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My cars in "the rear"

Can you get XL rated tyres for your Yeti? Or maybe tyres intended for SUVs in the correct size for your Yeti? They are usually built with a tougher constructions than tyres intended for cars.

Autogefuhl video review

Skoda Octavia vRS Estate 2020 UK review (autocar.co.uk)

nice one of grey hatch

Today I fitted the mount insert. I went for the red one. Usually it's red for diesels and I have a petrol engine, but I wanted as little vibration as possible and the red is a softer one. There is of course a bit of vibration on tickover which is slightly annoying, but I hope it settles down a bit over time. In reverse as expected, again a bit of vibration, but no worse than on tickover and how often do you drive in reverse anyway! The car also had a sound on start up, which was a lower tone than usual. I took it for a good drive up the road, giving it hard acceleration, holding it at 50mph in 6th gear, even holding it in top gear at 30mph. I found once the car got moving there was no real difference to how it was before the insert was fitted. Will have to try to find an uneven road surface to try to create those bangs underneath the car I had before. Maybe now those bangs are a thing of the past. I will update this thread once I get a few miles on the clock, which of course might be a while with the bare few miles I am doing at the moment due to this bloomin virus.

All, TL;DR Black friday discounts code at bottom. A little over 18years ago an idea formed and so it began. Now 18years is quite a good run... For anyone in the dark, briskoda, turned 18years this year Over the years we seen thousands of members post, read, learn, share. Over all models in the range, united by a common theme, if not always in agreement. Each month now we see millions of visitors, reading the rich trove of knowledge we have here. The community has grown, shunk, grown, and will always eb and flow, much like a river as it finds it's way through the countryside. The rise of social media was, and remains a concern. Many of us believe the forum approach offers more than the immediate here today, gone tomorrow of social media. But we do need you're help to keep it thriving. Post, share, spread the word, every action helps. Talking of action, climate action. Earlier this year I set about covering our ongoing carbon impact. The internet is a huge contributor to the problem, more so than driving this year We've been cabron neutral/negative for the services we host upon and consume for a few months now. I wanted to do more, carbon negative overall? This milestone seemed like a good point to do it. Looking back, it's almost impossible to say how much we've used to provide the community; we don't have a totally accurate record of trips to data centre x or y, so it's the best of british fag packet maths... I've taken what we use today, <1/2 tonne per month, still quite a bit eh? Then multiplied it back over time, then added a bit on; quite a bit on, because all those odd days here there, older it equipment was more power hungry and so on adds up... In numbers we might comprehend, it's around 250'000 miles. To that end I've offset an addititional 180tonnes of CO2 to cover our earlier years, that's 10tonnes per year, and includes some slack for driving to x and y, my laptop being on doing updates to the site at 3 or 4am the odd night... Going forward we'll be covering our continued use, so continuing to be negative, along with the tree planting programme. You can find out more about all this here: I'd like to thank the current team of admins, mods for doing what they do. I'd liek to thank former members of the volunteer force over the last 18years for doing there bit to bring us to where we are today. Thank you to all t hose who through freedom part with your own hard earned cash to support what we do here. Of course all that we do, would be for nothing without you, the community member. I thank you too, for your time, the dedication by many to sharing info and the helping others. Thank you all for being a part of, and in making this community. It's yours, you made it, each post, thread added a leaf to briskoda's tree of life. To think we've seen marriages, babies, life altering advice and support, and so much more, all from connections, people, through these few pages. Quite humbling, thank you. So it's 18years, time for a party? Heck yes. One small pandemic problem in the way. I'm begining to come up with a few ideas for next year, shows, trackday etc where we can get together in one way or another. We've all got many bridges and challenges to cross before then, so stay safe and keep in touch. In lieu of a party, I decided to make some space in the storage. So a 50% off stickers voucher code, and other stuff to clear from the shop. I guess you could say it's a black friday event... https://www.briskoda.net/forums/store/category/3-merchandise/ Discount on stickers other merchandise of 50% - code: 18years Old models t-shirts discoverd in a box - £5 ea to clear. Freedom, great value as ever from £6 per year.

You say you've unplugged the dash cam tonight. Does that mean you usually leave it plugged in? 12v socket is live all the time.

So I now have the first and only Superb MKIII in Australia with a Heated Windscreen!!! I might also look to get a different Climate Control module and sww about coding in the "Heated" feature. But for me, it was all about the heat rejection properties of the Glass. And it has been proven with light guages for a window tint company that the front glass is equielant of a 35% window film and provided 99.9% UV protection. The window was ordered 28th July and only arrived in Australia on the 12th Nov. The fitment and calibration all went well. Love the look!

New here. I’ve ordered one this weekend. Race Blue hatch, DSG, petrol. DCC, winter pack , park assist and a spare wheel. Will be a factory build so looking at end of January. Will be a long 9 week. First Skoda moving from a VW.

What's the mileage of a typical journey you do? I believe the distance of individual journeys is more relevant than annual mileage.

@Channel Have you still not yet had a chance to drive your car in the snow and offroad in snow to see what you can and can not do? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/483787-karoq-in-the-snow http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/483589-karoq-4x4 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/473936-skoda-4x4-system http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/473160-off-road-button

Spring was jammed all the way in, loosened the little screw and it popped itself back out!

Reason I’m going for Latitudes is because I have a fiendish plan for a few jollies to Scandinavia, and a good few days of that will be on gravel roads. COVID allowing that is. I used to do these trips in my old trustie Disco 3, well until the engine died on me 2,000 miles from home and she was sent to make Norwegian Coke cans, 99% of which I can easily do in Skippy. The only concern I have is tyres, I’m not sure the Bridgestones are up to the job from a survival point of view. This is typical of the roads but they can be a lot more “rocky”. I asked around in the D3 community and Latitudes are well recommended, used on Freelanders and Discos, as a good AT (all terrain) tyre, a nice compromise in road manners and off-road ability/durability. I was thinking of using them for winter use but opted for full winters instead, as insisted on by SWMBO. Besides, you can never have enough sets of wheels and tyres. Plus a third set of wheels & tyres is a LOT cheaper than a new Defender.

Set the steering wheel central, look at the driver's side front wheel from in front of the car and make any adjustments to the steering wheel to get that pointing straight ahead, in line with the rear wheel. Drive the car forwards a yard or two without moving the steering wheel. Then take a look at the both front wheels and see how straight they look relative to the rears. For wear that fast I think you'll see a misalignment with mk1 eyeball.

If you had them at 35psi then not an issue there then. Did you set that pressures personally? What tyres did you have on before those tyres, and for how many miles? What were they like when removed?

Here in Germany it is only a requirement for the tyres to have the alpine symbol on. Since we have mild winters then I just went for all season tyres.

Welcome. Nice and so is the car at the rear. A we taste of winter is arriving in the North of the UK this week, but nothing that needs the fitting of studded tyres. Have fun.

Thanks e-Roottoot. I've polished me specs but those photos still look blurry - it's either my whisky or you old phone Are latitudes good for harsh tarmac? Car does not go off road except when the missus sees an oncoming car.

Excessive toe-out is the only thing to do that so fast, hit a kerb hard recently?

So that is pretty crap. They are not crap tyres though. Well not usually So what pressure did you run those at and are the 205/40 R17's? What load and speed rating are those ones?

Proper tarmac, but A-roads round here are single-track with passing places and poorly maintained. Our drive is sharp gravel and we need to do a three-point turn every time to face out. SWMBO does corner rather briskly! Why is Latitude reccomended by two of you? Thanks!

Someone will surely be looking for you having a kind heart and pulling them out of a drift.

She's back! "Debris in coolant", unable to explain or clarify further. Denied presence of silica bag in tank. New matrix, flushed, new expansion tank -£1345. Got a free bottle of coolant though! When I enquired as to why its a bottle of G12evo (vw) and not G13 nice lady told me its all the same. New expansion tank no longer has mit silica on it nor specifies coolant type! Cant wait for the £600 Cam belt change in 3 months.

Pin 1 white to ECU 110 Pin 2 brown to ECU 102 Pin 3 black to ECU 101 (colour change to brown white on the way after merging with another wire)

TeslaBjorn has also identified a fairly repeatable case of phantom braking in Tesla vehicles. On narrower single carriageway roads it get's scared if a large truck is coming the other way. The extra width means the lorry rides closer to the dividing line than a normal oncoming car would, so the tesla gets scared and brakes thinking it's about to get hit. Perhaps this is partly due to the software having been developed & mainly trained on wider US roads, and may improve when they focus more on narrower European roads.

Massage guy was quite pro-surgery on the basis that if the other - now more heavily used - half of the biceps were to have a tendon failure down the line I'd be needing surgery anyway, or my arm would not work well at all. That's swayed me back towards thinking the op may be worthwhile. He also reckoned I might find it quite limiting to be without that 'cep' for my sailing hobby; it might even be a safety concern on the racecourse if something failed while on the water. GP surgery have referred me now on the basis of the physio report. Wonder how long it'll be before I hear from a hospital.

If you are only getting 12000 miles, I would check your tracking and alignment Goodyear efficient grip are for fuel saving, quiet, comfortable ride (Goodyear’s words, not mine). Never going to be a tough tyre for poor roads When you say poor roads, do you mean tarmac, or more a track with loose stones. If stone abrasion is a problem then Michelin Latitude cross is a possible. But of course rugged tyres are never going to be like a high performance tyre for braking. If you are driving on those kind of roads, (where you aren’t going to be doing autobahn speeds) then stay clear of high performance summer tyres and focus on tyre with strength (and winter ability), you want something reliable whatever the weather. As you want good wet performance I will go out on a limb and suggest Hankook Kinergy 4S2

Yes, the whole port there is blanked. I've not ever seen it connected even in the US spec CCTAs.

My experience is that the measurement of the door aperture vs the position of the seat is one of the poorest areas of design with nearly all mainstream manufacturers, particularly relevant is the measurement between the top of the seat squab and the roof line in the door aperture, additionally all manufacturers seem to have pushed forward the rear pillar of front doors with most now removing three door hatch back from their line up. Smacking the side of head as you try to enter the car is unforgivable on a "family" car when you're under 6 foot, it was for this reason I ruled out getting an Audi A3 (last model not the latest version just out). I care little about the obsession with a raised driving position, which leads to a higher centre of gravity raising everything up to accommodate this - worsens handling and fuel economy. However, most hatch backs now have low driving positions low roof lines, the Scala I had as a courtesy car felt like you were falling down into the diver's seat. However, just raising the seat for that SUV experience is not the answer, I found getting into the passenger seat of friend's Volvo XC60 a ridiculous challenge given the size and height of the car, as IMO the seat is way too high up vs the roofline. Given that the Kamiq is significantly cheaper than a lot of standard hatchbacks on the market let alone other crossovers the argument about paying £'000s more is a moot point. This is a much better argument against the Ford Puma - if a sporty ride is you top priority buy a Fiesta ST! I find the Kamiq a perfect companion, easy to get in and out of, a slightly raised driving position in a car with loads of space, good handling, great fuel economy and decent performance. It's refined, quiet, and has great levels of tech as standard, yes it no sports car but that is not what I bought it for.

yes yes it does make sense, i got it, and yes i found 1 2 3 in the other side too, i wil make sure it hass good contact with some contact cleaner and some adjustment, thank you!

Bodie was 9 start of November. Apart from having the sack around his heart drained of fluid when he was 3, he has not been a problem in any way. Had several dogs over the years, all special to me, but this little fella has stolen my heart.

I had a similar occurrence about 2 years ago. I could prove, by receipts where I was but the insurance company would not say where the "accident" happened only that it was nowhere near where I was. Although my insurance company wrote to the third parties insurance company for more details they did not get a reply. It took over 8 months to sort out and near to my insurance renewal date I had to phone my insurance company and after some strong words on my part they agreed to close the case as they had not heard back from the third party. As the car involved was stated as an Octavia it could have been a simple mistake in noting down the registration number. I have had no speeding or parking tickets from another car so I do not think that my plates have been cloned.

Looks fantastic Can I ask what led bulbs you used for the mirrors etc?

No problem. When I started last Monday, it was quite mild here, but by the time I was refitting on Saturday it was a lot colder on the hands and more difficult to work for long periods on the drive! I used a stainless dental pick set I bought of Ebay and it was really very good. I got 95% of contamination off with the picks and scrapers. The thing that also really helped was a workshop vac. I used it dry, and instead I just used it to vacuum out all the debris periodically, as I cleaned valves / ports. To finalise each port clean, I gave one or two goes with Mannol 9873 Intake valve / EGR cleaner. Used sparingly. And wiped out the intake ports and valve stems to clean off some of the remaining contamination. That stuff is potent though. I used less than a can for the whole job. I have two left as I bought 3! You may want to wear a respiratory mask. Or at least limit exposure as I tried to. It evaporates off in pretty quick time but I mopped up with shop rags to get all the remaining sludge out. Need to remember not to work on intake ports that have valves open, rotated engine on 24mm crank bolt to alternate. I stuffed shop rags in everything I left open, like the other ports not being cleaned, injector holes, intake pipework. As I tend to drop screws and bolts and tools and one mistake makes a lot of dismantle time or worse, if you don't notice!!

It's not a large foot rest as such but I find the lip to be ok for me!

I have 2 code readers a wireless car Dr one which I bought for an old yaris, and this ancel one I just bought, both heads looked the same but the car dr one did not fit so assumed the ancel would not fit either, but it went straight in easily this am. Wot a knob I am. This showed the following error codes; 12600 - imrc control difference 01287 - idle control, idle variance 00369 - fuel trim bank 1- system to lean. I always run the car on 97/99 octane fuel and wandered could this be the issue. . Thx Garry

Cheers. My m8 owns a proper reader I'll try his garage. Thanks again

Well I'm a Redex convert now! Not only did they not apply 3.0 l/m to the test, they didn't use 0.8. Instead it was tested at 0.6 but came out at 0.22, which is the lowest I've ever seen it.

I would not be comfortable with left foot braking as I drive manual and autos

Update 1: The injectors didn't arrive until midday Sat, so pushed things back a little. Injectors all cleaned and passed all tests (leak down, resistance, spray pattern before 2 good 2 Fair, after 4 good). Re-assembled. Only broke 3 plastic bits in the job! 1 - a small release tab on one of the electrical connectors but it still click locks ok. 2 one of the nipples on the port dividers that fit into the holes on the inlet mani gasket. 3 - on leg on one of the plastic stand off stands for the injectors. After a fair bit of cranking and some key cycles / door opening closing it eventually fired up. Did an oil and filter change. All seems good now. Throttle control response under light throttle definitely improved. A road / motor way progress I did not notice a lot of difference tbh. I am hoping the cold start light throttle miss and rough idle will be gone. Will report back after a few mornings. Also hoping that the fuel economy might get back to levels of a year or two back. But to early to report at this stage.

I'm running original VW 185/60/R15 alloys purchased second hand from a Skoda dealer, fitted with CrossClimate tyres. I wanted these tyres and they are not available for either the 16" or 17" size wheels. The tyre pressure plate covers this size wheel, they are a standard fit on lower spec cars (and the factory supplied spare is this size so there were no concerns "will it fit"). Tyres were considerably cheaper than the larger sizes. Ride is nicer, and fuel economy does not seem to suffer. Note the speedo will be marginally out, less than 1% so nothing to worry about unless you drive to the wire and play chicken with speed cameras.

Also got some washers to raise the bonnet up a bit. Because of the bent front slam panel it sits low where the hinges are and makes it look odd so I just got some washers to put it up a few cm's. Looks better now.

I’d just like to add my thanks to everyone who has posted on this Haldex thread and the other ones with all the helpful info and advice – and especially for the heads up on cleaning the pump filter on the Haldex 5 unit. I asked Allams to do the oil change at 3 years (47k miles). It wasn’t on their to do list as standard service items. At 6 years I assumed the dealer at MK would do it (and I forgot to check beforehand) and it wasn’t done, so it was on my to do list. Then I read the pump filer cleaning info and that became a high priority now being 6.5 years and 88k miles. I bought the service kit from haldexrepairs.co.uk and I’m well impressed with their service and the info on their website. Yesterday, I jacked the Yeti up (many jacks and axles stands) and got on with the task. Probably the most difficult job is undoing the adult-proof pump harness plug from the controller… Yes, I watched all the videos but it’s still impossible! In the end, I unbolted the controller and that made it all possible. The oil looked pretty clean as it drained out and I wasn’t expecting to see the pump filter (and pump housing) in the condition they were – a sort of congealed mess covering at least 80% of the filter. How well it was working, who know. I ran a VCDS check before and after as well as the ‘pump learn’ program from VCDS. I don’t blame the dealers – the manual doesn’t tell them to pull the pump and clean the filter but it certainly should. I am surprised the dealers don’t even have the oil change on their radar – but then, MK told me my Citigo cambelt change was due (it doesn’t get replaced according to the Skoda manual), failed the MOT on it for having the headlights too low (then they found the headlight adjuster on the dash) and told me the wheel bolts ‘won’t tighten, they just keep turning because there’s copper grease on them’…. I won’t be going back there. Anyway, thanks again for the wealth of good info once again on Briskoda. I took a load of pictures and will write up a bit on how I did it in case it’s of use to other Haldex V owners. And after cleaning....

I was nervous on if it would fit or not on the front with the 9.5 , I didn’t want to use spacers. I done a bit of research on them and sided on a more negative approach to them. Luckily I didn’t need them. I went with the 255/35/19 because it has a very slight stretch on the tire giving it a slimmer look without having to comprise ride quality. A few friends of mine are running 235/35/19 and for the price of the wheels I thought it would ruin them. And to answer your question it’s a ET42.

Got a few here n there.....

I wanted to give it a day or two to make sure I didnt just wreck my engine. The first day it felt as though it pulled harder, but it wasnt too happy crawling throught town when it was busy, it does it sometimes and I assumed it was just trying to work out what was changing. It does it occasionally wherein it is very jerky at part throttle and when it does this it will always Idle at 1000 rpm rather than the 780 it should. I can think of a handful of times where it has done it but it just goes away after a while. The second day it seemed to work out the kinks and pulled pretty well. Its more lively now at part throttle and seems to spool a bit quicker/easier too. It also gives off a little bit of extra induction noise,not much but its there. I doubt I have made more power doing this but it seems just a little more lively anyhow. Would I recommend someone else to do this? Probably not. I am happy with the results however, my car was down for 2 days and it made a mess of my workspace. Not to mention that I almost lost an eye when one of the cutting disks came apart and flew past my head. If I were to do this again I would either buy another damper and do it on that one, so my car is only down for 2hours rather than 2 days. Or better yet I would have just bought a Darkside damper and be done with it. If a spare damper was £30 and a darkside one was £50 Its not worth the £20 difference to spend so much time to do it. Rather it would be much smarter to just buy the upgraded piece,install it and forget it.

I know it's a bit of a thread resurrection, but thanks for coming back to post this info. The local Skoda franchised stealer were spectacularly unhelpful in telling me that 3V0845011AE NVB was not a heated windscreen and refused to give me the part number for a heated windscreen. Fortunately, your post gave me the courage to pull the trigger on one with that exact part number which (lo and behold) does have connectors at the bottom of the screen for the heating element...

Quick clean yesterday