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Personally I wouldn't bother... They are less 'stealable' and there is more chance of something aftermarket messing with the OE electronics. If you want something extra get something physical like a steering wheel lock or similar (chain and a padlock through the wheel and round the seat runners was recommended by ex-police friends) and get a cover or similar for the OBD port which can be reached from a broken window. Other than that keys in a faraday pouch / case when at home.

In VAT? I definitely don't want a heat pump.

500 page thread, wowzer!😮 And I'm still no closer to moving off the fence. Gaz

So a hybrid with a 'small' battery charging at night on a cheaper tariff wont be making a £200 odd difference a month... Maybe few quid according to the figures you keep telling us? So as previously stated... the heat pump is bloody expensive to run. End of story...

Eh??? You keep telling us EVs are dirt cheap to run... And if he's working from home a lot he surely wouldn't be paying a couple of hundred a month on fuel for ICE cars. So basically Heat Pumps are bloody expensive to run is what you're saying.

£1 a week average saving per household for 26 weeks over winter on elsctricity. Obviouly lowest users not even £1. Standing charge even without vat might be over £3.50 a week. Mine is. Luckily i have tariff capped till next June on ev smart meter tariff on dual fuel. Public charging today i was £17.50 for about 120 miles. 20% vat. Yestrrdsy 190 miles from £3.50 of home charging.

Generally one disc wearing excessively compared to the other side suggests that the pads could be sticking.

“30% worn” is not a valid reason to replace brake discs. It also does not mean braking efficiency has fallen by 30%. Disc thickness has relatively little effect on the braking torque available in an ordinary stop. That is determined mainly by hydraulic pressure, caliper clamping force, pad friction, disc radius and tyre grip. A disc can therefore continue to produce normal braking force while substantially worn. Manufacturers specify an absolute minimum thickness. For example: new disc: 25.0 mm minimum thickness: 23.0 mm measured thickness: 24.4 mm Such a disc has lost only 0.6 mm, but it has used 30% of its permitted wear allowance. It still has 70% of its usable wear remaining. Replacing it solely on that basis would be premature. In such a case I would ask the garage to provide three figures: the original nominal thickness; the manufacturer’s minimum thickness; the actual measured thickness of each disc.

Hello everybody! You can tell if you drive a lot and come from a different brand the the Octavia ride quality it’s not on the top level compared to other brands or other platforms within the group! I have a 2021 Octavia 150tdi dsg with torsion beam and also a golf8 1,5 with multi link and I can tell how day and night is the golf compared to Octavia! My Octavia came with 205/55/17 and stock suspension up to 150k km, then I changed it to Bilstein b6 with sportline plus springs and 19 vRS 225/45/19 wheels! The ride quality drastically change to better but you got to be careful over speed bumps! My preview car was a 320 BMW F30 upgraded with Bilstein and eibach as well so for my was a must to upgrade the floaty suspension of the Octavia since I make 150-180 km daily! If I will change something now will be to try a 8x18 wheels with 225/45 tyres!

If you want piece of mind, fit a hidden kill switch. Then even if your keys are taken the car can't be started.....assuming you've flicked the switch that is ! I see modern cars with steering wheel covers/locks these days, a good deterrent I think?

Hi all, Found the forum very usefull and filled with info, so thought i join. Bought my first Skoda a year ago, a Octavia 1,8tsi from 2016. All the best from Denmark

Yeah get rid of them trees! 🤭

Theft risk is obviously location dependent. I wouldn’t have thought an RS would be a targeted vehicle as to most people it’s just a Skoda. The car already has an immobiliser and an alarm standard. I guess it depends on whether you are garaging the car or parking it on the street?

Hi. If it's of any help we recommend these for vehicle security. Maybe they can offer you some adivce. https://www.gapsecurity.co.uk/ Regards. Dan.

auto glass claim warranty for the lifetime of your ownership of the vehicle. So I would be going back to them. But I suspect you will end up in an endless loop of auto glass blame Skoda. Skoda blame auto glass. Repeat.

Personally I don't see petrol, diesel or gas going anywhere anytime soon. It is / was demonised for an agenda by those that will cash in big time by those with their vested interests. But like I have said before, I don't hate electric cars, I just hate the fact that they are trying to remove people's choice, end of.

Mine was recently taken to 0311 by the dealer, and infotainment to 1989. Similar to @scotthugh3s I've never had any 'big' updates via OTA. App and Map updates have always been pushed OTA without an issue. However, all seems completely fine with OCU at 0311 and infotainment at 1989. The only real difference I've noticed between 1985 and 1989 is that it's displaying far more radio station logos.

No no you misinderstand. One daughter has a full BEV and charges it overnight most nights. Brov has a hvbrid, not a PHEV one so does not charge it off home lecky. Expect thd BEV does take a few quid of lecky each night as the Cosy tariff is price optimised for the house not the BEV. I have charged there several times too but do not start charging until after 1900 hours as electricity is very expensive between 1600 and 1900, like 40p per KWh due to the tea time peak prices. One has to be disciplined with these Times Of Use tariffs but with the removal of 5% VAT even bigger savings for charging in the more expensive times !

Important, ensure you remove the negative terminal first. Assuming your battery terminals are the normal clamp type, after removing the negative terminal, loosen the positive clamp bolt so that there are clear threads showing between the nut and clamp, insert a largish flat-blade screwdriver in the slot where the clamp bolt passes through the clamp, twist the screwdriver to release the clamp slightly, then twist the clamp to release from the battery terminal post.

Perhaps consider just fitting the tracker - although there are clearly ways available to circumvent these if the thieves really want your vehicle!

I love the bit about the receptionist and costing money - when did main dealers become so mercenary - speaking to one of the actual grease monkeys rather than a front of house female is impossible these days.....?

Over rear-passenger door bulbs replaced. I remain flummoxed at how difficult it was to get those light units out of their metal frames in the roof. Snapping them back in was a .. snap (you knew I was going to say that). I hope these new LED bulbs last a long time; I do NOT look forward to having to extract those things again! Next stop: front reading lights! (I'll post a new thread). Thanks again, all, for the guidance! -Jay p.s. Not sure if I posted the specifics: Rear cargo area flat-ish lots-of-little-LED bulbs (flat-ish because they have both a flat section, with ten little LEDs on each side, and then perpendicular to that a round section with another six little LEDs on top, picture below): https://www.amazon.es/dp/B0D7J2VJ2Z "Astur group" "W5W LED Canbus Error Free 26 LED 4014 SMD 6000K Super Bright 360° Visibility Easy Installation LED Car Interior Light and License Plate Pack, White (Pack of 10 T10 Premium)" €10 Rear passenger seat over-door lights: https://www.amazon.es/dp/B0FFY95763 "KATUR" "36mm Festoon C5W (4pcs)" - half of a barrel, with little LEDs strewn all across; non-polarity (can insert in either direction), just have to place the bulb into the C5W socked so that the LED-"festooned" (see what I did there?) side faces towards the lens inwards to the car cabin:

With all the new wind farms coming online, more people generating their own the supply should be outstrippind demand and more instances of very cheap or negative priced electricity. Does also depend if these data centres buy up huge amounts of power and drive up prices on the other side of the coin.

I've got Michelin Crossclimate 3 Sport 225/40R19 and can recommend them at a great price from Costco when on offer £660 for four. Great wet or dry and way less noise than standard Bridgestone summer tyre's fitted from new.

Hi, Not mine, but also OEM head rest from sleep package : Deployed: Stowed:

Did you touch the wheels? Is there any difference in temperature? Are discs the same colour. Dont you feel puling force to the left when braking? Maybe left wheel doesnt brake. All the job goes to the right wheel. Go to garage with gauges and compare braking force.

I’m flip flopping at the moment - should’ve been a politician. Think I’ll wait, chew it over. Thing is…..as a Keeper it’ll likely be worth more to me than any likely Insurance payout in the event of a theft. And the range of Wagons isnt on the increase. Haha. Encourages me to guard it like a Crown.

This is the cause surely, but your annual mileage seems pretty average, and usually it's the rear discs that corrode before the front as they don't generally contribute so much to the braking effort. So for one of the front discs to corrode more than the rest suggests that either the brakes are unbalanced due to sticking pads etc as discussed above, or a manufacturing defect in the disc.

Two cracked screens in half a million miles is not bad odds, really. Just so happens that they both occured within six months. "Them's the breaks..."

Jeez... That's mental for a system purposely designed for a heat pump... I'm similar (5 bed detached built 1958, with house occupied all day and me often WFH) and my combined gas and electric is £230 a month tops.

When choosing aftermarket shock absorbers, it's best to first get the OEM part numbers of the original factory fitted shock absorbers. Aftermarket shock absorbers usually have a list of OEM part numbers that they are being sold to replace. Often this list is very long, in which case the aftermarket shock absorber might not be a close match to the original...ie. a one size fits all approach. With the Octavia MK3 VRS it might be best to go for original Skoda shock absorbers...that way the shock absorbers will be what Skoda intended. Price is around twice that of OE quality aftermarket shock absorbers such as Bilstein B4, Sachs, KYB, etc. An alternative to genuine Skoda shock absorbers is Bistein B6/B8. These have a superior mono-tube design rather than the usual twin-tube design of most other shock absorbers. Bilstein B6/B8 shock absorbers might not cost much more than genuine Skoda shock absorbers. The factory OEM part numbers for the shock absorbers can be found on the "skoda parts com" website by setting up an account and putting the car's VIN number in the online garage. Then when genuine Skoda shock absorbers are searched for, only the correct OEM part numbers are shown.

If there is corrosion on the pistons pushing the pads out then they will go out with pedal pressure but can be reluctant to return. A previous car I had used sliding calipers (doubt the Karoq has these but) and one side wasn’t sliding hence the majority of braking effort, pad wear and disc wear was on one side of the disc.

Had a few VAG vehicles previously but the Yeti is my first Skoda. Very impressed so far.

No. A won’t allow it to be started and driven in the first place unit. An additional layer of security above the standard kit.

Reckon its just bad luck. Only windscreen that went on me was on an old Fiat 131. Old school non laminated one that exploded into little bits. Scared the **** out of me. Saw the big stone come out between lorry wheels in front of me and bang. It could maybe be the angle of windscreen or perhaps they are being made thinner these days to lighten car that makes them more prone to cracking. Hope as you have had two go you wont have any more for the next 500k at least Alasdair

Thank you so much for the reply i will make sure to update you all once i make my final decision and buy the car.

EDIT: I forgot to add that there was obvious corrosion to the disc

I've bought a pair for my Kodiaq Mk1 on oemvwshop.com. You can contact them and based on your VIN, they'll tell you which reference suits your car (incl. color code). ;)

Thanks, I contacted vision coding as they were recommend on a different thread but before I went with the purchase I came across this video and I managed to get it working as per the guide, all I needed to buy was a generic OBD reader from Amazon which I no longer have any use for and will be returning 🤣 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FoQA1dTqvRg

In RO, the oil is Castrol Long Life 0W20, code GOIS65577M2EUR VAG Original Ol LL IV FE, while the filter is indeed Mann made, code 06L 115 562 B MANN-FILTER, 3RG I have the same from 3 different dealers, so it should be accurate. Hope it helps.

Have a look at this previous thread from two years ago., also titled "Kamiq spare wheel".

After a long time of procrastination, finally replaced spark plugs and coils, which I went for RL upgraded ones. Quick run of a few kms just to check, no issues so far. One less thing to do ... next in the line is the very-posponed Haldex screen clean.

I was today in the garage and measured my 118cm, which are actually like 124 considering the end caps. So I assume for a 135 you are looking at 140 overall width, which seems too much, so it is as djfish has shown above ... somewhere in between.

I've seen this on older Audis as well ...not an isolated phenomenon, it seems.

Hello, Here are a few thoughts after 60,000 kilometres, for anyone thinking of buying an Octavia 4. I bought a second-hand car (Octavia 4 estate, TDI 150 hp (110 kW), DSG). It had almost all the features I was looking for. The car had clocked up almost 60,000 kilometres over four years when I bought it. It’s safe and economical to drive (3.7 l/100 at 110 km/h on the motorway and in low/medium mountain terrain, 4.2 at 120). I like the car for its practical features and its comfort. In short, the best car I’ve ever owned. I drive between 20,000 and 30,000 km a year. I did, however, experience a few niggles: - the infotainment system was completely buggy in 1810, until I applied the updates found on this forum; - airbag and oil sensors (fault codes cleared at the dealership); - DSG gearbox making a cracking noise when shifting to P in very hot weather (resolved with recall 37VQ); - battery died after 6 months (it was 4 years old); - A ‘POP’ sound near the wing mirror pillar, causing an error that resolves itself on the next start-up; - A dried-up water droplet just in front of the front-facing camera. The dried residue sometimes triggers an error when the sun shines on it, blocking the adaptive cruise control: an error that resolves itself on the next start-up; - the boot does not open automatically when activated with the key (a problem that is apparently well-known here). The front tyres (Michelin CC2) were replaced at 60,000 km; I plan to replace the rear ones at around 110–120,000 km. So, despite these minor issues, it’s a reliable model, and economical on fuel and tyres.

You can try giving it a good charge. Found with mine that it soon came back on again after charging as it had lost capacity. Is it the original battery? Mine was about 5 years old i think. Once i replaced mine the problem went away. A few years later it did come on again on the way home doing the same journey around early January this year but i havent seen it on again since. It does seem to reset once the ignition has been power cycled. Once i realised how the charging circuit works on these cars i changed driving style a bit. Most of the time its only charging when in gear and you lift right off the accelerator, so coasting in gear. So i tend to do more of that these days. It will charge at other times without doing that, depending what the BMS decides. I monitored battery voltage with a meter plugged into the cigarette lighter socket, made it obvious then how the charging worked (and if it was!)

Hello, I have the same problem with my Octavia mk4 1.5tsi e-tec. otherwise I'm very pleased with the car but the suspension drives me crazy! Very floaty when cornering and over slow undulations, but very very stiff and and harsh over sharp imperfections (potholes, manholes covers...). I have 205/55 R17 tires, so not very low profile. I tried with lower tyre pressure but no noticable difference. I replaced OEM shocks on the rear axle with Bilstein B4, but again not a noticable difference. all VW cars on the same platform I drowe have noticable better ride quality! I came from Ford Focus Mk4 and the susspenion was way way better even with R18 rims on focus. Anyone found any solution or expirience same think?

Trying to find the ''correct'' wheel for this car is a pain.... The one the dealer's are quoting on is part number 65860101. It's not a full size wheel but it's not classed as a space saver either. Only want it to stick in the boot as a spare.., Don't trust the tyre sealer stuff that is supplied with the car.

House is rented so Heat Pump setup it is. No solar or batteries which would be good. Perhaps he would be allowed to have one or two plug in solar systems when there legal in a few weeks but probably I would wait until Easter to do that.

Not to those who already embrass the renewables move but also those in some places, brother lives one the birder between Essex, Cambs and Suffolk border. Like others on Briskoda there is no gas in his village and fortunately when his house wax biult they decided to go to Heat Pump tech rather tgan dirty heatjng oil. His saving thru the winter will be very significant, probably more than £20 each month in the depths of winter ie over £100 in Q4 to Q1 next year. The VAT drop on electricity so 8p per KWh becomes 7.6 p per KWh brings in virtually level with gas so fas will be my energy of choice to heat water. I will be looking to switch which energy source I most use from gas to electricity due to the VAT cut on electricity so not the £45 saving kn average household, it would be more like £60 all things being equal but my switch to choosing to use electricity to geat water rather than fas j reckon will mean more like a hundred pound a year less paid in VAT so quite significant now I am a retired person.