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If you like it, why not keep it? I wouldn't listen to anyone who tells you you aren't going to be able to buy diesel, it's what most commercial and large goods vehicles run on and there's no sign of that changing any time soon.

I can confirm that this worked fine for a 2017 Rapid Spaceback with Train MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P7130L. I did have to desolder the EEPROM, because the power LED of my CH341 programmer immediately went out whenever I connected the board through a clamp.

Annotated pic showing some PCV parts; orange rectangle contains cyclonic oil separator, pink rectangle is PCV valve. I think what you're seeing with cap not present is just a baffle to stop oil being flung continually at underside of cap when engine is running.

I used one during Covid lockdown to keep the battery topped up, just plugged into the permanently live 12V socket in the centre console.

There are small solar panel battery maintainers available for around £30, maybe useful if you leave it so long.

A proper diagnosis is going to be required not & not just disabling a major function of how the engine is supposed to operate. Someone who has more than just a Code reader. This might be a 1.5 TSI ACT that actually needs the Cam Belt change sooner than Skoda / VW now say. It certainly needs inspected. The issue could be the anything even cam shaft wear..

Vagueness is far more likely to be bush and joint wear than anything electrical. I had both lower arms replaced a few months ago for exactly the sort of feelings you describe at more or less the same mileage. Nothing clonked or wobbled, it just felt...not as sharp as it had been. The Superb is very much towards the heavy end of the MQB range, so the parts between it and the road will take more of a battering.

What I have is in my profile age is in my first post 57k miles.

Hi Evaluation 13 , What you said re Skoda and quality control I believe that statement could be said of other German premium brand's My overall experience with Skoda customer service compares favourably with Mercedes apart from one area , the Mercedes service manager has forgotten more than the Skoda service manager has ever known.

It's under warranty.

Bushes maybe causing slight wander ?

Dacia, Renault sub division, seem to be going great guns, whether the UK will get all the models is another thing. I hope people don't get sucked in to the hybrid thing. Our Clio hybrid was OK for most of the 2 year PCP but when they go wrong they can go wrong big time. I like the Hipster thing and I think there is going to be a Dacia version of the Twingo to. Even the revised Spring has had so much upgrades like roll bar, power. Seats were dreadful, bad enough to steer me away from getting one so went for base model R5. Estate could grab some more market for Dacia. Had a Daicia Logan estate about a decade OK, not too bad. It was £10k and then I got £1k back when I trader it back in. The 0.9 l engine was a bit over worked, blew the gearbox up, did get 115 out of it though, great value car. Would expect the Dacia estate to be more like 25K but deposit might be 40% as new Renault CEO is a different kind of guy to the previous one plus even though interest rates are lower the Dacia loan rates were not that great.

Yes mate. It's called OBD11, but it's a bit pricey

Your vehicle doesn't offer the function you'd like. The "2" means you have two notifications, like on a phone: swipe down and drag the status bar.

The 12 volt sockets are permanently live on the Mk3.

Sorry to hear about your problems. Unfortunately issues such as this seem to come up time and again on this forum with Approved Used Skoda. The car has a built in eSIM, so should download updates OTA via that. There's no cost to you, and you don't need a data plan with Cubic in order to do it. Nor, do you need to connect to your home WiFi. The fact your car has a red X suggests there's an issue with the eSIM module. So the dealer need to fix that... it's probably another software update. If your software really is on version 1891, then it's miles out of date. I believe the latest version of software is 1989. It really is worth getting the software update issue sorted out while you're in warranty, and have picked up the vehicle very recently. Bear in mind there are a lot of other modules in the car which may require updates. The only software version you can see in the car is the infotainment. If you search the forum you will see this subject come up many times, and most of us with early cars that persevered had the following updates: telematics, OCU, infotainment, virtual cockpit. I'm sure there's some others I've missed. I'm in the situation with my car which is currently on infotainment version 1941 where it doesn't update the infotainment automatically. Other app updates do get pushed OTA. As per another forum thread, a menber got Skoda to update the OCU to version 0144. Once this was done the car started getting the bigger infotainment updates OTA. I've now raised a question with Skoda and they agree my car should be updating the infotainment automatically and want to install some updates on it (they've not divulged exactly what). My only question to the dealer is who will pay as typically out of warranty they want to charge, so that's a discussion that needs to happen with the dealer and Skoda. Don't give up. The early vehicles are fine, if you can get over the hurdle of getting the software set-up correctly. It may also be raising the issues with the Skoda Executive Office. Their e-mail address is: [email protected]

Last 10k on Tesco momentum

I can't help you any further.

Fit cap in this orientation: Turn 90 degrees clockwise to lock down.

Apple car play works via smart link does it not? 🤔

Pics now visible. Hopefully an owner with same engine code may be kind enough to provide a comparison photo. I can get a shot of the earlier generation equivalent in an AZQ-code HTP engine once my partner returns from wherever she's just gone to.

Hi, I've changed my Octavia estate for a Scala, and other than boot space (obviously) I find it almost as roomy in the cabin. I looked at a Kamiq, but the boot area is slightly smaller, which wouldn't have suited my dog. It's a lovely car to drive and, so far, has been fault free.

Nope , never have had , made me question if I stick with the octavia for my next car. Don't know if it makes a difference but car has been used for private hire use for the last 100k

Relatively easy mate. Probably worth buying some Sunroof Drain Cleaning Tool https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sunroof-Cleaning-Flexible-Cleaner-Dredging/dp/B0D386J5V7/ref=asc_df_B0D386J5V7?mcid=4ed78293fc46368c8a7952353cfc4213&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=730369837808&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16093744783223272607&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045093&hvtargid=pla-2398180781187&hvocijid=16093744783223272607-B0D386J5V7-&hvexpln=0&gad_source=1&th=1 If that doesn't work try pulling the headlining away around the sunroof and looking to make sure the rubber grommets/connectors are actually connected. I cleaned my drain lines from the sunroof (as you don't need to remove the headliner for that) only to realise that I had knocked the grommet away from the drain hole from the sunroof which then led to water running down into the footwell (because there is a drain hole near front of the drivers door)

A quick search on Google suggests that this is a known issue, essentially due to the inherent imbalance of running a 4 cylinder engine on only 2 cylinders. Worn engine and/or transmission mounts are one probable cause. Another probable cause is that when running in 2 cylinder mode the exhaust frequency changes causing the exhaust system to vibrate against heat shields. Thus exhaust hangers, heat shields and connections should be checked for integrity. On some VAG cars a loose wastegate rod can cause rattling which can feel like vibration and in cars with direct injection (like the VW 1.5 TSI) carbon buildup on the intake valves can cause rough operation when in 2 cylinder mode. Bearing in mind the high mileage on the subject car in this post, carbon buildup seems a quite likely cause of the problem. The ACT system relies on oil pressure to activate the solenoids that disable the cylinders. If oil pressure is low, or if the oil control valve is sticking, the cylinders may not deactivate/reactivate smoothly. Depending on the car model driving in sport mode disables the ACT but obviously this is a workaround rather than a solution. Given the diverse nature of the possible causes it is not at all surprising that 'qualified' mechanics have thus far been unable to determine the exact cause. Good luck Brian15 - I think you'll need it !!

Timing belt done around 100k Been in 2 VAG garages neither of which have a clue I recently paid £666 for diagnostics etc code came up for purge valve had it changed , no difference It's how much I keep throwing at it to find the problem

^^^This, something has clearly changed (gone wrong) with this engine, as the issue is relatively recent. The 'vibration' is being highlighted when the engine switches to 2-cylinder mode - NOT caused by it.

Nextbase, Viofo or Garmin all come recommended.

I've pm'd you mate, thanks 🙂

Hi, welcome. If you have not already seen it, Škoda Octavia section of site, though there are many other sections. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/

it's being done on the 2nd Feb at the dealers

Hello @scotthugh3s , As 2-d DTC stated, your Airbag CU is hardware faulty, caused by the electrical drop failure (probably). From top of my head I remember I saw this kind of error on another forum. Maybe @East_Yorkshire_Retrofits , jump here and based on their expertise will provide next step to proceed with investigation and resolution. Cheers

What did the old plugs look like - especially the non-ACT cylinders? If nothing unusual was noted with plug electrode colour, I'd suggest a compression test.

I have cancelled the appointment for tomorrow as found out I would be charged if its out side of the extended warranty (£165) which just after Christmas is a little much. Had a good chat with them over the phone whilst cancelling and seems I will see if i can check the state of the shocks before going further with them, as they wouldn't have a car to compare against to get a true understanding of what is happening. When I mentioned about the Bilsteins then this would of course means everything is then outside of their extended warranty, as they don't have anything to compare against nor have heard of this before I think I might need to confirm the issue a little better before hand, shame really as not had the car that long which they were fully understanding with and wouldn't charge me until it was deemed that the extended warranty didn't cover or there wasn't an issue.

Diagnostics brought up no misfires Changed spark plugs 2 weeks ago and coil pack a coupke of months ago No difference at all I change oil and filters regularly

Cars done 119k miles , only for last 10k has the vibration been an issue , nothing at all before that. It's purely when act kicks in it starts , soon as eco pops up on the dash i get the vibration and it disappears as soon as eco disappears

The difference between ''suspected'' and ''verified'' is huge,don't change parts without approved reason,will cost you a fortune and some parts it's better to leave them ''as is''. First check the connections,it happened to em in the past and don't get rushed to change parts, in a case with a problem in brake pedal a mechanic suggested to me to buy a new vacuum drum (because he said the original was faulty) and of course a used one because new there isn't any. I search the whole case by myself,the culprit was a gauge that i had installed in the driver's column supposed to help me in Mpg improving. There was a leak on it,i remove it together with it's connection hose and problem solved,i saved money and effort (the factory vacuum drum still working as it should be).

Measure your existing ones...???

Has it always vibrated severely when it switches to 2-cylinder mode - or this more recent? I can't see ACT mode alone causing severe vibration, as it is only supposed to operate when the engine is lightly-loaded. Have you had it scanned for misfires in either of the two non-ACT cylinders?

By comparison yes; and that 25k miles was in about 18 months.

Not realy me, in 45 years literally, not one dealer shop (under warranty) and not one smaller shop, nobody EVER even mentioned brake fluid change ! I was always carefull to do all scheduled services,mostly even ahead of time. Some of those shop owners were my friends and realy, very good mechanics ......so imagine now my surprise.

Apologies @Stonekeeper , I got my month wrong! It was first registered in March 2025. Thanks @Evolution13 . I asked the dealer and they confirmed it's on Flexible hence their view it's not due yet. I can't convince them to do the service, already largely agreed pending test drive (as I've not seen in the flesh yet) and collection on Friday. The car is 260 miles away from me so all is done remotely so far.

I agree no one has offered any evidence either way. However I still prefer to play safe and do the coding. No-one has ever said doing the coding is bad in any way.

If the battery is of the same type, eg., EFB or AGM as the old one and the same capacity and cold cranking amps, then there is no need to recode it.

My business grey hatch

11 years is really good going for a battery and was clearly at the end of its life. Mine failed at about 7 when it just started the car one morning at -2°C. I went straight away for a replacement new one from a nearby ATS. It seemed expensive but then it was a big battery for a diesel auto with stop-start. It's been first class. 🤞🏻

If you introduce a little Cetane into the fuel, then you will get better fuel consumption. Proved that theory over 50,000 diesel miles on my previous Scout. Super Diesel tends to improve the burn rate; most low sulphur diesel fuels don't have any cetane in them. The key (as previously discussed) is long, fast run and getting the car nice and hot.

I too have randomly had the error:drive system message. I've had the car from new (22 plate 2ltr 150 sel manual estate), and the problem didn't start until after a year of ownership last June. It's been back to the dealer 6 times in the past 10 months, and each time they say they can't find anything wrong and nothing showing in fault log. There's clearly a problem somewhere. The last time it happened I was towing a caravan, and the last 10 miles of the car every few seconds trying to go into 'Limp mode' was a bit unnerving and very frustrating. Pulling out at junctions was a bit hair raising too. Now the satnav resets itself and clears destination/favourites history everytime the car is switched off. The previous octavia I had was a lovely car, this one has had various (mainly infotainment problems) almost from new. I wished I'd never bought it.

https://www.catcar.info/en/

Don't know it this helps after such a while, but have managed to add ACC to my car that already was factory fitted with FA. ACC works for speeds starting from 30 kmh, under that it gives a warning to brake (I suspect if I do nothing, FA kicks in, but I'm not eager to try ) For full ACC (stop car) a different ABS pump is needed and this becomes much more expensive and labor intensive. Parts needed: ACC compatible stalk + new cover under the steering column and some online coding / SWAP codes. I already had the proper steering wheel module. All is working, set distance, ACC is on and no errors. So, for factory fitted Front Assist card, this retrofit is relatively easy to do with someone that knows the entire procedure.