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See this guide. It’s excellent. Only thing I found missing was where you have to rename one file in the root folder to get the autorun to activate. But the instructions for this are in the readme with the software. Heed the advice RE battery charger. Make sure battery is fully charged before starting and on a good quality charger throughout. I found out the hard way!

I haven't waited till Xmas. Elroq VRS ordered. Roll on April.

Welcome to the forum. Fob uses a single 2025 or 2032, 3 Volt button cell. The 2032 has a larger mAHr capacity and is a little deeper in cross-section than the 2025. Older fobs used the 2025 - but it was often possible to squeeze a 2032 in.

Thanks for your reply. I will go ahead and buy it then.

Just to entertain you all , this issue with the MK2 Fabia HP1.9TDI is all down to a soggy starter motor ! Not used this car much this year but in the summer all was well , now I have the same issue again , whenever the car is left for a period of time say 10 days or more , in damp conditions , we tend to experience in Oct/Nov, the issue of slow turnover and or sparking sound coming from under the bonnet when turning the ignition to start the car returns . I guess i need to swap cars or move to a hotter country :)

Hello, Liqui Moly Ceratec is only a engine oil additive only, It does not go in the gearbox dsg oil at all and are two completely separate systems. I think they put that disclaimer to make sure its not to be used in the wrong place. To confirm can be used in cars with a DSG box but its not gearbox additive in any shape. So you add it to the oil you minus some engine oil 300ml and add a bottle of ceratac to prevent over filling, That how we have used it.

The CTEK worked wonders for me. The Recond mode gave my battery a completely new lease of life

Hello folks, I am planning to add ceratec engine additive with the engine oil during my next service. But, can I use the additive with Octavia 2.0 tdi mk3 which has a wet clutch? I was confused because Liqui moly website says that the additive is not suitable for wet clutch systems 1) Is the additive only not suitable with dsg gear oil and can be added to engine oil? 2) Is the additive not suitable even to engine oil with wet clutch dsg? 3) Does the engine oil come in contact with wet clutch or gear system? Please let me know if anyone has experience regarding this. Thanks!

Sorry to hear of your belated issue and I have just scan read the responses but not sure if you have tried to buy a secondhand car privately in the last ten years but there seems to be a lot of unscrupulous people around that offload cars/vans like yours with a serious engine issues. Even heard of a guy who bought a van that had been patched up structural members with cardboard and then painted! Selling to a dealer and being upfront is the honorable thing to do although the buy my car companies are criminal in what they offer punters so I would have offloaded to them if at all possible :)

I see that many of them are not working good, so i think i’m gonna leave it like it is. Maybe i just buy the memory switch for start/stop so i dont have to push the button 😉

What a great design and well implemented using the existing diffuser and fasteners! If I didn’t have the Rieger diffuser to go on I’d certainly be in the market for a set. Currently ~£83 posted to the UK. Will keep an eye on these should I change my mind on the Rieger. I’d be keen to hear how they hold up long term. Thanks for highlighting them.

AliExpress, good Look That you finde one which good Work

Can anyone tell me the key fob battery number for my 24 reg kamiq

Hello, 2014vrs tsi, 130000km, got new, always cared for and just got a p0078 code. Idl RPM jumps from 900 to 2000 Anybody already got this code? I hope it is not to expensive

Ok, now i understand. So i would have to go to somebody who could modify the dataset. What do you think about KLR Emulator for MQB steering wheel? You get the mainboard and just switch it with the original one under the airbag ob steering wheel 🫣😅

Coming back to this because threads that hang around are, well, annoying. So I bought an electric Megane. It's not a hot hatch but it's surprisingly nimble on a back road (as much as a GTE anyway) and as well appointed inside. It's a far nicer cabin than an ID3. A Cupra Born was nice but that infotainment ruins it all. The Renault's cabin feels five years ahead of the VW Group's. I'm surprised how capable and balanced the chassis is. It's no Renaultsport product- it's not even close to VW Golf GTI or Skoda Octavia VRS- but there is some fun in there. Shame it never got a sporty version; I genuinely think it would have had merit.

@Admin I posted in the wrong section Can you move it to octavia mk3

Where did you find and downloaded the firmware 1941?

Hi all , 2008 Fabia 1.4 tdi Coming home from work noticed I had a headlight out . 60 miles to get home so decided to change it with a spare . No luck , headlight still out . Then noticed the park light was also out . Getting suspicious had a look at rear & found the opposite rear lights also out . Indicators , brake , fog & front spot lights still working . Nearside headlight , park light & opposite rear tail light working . So in summary , drivers side headlight , park light & passenger side rear light out . Got home , checked all fuses , all good . Got thinking it must be related to the headlight switch ( 18 years old now so hopefully that ) , so have ordered a new pattern switch arriving tomorrow . However , knowing my luck it won't be that simple , so was wondering if anyone had any other ideas please .

With regard to the cooling mods they vary from nothing required on the 2.0 TSI through a grill without blanking between the fins on some models to an additional cooling fan and the grill. The towing prep is the cable for the electrical socket for the trailer lights and totally unrelated to the cooling mods. The most important thing with any towbar fitted to a Karoq is the coding for thd CANBUS system. Much of the CANBUS system is now behind a security wall and many dealers are not willing to do changes. Karoqs built before 2024 can be coded successfully, as can 2024 Karoqs, for 2025 & 2026 Karoqs it is less clear. There are towbar fitters who will suggest a bypass relay. This might be acceptable for a towbar for use as a bike carrier mounting although parking sensors will still be active and may well detract the bike, but for actual towing will cause issues.

Hello, 2014vrs tsi, 130000km and just got a p0078 code. Idl RPM jumps from 900 to 2000 Anybody already got this code? From my app torq, it could be the MAF sensor or throttle position sensor. I hope it is not to expensive

I know the ideal solution is a second set of rims, winter tyres and chains but we live in north Nottinghamshire so the ideal solution is overkill. We don’t work so they would be more an emergency get us home than travel 100 miles. Anyone any experience of them?

Was looking at 2/3 year old 220d estates before we found the deal on the superb. A used merc was less than a full price superb but about the same as we paid. What is frightening about the merc is the potential for engine issues, there is a series of videos on Dave’s Auto Centre You Tube channel about trying to fix an oil leak on a 2.0 diesel sprinter - ends up with engine out to do it.

Just wanted to thank everyone who supplied answers here. I've got a '22 Enyaq iV 60 and I was having huge problems with Octopus intelligent Go and an Ohme epod 7kW charger - immediate charging fine, but smart charging failed every time. The car never seemed to wake up for the smart charging times in the middle of the night, although the first smart session which charged for a few minutes on plug-in would work OK. Software version on my car was 3.8, but it was updated before I bought it. I went through the process described here, pulling out fuse 3 for a few minutes - I think I went for 10 minutes - and then replacing. I'm sure I heard an extra 'clunk' at about 6 minutes. Anyway, end result was that it now charges perfectly on smart charging, waking up in the night to charge with no problem. So thank you! that's why forums are great.

It would NOT drive up the ramps, conjunction of dragging brakes and the slope made some GREAT clutch smells. The absolute limit of the jack's reach was enough to wedge a ramp under the front right wheel which gave me just enough room to go investigating. I won't bore you with a whole blog about it, but deblocker xs, a set of punches, and an air hammer were all ultimately successful, but I still feel beaten up. The problem ultimately was a bound up joint in the gear linkage which has been the case since this lump was delivered to me, around page two of this thread my neighbour punished the gear linkage into shifting which is what i think first cracked this bound up weak link, but it's finally gone full bluetooth: I think https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/187384471604 will get us back on the road, but I'll try and get the existing parts apart before I order, in case I need to raid a breaker for a less rotten example. There's also this option which might be a better choice? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/vika/13157945#selector-shift-rod At least I know what the problem has always been, the root of today's oopsie, and ultimately will have a refreshed gear shifter which should feel like brand new. It does feel like everything is between me and this truck working, but this is actually the hobby I wanted, I may actually be SAD when this thing is 'fixed'