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CBZB doesn't have variable valve timing, if that's what you mean by VVT. Garage need to check timing correlation with correct locking tools. You probably can see fault codes in engine ECU if cam timing is far enough wrong relative to crank. Whereabouts are you? What year is the car?

It could do, might do, perhaps will do. But everyone does not all of a sudden have money to sell a vehicle & it needs people looking to buy what they are selling, and people do not all of a sudden have Home or Work place charging to make Buying / Leasing an EV the good choice financially.

CBZB

You do not mention what engine the car has. Did you ever use that fuel that you asked about in other threads, from the petrol / diesel misfueling.?

Total bill was £730.

Coukd mean an absolute clear down of all electric car and van stocks both new and second, even the models not normally selling well. Would / will Trump bring in the export van on diesel fuel like Russia has ? Netherlands still producing significant diesel fuel amounts and many EU countries have other 100 days of supply where UK reported only has about a month's stock if it stops getting diesel to import and its insufficient home refining drops further ! Mail OnlineDiesel price 'could near £3 a litre if Trump brings in US...Drivers across Britain already now pay an average of 197.75p for a litre of diesel - just over a penny away from the 199.09p record set in June 2022, according to the RAC.

Hi Under firm acceleration from lowish revs (1500 – 2500 ish) the car stumbles momentarily a few times. A bit like a 2 stroke "nipping up". It's more than a simple misfire as the car jolts each time. It did this on the drive home from the garage on a Hill and continues to do it. No engine light. Garage has suggested running their diagnostics but of course it won't be under load. Will this even show up on diags. AI seems to think its something wrong during fitting of the VVT or oil tube . Part fitted was ULPTK164AF priced at £164 on ebay which the garage charged at £268. This is a full kit with sprockets and oil pump chain. Your advice please.

Hi I have a 2010 Skoda estate 2.0 auto. It developed a fault a year ago where the battery was draining overnight and after visits to 2 separate garages (costing £900), it was diagnosed as having a faulty drivers seat module/actuator. I finally found one and it was installed yesterday. Unfortunately, the power drain started straight away so its obvious the module was not at fault. When the seat power wasn't connected, there was no power drain. The garage, who are vw/audi/skoda speacialists say that it may require a further 8 hours of investigation costing another £640. What could be causing the power drain? I am close to just selling the car for next to nothing as it is becoming a drain on my finances (excuse the pun) Thanks for any advice

Depends on what pump it is. You used to be able to get pumps recon reasonabley cheaply but cost these days can be as much as a new one. Reckon anything between £200-£800 or above depending on whats wrong. Wonder if as it ran out of diesel did it suck up crud/water and filters are blocked? Some pumps have a fine gauze at fuel inlet. Not sure what car it is or engine but it may have an intank filter as well. Worth checking and replacing all filters first. Alasdair

Was it soot or ash content or both that was 20% Soot gets burned off during regen but ash builds up over time. Next time it happens I would take it out for a decent long run and see how long it takes for it to regen again. With mine its random. Recently after decent run it took over a two weeks to start regen again but if I do short trips it starts regen about every few days until another long run. Check the dpf sensor isnt melted. Read a few reports that on ea288 engines the sensor is prone to heat and can melt/be damaged. Alasdair

Yes everything is missing in that connector, you need something like this https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005009980414262.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.3dc62ec8BrxS2D&algo_pvid=451b1547-3812-4d8b-bb82-cc7e7de662d3&algo_exp_id=451b1547-3812-4d8b-bb82-cc7e7de662d3-6&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%22250%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%2111.99%2111.99%21%21%2113.32%2113.32%21%40210381f017903173815226031e0dfe%2112000050750775247%21sea%21FR%21914286551%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A583a5b7a%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=7ANdsZuFX3Pg&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005009980414262%7C_p_origin_prod%3A

Which vid as read from something else that was published?

I had a feel around in bottom of door but couldn't find anything. I have tried loosening bottom screw eventually to the point where you couldn't pull on handle but barrel not coming out. Tried key in it and pulling no good and tried trying with a screwdriver.

Welcome, You'll find many gruntled Skoda owners here (and a few disgruntled ones). 😉

Firmware Update to 369 then Patch

Skoda dont exist, Only Cross Flash to VW Firmware with Skoda HMI is the Solution

😗

if u can find someone who can do the DCC Slider Mod for you, that will make the suspension perfect!! sadly its not easy to find someone who can do it, globally. firmer/lowering springs alone doesn't do it perfectly as the car can still bottom out. stiffer swaybars help to an extent with keeping the car flatter, but again, not perfect. performing a DCC Re-calibration helps a good deal, but on BIG bumps, it can still bottom out. the DCC Slider Mod on the other hand is a game changer. essentially the DCC module is loaded/flashed with the parameter file (suspension algorithm) from a VW Arteon. no hardware change. after doing this, the car is so so so much more composed over bumpy road, speed humps, corners, potholes and no more bottoming out!! as added bonus, ur DCC settings go to 15 levels, ranging from Comfort+ to Sport+ i had this done a couple of years ago now. i'm also running Eibach Pro-Kit springs, with front & rear swaybars, and i've also done the DCC Re-calibration.

Counting the hours before the handover scehduled tomorrow! 🤩 Having it delivered on not-so-sexy Luter 19" Nordic winter tires, heading for the mountains on Saturday. Will be a nice upgrade from running a classic Audi throughout the summer season.

There should be, lots of stories of people dropping it inside the door.

Undo the top a few turns and then begin undoing the bottom one a little at a time whilst pulling on the lock and it should pop out. I think I had trouble with the online guides because mine was stuck.

Do you recommend a Eichach Pro Kit alongside the B8 bilsteins?

the fault code is C100D13 Says left hand Parking Brake Motor voltage supply - open circuit Wondering if it could be a simple thing such as dirty connector but not sure about disconnecting it as don't want to break the clip on the connector.

We hung around and were fortunate to see a Spitfire, Hurricane and Dakota 1470330~2.mp4

Angle tightening is essential for fasteners that are taken into the plastic region, but far more often it is simply a far more accurate way of tensioning a(ny) bolt compared to torque alone. The impact and variability of friction when tightening only by torque creates wide uncertainty in the achieved pre-tension. Angle tightening is independent of friction because the bolt extension is directly related to thread pitch and the angle used. Smaller torque plus angle gives a far more predictable outcome. So it's just a better way of tightening important fasteners, not a guarantee that the bolt in question is permanently lengthened in each usage.