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I've had two generations of Bose Quiet Comfort for many more years than I can remember and been really pleased with their comfort and performance. The current Bluetooth capable ones make using them easier and have impressive range.

It's probably less wear than on a manual clutch because the car is doing it not the driver,

Oh dear, does that cause damage or is it engineered to withstand it?

The transmission will be slipping the clutch - there is no extra low gear for 'creeping'

I would suggest taking a good look at the switch and the starter solenoid, very likely to let you down in the future.

I have, but wanted to get it running first! 😆

Have you considered fitting hood gas struts to that lovely beast?

Thank you guys! I've got a small update. It turned out to be uncleaned battery leads. After brushing the clamps with some sandpaper the car starts reliably now. There is a occasional hiccup at the start position though. I turn the key, hear constant buzzing when holding the key at the START (not the ignition prime) and nothing else happens. It's so rare that I won't bother for now

Morning all. Have a new issue I thought I would run by you to see if anybody has had similar.... 2021 Enyaq 60 with 110k miles. Have recently had starting a 'clicking' noise when moving away from a standing start and then when breaking. Almost sounds like a relay opening/closing. Strangely enough, if you pull away VERY slowly, it does not do it. Car is at the dealer for a number of issues but, on this one (no diag done by 5 on Monday but completed by 11 yesterday), it has been declared as a major job requiring 10 hours of labour to power down, remove gearbox and carry out repair. All very vague at the moment and have asked for a breakdown of parts required. Quote for the repair is £3,300 !!! My initial enquiry is whether anybody has had similar please?? If this needs to be done, then so be it, but a bit miffed that a 4 year old car with (relatively) not high mileage, requires an expensive repair like this !! Will add to my post if/when I get an update of requirements.... Thanks in advance, Paul

Can you say if the car is slipping clutches while creeping or is there an ultra low gear in operation as I seem to recall reading of? Going back to the dealer Monday for a further run through of the settings. When I asked about some settings last week he would say: " Oh don't bother about that, I never use it" or "that will come up automatically" (it didn't, it has to be set with a tick.) I need to know if features such as emergency braking are turned on. I don't want to find out the hard way. I suspect he didn't know the answers. Thanks again.

Diagnosed as pressure sensor at dealer, £310 to supply and fit.

Had to spend a bit of time cleaning up bearing socket on my sons. Especially the grooves it clicks into due to corosion. Fairly easy to do with the correct puller. Couldnt get ABS sensor out without destroying it. Give it a good soak with penetrating oil for a day or two and you will hopefully be lucky. Alasdair

The heat pump is £1150 or thereabouts for a small increase in overall efficiency. Maybe 10-15 miles extra range in winter? £1000 buys a hell of a lot of electricity, so the heat pump is poor value.

Maybe check engine bay fuse box for loose contacts/corosion/relays and all earth points you can find. as the wiring is new and so is valve. Alasdair

Odd it does it at cold start. Wonder if its a poor connection somewhere thats bad when cold and when warm it expands making better contact or perhaps cranking cold engine is dropping voltage too low and causing errors. Check battery voltage when cold cranking? Hope you get to the bottom of it Alasdair

Finally, it lives. First start and test drive complete no obvious leaks and its does feel better to drive. Something we both noticed was previously the engine was hunting and canting back and forth a bit, that’s all gone as is an odd noise it was making. I feel like that could well have been the head lifting and gasses escaping so something to look out for. First drive and everything was working getting heat in the cabin and all seems well. Left it at the shed last night on the 4 post to just confirm no leaks but all being well it’ll be back on the road and with luck all my issues will be resolved and I shall close out the thread at that point. IMG_9100.mov

Just for laughs, the "horned headrest" can double as an impromptu hat-holder 😄

Sorry I missed this .... the blanket, when properly folded, can fit with the right height, right under the central armrest in the rear seat, which in my car is always in the "down" position. In summer, when not really needed, I put it under the vario floor - it tucks perfectly there.

Hi Alasdair, Honestly, I am not sure whether they cloned the old ECU or flashed it from scratch with default factory software. What I do know is that they performed programing. Regarding the code: since picking up the car from the dealership, I have cleared the fault code twice using OBDeleven. Both times it cleared fine, but as soon as the engine cools down and sits for a while, the exact same static code (P25AB00) persistently comes right back on the next cold start. So whatever data or software condition is causing this, it keeps triggering the fault continuously.

Hi everyone, Can anyone point me to the exact physical location of the Piston Cooling Oil Control Valve (N522) on the 2.0 TSI engine (280 hp)? The VAG part number for the valve is 06K115243L. I know it's located somewhere on the engine block near the oil pump module, but is it accessible from the top, or do I need to drop the undertray and get to it from underneath (front side of the block facing the radiator)? A photo/description of where to look would be hugely appreciated!

Id be keen to check for any vacuum leaks and / or boost leaks. I would look at my fuel trims for an indicator of this and then smoke test various systems for a leak. Running some live data on fuel trims, high pressure fuel pump and low pressure pump values would be good to see whilst running / driving. Be good to see hpfp / rail values after a drive to see if injectors are leaking at all. Are there any misfires or other codes coming up on a scan?

Hi has anyone changed a brake master cylinder i am about to attempt it on my 2011 1.2 tsi any advice is welcome

Senny over-the-ear is at the very least a safe bet and it is the one I'd go for. B&W do a very nice headphone too, as do some of the Grado models. Personally, I've been using Senny domestically and professionally for 40 years and have no complaints. Open-back is probably a better sound (but they do bleed audio both ways a little), but in the real world, closed over-ear is probably best. If you want top noise cancelling, then Bose and Sony are pretty much leaders, although Sennheiser and B&W aren't too far behind. I've a set of mid-range Sennys I use for outdoor work and an old Bose QuietComfort for aircraft settings. Both sound good, but more modern headphones are better. Is noise-cancelling a priority? Also, there is latency with Bluetooth if he is a musician, so if low latency is important. I'd recommend a headphone that can support APTX Adaptive or LL (low latency-an almost extinct variant, sadly). I'm thinking that if he wants to strut around wearing his 'cans' using Bluetooth, then you can buy a cheap APTX Bluetooth transmitter (Class 1 - cheap as chips on Amazon) and get headphones with 'APTX Adaptive', so he should have 40ms or possibly less delay. APTX is a codec that is both popular and of good quality.

Just to close the loop on this. I changed front discs and pads and gave everything a really good clean and lube up and it’s been over 200 miles on the new brakes and everything is silky smooth.

Haven’t done an awful lot with it, but getting ready to sell it and don’t want to offload it to some poor bugger and get my windows put through! Had it’s timing checked, two full tanks of premium fuel through which seemed to tone it down a bit, but it’s come back again even with premium fuel. Full set of spark plugs, new coil packs, full service and new PCV breather. Going back into the garage in a few weeks for a vacuum check. Sorry for delayed reply, 12 hour night shifts.