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sorry mine is an AUQ 1.8T engine

I hope the good folks at Briskoda can help me get this straight, once and for all. Cos getting my head around the PCV valve/breather hose/inlet manifold set-up is driving me nuts. So much conflicting info and diagrams (not on this forum so much) has made me realise the OCC route makes sense. I've got an oil leak and have been trying to sort it out. Rocker cover gasket change= still got a leak. The two mechanics I know are being really evasive (i.e; too ****in complicated for them). So I'm currently replacing a the breather hoses. I was intending to just replace the sections one by one, to avoid mistakes, but a lot of my system has been bodged badly, and some pipes just go to fresh air!Anyways I've got as far as the 'T' and, as we all know,this area tends to disintegrate and is difficult to access. I don't really know what the clump of pipes under the dipstick plate are; I'm currently trying to get the plate out! I have found the end of the breather pipe that goes in above the dipstick / oil filter area (into the manifold) is just falling out. But I've also found there's another valve in the pipe at that point. That makes three valves! One on the 'T', one near the air filter (hockey puck) and now this one. Something strange here. No wonder my oil filler cap blows rather than sucks. Does anyone know how to fit the rigid plastic bend piece that should be in this oil filter hole? Are three valves found normally? Most info I've read suggests two. And I haven't even got to the 'other' branch of the 'T' section. There's two great threads on briskoda covering this- but they're old and if I were to ask there, I'll probably get no answer since they're 2013 or something. And they don't cover the issues I'm bumbling my way through, like removing the dipstick plate, orientation of the two 'green' valves, and why my oil filler blows (Negative crankcase ventilation, if you like). I intend to keep my VRS for at least another year and a daft oil leak is not gonna beat me.This is probably the reason the boost is poor, economy of fuel is down and the leak itself. Thanks people

Guys Just got a Karoq 1.5 tsi DSG. I'm new to VAG and this is my 1st auto box. Trying to understand how box works in stop start traffic. In my manual cars, I would often release clutch pedal and let car trickle along at idle speed. If I do this with the DSG box, will the clutches be fully engaged like in the manual car? Don't want to find that the clutches are slipping to allow this, would hat to damage box. I know they disengage when stopped with foot brake on. Cheers. Love the car, btw.

I would like to try to download an upgrade. Mainly after radio stations logos but from my research it needs to be done manually? Mib1 Octavia 2015. Update in general would be amazing.

What exactly do you need from me? Just link to download 0490?

I only have experience of the 2013 era 3pot 60bhp mpi engine, and even that’s 5yrs ago already 🙈 I know the newer ones got the 1litre tsi. Which missus mac has in her Arona. Would I describe either as wheezy? Maybe. I always described The mpi on a full throttle as a very happy buzz. And it could shift (relatively speaking 🤣) enough to be a fun chuckable little running shoe. The tsi in the Arona is 115bhp, think it was 90 in the citigo? It’s grand, pokey, but always feels like it’s working a harder than it should need to to push on down the road. I dunno if that makes sense. the one your looking at could have a small leak, or it could just be the engine sound if your not used to it 🤷🏻‍♂️

I have a 2017 Octavia with Amundensen MIB2, during a sat nav route, it stopped displaying and had message to insert a media SD navigation card. I have tried with an updated card, but the system doesn't recognise the SD card.

I cant pm you. Im stuck on 0435 can you help please?

I went London - Gdansk last year and what I learnt. Wheel must be quickly accesible in the boot. Not under floor and luggage. Good to have thick playwood (on the soft surface when jack is sinking) When sticker says 3 bar under heavy load pump it to 3 bar kokosal. Dont be affraid the tyre will blow. The worst is overheating sidewall at low pressure 2 bar and then blow. Torch or LED lamp on the legs is must have. I bought normal factory alu wheel and same size tyre fo 60 pounds and another steel for 40 pounds. New tyre 205/55 16 was 60 pounds. buy normal size wheel.

Hi all! I am aiming to fit cruise control to my 58 plate prefacelift, I have acquired the stalks, a BCM (though the numbers on my current one match so I hope I won't need it), I've enabled it on the ECU, but I need help sourcing a loom if anyone can drop a link to the correct one to purchase, and if anyone is able to provide some help with the wiring as I can't seem to find reliable diagrams or instructions! Thanks!

Probably one for the likes of @mac11irl here but... I've been looking at and test driving a 2017 Citigo Colour for my daughter. It looks to be in decent condition apart from the off scrape of paint in the boot and a couple. It needs a couple of front tyres and two wheels tidying a little but one concern I have is that it almost sounds a little wheezy with an open throttle, as if there is a slight intake leak somewhere but I cant find it if there is. Is that normal? And is there anything else I should be looking out for - eg what is the cambelt change interval? Cheers

Not a small job by any stretch, subframe off, exhaust off, DPF, EGR , turbo all off, charge cooler off. Not something I’d like to be paying for I’ll be honest My only concern is this “seam”, not sure if this normal or not, aside from that look good.

I have codes 00050000, 0060300, 0060800, 0060900, 0030000, 0060100, all of them Temporarily Rejected. Missed a leading zero off of some of them

When stuck in a never ending spiral, it can never reach an end…

Probably SKODA delaer has just removed Component Protection but has not recovered FEC/SWaP codes. Go to service menu (long press MENU button, then go to FEC/SWaP codes and installed codes. Check if there are any that are Valid.

I can’t believe this thread is still going!

135/80 17

It is simple but needs some time for the very first time. Drums should be prohibited in passenger cars. It is bunch of problems. Especially grease leak and simmering quality.

What profile tyre is fitted?

I wish I had rang them for their advice, I went with the 17" wheel and the circumference is way smaller than my 17" wheels. I will definitely only be putting it on the rear.

A restart may be all you need. Also try tapping on the HOME button and then swiping left or right to the view you want. Nav full screen should be available by tapping the NAV button.

ok its getting night tomorrow morning i m starting again THANK YOU!!

I will look at this next time thanks, price considered.

Quick update, oil change completed. Easy enough job just the undertray a bit fiddly needing 4 different tools to remove. I went with Castrol EDGE 0W-20 LL IV Advanced Full Synthetic Engine Oil in the end. Thanks for all the replies and if your thinking of having a go at it yourself.....do it.

Are both cables are too short now and you cannot catch nuts on the thread even if hanbrake is maximum down in zero positon? If cables seems too short now you need to push back self adjusters up with pliers or screwdriver. It will relase more cable to the cabin and you be able to put nuts on the thread.|You dont need to remove drums. You can do it with screwdriver through the lug bolt hole but it is tricki for the first time.