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There are a couple of results from the latest trip to the body shop which I neglected to draw attention to in the last update, one of which was a conscious choice while the other was unexpected. I have never liked how the ‘hockey stick’ trims extend across the B-pillar. When I bought this Caddy these trims had been unceremoniously curtailed at their front ends, which caused some problems with water ingress to the load area, but was one of the previous owner’s visual mods which I did not hate. Replacing these trims was an opportunity to do a better job along the same lines, and I had Martlet Autos cut and chamfer the front edges to follow the line of the cab back. In my opinion it looks like they are supposed to be like that, which is a positive sign. The unintended outcome from the work to the rear spring top seats is that the rear ride height is now much higher. I need to get the back end up in the air again to make sure that the springs are seated correctly (there are no untoward noises to suggest otherwise), and if they are then I need to look again at lowering springs. I still have the springs I bought when I rebuilt the rear suspension, so it will be a little effort no cost job to swap them over.

They are great cars and a refresh will make a massive difference, just tightens everything back up, they handle really well generally and I cannot say mine feels anything like yours, mine feels really well connected and predictable and as I say my bushes are not in fantastic condition!

Cheers, I love the car and it's in near mint condition but the handling is making me want to start looking for something else. I'll have a look at getting these bits changed first. Thanks again.

Got Bridgestone tyres on front and the ones on the back are 4 year old Cooper tyres, but do have about 80% tread. They have got some cracking to the outer edges though. I noticed the change to the handling before I changed the tyres, but I think you are right that it won't be helping matters. Cheers for the advice, I suppose it's getting to the age where these things need doing now, despite the mileage.

Question for those who have standard ambient lights (it doesn't matter if 10 or 30 variations): do Your footwells change the color too? In my car, which has ambient light standard (it's a 1.5 Style, equivalent to a SEL), according to the infotainemnt screen footwells change color BUT in reality they keep on staying white! Instead, if anybody replaced with those RGB, can please tell me the part numbers and if I need other parts?

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A couple of days ago, I had a new update for the Shop application. This new update seems to have changed the version number and since then I've not had any new requests for "application updates" so far.... The new shop application version is: 3.15.1-336.321 Previously I had the update repeatedly for: 3.15.1-334.320 Fingers crossed this is the update that fixes this issue.... Gabbo

Good shout thanks Seat Ateca spec

Does yours gave the spring loaded metal/plastic flap inside pipe. On my sons MK1 it looks like there is a plastic insert and flap which narrows pipe so only petrol nozzles fit. Alasdair

Hi did you sort out the problem

Agree - if you want weaker tyres to let go, you want the fronts rather than the rears. I'd put money on the rear ARB if there's a twisting effect. As Occy says, get something a little stiffer and get new rear droplinks too to make sure you cover off those as well.

Thanks.....you were spot on....turns out to be 2022 model on 23 plate

There is Virtual Cockpit, which was a cost option on mine (MY21). Some time later I recall that all models were to get a limited functionality version (Digital Instrument?). I can get the layout you're talking about on mine, perhaps the one you looked at had the regular digital dash. That said I don't know much about post facelift models, but do remember some discussion about the differences between the two dashes.

Make & Model: Skoda Karoq 2.0 TDI - 4x4, manual, SE-L trim level Colour: Blue Mileage: 114,930 - (please note I drive many miles per week, so this will increase). Price: £7750 (negotiable in person) - The car is also listen on AutoTrader if you would like to see more pictures and also a picture with the history of the car. Description: Used car, with some marks outside, like stone - chips, all wheels are touched but not kerb- I think from car washing, everything works as it should, stone chips, small scuffs and scratches, definitely not a perfect car, but one that was vell cared for, with the majority being motorway miles. I am the 2nd owner. The car is currently financed; I can clear the finance in the presence of the new buyer. The V5 logbook is in my name. Road Tax is £200 per year, and I can provide digital service history from purchase to present upon request. Tyres were changed less than 6 months with Continental All Season Tyres. Includes 2 keys, a spare wheel, and all standard equipment. The car has a full tank of AdBlue and currently over 3/4 of a tank of diesel. Condition: Used Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: 9 Oil changes from the car was produced till present, invoice for cam belt done and also haldex oil changed. Extras: SE-L trim level which is coming with VarioFlex seats, heated front seats, heated steering wheel, rear - camera, front/back parking sensors, navigation system integrated plus Android/Apple Car Play Mods: Extra security added on the car. Shipping: Available upon payment of a non-refundable deposit (distance dependent, to be agreed prior to travel). Collection: Yes from Sheffield Pictures: see below Selling due to upgrading to an electric vehicle for my daily commute.

I am repeatedly getting a prompt to perform the same update (Columbus MY21) on almost every journey. It relates to a 'UI overhaul'. If I press Update the screen clears and I see no further messages. If I press More Info I get the info screen from where I can update, and this path results in a message eventually appearing saying the update is complete and will take effect the next time the car is started. Anyone know how to force an update to stick, or otherwise get around this, it's becoming annoying. Many thanks

Thank you for the reply! It is actually the original tank since I bought the car brand new in 2018. There is no tag "Mit Silicat". Now my Skoda is in 70 000km so was checking to pump out all the G13 from system (had done it when car was 4 year and 35000km). And in the search I found out that G12evo is replacing G13 but to replace the expansion tank in case is silica double-walled type. It does not have any silica bag inside, that I have been inspecting carefully. AI engines says that 6Q0 121 407 / A / B was already used on earlier Fabias, long before the later 5Q0... silicate-reservoir issue, Since there is no problem with the tank I was thinking to keep it if is silica and replace later on a damage or leak.

Yeah, that's my plan to take all the wiring, CCN, and connectors from a higher trim Fabia. I'm going to the junkyard next week. My plan is to basically to expose the CCN, and than start from the A pillars and trace back the wires from the blue 6 pin connector (T6o/T6n I believe), and also take a photo of mine so I'll know If there are extra cables I need from the A pillar, like the 2 connections trough the black cable which you have mentioned.

Welcome to the forum. Usually the OEM EV is marked 'Mit Silicat' if they were fitted with the Silicate bag (or later) plastic dispenser. It's possible that EV is not original. If the bag is present, it can usually be seen if a light is shined through the EV wall, especially the double-walled type - the plastic dispenser should be visible by removing the cap and looking at the bottom - I'm not aware of any issues relating to the plastic dispenser type though. To be certain, why not just replace the EV for a new one when you change the coolant to G12evo?

Remember that new tyres should be fitted to the rear of a vehicle. As others have said, a bush that has failed/worn to the extent of causing poor handling will be unlikely to fail an MOT upon visual inspection. Just as creaky @travs

Hi interested to get your friend address

Morning all. Wonder if anyone on here could recommend which replacement electric Boot struts they purchased (non SKODA ones). After 11 years and god know how many openings I Think back right has gone. I can see a few on eBay / Amazon and guess they are probably all made in same China factory but just checking in. Many thanks in advance.

575601025E ?

Since the phone still charges through the USB cable, I wouldn’t assume the USB port itself is completely dead. Charging and CarPlay use different parts of the connection, so it’s possible to have power but no data connection. I’d try a known-good data cable first, preferably an Apple-certified one, and test another iPhone if you can. On the iPhone, also check Settings → General → CarPlay and remove the Superb from the saved cars before reconnecting it. It’s also worth checking that Siri is enabled, since CarPlay depends on it. If another iPhone also refuses to connect by USB, I’d start looking at the car side: the USB data port, infotainment unit or its configuration. Since VCDS isn't showing any related faults, that doesn't necessarily rule out a communication problem. If you normally use a wireless CarPlay adapter/dongle, I’d leave it completely disconnected while troubleshooting and get wired CarPlay working again first. Once the original connection works reliably, add the dongle back into the equation.

What tyres have you put on the front, and what's on the back? If you've got much improved grip on the front, and not so much on the back, that's not going to help. Gaz

Gateway 19 - paco_video_parksystem-RVC_compact_smart Multimedia 5F - adaptation Vehicle function list BAP - VPS_0x0B (activated) Vehicle function list BAP - VPS_0x0V_msg_bus (Can_fas) function_configuration_unit - RVC_video_input (ethernet) parkingsystem_video_input - carrier_resolution (1392x656) 6C 0303A300E73000 {that’s mine) what I found iin 6C that only Brand (Skoda Audi etc.) and equipment_driver_side can bring you error and stop camera working rest either it works or it doesn't but you still got picture I struggled with my camera for few weeks I couldn't solve incorrectly coded module error i tried all coding on the end I had to flash new dataset