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I have been servicing this car since my better half has owned it at 110.00km. From turbo/wastegate refurb to interieur rewiring to ...i don't even know anymore If you are indeed losing coolant at steady pace, this could stem from a number of issues: -Leaking waterpump/thermostat(housing) (almost always) -Leaking inlet manifold (highly likely) -Cracked block (not a know issue) There is ofcourse a myriad of hoses that also microcrack under operating temperatures. Best way to test this is to pressurise the cooling system and let it sit for at least an hour. If it drops, you have an active leak.

Howdy @Breezy_Pete I just stumbled on this topic. The CBZA engine is a very basic and easy to understand and maintain however, as you have noticed, there are many small things that, if not payed attention to, will become an issue over time. I stripped everything down around the block to fix all air and oil leaks, gaskets and everything else that suffers after 250.000 mls/40x.xxxkm's. See my struggles linked below: CBZA refurb If you have any specific question, please reach out. I am pretty sure i have seen it all before. Link to every known POF of the CBZA: CBZA Points of Failure (Activate subtitles)

Thanks for all the additional thoughts and information. I will run through Johngerard's checks tomorrow. After my pointless trip to Halfords (two or three miles return) I turned the engine off and it restarted without a problem. But it was hot (from idling for about 90 minutes) so it will be interesting tomorrow morning. I have two booster packs charging here now, pessimist that I am. And thank you for drawing my attention to Tayna, several options there. And finally benefiting from a local government pension so I have a comfortable and reliable income Crucian's four year regime of battery changing does have some appeal. I'll now wish you all good night.

For a manual box, there should be a setting as @SteveTheElder noted. Here is the excerpt from the manual (Octavia MK4, production period 2022/06):

Bit the bullet and booked in with local auto electrician/ computer tech problem is it isn't all the time so hopefully it will go into limp when he has it.

Sudden battery failure is a frequent occurrence when the battery reaches end of life - especially if it has been giving some indications of weakness lately. Often happens with a sudden drop in temperature. Regular 5-mile trips are almost certainly not sufficient to maintain battery charge. Are you certain nothing was left switched on? At 2013, this vehicle is presumably not auto stop-start - is that correct?

Sorry no idea. As to your engine oil i expect you mean mixed with Diesel / Derv & not Gasoline / petrol.

The VRS in Glencoe on Wednesday. Got away with not having the winter wheels/tyres on 😵‍💫

My battery was around 3 years old when this happened, it was mostly my own fault though, I'd recently purchased OBD11 and would sit with it hooked up (ignition on) without a trickle charger time & again. I would trust the independent VW specialist over Skoda personally. It's not just due to issue's I've faced, but if you've been a member of this forum for any time, and have seen the repeated way in which Skoda treat their customers with nothing short of contempt time & again...

Yes. But… IIRC there is a setting to auto apply the parking brake when turning off the engine. You will see the P light up when it’s applied. (The light goes out when opening the door.)

Just joined up. Driving an Octavia iv PHEV 1.4 TSI. Looking for insights into overcoming the challenges of driving a modern car after spending 10 years with an older model. My, how things have changed….

Even the best automatice isn't directly connected to your brain the way your left leg and left arm are. Whether that matters or not depends on personal preference and skill. Many people do not drive well enough to beat the autobox ever. Other people have skill and want the control/entertainment of a manual. Even if you have the skill often you might want to take the lazy option. And as mentioned mnay times the option might not be available to you in the car you want. Also also, this is a car enthusiasts forum. Most people don't care, we're the odd ones out.

I like that idea, because it might also explain the lasting pressurisation (addition of gases whilst running). I also have a spare intercooler matrix I could try.

The car is a Skoda Yeti 1.2 ltr petrol 2016 plate DSG gearbox. It is on 125k miles It has a service history, but the only recorded service goes to 70k miles. Dealer is saying a service has recently been done but he has no invoice as of yet for it. Brake discs and pads are new. It is a dealer sale with a 3-month warranty from the garage itself nowhere else.

Hello, definitely worth having the inspection IMO.

If you have the cash to pay off the loan and interest straight away don't mention this to the salesperson/garage as they may will lose commission on this by having to pay back the finance commission. Check the terms of any agreement as to the costs of early settlement. It used to be that many people with the cash would take advantage of theses offers and then for various reason not settle straight off to avoid interest and the finance company would get some or lots of interest but buyers are more sophisticated now so the finance companies claw in what they can, if not from the car buyer then the car seller. If paying say £100 interest gets you an initial saving of say £1,000 (or £101) then it could be worthwhile, but say a £100 interest only initially saves £99 then not so good.

Tayna prices might impress you, for maybe a Bosch, with next day delivery - if that is an option now that you have a charger to try to make it just about useable for a day or two.

No malignant dark forces at work here, just a normal case of "Murphy's Law", sometimes attributed to "Henry J. Sodd", which clearly states "Anything that can go wrong ......WILL !! It happened on Sunday ! only Halfords is open ! Someone at your local Halfords is completely incompetent ! They have the battery in stock (or not! ) ! someone hit the wrong key ! someone else tried to cover it up ! Did they at any point actually check whether it was on the shelf ? You have my sympathy - this is a very frustrating situation. It's another day tomorrow - hope it goes better for you. P.S. In my experience credit card refunds usually take 2 or 3 days to appear on the account.

A 62 plate Citigo was my sons first car when he passed his test and he's still got it 6 years later.

Random continuation of this thread. I found in carscanner (strangely in the climate menu) the basic setting procedure for drivers seat. So went back to the long coding to remove lumbar control. Two bongs. Then did the basic setting procedure. Two bongs. Checked and no trouble codes. I was starting to get hopeful that I had got round the problem. Alas no. Still no memory function. Back to the long list for a new module!

You have been misinformed of dimensions of Yuasa HSB027, see Halfords website - it says - Dimensions (LxDxH): 242x175x190mm. As for the original issues - yes if the battery has been as low as 8.8 volts or even less it is very likely cream--crackered so you are wise to invest in a new one. However you MUST then check that you have a charging voltage of over 14 volts when engine running so that you know the alternator and charging circuit are working because if they are not then this would have caused the battery to fail -and will kill the new battery before long. Finally - the Charger you mention from Toolstation will be suitable, but if everything on the car is functioning correctly you probably won't need it (doesn't hurt to have one as "insurance" though !

Not on the petrol ones. So when you accelerate only? Where did the tyres get fitted to on the car? Thanks. AG Falco

Have you used a multimeter when the engine's running to see what the voltage is/ goes up to?

That's right, it's the Classic Yeti so it's not stop/start. I've just been out to the car and after about an hour the battery has recovered to 8.8v and the dash lights came on and the tailgate unlocked - then I decided not to push my luck. I will check the voltage when I can get it started as Johngerard suggests. I've been doing the same pattern of driving, mainly 5 mile each way trips and an occasional longer run a couple of times a month (but still around 40 miles round trip) for several years now since retiring without any problems but a charger seems a sensible investment - things are fine until suddenly they aren't. I don't want anything to clever and I'm thinking about one of these https://www.toolstation.com/ring-smart-battery-charger-maintainer/pAF045 The blurb says it is compatible with lead-acid, gel, calcium, EFB, AGM and lithium-ion batteries" and it's weather proof so I can leave it hanging in the car port when needed. Thank you both for your quick and helpful responses.

I ended up getting a second hand scrapyard lock. If you know the actual code pop a search in ebay.

Well it looks like a good deal provided it's not "nearly new". If you would be the first owner and you'd have all the usual first owner protection then looks good. Skoda don't have a deal anywhere near as good in the UK on their web site.

When you do get it started, check the battery voltage (engine running) should be ~ 14V, certainly > than say 13.5V while idling.

That is a good starting point. Now note the milage (or kilometers) and then do the same when the level has reached the bottom of the hatched area. This is point C on the diagram in your cars' handbook. Calculate the distance travelled. Then add oil to just reach the start of the hatched area. Note how much oil was added and then work out the rate of oil consumption.

And these two images show the guide's position in the seat back. The design of the guide seems to be standardised for use on multiple recent VAG Group vehicles, not just Skoda Fabia Mk 4s.

(My device of choice for online use is a 2010 Apple iMac and it's plain that this elderly machine has an uncomfortable relationship with the BRISKODA forum. I don't have this image-related problem using my iMac for other forums that run on the Invision Community platform and, although I can walk round the issue, it's a nuisance.) Anyway, the 2 attached photos should show the head-restraint guide (with central button) that's embedded in the front seat back and there are more photos on this ebay advert https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/297603909635

Cheers booked in for Monday for a full Bonnet respray

ah I think I am making words up here, sorry. Pretty sure I filled up to 2 mm above the hatched area (B area as you say?), which I have called Max. Should have taken pics of each measurement of course. Now the level is at the top of the hatched area. So on 500 km it has dropped 2 mm on the stick. Does that make sense?

MIB1= No. You need Retrofit MIB2 or aftersale solution

Don't go for Eicher they aren't very good, go for pagid much better than Eicher.

A few from today................

If you leave the Key in the car and shut the doors, nothing If you have the hill hold on, it won't do any thing as that only does anything when driving( its not a hand brake) but you do have a hand brake, but you don't need to apply it as when you stop the engine it will come on automatically, and also when you are setting off you don't need to take the hand brake off as it will disengage as you set off

I'm loving the superbs hard drive, I'm an old school cd man and I've loaded 40 plus albums so far and still loads of space on the drive, loads of albums and none of the clutter, happy days.

What would concern me is if technology can park my car in a tighter spot than a person, them someone else could hit it exiting their spot!

At the risk of sounding patronising, there are some videos on YouTube with tips using visual cues to help with parallel parking. Maybe take a look & find a quiet car park to practice in?

Has it ever worked while you’ve owned it?

Get the battery tested then. Also then get the car scanned for faults after. Thanks. AG Falco

Check the connector contacts from the cabin loom and the pins they go onto on the rear light clusters. You're looking for corrosion on one or more pins, most likely the earth which will be a brown wire usually.

Few snaps from work. Such a good-looking car.

Since I was lazy enough to manually upload, today the car get 26.2 via OTA

I jet washed under the car this week after the winter and was surprised how new looking most of the exhaust was at 9 years old, so it probably is.

1.2 tsi so petrol rather than diesel but mine is still going strong. I seem to remember reading on this forum years ago the exhaust is stainless steel(?) but I wouldn't swear to it.

It depends on your use of the car and it's electrics but only 2 years out of any battery sounds bad, Varta are normally a good make and EFB or EFB+ whilst possibly not as good as AGM aren't that bad. The battery gets the blame for many electrical and charging issues when the vast, vast (twice) majority of times it isn't the battery at fault, rather a problem with the car (part(s), component(s), system(s), programing) seen many times with VW - or and I'm not suggest this is the case this time, but other times, it's the use, abuse, neglect of the vehicle owner/driver(s). Varta is a reliable make, most are, VWŠkoda vehicles have been proven to be less so by all the different threads and posts on the various models of "battery problems". By all means fit a new battery for yourself and code it in (do this carefully to have correct data entry, loads and loads of examples of how on the various model forums here or I can post up info again here - but if you still have the car in 3 years time I expect you might have the same/similar issue (if not before). Good luck, let me know if you want battery 'coding' info (to confirm what you might already know, even more relevant if going AGM).

With the 1.5 TSI engine it depends what model year you are looking at; it has had modifications that have attempted to address the issues, I think its fair to say that it has improved but not not been completely fixed. It is a complex engine designed around the Miller cycle rather than the traditional Otto cycle, it requires very precise tolerances and tuning to perform properly. Many owners say it runs better on Premium fuel - like Shell V-Power and it benefits from Fixed annual servicing scheme rather the extended Flexible/Variable servicing scheme. The 1.0 TSI and 2.0 TSI engines on the otherhand seem to be problem free. With regard to the DSG gearbox fitted to the 1.5 TSI there are two versions - 2WD use the DQ 200 and 4WD use the DQ 381. The DQ 200 is a dry clutch and the DQ 381 a wet clutch. The majority of issues reported for the DSG gearbox are for the DQ 200, but there are literally millions of DQ 200 DSG gearboxes in use around the world in VW, Audi, SEAT and Skoda vehicles. Its a feature of Forums and Groups that the majority of posts relate to problems which skews the impression of an engine or gearbox. The DQ 200 has been around for over 15 years, with modifications and improvements, and the post 2015 DQ 200 is generally a reliable gearbox (I have a DQ 200 in our 2015 Fabia 1.2 TSI which we've had for 11 years). The DSG is a manual gearbox with a mechanically controlled clutch and gear selection mechanism, so just like the manual clutch and gearbox it can suffer if abused. The DQ 381 wet clutch is relatively new, its processor, was the bullet proof DQ 250 ( I had one of these in a VW for 11 years). I have a DQ 381 in my Karoq 2.0 TSI 4x4. There is no doubt that the 1.5 TSI is more suited to the DSG than the manual gearbox, as the DSG manages the foibles of the 1.5 TSI automatically. I would advise test driving a new 1.5 TSI manual and 1.5 TSI DSG - to set a bench mark as to how they should drive. Then when you test drive used ones you will have a standard against which to judge them. With the DSG it should creep smoothly without any throttle on tickover, change gear smoothly even under hard acceleration, pull away without jerkiness. Its your money and car at the end of the day and we all have different preferences and requirements.

There will be sound business reasons why this is offered, it will make the businesses involved (manufacturer, dealer, finance company) additional profits from offering this as some people may think they'll take advantage as those here have but many others for many reasons will not and slip into paying intertest for much longer or full period of the agreement. Paying by instalments, and the, usually, high rate of interest in small less noticeable chunks in habit forming to many and can lead to more frequent vehicle changes. Many purchasers turn a blind eye and deaf ear to the full amount of interest paid in the agreement.

I have recently changed the battery in one of the key fobs for my Rapid. It was a CR2032 CR2025 battery*, and the biggest difficulty was getting the cover off - I ended up using the outer end of the other key blade in the slot positions "B" as shown in the attached picture. A little twist in alternate "B" ends until you can remove the cover by hand. The battery pings out with a bit of leverage in the cut out hinted at in the picture. When the key is working the red LED opposite the key release button flashes when you press a button. I had no issue with alarms, but it was not my usual key with the flat battery. If the key needs re-synchronising here's a cut and paste from the handbook: "If the buttons on the remote control key have been depressed several times beyond the effective range of the equipment or the battery has been replaced in the remote control key and the vehicle cannot be unlocked with the remote control, the key must be synchronised. › Press any button on the remote control key. › Unlock the door with the key in the lock cylinder within 1 minute of pressing the button." Regards John H * CR2032 CR2025 can be found in the £shop, or equivalent discount place, on a card with 2 or more batteries of that size. Plus a number of CR3032's, and some CR2015's which find use in some of the books my grandchildren enjoy. Premium branded batteries may well last longer.