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A few from yesterday afternoon at Clumber Park - they had 13😳

V70 on the way down to Paris last week: Gaz

Momma's gonna be busy!

Hi All Well my Super B is really going well at the minute - She really is earning her keep at the minute - we are up on 7-800km each week However she is looking a bit scruffy and I've been donated a front bumper with foglights for free - Its the same paint code LF8L so is a perfect match Now the replacement bumper is not drilled for sensors - I have 6 on mine -There does not seem to be any markings even Is it possible to drill out the replacement bumper or are there brackets moulded into mine to hold the sensors? Has anyone done this job? I don't want to look like an ungrateful git after the generous donation of a mint bumper of the same code and I could take off mine and look but it would be handy to have a little inside knowledge first so any suggestions would be helpful Thanks in Advance Lads

Nothing to do with stop start and no it doesn’t wear anything out

Good afternoon. Just had my new wheels fitted. Borbet N in Crystal Silver, 18, 7.5j, et41. Got a price from Skoda for new Themisto's, nearly fell over. These 4 delivered from Germany were cheaper than one new Themisto. And they sustainable allegedly, made from recycled alloys. Lighter per wheel, but not had a chance to feel any difference, if any. Very happy with the look and stance.

I just ordered a new ‘used’ set of original alloys for mine too. In really good condition. Came from Lithuania via Ovoko (a brilliant company for decent Skoda spares). Approximately £320 for 4 delivered to France with 60% worn tyres (which I wasn’t expecting tbh). All for less than the price of one ‘new’ original Skoda one. I needed a set to help get my car through it’s registration process here in France…a story for another time.

Hi. I am a Skoda owner. I have had an 05 Octavia, a 2013 Fabia Vrs, a 2017 Kodiaq, and now my son has a 2013 Fabia Monte Carlo for his first car! I hope all of you are well! Geoff

awesome cheers for this, will try that tomorrow when im back from work and update you

VAG have a history of not be too careful about the accuracy of the 155mph limiter, my previous VAG car wouldn't hit the limiter until 187mph (GPS indicated) - verified on an unrestricted autobahn!.

One area where you get get this noise from, especially in colder weather, is the front suspension top mounts - they are "rubber" and just sit in an inverted cup at the top of the struts, not much can be done if that is the issue, I've considered applying talc to the top mounting to see if that improves things - but as it is only happening in colder weather and at the start of journeys, I've not moved on that idea. Next is the lower arms rear mountings, they can tear as they are voided, and that will tend to keep making noises even when the temperature increases. Last, there is the top gearbox mounting, depending on which version is currently fitted, replacing it with one for the TDI if you have a TSI can improve things.

Solved! Literally just gave the power button a hard wack and it switched on 😂 Must just be a dodgy button. Worth replacing/easy to replace?

Just because VW508 00 / 509 00, so 0w 20 FS IV is the recommended oil and not VW 504 00 / 507 00 0w 30 FS III.

My Bad, i was thinking km...

Manual or auto?

Service your car, do your oil changes in time and it will pass 200000km easy. Also change your gear box oil at this mileage

The Disunited in such a state of Mericans is big, very oil rich and with many that like big vehicles & have still a recent history of vehicle manufacturers and engine builders . So unlike England that is not huge and not oil rich, and is in fact oil and resources poor. Also renewable and nuclear poor because of years thinking about things. Norway is oil rich and not unaware of the issue with fossil fuels and climate change. Mericans have flown to the moon and mars and now around the moon and yet could not sort out pollution reduction in vehicles and make them reliable for 500,000 miles.

@scott4315 Could it be a 1.5 TSI ACT Petrol ? there are no 1.6 Petrol,s in Skoda,s sold from that age in the UK to my knowledge.

Ouch, sounds like a very expensive repair.

Agree with NTA and Evolution on this. If you just want more performance from the car, its not really going to happen with some magic remap. Directly, any more performance-based mapping will need to take advantage of increased air flow (induction kit), cooler charge (intercooler) and potentially exhaust to assist with increased exhaust gas flow capacity. But before all that the responsible thing to do is make sure the car is looked after well - changing the oil and service items more often; and servicing gearbox/diffs more often than advised etc.

Thanks for replying, it's a 71 plate. A 1.6 petrol i believe. Hopefully the change in petrol like you suggest. I bought the car last July and had it serviced by the garage I've used for years. I'll check if they did the air filter. Also good idea about the spark plugs, i'll try and find out if the last owner had them done. From memory the car is approaching 40k. Perhaps just best to get them replaced rather than wait to breakdown

Exactly, below the screen but above the plastic trim there are two holes to insert the removal keys. There is NO need to remove the plastic trim.

Hi I wanted to know that about mine so I googled it and came up with this: 'Open the bonnet and have a look for the yellow and black refrigerant sticker above the radiator. If you have a heat pump it’ll be using CO2, which is R744. If it says R1234 then it’s aircon only, no heat pump.' Sadly, mine hasn't got one. You can also look in your My Skoda app (when you've got it) and under Car Detals there is a link to download a digital certificate which gives an overview of selected info about your vehicle

If its the same as mine its Meteor Grey. Great colour for not showing the dirt.

Or could it be that other authorities are being less truthful and not wanting to be seen climbing down from their green image and admitting that they have spent masses of public money on something that is not ideal for the job? Remember these are trucks that are by their very nature going to be doing a massive amount of stop/start driving; depending on the road, it might be many such cycles per road. Then there is the extra muscle that needs to be addressed, all the compacting, etc. that these trucks have to do. These trucks weigh far more than a BEV car does, and they have to get that weight moving again from a dead stop and move maybe 100 metres down the road and stop and repeat all that many times on some roads.

It rather sounds as if this vehicle has had a history of coolant issues. Give them 1 chance to repair the leak, on the clear proviso that if they fail to fix it to your complete satisfaction, you reserve the right to reject for full refund.

I am in the same boat. Aftermarket Tow bar fitted to a Mk4 with tow bar prep which isn't (and can't be coded). Seems pointless having a fancy car that becomes silly when towing a caravan. I'd be interested if your Skoda fitted tow bar solves all problems when towing your rig. Let us know and I might have to reluctantly get another tow fitted 😭

Thank you very much for the topic and the explanation you have made. It really is not found anywhere else. Will this method work on MEN2_EU_SKGPX_P0080L? And my other question is can I use vvdi prog instead of CH341A. Thanks again for the tutorial

It is only common with DQ200,s not operating properly and what is common is that 1.6TDI,s with a DQ200 more often go wrong than with those fitted to a TSI.

Id say that's a common thing with DSGs, they can't always anticipate your conditions so yeah, occasionally it gets it wrong. No biggie

My Mk3 with 7 speed dsg does this if I shift into D or R to quickly after starting. As in less than 1 second after start. I suspect it is just me beating the computer's start up sequence. I dont think its a big problem. Solution: start, wait say 2 sec, maybe put seatbelt on, then engage gear and drive off.

My understanding is that "honk and flash" isn't in the app unless your Enyaq is on software version 5. Mine is on 4 and I don't have it. To be honest I did have it on my old Skoda Superb, but I never used it. It's certainly not something I'd risk the potential pain of updating to version 5 for.

A good carpet of Bluebells this evening.........

Thanks Alasdair and Jack, I couldn't find anything wrong on the outside of the box so I decided to remove it. I suspect it's the pressure plate fingers that have caved it. I'll let you know what I find

Reverse lights are the usual place to splice into for an aftermarket set. It will power on when in reverse then

Answering my own question for anyone else down the line. It's 3T0521101A.

I know about inclement weather up here. I'm a bit further up here than Skye. It's a beautiful island, I've been around it a few times. I run two sets of wheels and tyres, I have vredeisten winters on the standard Karoq alloys and kormoran SUV summer tyres on the other set. Kormoran are made by Michelin as far as I'm aware, and have been great on the karoq and previous yeti. They are 5 years old, done over 30k. Two are about done, two still have about 5mm just starting to perish.

I changed the batteries and it does operate when boot opens and then goes off, but when removed it will not operate as a torch so I guess its knackered inside somewhere. Will have to look for a replacement..

If it goes into gear no problem with engine off the Gbox should be fine and selector mechanism good. If you have reset cables then it does sound like a clutch problem. Wonder if the slave is starting to fail and only pushing so far before fluid leaks past the seals. On mine its an external slave but actuator rod is internal so cant see if its leaking. If its the same as mine I managed to change mine without Gbox removal. Could also be a failing master but I would start with slave. Might be worth bleeding clutch system first in case theres any air in there. Alasdair

Create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet for example MIB3 UG. Then find the zip file and then right click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to MIB3 UG folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished, format a usb memory stick so it's completely empty, then go to the folder MIB3 UG open it and copy the 2 folders and other file directly onto the memory stick. When it has finished copying the files to the memory stick it should look something like this... THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES THAN THIS. Once your memory stick looks like this, remove it and take it to the car. Insert it into a USB port, press and hold the menu button for about 10 seconds and the update menu will appear. At this point it's vital that you have a full or very well charged car battery or a battery charger attached so that the car doesn't shutdown halfway through the process. Ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. Here's a video that shows you what to do, albeit in German, you'll get the English version! If you watch it carefully you'll get the gist of what to do. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM. Notes. After it has finished updating the system, give it a couple of minutes to ensure that all is well and like it shows on video press resume an wait for about 90s or so and the system will restart just, like in the video. DO NOT START THE CAR UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS RESTARTED After the update the built-in manual is unlikely to be available for about 48hrs, it does come back! You will more than likely receive another OTA update, it's OK to accept it. Ultimately if you are at all worried about doing it, take it to a VW Independent or Skoda dealer and ask them to do it for you Once it has been updated, there should be no more random restarts or crashes on the infotainment system, the pop pop issue should be gone too.. https://youtu.be/4AsSbGd3caU

Thanks both! Seems there's a chance my car has a fair bit more life left in it. I live in a cold region, but not quite to the same extent as the Nordic region. I will proceed with the maintenance with this in mind, hoping to keep the car for many more years!

And dpf is original too. If i choose i rather take high km than low. Long distance driving is good for diesel and many repairs are made before you buy car. Example turbo or dual mass. (About 350k done for my car). It had 405k when i bought.

I have soon 450tkm and running strong. Only body rust is top off skirts near rear wheels. Skirt and bottom of car not bad. Now seems that rear bushings etc are little bit worn but cheap to fix.

Mine 2012 Superb Kombi 1.6TDI has 425 000km on the clock and just recentlyI changed timing belt+water pump. Oli change every max 10 000km and engine still running smootly! I’m in Nordic region with proper four seasons. Rust is an issue, but prevenitve bodyceare will help to stop this process.

As put you may find more info in another forum(s) on this site such as the 'Project' forums of the models that use the same 1.0 TSI engine (what differences there might be with India engines I don't know. You may already know and do what follows but many that have or want their cars tuned don't. There is no such thing really as Stage 1, 2 or more though there might be general agreement of what they might consist of there could be different interpretations by different people and tuners and in different regions and counties. As stated you also need to find good reliable tuners in India that know your car make, model and engine to see what they do and use and what results they usually get. First part of any tuning is having the whole car in good working order and the whole call fully and properly serviced, maintained and repaired thoroughly and in timely manner. To have all systems, components and parts in good working order. Most important are brakes, suspension, steering (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, horn, wiper, etc.) after those is transmission and engine. Once all that is sorted you can move on to stage tuning but bear in mind as with everything on the car further tuning can/will bring further compromises, such as if tuned for top end performance you can lose some bottom and middle performance that makes less efficiency of normal everyday driving. Not all "improvements" and "upgrades" are overall improvements or improvements at all, things have to be balanced. This is why you need a good reliable tuner that knows what they are doing with your particular car make, model and engine. Next bit many men don't like - after full and proper, thorough, timely servicing, maintenance and repair is something that is transferable to future cars, further driver training. A good driver can get more out of a standard or tuned cars. I hope that helps.

so just checked, milage is just under 35k. Service last October was interim smaller service so this year it's due the full service, spark plug change.

@Graham Butcher You win. Never in your lifetime will they catch on. No use, like logging lorries and other HGV,s.. Obviously not the same weight or design or power from a van. Expected delivery every 6 minutes or less. Amazon deliveries can be many on the same road and there day is far longer than a Refuse lorries for many towns or cities. Electric Double decker busses will never catch on, all that stop start between bus stops. .................. Green Councils have 4 or 5 types of refuse collections. So General Waste, Paper / Cardboard, Recycling, Food waste, Garden waste and glass. In Angus you have to take glass to public bins / skips. Youi pay for gardenm waste collection. Food waste are smaller vehicles. So really it is about working hours and distance to refuse tips or yards and vehicle fleet and charging. Dundee City different from Angus, or Perth and Kinross or Fife.

Well last mile delivery vans don't get multiple stops in the same road after 100 metres, in all the roads on their route. Also not carrying the same weight, speaking of which, they get lighter as the day progress so need less energy towards the end. The reverse is true with the bin lorries which are very heavy at the end.