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I had a similar episode, took the tyre to a nearby tyre depot they took the tyre off the rim gave it a wipe around and fitted a new valve and inflated it no charge (slack day) no further trouble. There is of course the possibility that some twisted soul let the tyre down out of malevolence.

No further trouble with alarm, roof blinds were gaffer-taped together for a while. Now fixed a little better, but still a bit bodgily with hotmelt glue fixing the four magnets in their correct orientation. Front two shown here: This has had the extremely welcome bonus of eliminating a very irritating buzzing/rattling that seems to have been the result of these magnets being loose under their plastic rivet fasteners. This has made me very happy.

@Alasdair1 I checked it now and it is around the range you mentioned. It is around 12.3 and 14.5 when running. I read a lot of comments that also the ABS sensor causes this issue, but what I noticed it, I could be wrong but when I use the rear wiper washer, or when wash the car or a lot of rain. I removed the rear cover to find a little leak which was fixed, but still the problem persisted. I already had the ECU changed 6 months ago. I ordered the ABS sensors and I will change to see what happens.

Has anyone got or had a Scala (or Kamiq) with the factory sound system upgrade? I’m particularly looking for information/photos of the subwoofer/spare wheel/tool arrangement if anyone has that information please.

190tdi SE L executive. 2016. Don’t think they were standard on them. Perhaps more the petrol models.

I find it odd why yours as standard didn’t have the flappy paddles.

Very nice, enjoy!

Lucky you, when I removed the bearings from my 2011 Audi S4, I started with air hammering the 4 screws, then clamped the bearing pack with a suitable big 10.9 grade bolt, washers and nut to keep everything together, then used a hub press plate - that worked nicely! Quite a bit of the aluminium upright in that area was badly corroded and some came out with/on the bearing assembly!

Good solution which probably works better in the US, Australia etc thanks the cramped roads of Europe but might work for trunk operations like my old company did from Morocco thru Spain and France. Might work for 20 foot container trailers better than 40 foot or High cube 40 foots. 30 mpg for a truck is an operators dream.

This seems to be the way (This is the Way). Use different models incluidng this Chinese one in the vid below. Waymo is a Google company. Some yjousands of imports into the US despite the over 100% Ad Valorem tariff. Arriving in many US cities,as well as London and Tokyo. Thirty Chinese cities have driverless taxis, not Waymo but local brands, as well as projects in Singapore and some ME Gulf states. South China Morning PostChinese robotaxis race Waymo to take driverless cars globalBaidu’s Apollo Go, WeRide and Pony.ai are outnumbering their US counterparts with more projects in various stages of commercialisation.https://waymo.com/waymo-in-uk/

Did you drive all positions to the limit? Control unit have kodiaq Dataset?

yes. or supposed to be

All the high-power Mk3.5 Scouts are DSG, but yeah, it's worth mentioning in case someone hates DSGs.

Hi all, the car is Superb GREENLINE III, Mk2, 104 bhp. While driving for a first time after 3 month break the car went in limp mode with the yellow coil light on. It kept coming up ater restarting and the engine light came up too. Engine is shacky and lacking power. Local mechaninc came to resque and with his diagnostic device he found a fault in the 2nd Injector. He recons fuel doesn't get in to the cylinder and for that reason the car behaves like that. Even though he suggested replacing the faulty injector, I have the feeling it could be some sort of a software issue because immedeately after the fault I had START/STOP ERROR on the dash. Had anyone else encoutered such issue and what was the outcome? It make is even more difficult for me because we are abroad at the moment and we have a short time to reqtify this issue before returning home.

There r 3 modules in total on each headlight - 1x power ballast (at the back) and 2x Light Control Modules (underneath). Pic of the two modules underneath....

Great update ... the dipstick in the press had me in stitches 😁

Unit is from Kodiaq?

@HS1970 some answers you may find in this thread(s) -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/537730-amundsen-mib2-map-updates-20262027/

I’m trying to replace windshield wiper motor and linkage. I’ve identified the problem but I don’t know how to proceed with removing the motor. There doesn’t seem to be enough room to remove the motor. Do I remove the black plating, or is there another easier way to do it? Thank you

Ahhh… I have visited Richmonds in Botley and asked them to sort out a few issues, but so far it’s not been too productive. Dare I ask why you don’t recommend them? Thanks for the advice on the other two places though 👍🏻

This Caddy has been in my ownership for almost nine years. The work that is documented in this thread I hope bears testament to the fact that it has never lacked for attention, and it has had more money spent on it than I would ever admit to my partner, but nonetheless there was still a shocking discovery to be made. Driving in and out of my workshop, up and down a small step / ramp I sometimes heard a noise like sheet metal deforming. More than once I had crawled over and under the pick-up in search of evidence of the source of this noise, but without success. The same noise occurred when I raised it using the scissor lift for the recent gearbox / driveshafts and brakes work, but now I could see dents in the side panels between the B-pillar and the rear wheels. This is not good! Johnny from S&P Autos, who have now changed their name to Martlet Autos, had a look at the Caddy while it was on the lift in my workshop. It was obvious that it was not as rigid as it ought to be, but it was not at all obvious why not. There is a lot of new metal under there, and no sign of tin-worm, so the cause of the flex in the bodywork could not be identified. There were a couple of other jobs I wanted Johnny to do on it before submitting for an MOT test anyway, so we added further investigation of the structural issue to the jobs list. When the appointment at the body shop came around, tactical jacking soon had the area of weakness pin-pointed, and a bit of expert poking unmasked the full horror. The front lower half of the nearside rear wheelarch was not steel. Rust had eaten away the original metal in this area, and rather than repairing it properly the previous owner had put some effort into hiding it instead. The critical area where the wheelarch meets the sill, adjacent to the rear beam mounting, had been patched-over with fibreglass then painted with stonechip to complete the disguise. No wonder the Caddy was trying to fold in half! NSR wheelarch fibreglass bodge I want to stress at this point that I have never sought or received a ‘dodgy’ MOT for this or any other vehicle I have owned, and nor do I blame any of the MOT testers who have passed the Caddy during my ownership for not having spotted this horrendous bodge. Effort had gone into applying and painting the fibreglass so it looked like the surrounding solid bodywork. I can remember when MOT testers routinely used to run a hammer and a magnet over the underbody, which would have shown there was something very wrong, but I do not know of anyone who still does this as a matter of course. Without that this bodge was very hard to detect. This photo was taken once the repair work was underway. Getting back to how it needs to be. Whilst the rear axle was hanging loose and out of the way, the opportunity presented itself to do some work to improve the top spring seats. They certainly look better for it. At the body shop the work that I had done to tidy the hockey stick trims was completed, concluding with some nice gloss black paint. When the rear bed floor repairs were done they were finished-off with a covering of black raptor paint, but the tailgate inner panel had not been painted to match, and this was a good chance to rectify that oversight. The Caddy looked better than it ever has previously, during my ownership at least.

I backed the three screws out until they were only in by about 4 or 5 turns and then thumped the head of each screw with a hammer! As the new bearing came with new screws and I wasn't worried about the threads on either the screws or the old bearing, it was fairly easy.

Are you by any chance related to Rush Limbaugh, Graham?

What’s the point of this post? Are you concerned it’s not WBAC but a scam? Are you unhappy with the valuation?

If you need any service work while under warranty, visit Meadens in Brockenhurst. If you need anything out of warranty, visit VAS Works in Poole. Don’t bother with Snows or Richmond (whichever the one is in Botley).