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So at last got my brake upgrade fitted today and wow what a difference. Brembo 4 pot calipers complimented by Ferodo DS2500 pads and custom made braided lines. Soon to go Stage 2

Even faster if it's been chipped!!

While my fuel gauge has been pretty accurate, I always reset my trip odometer at each fill up as a backup.

That's about 4,000 miles since the MOT test in mid-February. At this rate it'll be nudging 120,000 by June. Not bad for 20 years old this year!

Feel the same way. Musk instrumental in firing about 300K Civil servants and this has in part resulted in some chaos with government in several area. Would not buy a TESLA and I think their time is done and they are slipping back rapidly in the value and tech areas to BYD etc. Happy with my Renault EVs. Occasionally use their public chargers, just crazy low prices both north and south of me ie Gloucester and Brum ie 44p per kwh peak and 22p per KWh off peak, cheaper than I can charge at home during the day and 10 to 15 times the speed ! Only do occasionally and I get a pang of guilt on those rare occasions.

Sorry my mistake, from now I write only in english.

We must have just been reading the same piece. There is adjustment available via the infotainment for cars with Adaptive Functions. Nothing to be found in "settings" on my car so I'm guessing the following applies to me from the Manual:- Applies to headlights without adaptive functions. The headlights meet the requirements for driving in countries with opposite traffic direction. No headlight adjustment is necessary. So yes, no sticky tape required. Thanks

2 litre diesel

Hi, welcome. This might be better in the Fabia Mk2 forum, I'll report it to a Moderator and see what they think (by clicking on the three dots at the top right corner of your post and selecting 'Report').

Done about 14k a year with it since buying it at 17 (in 2021). Just laps the miles up no bother at all. 56 plate and keeps going.

I did. I was quoted £175 to have a professional wrap them. They’re quite a complex shape so didn’t fancy tackling it myself. And then if I was ever to use them with roof bars etc it’s likely the clamps would damage the film. The ones I bought were £64 delivered. The sun visor removal tool cost me £5. And so long as I don’t break anything in the process of installing them then that should be all it costs me to install! 🤞

Normaly you have To Code Abs Control Unit

…and faster than an Octavia vRS 🤭

Mib3 Preh? Simple To fix the Problem with the FeC by DIY with USB The reason, the memory Structure reorgenice New from Firmware 01xx To Firmware 02XX

Same here ordered january will be here june . Gone blue though .

I can't comment as I don't know enough about the TDI engines, but I will say that VAG oil/coolant consumption figures tend to be a bit of a joke. IIRC VW say that it is normal to burn up to a litre of oil for every 1,000 miles or so - if your car is anywhere near this, you have something wrong.

The old Skoda joke is that one parked on the drive is a deterrent to burglars as they assume nothing worth stealing in the property. Old Skoda more likely to get pinched, Mk1,s or 2,s. Fabia / Octavia.

Glad it was the sensor not the DPF. Read it can be a fairly common problem. Alasdair

UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED When investigating the dpf pressure sensor itself, I opened up the heatshield to discover a molten mass of plastic. The sensor was toast. Ordered a new one (part no. 03L906051D) along with another plug which was also toast.......ebay was £40 cheaper than main dealer for the same part. No idea why it would have totally melted but hope the new one will survive better. Worthy of note is that the sensor has two pipe connections but confusingly, only one pipe coming from the engine........after putting in a call to the (very helpful) Skoda dealer, it seems one port is simply left open to the air (atmospheric pressure). Now I'm waiting patiently (not) for the part to arrive. Thanks to all who commented.

Thank you. Thats why I didn’t want a Golf R for the size and nic-ability. I also am still a Skoda fan since my first one and like the fact its a sleeper and fully loaded L&K with amazing rear leg room as I also have a Mk2.

Thanks all for the help, the loose wiring was indeed for the dlr on the bumper, but took me like 30min to explain it to the mot guy who had hard time believing that the fog light were indeed the dlr, and the small bulbs inside the headlights should work also.

Considering most Octavias and Superbs are minicabs, I think you'll be alright. The vRS is a much more attractive offering, as they can be parted out for GTi/R/S3/Cupras a bit more easily. I also knew someone that has his nicked, debadged and used for crime while wearing fake taxi plates (not that fake taxi). As above, pretty niche though. It also depends where you live. Mine lives in a secure garage, but both the 2024 1 Series and 2022 Ibiza on the drive have steering wheel locks. Around us, people put bollards and steering locks to protect a 2004 Ford KA. It's London! I wouldn't say any of these cars are particularly desirable. If someone knew what they were, then they'd likely be more interested in the 'flashier' performance siblings from Audi or VW.

It is clear you made a practical choice, especially with towing needs and family usability in mind. The maintenance work already completed should help with long-term reliability and reduce surprises. It is also nice to see the car fitting family use well, as those small interior features can make everyday driving and trips much more comfortable.

Turns out the screenwash pump had died. Changing the pump cured the problem. Of course the job wasn't quite as simple as that sounds. Minor aggravations along the way included the following: 1. Unused as I am to modern cars, I was shocked to find no jack or wheel brace in the boot. I don't know why I was surprised: they hadn't given me a spare wheel (just a bottle of get-you-home sealant) so why would they need to provide the means to change a wheel? Fortunately, I have a trolley jack. Oddly, they HAD given me a little plastic grippy thing for removing the plastic covers from the wheel nuts. I also discovered they had provided an electric air pump that runs off the 12V lighter socket, which is smaller and lighter than my existing one, so I can retire mine now. Thanks, Skoda! 2. When the fault first showed itself, front and rear WIPERS still operated, although the WASHERS did not. Then the symptoms changed, such that the rear WIPERS also did not operate. I re-checked all the relevant fuses and found nothing wrong. I still don't know the reason for this. The rear wipers worked again after I changed the pump. 3. Before changing the pump I thought I would just check that electricity was reaching the pump. I pulled the connector off the old pump, switched on the ignition, held a voltmeter to the two terminals in the connector, and had an assistant operate the stalk controls for wash-wipe. I didn't see any voltage across the terminals. Aha, I thought, it's a fault in the wiring, or in the stalk controls. I was about to call a garage, but on a whim, I connected the new pump electrically and repeated the test. The new pump ran. Moral of the story: a voltmeter might not be the preferred way of checking for voltage?? Maybe my probes weren't making proper contact, who knows. 4. The front WIPERS do not operate if the bonnet is open, although the washers do. This confused the post-replacement testing. Presumably this is a safety feature to prevent the wiper arms from fouling on the bonnet lid. There must be a microswitch somewhere to detect the bonnet being open. I'm not used to this level of automation! 5. The wheel arch liner is held in place by about 12 screws with T25 Torx heads, that go into spire nuts. After reassembly, I had two screws left over, and couldn't find where they should go. I think the lighting conditions were the main problem. I'm not going to worry about it - I don't think the liner is going anywhere.

Its probably the back pressure control valve, I just found mine has one (2015 vRS TDi) and it wasn't plugged in, since plugged it in and the cars running much better now... which is probably not a surprise.

Not as far as I've seen and not for me. There's so little knowledge about them that the chances of it being nicked because its a 280 is low because: there are so many other models with the same engine that have a more desirable badge joe public doesn't even realise the 280 exists as a model which "has the Golf R engine in" the only obvious external identifiers (aside from the badges) are brake size and real exhausts. both pretty niche. Other one I can think of are the DSG oil cooler and for that you have to notice the front nearside portion of the lower grill is open and notice the cooler behind there. Even more niche. In other words, the value you place on it is entirely your own. I've de-badged mine so unless someone observes cars other than reading badges, it might as well be a 1.4. I'm not going as far as putting a TDi badge on though.

That's interesting and thanks for replying. I've not had the chance to get under again to look. I know that the other car didn't have one. So it must affect performance if it's restricting flow. Cheers

Try to remove the plastic grill (there should be an hook in the spare tyre kit to remove it) and remove the bolts holding the drl, remove the drl and see if the connector behind it is plugged From this thread https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/500244-fabia-vrs-mk2-sidelight-drl-bulb-replacement/ Look at the wire in your picture and the one plugged behind the drl they look the same

First of all, does the two drls work when you switch the ignition on?

DAB antenna input

A must for all true EVangelists...... Available from AMAZON EF ECOFLOW Power Hat(L-XL) 360-Degree Solar-Powered Wearable Hat, Waterproof, Ultra Light, Foldable, Dual USB-A & USB-C Ports, Charge Smart Phones Not a late April fools, they have already sold going on for a thousand of these ! Think I will wait until they go from £99 to £9.

Well, that's exactly what my sister-in-law's car does. She was advised to take the car out for a 20 to 30-minute drive at least once a week to make sure that the 12V battery is kept charged. I think the entire car depends on the 12V battery for both electric and ICE modes for the control aspect. If that battery ever goes flat, then the car is going nowhere until that is rectified.

... until Musk aligned himself with the Orange Baby! My future stepson had a Tesla as his previous company car, when he first got it many passers by commented on his nice car but more recently a typical comment was "shame about the car".

Try and go for the 2 year finance which gives those benefits. 2 yr warranty 2 year mot with contribution of about £750 for issues. 2 years breakdown. Servicing 2 years is now 250 before April was £99. They reduce the car price by £250. Pay it off within cooling off period and you keep all the benefits free. That might soften the blow and help the price a little. You just pay daily interest until you pay it off which is hardly anything say £50-100

Sorry my mistake. From now I write only in english

Id suspect the master cylinder is at fault? Was it an aftermarket ebay special?? I have seen aftermarket calipers and cylinders do similar thing on Toyota's in the past. Jambed brakes. That said, why did you replace master cylinder? Maybe that is the underlying cause??

The side lights in the headlights on the fab Rs don't work as DRL are the side lights they dim when you turn on the side lights

Hi Carius, and thank you ("all of you guys who advise me") for your guidance and support. After I update the firmware provided have the unit back to normal. 1.Navigation is working not sure if was updated to the latest version during this process, I can mention is an CD inside and probably that is for the navigation anyway I'm not interested in that I will use Android auto and Google. 2.Phone , Bluetooth audio, Android auto and carplay all working fine trough an USB adapter plugged in the USB port. Car settings all that I used on the original unit seams to work. Voice commands also working. If we look on the diagnose side I can see on 5F module about 7 errors but I can ignore them if the functionality I'm interested is working! My next task is to add reverse camera back to this unit because that is an OEM camera that was working on the donor car. I have the right harness kit from AliExpress and I will connect them accordingly with some youtube guide. Now I'm not sure if anything will require to be adaptation or coding after this firmware update on the unit.. how I mentioned it was working on this unit before.

Today I ripped into it - took out the air filter box, battery, ECU and both headlights. Then, armed with some 120 grit aluminium oxide paper and a wire brush, I shined up all the earth points I could find (two on the bulkhead by the battery, the gearbox/chassis earths, and one under each headlamp). I also shined up all the fuses and relay in the engine bay fusebox. I inspected the ECU and wiring for signs of corrosion and damage, no smoking gun - the ECU connections looked pristine, and I measured the earth connections with a multimeter. The earth points all looked "ok" - no obvious problems, but they did all look like they were 16 years old on a car that had spent every single day outside I suppose! I was bit annoyed that I hadn't found an obvious answer, but after re-assembling I drove it to my girlfriend's and back and the problem hasn't reared its head. Also, the voltage readout on my android head unit was a lot more stable than it had been previously. I won't call it fixed just yet, but it looks like it was worth doing!

What engine & mileage?

Changed rear discs and pads for brembo units today to try and cure the rumble under heavy braking that’s particularly bad using the ACC. All went pretty straightforward thanks to @Bap33 brilliant guide over on the kodiaq guides section. No major dramas. A couple of tense moments with nearly rounding out one of the Torx that holds one disc on and a disc that refused to come off and needed some percussive persuasion. Pleased to say that all back together with no issue and from the short gentle test drive seems to have cured the rumble. Carscanner worked perfectly to apply, remove and calibrate service mode on the EPB.

As above. If you supply a pump and "the garage" fits it, then maybe after 6 months there's a problem with the part or workmanship.......who's to say if it's the part that's the problem or the workmanship. Have the garage supply and fit the part then if there's a problem it's on them.

Fair. Probably best to let the mechanic do it. Wouldn't you just let the mechanic buy what they need? That's how it normally works right? You don't buy anything if you aren't doing the job. Just take car to mechanic and they will get what they need based on their experience.

Yep, you know this to be true, Lee!

the tv reception on the factor fitted unit is very iffy so i would suggest don't waste your time.

OEM solutions do not support current TV standards (DVBT) so all you can do is to find some aftermarket ones.

I too have a red 130 on order (ordered early dec '25) but have just been informed by the garage that I won't get it til June !

Latest Updated Speedcams - January, 2026. Here goes - my first upload for this year. Once again here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( January, 2026 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Redlight Speedcams, Fixed Speedcams , Average Speedcams ( which also include European tunnel speedcams ) and Variable Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - January, 2026.zip * Credit to jungblume2005 from Gpsurl for sharing his files which I borrowed and then converted in order to make this compilation.

I suspect it is 50% down to the brand of tyre as much as the profile and size. I have the dreaded Bridgestone's and they are "pants". from a noise point of view. On my old Tiguan I had the same issue (it was the sport with the 18" low profiles) and swapped over to Khumo's KU39's and it was night and day (noise wise) and they were nice and grippy in both dry and wet but they did seem to wear a bit quicker. For me these were the best "budget" tyres if that is your thing at about £90 a corner several years ago. Sadly I don't think Khumo do the KU39's in the Karoq 18" size of 215/50 R18 :-( They do have a tyre called the ECOWING ES31 in that size though and one bloke on tyrereviews.com said this: "Had the new tyres for a year now, original tyres were bridgstone turanza. The first thing i noticed was how quiet the vehicle was with increased levels of comfort, especially when crossing speed humps, much more compliant. I undertake some long motorway journeys, monthly and recorded significant improvement to the fuel economy app 5/6mpg ( cruising around 65mph). Too early to comment on wear and tyre life but it's looks promising. i think they are good value for the money!" They are most likely not easy to find but may be worth a punt at under £100 a corner.