other factor was that we are close to Birmingham Costco. At the moment not only is unleaded less than Diesel the E10 is 1.24 a litre.

I get this occasionally usually a quick flick wipe clears it or a squirt from the screen washers. Must admit I'd assumed it was on the outside as it clears with the wipers,,,,,,,,,,,,,

@Awesam Finally, I managed to connect the pump; it is indeed plug and play. The connector on the pump side had the pink tab inside slightly misaligned; I put it back in place. Now everything is in order, the pump works well. I have an appointment with the tuner Fredautosport in a few days for the configuration. So, I have a VWR R600 intake, large volume inlet & outlet turbo, GFB DV+ dump valve, Autotech kit on HPFP, EQT RS3 type brushless LPFP. The next modifications are a Wagner Tuning downpipe and intercooler. I found a downpipe reference; what do you think, Awesam? https://www.equip-auto83.fr/fr/moteur/echappements/downpipe-rm-motors/downpipe-inox-decata-rm-motors-pr511728_9e.htm?tkpub=GGL&tkcmpg=Shopping#desc Cheaper than supersprint 800+ euros Thanks for your help

Mike and Elvis did a 2CV Fourgonette. Very rare four seater version @pinkpanther https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Li5rggTtFEY

It's probably worth running your car on Super Diesel or using a Cetane improver to keep your engine in best fettle.

All the lubrication used to do was make the noise go away for a little while for me. I forgot to update - mine went in for an MOT and failed on the passenger shock absorber. I always suspected the shock absorber and the noise has now gone since it was changed.

So long time and a lot of progress here or there. Went up on the lift to do new ball joints, tie rods and a wheel bearing. Wheel bearing was a siege in 100 different ways. As were the ball joints (Kept getting sent wrong ones) Basically decided "I am not taking this apart again", so knowing the flywheel was grinding worse and worse i began stripping the parts car down. Don't love having it in bits as its yet another shell to go on a pallet. Before that i rolled it down to the wash, and gave it a good cleaning. Even though it is beyond rotten I felt a bit bad tearing into it, anyhow. Stripped suspension off of it and dropped engine as a unit, split all on the pallet and got the flywheel. It was grubby and oily but in better (not great) shape Both cars the clutches were "ok" both have oil leaking from the distributor down into the box, and what was causing the clutch in mine to occasionally slip. Decided to strip the parts cars suspension to clean up for mine, bushes being 30 years old and 90k mile on them, were well past it. Knew i needed anti roll bar bushes for mine, like everything else cant get new rubber ones. However, there is a man in a shed in the US called DRW bushings who does bushes for all the older subarus. So i ended up buying the full kit for mine. Not cheap but shipping and customs from the us isnt either, so i only wanted to do it once. Bushes came quickly for being made to order, and the other side of the pond. Fella was extremely pleasant and helpful to deal with. Bushes all fit perfectly, all numbered so almost impossible to mix up, plus theyre not as hard as powerflex or such. They feel a lot like a slightly firmer oe bush. Got mine in black to keep a nice standard look. Noticed sump was leaking this while so dropped it, cleaned strainer also. Again while im in there. Primed and painted sump, resealed all fine. New clutch kit, probably mentioned before i won a new old stock subaru disc and pressure plate a while back, nice to put it to use. Cleaned the flywheel up myself as couldnt get anyone easily to machine it. Got gearbox in on my own not easy but lifted it up and put it on myself. Made a clutch alignment tool with an extension and lots of tape. In the bushes kit there were small shifter bushes which have transformed the shifter, it was really nice before but now it is extremely nice to use, very tight and direct. Back on its wheels this evening, no exhaust past the cat and needs checking and torqueing all the bolts on the ground but i did get driving it a little. Clutch feels very good but does need adjusting. Suspension and steering feels superb, very fresh. Still have to do rear suspension. Gonna do the same and strip the parts cars to refresh. This way i have serviceable arms etc from mine as spares. So shouldnt have much to worry about from the front for a while. Rear isnt too bad but id like to have all the suspension stripped and painted anyhow. Ill clean up and schutz underneath it too. I do want to gut the cat from the parts car to use on mine, being pre 95 it doesnt need one to pass emissions once its running well. Have that nice backbox too but itd require basically having a catback pipe done up to make any use out of it. Exhaust restricts way down after the resonator for no real reason. Backbox i got is the same size as the pipe between the cat and resonator. Facelift ones like mine are catted, preface is not and that brings power down from about 55 to 50. It is nippy for what it is but a "cheap" 10% bump in power would be nice.

Update. So tried driving around without the parcel shelf and no noise. When I went to refit it into place, I noticed that it wasn’t seated to begin with (!) but now seated correctly, it does not make any noise. It’s too dark (and raining) at the moment to take a picture but will do to show the difference. The irony though is that even with the plastic “clip” missing, it doesn’t make a noise - probably missing from the outset. The idea of printing a 3D part however is intriguing….and I have to admit, I did consider using LX tape or Gaffa tape to do the job too ;) Thanks for all the suggestions.

Northern lapwings I think. Not yer soft southern lapwings

Lovely sunset this evening.

Hello to Superb 1.5 TSi, DSG, Hybrid, Lauren and Klement, Estate. When I took my Octavia in for its annual service, I had booked a loan car but one wasn't available. I was offered instead a demonstrator modrl as above, 3 months old and with 1,200 miles on the clock. I liked this car a lot so asked if I could buy it. Was told I could and got a whopping discount knocked off the on the road price.

wow, thanks for all the contributions, what a great forum!! so a couple of additions: @imart143 - we can't get the app here in NZ and AFAIK, thats the only way to restrict max charge. you can set a "slow charge", which i do, through vehicle settings, but that's your lot in lots of configuring the charging process so i think @Edela is correct, it charges to the max. @Canth - i hadn't thought about driving patterns and how these are used to calculate (guess!) the estimated range. i will now! i thought my conditions ( car charged slowly overnight, ambient temp 18-20, relaxed driving style etc) seemed optimal for an estimated range so still can't explain the 45km the car shows on startup. and @whippersnapper thks, tyres set and checked regulalry at 33psi. but what i haven't done yet is just run it in e-mode and see the actual range achieved in real-life. but dumb of me but i've been trying to nurse it along in hybrd mode as much as possible. most of the other contributors seem to be getting 60km plus..... anyhoo....i will update with some real-world testing and anything that drops out of the diags at 1 year service next week. tune in then!!

I went with the Pro springs. Looks great and the ride is still really nice.

So, The dataset is from a MJ20 Superb 3. Please note, this is only the FPA part. So if someone flashes the gateway, they first need the complete dataset from the gateway and then only flash the FPA part. In the encrypted folder is firmware 0130 DCC, the Arteon DCC dataset is what's needed, and the edited FPA Superb 3 dataset. PLEASE NOTE: FLASHING FIRMWARE DCC WILL DELETE THE DEFAULT DCC SETTINGS. BUT DOES NOT TRIGGER CP. No liability on my part Superb 3 FPA DCC Mode.zip

I just experienced exactly this issue too. Brand new Superb by the way - 2k km on odometer! Anyway I contacted multiple service points around me and one of them gave me a hint - just disconnect battery and let it rest for a minute. You should see the cushions deflate. After that just connect the battery back. When you start the engine after battery was disconnected you will probably get a lot of warnings about assistant services (ACC, DCC...) - just drive the car for a few kilometers and it should be gone. Hope this helps someone :)

Yes, check the infotainment system when the car appears on the screen (in the main menu), swipe your finger toward the trunk area. There you should find a few settings related to the tailgate, usually under something like “Easy Open.” From that menu, you can completely disable the foot sensor function if it’s causing issues.

Any good? Thanks. AG Falco

Yes indeed, a Lola T 492 but with a Porsche flat 6 on carbs and 320 bhp in 560 Kg, so a bit sharp. Built the car in 2008/10, all DIY. Lovely club racer.

@Cedwing In addition to the driver's seat position, the mirror positions are also saved when you 'set' the seat position to one of the three seat switches. Assuming you've saved your electric seat position, press and briefly hold the relevant seat button (1, 2 or 3) and the dipped mirror will return to its preset position. This negates any need to faff around with the mirror control.