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A few from this evening.............

Hello. I am writing here to see if anyone could assist me with a situation I am having with my Skoda Octavia Elegance Mk2 from 2008. I recently bought this vehicle and have done some minor mods (installed an aftermarket radio with a camera) but currently I am having a situation where I am unable to get a digital speed read out on my dashboard. I have searched everywhere online and done anything I could find, including using a diagnostic tool to attempt to force it. However no matter what I do when I go to enable anything for the MFD I do not have the MFD data section under Setup. Does anyone know a fix for this? I have only used a Launch Diag tool since I do not have access to a VCDS cable. I presume I have the MaxiDOT since all the videos and my research has led to me finding a similar display but at this point I dont even know anymore. I greatly appreciate any support and information anyone could provide. Thank you!

Did my first bit of servicing on the car today. The forecast was for 0% chance of rain for the duration of the afternoon. It started raining intermittently when I was stuck into the job. 🙄 The oil change was easy enough. Although it would be better if they had a hatch for the sump plug in the undertray, BMW style, instead of having to take the undertray off. And if the oil filter were at the top of the engine, instead of the bottom. And in a housing for accurate torque setting (with my tools) instead of an old school metal cannister type that I tightened as much as I could by hand with my lacklustre hand-grip and fore-arm strength. I tightened the sump plug to 25 NM. And the undertray screws by hand feel to a gentle torque, due to the rusty nature of the clips they screw into. The cabin filter wasn't too bad to change. A torch was handy for getting the cover back on. And I nearly lost one of the slidey retainer clippy-things as I didn't realise that these just fall off, if you're carrying the black L-shaped cabin filter cover around. The old cabin filter looked fairly clean. Which is a good sign of previous maintenance. The air filter. Whoever designed the air filter on these, should hang their head in shame. It's like they gave the design job to the work-experience child that had never changed an air filter themselves. Every other car I've owned has been a 1 to 5 minute job to change the air filter. Thanks to a clip on filter box lid, with the clips being easily accessible. On the 1.4 TDi the lid is screwed on. From the bottom. With 2 screws in the middle of the lid, coming up from the bottom. So the whole air filter box has to be removed from the car to change the filter! It would have been simplicity itself to design it so the screws could be removed from the top. Or to use clips instead. Most of the T20 screw had partially rounded-off heads from previous mechanics. Requiring the use of my son to hold the box whilst I put as much vertical pressure as I could to crack the screws, as well as a spray of penetrating oil. The fuel filter defeated me. Thanks to the air filter taking longer than expected. As well as me not being able to quickly remove the 2 hoses from the fuel filter. There must be some knack to removing these? I will revisit the fuel filter in a few days. I also noticed that the old fuel filter hadn't been clipped into place properly. Not a big deal, as it's not going anywhere. But a minor sign of lazy previous mechanicing. On top of that I discovered that my Launch 919x diagnostics tablet that I bought 3 and half years ago can no longer do service functions, such as resetting the oil change interval or purging the fuel system. It can still read and clear fault codes. I hate paying subscriptions for things like this. So I've ordered a brand new Mucar 829BT tablet (with no subscription and lifetime free updates) from Joybuy for £129.99... The 4 x filters (all Mann) plus a new sump plug cost me £71.80 from GSF. I used about 3.8 litres of oil from my £105 TripleQX 20 litre cannister of VW 507.

There are some decent deals on there at the mo. A few with digidash too. Tbh you really don’t want to discount the hatchback. You lose such a tiny amount of boot space proportionally - it’s still bigger than anything in class; it’s only really the load lip that make a material difference.

@Breezy_Pete Can you PM this new member to get his full vin and find out the paint code? Or should there be a sticker? I can’t remember when they stopped putting them on.

"I am looking for the paint code of my 2020 Škoda Kodiaq. The VIN is TMBLJ6NS3L80******** Vin obscured for privacy protection

Yes thanks for that seem to be able to get the Vika one which apparently is the same as a Felicia.

I decided to finally tackle the "cold weather flap groaning" from behind the infotainment screen with some spray lube, and if I understand correctly the top grille is to be pulled fist back up (back being towards the rear of the car) and then the entire grill backwards, correct? I have trim tools and I usually take care and be patient, but I prefer not to break anything ... I know there was some post made but I can't find it 🤪 Also, some mysterious hand broke or disengaged the central right vent from the control that makes left/right. To access it, it is the panel with the hazard that comes out straight again? I hope I can take it out without removing the dash ....

It’s quite something! I think someone was playing “tick all the boxes” on the configurator and accidentally pressed “buy”! Also missing folding the rear seats from the levers in the boot! Just a shame I can’t afford it otherwise I’d seriously consider chopping mine in for it!

Üdv mindenkinek Az lenne a kérdésem hogy ha kinyitom az ajtókat akkor nem világít a belső világításom.Hogyan és mit kellene megnéznem?Esetleg panel csere a kárpitban felül?Köszönöm a segítséget mindenkinek. Hello everyone. My question is: the interior lights don't come on when I open the doors. What should I check, and how? Could it be that the panel in the overhead trim needs replacing? Thanks to everyone for the help. @Isu1977 Kérjük, vedd figyelembe, hogy a Briskodán az angol az alapértelmezett nyelv. Hozzászólás írásakor kérjük, használj fordítóeszközt. Megértésedet köszönjük. Please be aware that English id the default language on Briskoda. Please use a translation tool when posting. Thank you for your understanding.

that is fantastic it's good all the goodies! you need to add only the sleep package and the rear shades and i think it's got everything! very rare to see a fully loaded car ... nice find!

You mean after two years? 😁😄 My 2cents' worth: many many many years ago I bought at an auto shop for few banknotes a spring "compressor", basically a long threaded rod and two "jaws" that grip on the spring and then you use a 19mm wrench to tighten to compress, and the opposite to release, said spring. Still have them thrown somewhere in the garage, and every time I need to do something like this, instead of releasing more components unnecessarily, or endanger myself or the car with acrobatic arrangements, I just use the tool ... it requires some creativity sometimes, as positioning must take into consideration the space needed to wrench, but the safety factor is well worth the price in my view. Once compressed, the spring is easy to move in or out of its spot. Don't take risks if you can avoid them 😉

Hi there. My son has had what feels like an almost identical issue with his 2021 1.0TSi Scala (thread at https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/541276-skoda-scala-10-tsi-2023-stiff-gear-change/). It did it for the first time in July (just after the three month warranty expired, of course!) and then did it intermittently over the summer, gradually becoming more regular (but still intermittent). Our local garage replaced the clutch master cylinder two weeks ago and fingers crossed / touch wood / God willing / etc. the issue hasn't occured again since ...

Thanks have sent away for the plug in device from EBay, hopefully just a simple reset as it was before.

An inch is quite something. From what I’ve seen online and played with on mine you can see and feel the torsional tension adjusting and relaxing when the suspension is loaded. You think that’s raising the ride height though?

VW Part code 115794220 Febi Bilstein 08883 and as last resort VIKA 88450117101

Hi I already posted on this subject. I'm being treated as though I don't know anything by the dealer, not a Skoda dealer because my car was a trade in.... So mine has the intermittent fault causing loss of power then temporary limp mode. I got the car in June and it has happened 3 times since and I lost confidence in the car, it is not just a nuisance it's dangerous! The power just disappears when you are at a junction where you have to cross oncoming cars....then you have to deal with limp mode! Seems that some think that when you turn off the ignition and the fault disappears that's fine. I do not! It's the fact that you are vulnerable due to the fact is that it can occur anytime....not a good thought when you are doing 50/70mph! The car is with the dealer now, the service manager inferred that my driving could be at fault and causing it! I still have a little hope that this will be resolved....if they can't fix it , by law I am entitled to a replacement....which I guess is the best outcome. However I wanted the car I bought... Best stop waffling. I've already heard from a few others with their experiences but I would appreciate some more. Thanks 👍🏻

Hi all. Looking for a rear window seal for my 1994. Currently drawing a blank if anyone has any ideas. Many thanks

Üdv mindenkinek Az lenne a kérdésem hogy ha kinyitom az ajtókat akkor nem világít a belső világításom.Hogyan és mit kellene megnéznem?Esetleg panel csere a kárpitban felül?Köszönöm a segítséget mindenkinek.

I'd suspect a sticky bearing first.

Along with browsing Rightmove for houses I can’t afford, I like to have a look at Autotrader and fantasise about what spec I would have for a superb. I think I might have just found the perfect one: 280PS, estate, l&k, dcc, 9.2” screen, canton, pan roof, heated windscreen, heat and cool seats, 3 zone climate, rear seat heating, assistance camera without being too new to be intrusive, removable towbar, petrol blue, heated steering wheel, high line reverse camera, blind spot detection, auxiliary heater. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202610146991152?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios-app Only things I can think of to enhance it: dcc slider mod, 30 colour ambient lights, virtual cockpit.

Data needles

How ?

Hi, looking for wiring diagram for heater/blower motor for 2005 Octavia estate mkii with dual climate control The blower motor has started playing up and only works intermittently. Thanks in advance

Posting this because I couldn't find either of these anywhere when I needed them — hopefully saves someone else the legwork. 1. Genuine wire-colour reference (confirmed on a 2016 Superb Mk3, liftback, LHD) This is the actual colour-to-pin mapping from a genuine Škoda pre-wired 13-pin harness, confirmed by physical function testing on the car: Pin Wire colour Function 1 Black/white Left indicator 2 Grey/white Rear fog light 3 Brown Ground (return 1–8) 4 Black/green Right indicator 5 Grey/blue Right tail/marker 6 Black/red Brake/stop light 7 Purple/black Left tail/marker 8 Blue/black Reverse light 9 Red/yellow Permanent +12V 10 Black Switched +12V 11 Brown Ground (pin 10) 12 — Vacant (CAN/trailer detection, unused) 13 Brown Ground (pin 9) Worth flagging: genuine wire colours are not standardised across different towbar kit brands or even Škoda model years — this is specific to this harness/car, not a universal chart. If it doesn't match yours exactly, that's expected, not a fault. 2. Trailer module coding fix — wrong-side indicators + missing tail light + brake triggering indicator Fitted a brand-new genuine trailer control module (5H0 907 383C, Hella, dataset EV_TrailFunctGener3Hella) with the harness above. On first test: only one tail light worked, indicators worked but on the wrong side, and the brake circuit triggered indicator-like behaviour. Fix: OBDeleven → Control Units → 69 Trailer Control → Long coding. The module shipped with byte 0 = 02. Changed to byte 0 = 01, saved, power-cycled ignition. All three symptoms resolved. Full working coding string: 01 00 00 02 02 00 14 00 (02 appears to correspond to a non-EU/NA-pattern regional default on a factory-fresh module; 01 is correct for this EU-spec car. No forum post I found had byte 0 confirmed for this exact symptom set — posting it now so it's out there.) Happy to answer questions if this helps anyone in the same spot.