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I’ve seen that in Lidl before I’ll try and pick some up asap only problem I have is I need to be doing it very soon ideally before the winter bites. I had a quick look just now my exhaust is in exceptional condition barely any rust maybe it was replaced somewhere along the line so I will only have to coat this and not much removal work on heavy rust. The sub frame and arms however do look pretty rusty so I will take them back and zinc prime. Just a question are the zinc products coloured or clear what does the finish look like.

I still cannot see an induction intake issue causing the symptoms you described in your first post - in my opinion, you need to be looking at what is causing the bad mis-fires when you do get the engine to run, but only by using higher revs. A first move should be to get the coil packs on a test rig.

Has anybody one here actually bought and installed one of the Chinese “remanufactured” rear differentials that are all over Ebay and, if you have, what’s your experience of it? The prices seem too good to be true, considering it includes the full Haldex unit and I’m wondering what sort of quality they actually are. I know some OEM versions were actually built in a Chinese plant but it’s hard to believe this may be the source of them. All of the ads claim they have sold some but I’ve yet to find actual feedback from one of those sales. Thanks.

I have 10mm Eibach, see how they look on standard DCC setup. And yes, I had to buy the longer bolts, and you should too.

Replace it but not with one from Aliexpress although the part code or the picture look OK. Open the ignition switch and spray some Contact Cleaner (No Oil edition).

Had a problem with my 2025 karoqs infotainment system about 2 months into ownership from new. The car was at the dealers for about a week, apparently the part required was one of only two in the country and needed setting up to my particular car. Sorry, Im no technophobe so cant elaborate on it but its not something you want or expect on a new car. From memory I think the dealership said it would have cost me about £ 1200 if not under warranty.

Forgot to say, there doesn't appear to be a top screw in the small hole. Bottom screw is there and turns.

Most recent one I have used is SIMONIZ Zinc Primer Spray Paint, Weld-Through Metal Primer, but I got it at <£8 per 500ml can, not £11-£13 it seems to be sold for. Having said that, if you wait long enough, you can get several cans of zinc-alu spray from Lidl when they run it as weekly special. By far lowest cost option and good enough for everything except exhaust. For the exhaust, I have one from Wurth that is rated to 400deg C, but you need trade account with Wurth to buy it. Any pure zinc primer that explicitly says it withstands 400degC is good for exhaust, there are some on ebay, there used to be excellent Normfest Galva 97 at ECP, but nowadays stupidly expensive, so best do a search on Internet, just make sure it is rated to 400degC. You could coat cold parts with cellulose lacquer after zincing them up, that extends longevity of zinc coating quite a bit. I have a towbar box mounting plate protected in this manner. However, when the coating is damaged, you would need to sand it down and reaplly zinc / lacquer. For me, it is far simpler to just keep the bare zinc and reapply where needed every couple years. For longest lasting protection, you can put 1 layer of pure zinc and then zinc-alu on top. Zinc-alu is more resistant to wear but does not stop salt spray corrossion anywhere near as well as pure zinc.

Mine is booked in for a Service and MOT next week, service is part of the plan from the dealer, so will see how that goes. Then fingers crossed no issue's I will be fitting the wheel spacers and performance replacement top to the air box etc

@travs so from re-reading your first reply post to my question, did you use standard bolts for the 11mm spacers?

I understand that a Skoda Fabia Mk4 bought new in Israel will have a 2-year warranty and (presumably) that warranty's terms and conditions will be similar to those of the UK warranty that includes this exclusion. Damage caused by industrial pollution, climate, external heat, chemicals or mechanical force. It seems much more likely (to me) that 'fading' of the black trim surrounding the window switches will have resulted from a fault in the trim's plastic material rather than from Israel's climate, but Yogev's Skoda dealership might argue the opposite and not support an under-warranty replacement. Having looked, not too closely, at the plastic trim around my 2024 Fabia's switches, I think the trim+switches should not be too difficult to remove. (That's just based on there being a small slot in the lower edge of the front part of the trim behind the door handle.) Realistically, a new replacement trim will only be available from Skoda and the chances are small of finding a secondhand trim from a smashed-up Fabia Mk4. This link relates to black trim restorers and may be of interest https://www.carmagazine.co.uk/car-advice/maintenance/the-best-black-trim-restorer-to-freshen-up-tired-plastics/ As Evolution3 mentioned earlier, it would be worth Yogev asking a Skoda dealership what the cost of a new trim would be (It would almost certainly need to be ordered). If a new trim is fairly inexpensive (and the 'fading' really annoys Yogev), a replacement could be fitted: or, if the cost is high, Yogev could try a trim restorer - though they can be pricey.

This sounds a million times better that laying underneath the car all day with a grinder. What is the zinc product you use please and where can I buy it. Also is that all you coat it with just zinc nothing after? I’m not really fussed if it looks pretty under there as long as it’s preserved and I don’t have to worry about it. My cills seem solid but those pinch points are my worry as moisture gets in between the layers and eats away but I guess if I can get the flakes off and zinc coat it I’m hoping it wi be ok.

its been suggested that the issue is with the " intake runner flap motor (V157) is mounted on the front‑right side of the lower intake manifold, facing the radiator. It’s a black oval actuator with a 6‑pin connector, sitting low and forward, tucked under the upper plenum easy to miss unless you look down the front of the engine." as far as i can understand it controls the internal intake manifold flap. I have searched for the actuator descibed, but i cant find anything mounted to the lower intake manifold. has anyone done this before with the black ABS plastic manifold, does the lower manifold need to be removed completely & if so are there any instructions available to do that

I bought one of the custom printed chargers that a forum member was making back in 2022. My car had just gone back to the lease company so I’m looking to sell it on if anyone is interested.

Only the Forward Collision Warning sensitivity can be turned down (Low or Late, not sure which is the wording used by Skoda). This setting is saved between ignition cycles No. Stop with the engine running. AEB requests a deceleration, so with an automatic gearbox this implies the gearbox will downshift to match the vehicle speed. In a vehicle with manual gearbox, the signal for Brake/Deceleration Request from AEB might be used by the engine ECU as a "Torque cut-off" signal, to supress the engine trying to increase the speed, thus adding additional stress on the drivetrain* Most likely, yes. If vehicles use the same platform (Octavia and Golf), there might be small changes to each AEB configuration (tuning parameters), but don't expect major differences in behavior * Not sure if you read the manual, but there are ways to abort a wrong AEB intervention, either by pressing hard on the acceleratior pedal or by a sharp turn of the steering wheel (depends on the scenario, which option is more suitable).

If you're interested in changing the tyre to a smaller size, keep in mind that the ADAS systems might use the wheel circumference as an input to calculate the vehicle speed. While a 3.5% difference doesn't seem that much, it might be too much of a difference for the systems to compensate it. Then you'll end up with weird behavior when driving, due to the wrong vehicle speed calculations A way to avoid this would be to code the new wheel circumference to the vehicle, but this implies a dealer visit, which might refuse to do it (since it's not a size homologated for your vehicle) Below you can see a comparison between the homologated sizes for the RS

On an old car that has not been garaged, you will find that the original coating falls off from most suspension parts without much brushing, you just lift it and it falls off, at least here in Herts that's the case. Winter salt plus constant humidity strip away coatings. On exhaust, I usually use a tough cloth (a cut off leg of old jeans trousers) to take off rust growths, then zinc the whole thing up. If more rust grows in some places, it'l get taken off and recoated next time. It is also a driveway job for me. Does not look as pretty as uniform paint, but does the job. My Roomster still has original exhaust after 14 years outside...

From what I’ve seen posted in this forum and the Facebook group, issues with the infotainment system are mostly to do with connecting to the MySkoda App, a recent issue with repeated update messages which is now resolved and moans about the Sat Nav - in the 30 months I’ve had my Karoq I’ve had no issues with infotainment system apart from the update messages, the Sat Nav is really good I use it all the time. After the initial 3 year free period expires there is a yearly subscription to get map updates and traffic info. 1.0 TSI seems to be a good engine no reports of issues from owners unlike the 1.5 TSI. If over 3 yrs old buy the Skoda All-in-one 2 yr service plan to get the Skoda 2yr warranty which is included.

Travall Dog Guard from a 2013 Skoda Superb Estate. I bought it new last October and the car was written off in June, so hardly used and as new. I’ve got a Kodiaq now and it won’t fit so hopefully someone here can benefit. We’re in North Wales, might be able to post it but no idea what the cost will be. I’ve not done enough posts yet to PM but if anyone is interested we can WhatsApp or something. £50

All Season 3PMSF (Three Peak Mountain Snowflake) tyres might be all that is needed if you do not require FULL SNOW Tyres. Plenty All-Seasons suitable for use in Snow or pisted or non pisted roads and even if Snow Chains are needed. @Mariosti The ABS / TPMS / TC will not give a monkeys if there are different widths or circumference of tyres fitted. Reset the TPMS. But you are intending changing the Diameter / Circumference. Maybe just fit narrower treads / sidewall to sidewall if cost is an issue. Set your Winter Tyre speed warning on the car if Winter / Snow Tyres are fitted.

If the tire size is not specified in the car's official papers (e.g. Certificate of Conformity), just don't use that size - there are plenty of reasons for that. BTW - if you're looking for a winter setup, why are you searching for All Season tires?

Those that have the 1.0 TSI all seem to be happy enough with them. I bought the 1.5 simply because the difference in fuel consumption was so small. So it made sense to me to go for the more powerful option, given the size of the car. How old is the car & is it a Skoda dealership? If it's outside the original three year warranty then I'd say buying from an approved dealer is essential. While I'm not aware of any specific infotainment issues, there are a number of others that really need to be covered. But that probably applies to most modern cars, given the complexity of the electronics & reliance on software combined, with manufacturer cost cutting. An example being LED lights which should easily outlast the life of the car. But Skoda have managed to produce LED indicators built into the headlight, that cost around £1k to replace. My car was new in June 25 & in December, the speed limit detection stopped working properly. Here we are nine months later & they're still unable to fix it.

in August I had 4 times P0299- Underboost. Car goes to limp mode with Error: Drive System. Turning car off and on deletes the message and car drives normally after that.I did 1000km after the last error with no problem . I asked VW workshop to do diagnostics and they said that its a actuator broken and that I need new turbo as only actuator cant be replaced. I logged live data in CarScanner Pro for Turbo position with variable geometry request and actual and there are no differences. Did anyone have that problem and did you had to change whole turbo( Prices is insane they are asking for 4000 euros)

Thanks!

Welcome to the forum. Do they have a trained EV technician? Was that just the Pyro Fuse that was changed then? The Electrician needs to be Speaking to another Electrician that is trained on working with EV,s I suspect.