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You can see part numbers in the photo post higher up this thread. Only thing it won’t have is the cables. But you may be able to get just the cables from Ali express.

Where I said that? I pointed out quite clearly what's wrong with your post, are you ignoring that on purpose? The point you are trying to make is nowhere to be found in "your" posts. Or are you trying to say that what you posted isn't whatever AI spat out and an actual informed human wrote and fact-checked that? Because it's wrong anyway. Also another point, swapping the engine with a different type is illegal in CZ.

2116 Skoda Fabia 1.2 tsi GLS My analogue Speedometer not showing correctly. When digital speedometer show 30 the analogue show approximately half that speed Any help would be greatly appreciated Smudger

Check your PMs

Hello Pab567, can you send me the link in PM? Thank you

They can fail of course but LEDs usually have a long life. As Derek says it's impractical to replace at the roadside and can even be difficult at home due to gaining access.

So my car is currently built but awaiting part which I assume is linked to below https://aroundprague.cz/en/news/economy/skoda-auto-cuts-factory-shifts-after-strikes-on-its-ukrainian-supplier

£1500 located in Leeds For sale is our family car, known as 'Bobby' to our kids. We have owned the car for around 9 years and it's been my wife's daily. Good bits: Lots of service history, maintained regardless of cost with invoices. Major work include: 5 months MOT with no advisories. New timing belt and water pump in March. New Clutch recently including brake fluid. Turbo replaced at 105k. Front arms and tracking done a few years ago Serviced every year Recent service including new caliper New radiator fitted the last year including coolant Had a new A/C condenser and this system is serviced yearly Stage 1 map Dpf deleted Head unit upgraded including a kenwood sub under driver's seat Extra sound proofing fitted from Noise Killer solutions in Oldham New battery last year Not so good: Some age related bodywork Sills have surface rust. Skoda should of used sill protection higher up! These have never been raised on any MOT. Small hole in drivers sill from an impact not rust. Doesn't seem a big repair and I've photographed so you can see. It's about 2-3cm. Quoted £160 to fix so this is reflected in price Boot lid corrosion. Caused by failing rear wiper mechanism now replaced and all works as it should. Number plate bulbs all work. Tyres are good brand but coming to end of life. The car drives exceptionally well maintained regardless of cost! Even my mechanic comments on how well it drives. £1500 is a great price considering New Clutch, New Timing Belt & Water Pump, and Replaced Turbo.

Thanks for that, missed the reply to this. I am not fussed in having the Carplay in the arm rest just so it has charging ability so this should work then.. Unless anyone has the Skoda part numbers for this, as I would like Skoda to get this on my behalf due to the issues I had with them

Thanks - I'll be sure to mention these things to the garage tomorrow

That's good news. So according to you worht to buy a cheaper 40Kw engine and then pay to make it 50Kw? I not, the ''AI nonsense" not so let's collect different opinions from members for the best result.

Have you checked if the brake calipers move properly? Sounds like something's dragging and causing vibrations. Once you touch brakes, everything settles and noise disappears.

Cold, grey and a little misty at the Res this morning although there was considerable excitement over the sighting of a grey phalarope! I didn't have my camera with me🤦‍♂️ Not a bird I'd heard of although I was told it's not a common sight in the UK?

OMG! I think we have a winning reply! Perhaps a careless omission from my initial post, but the WAS a hot smell coming from the car the first time I noticed the low fuel consumption. I thought it was a brake binding, and the hot smell didn't repeat for my home journey after that one instance, despite still having that 20-something MPG on that return journey, so I thought it was a red herring and didn't mention it. My goodness! That would explain why there were no fault codes and the garage found nothing. I think you have nailed it! 🏆

@D.FYLAKTOS Please, do not just copy&paste AI nonsense here, it'll just scrub here again and reinforce bad information and will be even more inaccurate. Anyone can ask LLM themselves, no need to do it for them and spread misinformation. Pistons raise CR from 9.5 to 10. Not that big of a difference and it may be possible to reach through head skimming. The biggest difference is valve timing and ignition timing. The ECU is tuned for 91RON fuel, so it has milder advance settings. The valves have narrower timing because of the fuel, too. There may be different head, but not ignition volume, but rather different cross section of inlet ports - though this changed so much throughout the production that I'm not sure if it's difference between the two variants. Also, one difference not related to the engine - the 40kW has FASTER gearbox - in fact, as tall as the 1.6. 50kW is 250/500RPM faster on 5th gear (pre-facelift/facelift), to increase torque on wheels. There's another potential issue - around 1997 MY, there was change in camshaft bearing size, which also affected timing chain sprockets. So you'll need to check which variant you have and find correct donor, if you proceed with swap.

Hi Mark. All four sticking at once, only after a few minutes of braking, and freeing off once it has cooled down, points at the master cylinder not letting fluid back to the reservoir rather than at the calipers. Four calipers don't all seize at the same time, and the timing (straight after the master cylinder job) is a strong clue. How it works: when you let the pedal go, the piston in the master cylinder returns fully and uncovers a small return port to the reservoir. If the piston is held even slightly forward, that port stays covered. As the fluid warms up from braking it expands, has nowhere to go, and pushes all four brakes on. Leave it a few minutes, it cools and contracts, and everything is fine again. That matches what you're describing. Things I'd ask the garage to check tomorrow: 1. Pedal return. With the engine off, make sure the pedal comes all the way back to its stop and isn't being held by the brake light switch, the trim or the carpet. If the brake lights stay faintly on or flicker with your foot off, the pedal isn't fully home. 2. Servo pushrod to master cylinder clearance. If the new master cylinder sits differently on the servo, or the pushrod is now pressing on the piston with no free play, you get exactly this. There should be a small amount of free play before the piston starts moving. 3. The part itself. Is it the correct master cylinder for the vRS, and is it new or reconditioned? A wrong-spec or faulty unit with a sticking piston can do the same thing. 4. Fluid. Make sure it was topped up with the correct DOT 4 type and nothing else went in. A useful test if it happens again with the garage: when it's stuck, safely crack a bleed nipple open. If fluid spurts out under pressure and that wheel frees straight away, the pressure is being held upstream (master cylinder or servo side), which confirms it. Please don't keep driving it like this, as dragging brakes overheat quickly and can fade. Hope it's an easy fix, let us know what they find.

Admittedly that helps with one of the issues, Steve. Although Google maps (I use carplay most of the time) does also show the junction in the left dial but without the surrounding context. It's more the annoyance than anything of all these little issues combined.

I agree with battery check as well as earths etc. Anything under 12.2V may be too low as during cranking can drop below threshold for electronics. It could be a completely dead ABS sensor or broken wires to one. If the ECU detects no connection it may ping up those errors. If the battery is good and earths are good I would get it scanned with vcds to see if it can pick up something the garage scanners cant. Also check the brake light is working. Alasdair

In the end I went for Audio-Technica M50xBT. they were well reviews and he didn’t need the noise reduction. He's happy with them so that's a win. Got them as returns on Amazon warehouse for a bit of a discount. they were missing a cable but they coughed for a replacement.

Lucky he doesn’t have warning stickers on the back of his van. Sorry for the sh*tshiw @Stunts - hopefully you get something and back on the road quickly

Mine in December of the same year (31st, missed out on being 2021 registered by one day lol)

Just a thought, it could be the GPF regeneration. It happened to me after several days of slowish journeys. I even called the RAC out thinking there was a fuel leak. Never happened again.

Thanks for the explanation

Yes. The portal ones are for people who choose not to subscribe to online map updates and are free twice a year. Traditional for Skoda and VW. The online connected services ones are monthly. You got the October one there 26.10. It would be a down grade if you managed to get that June one installed. It wont let you downgrade. People do periodically loose the ability to get the over the air in car updates for whatever reason. Outside Europe connect service are not rolled out so like the old days map updates can only be done via USB if the car is enabled for them. Another story. In the current economic climate some people discontinue their connect services contract but with the app integration of all things between phone and car, penny pinching they loose the ability to do those extra things remotely like turn on the heating in an EV etc. Firmware updates are distributed free whether you have a connected service contract or not but you must be logged into the car as the primary user for that to take place. Then it informs you that there is one to install.

So I have the latest update even before the one on the Skoda portal?