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Continuing on with my initial review of our new Superb: ADAS. It works but I can now understand why folk may get alarmed by it. On the M90 heading north to Pitlochry I thought I would see how the lane centring worked. I thought having autonomous cruise (ACC) activated was correct but I was wrong. As a result the car thought I was checking-out of Planet Earth and threw up its hazards while simultaneously slowing down in the outside lane. I eventually realised what was happening and that a proper tug on the steering wheel is needed to persuade the car that I am still very much alive and kicking! Simply having a hand on the wheel isn't sufficient, not at this late stage anyway. I should have been using the Travel Assist function. Oops! Well, we know it works should I ever check-out for real. Passengers can rest easy. The other event was reversing into a parking bay with some overgrown bushes behind us, these having encroached onto the air space above the parking bay but low enough to catch the tailgate. The car applied its brakes, and then some. That works too then! And I am grateful because it stopped me catching the undergrowth. Having said this, the car happily allows me to reverse onto our driveway very tightly positioned alongside our beech hedge with only the sonic beeping. So that's good. I agree that the definition of the camera is pretty basic. It is acceptable but a bit cheap. Shame that. Minor gripe. On the open road the Travel Assist is excellent, including stop-start traffic heading south across the Queenferry Bridge, over the Forth of Firth during rush hour. The only thing is that I find the autohold a bit eager and grabby. So, I have disabled that and the car now behaves like a traditional automatic in that you lift your foot from the brake and it moves forward. The car still holds on hills to stop you tolling backwards which is where we really want it. I have added the quick icon for autohold to the swipe down menu from the infotainment screen - it means that I can activate it by the touch of a virtual button if circumstances and my foot feel the need. I am not yet sure if I will stick with the assisted braking before roundabouts and bends in the road. It seems fine but I will see how it goes. The autonomous cruise is excellent - by watching the gap closing on the driver's display and indicating to move out before our car attempts to slow to match the speed of the car in front, cruise will maintain the preferred speed or, if you move out a little too late, pick up the speed in a natural way. Same as it passes through different speed limits. By and large the reading of the road signs seem good but it did think that the 50mph restriction across the Queensferry Bridge continued when in fact the 70mph limit was shown on the overhead gantry. There is a lot to learn here but it is promising and I will persevere because eventually it will become second nature, the sweet spot. But I can now understand why some folk on here have lost patience with the workings of the ADAS. It is really useful but there is a need to take time to understand it, make the correct settings and be patient. I was worried after reading all the horror stories on the forum but so far there is a lot to like. As an aside, I do love the infotainment screen and how you can customise the swipe down icons, the bottom row and the on-screen tiles. Honestly though, without ChatGPT helping me through all of this it would have taken ages and some features I might never have discovered. For example, the ambient configurable cabin lighting was set to maximum brightness and it was only because ChatGPT told me that this was adjustable from the on-screen slider from the swipe down top of the screen, that I found it! I have also turned off the band of light across the front dashboard because that just annoys me when night driving. We have kept the doors, the door bin illumination, the footwells and the compartment for the phone charger lit. I thought the colours would follow the spectrum shown in the slide bar but in reality the changes are not gradual but sudden and the colours are not as deep and rich as I had hoped. In the end though I have learned that the joy of a car is derived from how it drives and not the ambient cabin lighting, the latter being a novelty that wanes after a few weeks. I hope some of this information may prove helpful for others because there sure are many settings and variations one can make to the car. I find my joy increases when the car is configured to my preferences and the process also helps me learn how to navigate through it all, or most of it. By the way, accessing Android Auto was easy from my Samsung S25+ and we have linked the car to our home WiFi network so she is hooked up while parked on our driveway. Music playback through Android Auto, sourced from the excellent Poweramp app, is good. I cannot detect any loss of quality between a wireless connection and the USB cable option. ChatGPT is suggesting that, for music playback, the car is using wireless rather than Bluetooth but, whatever it sounds the same to me. That said, the playback quality from the USB thumbdrive library, with it's CD ripped lossless flac files, is on another level. The same tracks, listened side by side on an A:B test, are much more engaging from the USB drive. That's today's update then. Hope you are having a good Thursday. Best wishes.

Just a thought... I wonder if there is a limit on the number of concurrent bluetooth device connections that car can support. If there is and, for example, you have your phone connected it may see the media player but not be able to connect to it. I mention this because I spent ages trying to get my My NextBase dashcam to connect to the app whilst in the car. Eventually, I worked out that It does connect fine, provided I disconnect from CarPlay 🙄

Hi @enoktakenokta OTA vehicle updates are restricted in Turkiye because of national regulations, so the 'normal' method of updating is not possible. I did some research with AI and it suggests you can maybe download the raw data files from the VAG update portal and them install them in the car with a USB-C stick. You could try asking ChatGPT or Google AI for help if you want more information. But that still might not work. Can you try your nearest Skoda dealer (or even Audi/VW dealer since it is the same technology) and ask them for help? This must be a common problem in your country, so they must have a standard way to load the updates. Or they could show you how to do it yourself. Good luck. Let us know if you get this fixed.

I've been back to Caffyns and had a long chat with their warranty manager. He agrees what has happened and that it's rust from the inside and that it is covered by the warranty and has shown me Skoda's internal repair schedule for claims such as this which even stipulates wheel arch liners have to be retro fitted. However, he has also shown my the reply to the warranty claim which shows it was Skoda that rejected the claim and they gave zero reason so that's Skoda lying to me saying the dealership made the decision. He is now contacting them again. What an absolute shambles.

I'd also be interested in this. I'll keep an eye out for your ebay link. I've had the volume bar unplugged all summer which of course stopped the problem. I plugged it back in today to take it to the Skoda garage, and they of course have to do a software update (for £200) before even considering any other repairs/replacements. No doubt as soon as the hot weather starts up again the problem will come back, and then I'll have a go at replacing the touch panel. Meanwhile Skoda are up £200...

My troubleshooting has identified rubbing in the exact same area. I’m going to see if the seals can be replaced.

Hi ya all.. I have a Skoda Superb 2023 3V539Z and it is an Ambition, witch has a softer suspention than Style. I want to make it more sutable for heavier loading, used as a taxi (best car for that use) and being able to withhold pushup traler to be attachet to the towbar without beeing at safety point in maximising the travel of suspention. What can I do to make it more sutable for that kind of abusement?

Thought I'd update this thread with some new, but unfortunately, disappointing information. I've just taken delivery of a Bluetooth v4.1 MP3 player with high hopes this would solve my dilemma. Head unit picks the device up, device picks the head unit up. But they fail to pair (either way), with the error message "Incorrect PIN or Passkey" A Google search reveals this appears to be a relatively common connectivity issue and provided several device resets and hacks which should resolve the fault. Unfortunately none of them did. Looks like I'll have to suffer in silence.

New chargers going in @ Dowhill Farm & Country Fayre between Turnberry and Girvan. KA26 9LP. there is already a DC and 2 AC chargers there which are 55 pence a kWh at present.

Hi everyone, I was tagged into this thread, so I’d like to share an update regarding some issues with my car. First of all, in my case, there were two different types of rattling sounds coming from the front left door. The first one, as I mentioned in my previous post, was fixed by adjusting the door striker slightly outward (which made the door fit a bit looser against the car body). Unfortunately, after a few days, a second type of strange noise appeared and started to drive me crazy. It’s a completely different sound. Interestingly, when I cleaned the door recess, the noise temporarily disappeared. The same thing happened after a car wash – as long as the flocked seals were wet, it was quiet. Once they dried, the sound came back. I tried applying a silicone-based lubricant, but only to the rubber seals, as silicone shouldn't be used on flocked ones – which, obviously, didn't solve the problem either. After days of troubleshooting, I finally found the root cause. Please take a look at the attached photos. I placed a strip of stretch film inside the driver's door recess, and the noise completely stopped. I’ve been driving like this for three weeks now, and it’s been perfectly quiet. My theory is that the flocked seal rubs against the car body when the chassis flexes, creating that annoying sound. In my opinion, the first fix actually caused this second problem. Because the door is no longer pressed tightly against the recess, the flocked seals have room to move. When the chassis flexes, they rub against the car body and produce that sound. If they were compressed tighter, they wouldn't shift and make noise. I’m dropping my Kodiaq off at the dealership on Monday for a few days. I’ve already spoken with the mechanic, and they are going to try adjusting the door striker further inward to see if that solves the issue without bringing back the original noise. They also mentioned that they could replace the seals if necessary, so we’ll see. One final note: I did some research and found a water-based lubricant from BMW (see attached photo) that should be safe for flocked seals. However, that’s my plan B. I want the service team to try adjusting the striker or finding a permanent mechanical solution first.

New chargers going in. Between Turnberry and Girvan @ Dowhill Farm and Country Fayre. KA26 9JP. Already there is a DC charger and 2 AC, and it has been cheap at 55 pence a kWh, maybe not for much longer.

Afternoon and hope all well , looking to treat ourselves to new vrs octavia, looking at the spec on new skodas available some have 2026my and sone 2027my ... any one know if there is much difference, thanks

Could still be a wheel bearing on its way out. Sons was grumbling away but no play in bearing at all. When I compared the old to new the old one it was a bit tighter to turn. Does it change when turning left to right etc. Alasdair

OTA does not work in my country, it is not supported. So, i have to do update manually. I do not have online package. There is no base on my car. I cannot connect to internet.

Hi I have just got a Skoda Yeti for the Mrs. First impression's are good expect plenty of questions from me over the coming months

When the disc is hot does the wheel turn freely. If its stiff or binding try crack open bleed nipple and retighten. If it spins freely afterwards it may be trapped hydraulic pressure so there may be a problem between caliper and ABS unit or ABS itself thats acting like a non return valve. Alasdair

Yes sounds about right 👍🏻

It is a Tiptronic then. I assume a 1.6 petrol.

Um... It's a 6 speed. No flappy paddles but can use the gearstick as a sequential shifter. So I guess so. Never had the box serviced whilst we've had it. I have wondered about the box myself but the noise doesn't change if I shift to Neutral whilst rolling, so I thought maybe not? 🤔

SKODA Superb 3 L&K 2022 Car Factory 5F Unit: 3V0035816G When you Patch with USB CP Off & Fec's aktiv., IT Only works Maximum with Firmware 0332. You also lose all online things of the Unit

I thought I had H but in an 03/2021-registered car. From Gemini: In the Volkswagen Auto Group (VAG) part numbering ecosystem, the single- or double-letter suffixes at the end of a part number indicate hardware revisions, production year updates, or software advancements. [1] For the 3V0035816 MIB3 navigation head unit, the most common suffix variations found across Skoda models include: Common Suffix Variations No Suffix (3V0035816): The base or initial release variant of the MIB3 High/Columbus system, typically found on early facelift models around late 2019 to mid-2020. [1, 2] Suffix A & B (3V0035816A / 3V0035816B): Early revision updates introduced during the 2020–2021 production cycle. [1, 2] Suffix D (3V0035816D): A highly common revision introduced around late 2021. It is frequently seen as a factory standard in the 2021–2022 Skoda Kodiaq and Superb. [1, 2] Suffix E & H (3V0035816E / 3V0035816H): Mid-generation hardware updates that include factory fixes for early MIB3 software stability issues. [1] Suffix K (3V0035816K): A later generation variant (often 2022–2023+ models) heavily used across the compact line, including the Skoda Kamiq, Scala, and Octavia IV. [1] Suffix N (3V0035816N): A later revision version variant, sometimes associated with specific component manufacturers (like Joynext instead of Preh/Harman). [1] What do these differences mean for you? Component Protection: No matter which suffix variation you find, VAG units feature Component Protection. If you swap one into your car, it will remain locked (no sound or disabled menus) until it is programmed and unlocked via official Skoda ODIS software linked to the factory server. [1] Backward Compatibility: Generally, a unit with a newer suffix (e.g., changing from a base unit to a D or K variant) can replace an older unit, provided it is coded properly to match your vehicle's specific layout (such as screen size or sound amplifier type). [1, 2] Hope that helps. Cairus knows what he's talking about though!

I did! Turns out it was a rubbish charger! And/or my car was already quite low on charge!

Pg 8 of my how-to-guide says to make sure the car is connected to a battery charger prior to commencing with the firmware install!! Anyways, all the best with the final few steps and that it successfully completes.

I've never had a good result from them, either waiting ages for them to despatch something that's "in stock", or where I've paid for a brand name part and they've still sent me the random chinese brand.

On my track record, that's good to know!