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Greetings from Estonia. Bought this 2017 280HP L&K with 184K km and almost every option. I have no idea what this color is. According to Gemini it's Amethyst Purple Metallic, however I can't find any pictures from that year that would look similar to this. I really like it though and plan to polish it out some day.

Thanks for all your replies. I've found the answer, a little embarrassing, but I've added it here in case it helps anyone else in future. I took the vehicle to a specialist as suggested. They discovered that the oil filler cap was not properly secured, which was causing a crank-case air leak. This caused an extra rich mixture and clogged up the dpf. They re-cycled the dpf, which cleared it up - and the problem was solved. The smokey smell was either a bit of mist escaping the crank-case or a bit of oil splash on the exhaust. This cost me an investigation fee of £108. I guess I incorrectly re-fitted the cap at the last oil-change, about a thousand miles ago. You live and learn. Joe

The Trent was in full flow! PXL_20260211_151343869~3.mp4

Couple from a very soggy Attenborough Nature reserve earlier. We were lucky enough to spot what we think is a Kestrel?

Thought I had posted here but guess not, so here is my Candy White 220ps on factory Trinity 19’s, Se L Executive with the (take off the fun stuff) Business pack

Hello, I was on here over 10 years ago as Mart Vrs but haven’t been able to reactivate that profile. My last Skoda was a 2009 Superb se 140tdi (my ‘twindoor’ wiring repair guide is still live I think). Anyway new car is a Cat N retirement project, it’s a 68 plate Octavia vRS 245 hatch in white with 57k miles. The damage is light but expensive, the only body damage is to the bumper, bonnet and one headlight, however all the real work is a little deeper so I’m replacing full rad pack and carrier, thermostat (cracked) and water pump. Now it’s all stripped down with the inlet manifold off I’m doing some carbon buildup cleaning before re-assembling the front end. Pics to follow and glad to be back.

Finally got a chance to get the car clean and take some photos. 2016 Moon White SE L Executive. 2.0TDi 190PS DSG - Now just tipped 125,000 miles.

I still think that’s incorrect. In a rallying or racing scenario, with an experienced driver, what you’re saying may be true - but for the average Joe, I think understeer is an easier correction. After all, there’s a reason insurance on the M140i is so high. If you’re on a roundabout and begin to understeer, you can ease off the accelerator, tap the brake to bring the weight forward, or ease off the steering. If it’s oversteering, you have far less time to react. The vRS in particular, with its front diff, has a tendency to snap oversteer - or, at least mine does. It requires a pretty quick and sharp reaction. Equally, having lost the rear end on a Porsche GT4, I really don’t think oversteer is easy to correct - that little mistake sent me into the gravel. +1 for this. I get my car done every six months at a minimum, especially on these roads. My Octavia has an issue with the NSF caster - we’ve taken the car apart and can’t find an issue with any component… clearly just one of those things. My Pilot Sport 5s have got around 12,000 miles on them and still have a little life in the fronts - quite impressive for a UHP summer tyre paired with my right foot. FWIW, it doesn’t have to be a Hunter machine - the guy I used to use in Southampton used some machine I’d never heard of, but did a damn good job. As above though, the operator matters far more than the machine itself.

You should keep also in mind that a "low pressure detected" signal comes upon every 10.000 kms, without reason, just to put on the right way drivers like me, who rarely check tyre pressures...i just check how car behaves, and thats it...it is not correct, for sure,but.....anyway, since system has this function, it is very good, since 10.000 kms for me is 3 months time....when it happened for the first time, i was scared, stopped aside, saw nothing wrong, and continued carefully, although nothing had changed regarding car behaviour....the next day i checked pressures, finding very low loss in every tyre, which is normal for 4 months period...i thought it was some kind of electronic malfunction...but checked manual, where it is a clear mention of the "10.000 km" rule....so now, i know...and i check

I've made 3 Haldex oil replacement myself on my ex Superb Mk3 Estate. Only used OEM oil from my local dealer. Sorry, I don't know other oils.

And my 18 reg SE L sailed through, with no advisories. Next week it’s the turn of Mrs B’s Nissan, and then the 3-wheeler in early March. Here’s hoping for similar results for these…

Clean MOT with a grand total of 3103 miles since last test 😬

Yes I managed to install today. Everything went OK. Thank you.

You need CANBUS Friendly LED bulbs - did this on my FL Scout. Made a huge difference. https://www.ledperf.co.uk/h8-led-bulbs-osram-night-breaker-smart-street-legal-64212dwnbsm2hb-p-136736.html Expensive, but worth it!

If I remember next time I use the car. I'll see if I remember to do it.

Hi all, I know this is a very old thread (last reply I saw was 2019) and I couldn’t find anyone posting a confirmed fix, so I’m adding this in case it helps someone in the future. I had this problem myself this year on my 2006 Fabia Mk1. I was getting water under the carpet and I also found water inside the A-pillar itself, not directly from the door. In my case it was the passenger side, but on UK cars this will likely be the driver’s side. After checking all the usual things like door seals, speaker membrane, grommets, etc., the real source turned out to be the door check strap (door stop). The metal arm of the door check goes into the A-pillar and is held with two Torx bolts. Around its base there is a rubber seal/gasket where it sits against the pillar. On mine that rubber was not sealing properly. I should also mention that Breezy_Pete had actually pointed to this area in an older post, but at the time I couldn’t believe water could come through there because it has a rubber seal. Turns out he was right. I saw it with my own eyes: water was running down the pillar, collecting around that opening and forming a small “pool”, and then the water in that little pool suddenly disappeared as it got pulled inside through that point. During heavy or continuous rain (I could never reproduce it with a hose), water running down from the roof and windscreen area flows down the A-pillar and directly over the door check area. Once enough builds up around that opening, it enters the A-pillar, which then fills up and eventually overflows into the cabin and under the carpet. That’s why the door interior was dry, the seals looked fine, and the leak only showed up in heavy rain, with water appearing inside the pillar. I removed the door check strap, applied sealant/silicone all around the base where it contacts the pillar, then refitted and tightened it properly. Since doing this, after a full day of rain, the pillar is completely dry and no more water under the carpet. It’s a very hidden leak point and easy to miss because it’s not a typical seal area. Hope this helps someone finally solve this issue.

Something else is happening to cause this. I'd suspect a slight water or oil leak as the first culprits allowing contamination of the coil packs. If he lives in a rural location then I'd also add in a suspicion of animal damage. Given it's happened more than once and happened twice inside warranty then Clearly it's not fixed. So he has a claim. I'd ask the garage to do some proper diagnostics and check running voltages and currents on the coil packs on a diagnostic device. Easy enough to do if you know how and there will be specs on all the forgoing. The bigger issue will be finding a technician who knows how to do it. Independents are often better than main dealers at this. So it might be worth spending a few quid to get to the bottom of the issue quickly. Have a look at this: Repeated ignition coil failure. What may cause this?

In my two previous cars, Octavia VRS saloon and Octavia VRS estate, I had a really strange event where the Car Play always lost connection as I approached the M6 Toll from the north. After about a mile into the M6 Toll, connection was automatically re-established. With the first car, I just put in down to a purely connection issue, but on subsequent trips in always lost connection at that spot. When I got the estate and the same thing happened, I thought that something weird was happening at that location. Now with my current Kodiaq I haven't been down that way as yet, but cant wait to see if the same thing happens again.

So we're getting close! My dealer has been in touch and explained that our car is now in the UK at the port. It should be with them in the next couple of weeks so collection in early March is looking good - we've agreed Friday, 6 March as the provisional date for pickup. The dealer has agreed to give me a message when the car arrives because I requested that they let me inspect it before they complete their PDI. I do this with all of our new cars because the dealer will hopefully include anything we have spotted for rectification prior to the big day. Hope being the operative word! Is there anything else that you good people think I should be doing, checking or fretting about? Thank you in advance!

Da da...sa tog linka...1 stranicu unazad. Ja sam bio na 304 ili 306 pa su mi stavljali u servisu 330. Tada je taj bio zadnji. Ali svakako moras ici na 308 pa onda dalje. E sada dali moze direkt na 332 ne znam. Mozda da probas sa 330 pa onda 332. Ima i stranicu dvije link i za 330. Za svaki slucaj. Mozda i ne treba. LP !

Just wanted to say hi... hi! Not a Skoda owner yet but am looking to buy one this year, I'm primarily looking for Superb 3.5 v6 or Octavia vRS. So will be looking for research on models, engine issues and general issues thst I should be aware of and then trawling for a car to buy. Thanks I'm sure you'll see me pipe into relevant posts in future.

Just reset the TPMS through the settings menu after fitting the spare wheel, and with the very similar overall diameter you have it will be fine!

Not sure if this is relevant to your particular problem but I found this note in the on-line manual… “Automatic deactivation The parking brake is automatically switched off when you drive off. If you want to prevent it from switching off automatically, e.g. when starting uphill, hold the button down.”

Clearly EV drivers are no different to other drivers... and just jump in and go without even the most basic checks. My tyres are checked monthly for wear and even then I got caught out by excessive wear on the inner edge of NSF tyre. Spotted it before it failed and found the tyre had been damaged in a pot hole, but still missed by monthly check. How many drivers go months without checking stuff?

Hi Bap33, The car is 2017 and I'm second owner. I have car for 6 years now and I was never crossing a river or reversing to drop off the boat to water. I have no knowledge what was happening with car before I got it. But I'm pretty sure if some of above happened in 1st 3 years corrosion would develop quicker. When I opened faulty module half of it was white/crystals corrosion suggesting salt. Maybe over time red gasket used to seal module losing it's watertightnes. Unfortunately I don't have any photos as we were trying to get it cleaned and repaired. Only visible damage what has been done on pcb was corroded 2 pins of tja1042t high-speed CAN transceiver which disappeared after cleaning.

I received an e-mail last night from Skoda Customer Services stating they've checked my vehicle and the update has now successfully applied. It hasn't prompted to install again so far today. That being said, my icons look no different - so I'm not convinced that it has applied, or that they've just stopped it from trying to apply to my vehicle. @TheWanderer Any chance you can post a picture of how your infotainment icons look so I can compare against mine?

I appreciate that decent posts take up time so thank you everyone. I haven’t found the answer I wanted but picking through the info provided has given me some ideas about how to progress. For the moment I will charge the battery each week but that is not going to be the solution. I prefer emailing but many businesses don ‘t want to communicate like that. Instead, I’ve decided to drive to the service provider to ask them what they think would work best. One of the first steps will be visiting a local garage that serviced my Peugeot for many years. They have a youngish tech with an electric car who the managers sent on courses about electronics and electric cars. At least I can now converse on the topic sensibly. They are very relaxed and helpful which is what we all need with car issues. The weather situation is looking grim and it may take some time to settle on the best replacement battery and way to go with this. I will check back in and let you know what the result is but that will likely be after quite a few weeks. Thanks again.

If most of your trips are motorway, I would suggest you go for the TDI; if I'm not mistaking the vRS TDI is also AWD... However, since you mentioned it's on a 19 plate - wouldn't that make it an Octavia 3 facelift? AFAIK Octavia 4 started with '20. The mileage on the 1.4 TSI iV is quite high for a PHEV, you should pay special attention to the service history - those are prone to quite a few gearbox-related issues. The DQ400e is not the smartest/most reliable thing VAG has built. indeed, if you tend to drive it like you stole it (alternating a lot between "pedal-to-the-metal" and "hard-braking") - yes, the gearbox will be jerky, noisy and sometimes seem to hesitate more than you would like... I found the flappy paddles on the VAG phev are only useful in two scenarios: you drive in EV and you want to force/increase regenerative braking, OR when you're in hybrid sport mode and want/need to have control over the gear change while driving spirited; when you really want to know what gear it’s in, simply put the DSG in S instead of D; to see the engine revs you have a few dashboard view options - at least one with a rev-meter; true, you get a lot of wheel spin with this PHEV configuration (on all VAG models that use it), since they poorly manage the electric motor torque when starting from a standstill, even on dry surfaces. The key is NOT to floor it when the wheel is completely stationary; first let the car move a bit and then you can "launch" it - you'll find this changes the car response dramatically. Also, having a grippy tire helps a lot! Mine was delivered with LRR tires and those were loosing grip quite often; I replaced them as soon as I could.

Not doing too bad if that’s all that came up on the MOT. Suppose you have other non MOT challenges to be dealt with. Still a keeper this one.

@Evolution13 a font of knowledge on these lumps

Are you carrying unnecessary weight in the car, have a roof box or bike rack still on it. That would only just about fully warm the engine for the last mile or two perhaps, look at your engine oil temperature not the coolant gauge you want the oil at 90+C for as long as possible on the journey. 1.,500 to 2,000 rpm isn't best for the engine all the time, perhaps it need a good blow out run (after the engine has been fully warmed at 90+c oil temp), an Italian tune-up. You can clog the engine up but taking it too easy all the time. Yes a bit. Try a couple of tankfulls of E5 with extra cleaning additive package. They should have been changed a couple of times at least by now, possibly more depending on milage on the car. You also want your engine air filter and air filter box to be not too dirty, that should have been changed at least once by now, if not more depending on use of car and environment. As I put before you want the whole car to be in a reasonable condition for it to run well and give good performance (fuel economy). On a standard car at least that would be a waste of time and money and might even give worse performance than factory fitting. With your year at least the DSG model 90 TSI is heavier not lighter than the manual gearbox 90 TSI and depending on how it is driven a manual gearbox might get better fuel economy than a DSG. Take little notice of the gear selection recommendation on the dash of your car instead drive to circumstances and anticipate the road ahead with what gear you use and you will get better fuel economy. Are you a fairly recent driver?

Thoughts are that Amazon will pay very little attention to whether they’re right or not while dodging as much Corporation Tax as possible. But the pads look correct for the front judging by Autodoc 👍🏼

I have a VRS phev, which I assume is what you’re looking at (I’m not au fait with all the acronyms!). For me it shouldn’t really be called a VRS as it doesn’t drive as I would expect a proper VRS to drive. Perhaps it’s the way all hybrid vehicles drive but I find the relationship between the electric and petrol engines really disjointed (when driving in hybrid mode obviously). Sometimes it’s like even the car itself doesn’t know when to change gear / have the petrol and electric engines kicking in, so it feels clunky and almost like old school turbo lag. As for using the flappy paddles to properly “drive” the car then forget it, I’ve got absolutely no idea what gear it’s in / what revs it’s at. Also you can forget about accelerating even remotely hard when the road is slightly damp as it just wheelspins, no matter how gentle you try to be with the throttle. So I guess the question is do you want a proper VRS or are you happy to have a car that has the badge and looks but doesn’t really drive like a VRS should. Are you interested in the hybrid for the electric aspect? As the range on electric only is crap tbh. I’ve not even mentioned the handling of the phev either, which again isn’t what I would expect from a “performance” model. As you can tell I’m not a fan of the phev and would never in a million years spend my own money on one (I had no choice as mines a company car). But that’s just my opinion and others may disagree.

It’s a fairly widespread issue, and I’m increasingly convinced most of the false positives are due to some delay in the system. Not so much from sensors or the message bus, but from a controller/s or some post-processing and decision logic. The sensors clearly have awareness of trajectory relevance and steering angle, and the system might be performing additional object classification before acting. In many cases, emergency braking activates moments after a potential event has already occurred - when encountering a curb, a vehicle in the blind spot, or while reversing. The system also appears to behave more aggressively when a passenger does not have their seatbelt. I correlate this to the noticeable delay in both front and rear cameras. If cameras are used in any of these decisions, that could be part of the culprit. As others have observed, lightly pressing the brake in tight spaces helps, but this is obviously not a practical workaround when the system triggers unexpectedly on straight roads, roundabouts... That's quite a speculation, but in any case, I seriously doubt this will ever get fixed ad-hoc.

+1 for dry them before parking up

Also try to dry the rear brakes before you finish the journey. Thanks. AG Falco

Now all set up with a spare. I got this wheel: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364188522719 This Jack: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08FTH8N1T This breaker bar and socket: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403816977765 and this mounting screw: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0FP91RLPK I know its a budget tyre but its a cost effective way of having a full size spare. If I were to get a flat on th front I would put swap an alloy from the back to front and then put the spare on the rear. It just its in wheel well without needing to trim any plastic away. And the breaker bar tucks in under the plastic trim before the wheel goes in. Im thinking it may rattle a bit in that position so will put some foam or sound deadening between it and the metal. Floor is flat over the top of the wheel too. Annoyinly the jack is about 10mm too long to fit inside the wheel for the floor to sit flat, but it does fit in the side cubby along with my fire extinguisher, and then the first aid and emergency kit fit in the wheel. Happy with that. The floor does feel a bit soft over the centre of the wheel, and I assume the OEM foam insert goes some way to supporting the floor. May make up a circle of Plywood to fit in the wheel to help support the floor. Also does anyone want the standard foam nonspare wheel insert before I take it to the dump? Is it worth trying to sell?

Throttle position sensors do fail; but firstly - I would get yourself some decent kit for your car. Please go invest in a VAG ODBEleven dongle. Car may throw codes that aren't picked up by a standard reader. My pick of these kinds of fault would be: Throttle Position Sensor and valve (check that it is actually closing - it is possible that it is filled up with crud) as well as a stuck open EGR valve (again, because it is filled up with crud). My first port of call would also be - check your oil level (make sure that is good) and get some Super Diesel (pref Shell V-Power) into the car and take it on an Italian tune up. VAG engines do not like to be tickled....they need good long fast runs to keep them working well - keep in 5th gear if manual and manual mode in 5th gear on a DSG). Throttle position valve - this will probably need cleaning by hand (alcohol wipe), the sensor may also need cleaning (use an alcohol wipe, but the EGR valve should respond well to some super diesel.

Springs are in at the garage doing the work Had a Kamiq today as car was in the garage, even that had better suspension than my Superb

Important is also to get the Haldex filter cleaned. It really gets dirty and therefore looses the efficience. I have had it done in every 100 000 km.

I used these PFF85-431BLK worked well, did lower a little bit more, not got any pictures of my old old Octavia. Air pump as above drill out the rivets and replace with nuts and bolts, from memory think i used M5 x 50, worked for a while, junked it in the end, live with the noise, it's only on start up, or junk it.

Today replaced haldex control module and all errors gone. Hopefully forever

Rule 1 with Octavia's - get a wheel alignment done - especially with any new tyres. Try and find a reputable person who knows how to drive a Hunter 4 wheel alignment and get the tracking sorted first - especially if you are on new tyres. Octavia's/Golfs - easy throw their steering out.

I have the 2.0 TSI. Never left thinking that I could do with a few more BHP. However if it's mpg you are chasing don't buy one. Local trips about 35mpg. Long steady motorway, A roads etc I get 45+mpg. As I only do about 7k miles per year I'm not too bothered about mpg. Of the 7k miles probably about 2.5k is towing a caravan when I get 30 - 32 mpg which is pretty good.

Did you check the gap? In any case, dying plugs may kill the coil pack when it finally gives up. £60 is pretty cheap preventative maintenance. 45K miles is enough.

That's a personal choice about the Kamiq having a lack of space. Yes the boot area isn't/wasn't no where near as spacious as my Toledo or it's Rapid equivalent hatchback. The rear seats can accommodate (for me 3 sizeable teenagers) on shorter journeys ok, plenty of room for two adults though in there. Only the two of us (retired) and it's easily accommodated our weekly shopping, tip runs, even picking up flat pack wardrobes from IKEA, rear seats down. Mines a 1lr SE-L love it does everything I need, even fits in the garage if I so wish.

As mentioned, Service history is the fist thing to check. If there is no documented service history then walk away. (Modern, dealer serviced Skoda's have an electronic service record.) At 40,000 miles the must do service items will be oil and filter changes (hopefully 3), air filter changes (hopefully 2) and spark plugs (1 change will be fine) If this all checks out then the test drive should tell you everything else. Look out for any jerky gear changes or hesitations during acceleration and any funny noises. Get a look at the brake pads if you can. Look at the tyres, are the a 2nd or 3rd tier brand?, That can tell you a lot. Price seems very high for a 40,000 mile car. Autotrader suggests you should be able to buy newer with half the miles for £16k

Dealer would be able to do a. Full diagnostic on the car. However given the age, a decent alternative would be a specialist VAG independent with a good reputation. They’ll have all the right stuff and be cheaper on the hourly rate. As to whether you repair or return - I’d say it depends if you like the car. Sounds like the seller is willing to entertain the idea of helping out with costs; the key word there is “reasonable” as that is subjective. The two main issues with electrical gremlins have always been and will always be: Battery on its way out. ABS sensor has gone duff. So first thing to do would be to check not only the charge of the battery but also the health of the battery. Traditionally it’s 4 years old, but going on anecdotal info on here, it could be anywhere between 5 and 15 years old - so age is always trumped by getting a decent multimeter on there to check it.

U'll have no issues with 19s as they're available as an option or standard fit in a few different markets. As for the tyres - many, including myself, have changed it from 235/40R19 to 245/40R19 as its a lot more cheaper, more supply, closer to the real GPS speed, and taller sidewalls for more comfort. The downside is slightly increased fuel consumption due to the bigger tyre.

While the Lane Assist function may certainly be of use in certain settings (motorways perhaps?), for town and country driving, I've quickly come to harbour reservations. Since Covid has resulted in an explosion of cyclists upon country lanes, I've grown to appreciate that my recently delivered Kamiq appears to possess a certain disdain towards them. Upon attempting to provide the many recreational wannabe 'Sir Bradleys' with a wide berth, thus, resulting in nearing of/crossing the white lines in centre, the steering wheel attempts to pull the vehicle directly into their path as I pass. Granted, as many recreational cyclists possess 'all the gear but no idea', proceeding to cycle 4-5ft from the kerb/grass verge, while their distinct lack of road sense does annoy me, I wouldn't wish to see them come to harm during incredibly difficult times. Having wrestled with the Lane Assist function on numerous occasions since taking delivery of my Kamiq, as my street turns on to a country lane with a 40mph speed limit, I've begun to disable the function via the touchscreen. However, it is a shame that the infotainment system automatically re-activates the function upon re-starting of the engine. Skoda really ought to issue an update that allows the driver far greater autonomy. Intelligent they may be, 21st Century vehicles still cannot predict where they're going to be driven after turning the key or pressing the start/stop button.