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again, all installations/retrofits i did myself Technology/Lights Modifications - Start-stop memory device - Smart Light Assist (SLA) retrofit (P/N: 3V2941015B, 3V2941016B, 4H0941329 x2, 8P0941621) - Direct Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) retrofit (P/N: 5Q0907273B, 5Q0907275B x4, 3G0907538) - Dynamic Wing Mirror Indicators - Mega Power LED boot lights - Auxito LED bulbs - reverse and indicator bulbs. top = factory halogen bulb bottom = LED bulb - Lumileds LED fog light bulbs - Philips xTremeVision Gen2 D3S bulbs top = factory bulb bottom = Philips bulb - Rear door warning lights retrofit - SUPERB Ghost LED door warning lights, front & rear - Blackvue DR450 front dashcam - Rear console 12v socket converted to Dual USB ports (in progress)

Mechanical Modifications - 034Motorsport Turbo Muffler Delete - CTS MQB Gen3 High-flow Turbo Inlet elbow - Torque Solution Turbo Inlet pipe - Modified air intake - unblocked air intake flap, additional holes in front of airbox - Snow Guard removal - aFe Magnaflow Air filter - Engine dust shield cover - ECS Atmospheric Diverter Valve Spacer (removed after 3 months)

decided it is finally time to catalog all the bits n pieces I've done to Gandalf (MY17 Superb 162TSi). its been 3.5 yrs, and a lot has been done, but u wouldn't think that looking at it. below is full listing of everything I've done. all things small, and some big. Geez - there is a LOT of things!!! I didn't realise how many until I listed each & every one of them them down!!! yes, I need an Intervention hence, this is going to b a long long post - u've been warned!! firstly - a summary of all the things done, including links. This will b followed by subsequent posts of pics, and details for some of the things. things I may, or may not, do in the near future:- - ECU Tune - TCU Tune - Front Strut brace - Front End-links - illuminated front door sills enjoy, cringe or look away........ Interior Modifications - Chrome strip across dashboard - Chrome rings on interior door handles - Aluminum alloy DSG paddle shifter extensions - Chrome plated 12v socket cover - Stainless Steel footrest Accelerator & Brake Pedals - Chrome boot close button - Chrome Car Seat Memory Switch - Key bottom Chrome end tip RS6 style - SUPERB - Headrest multifunctional coat hanger - Rubber mat over rear tunnel Exterior Modifications - Rieger side-skirts, color-coded (P/N: K00079041+ K00079042) - Black Fog light Frames - Sportline rear diffusor - Heko Wind Deflectors - Blackened (plasti-dip) front lower grille chrome bits - Spaced out SUPERB lettering, front & back - SUPERB fender badge - Roof wrapped Gloss Black vinyl - Chrome strip across rear lights and boot edge, like Facelift model - Chrome strip across lower door guard protector edge, like L&K models - Chrome strip across front bumper lower edge, like L&K models - Mudflaps, front (modified to accommodate side-skirts) & rear - Skoda tire valve caps - Aluminum alloy fuel cap cover - Stainless Steel door lock cover - Aluminum Boot Lid rear door sill - Chrome Door Handle Bowls - Lightly smoked tint rear tail lights - Lightly smoked tint fog lights - Sound deadening - boot floor, inside wheel arches (front & rear) - removed blocked brake duct in front wheel arches Handling Modifications - 15mm front & rear aluminum hub-centric spacers - 25.4mm Hardrace rear sway bar (P/N: HR7759) - Whiteline rear end-links (adjustable) (P/N: KLC202) - Eibach Prokit Lowering Springs (25mm) (P/N: 10-84-042-02-22) - 034Motorsport Billet Aluminum MQB Lower Dogbone Mount Insert Mechanical Modifications - 034Motorsport Turbo Muffler Delete - CTS MQB Gen3 High-flow Turbo Inlet elbow - Torque Solution Turbo Inlet pipe - Modified air intake - unblocked air intake flap, additional holes in front of airbox - Snow Guard removal - aFe Magnaflow Air filter - Engine dust shield cover - ECS Atmospheric Diverter Valve Spacer (removed after 3 months) Technology/Lights Modifications - Start-stop memory device - Smart Light Assist (SLA) retrofit (P/N: 3V2941015B, 3V2941016B, 4H0941329 x2, 8P0941621) (video) - Direct Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) retrofit (P/N: 5Q0907273B, 5Q0907275B x4, 3G0907538) - Dynamic Wing Mirror Indicators (video) - Mega Power LED boot lights - Auxito LED bulbs - reverse and indicator bulbs. (video) - Lumileds LED fog light bulbs - Philips xTremeVision Gen2 D3S bulbs - Rear door warning lights retrofit - SUPERB Ghost LED door warning lights, front & rear - Blackvue DR450 front dashcam - Rear console 12v socket converted to Dual USB ports (in progress) VCDS Coding Modifications - activated alarm chirp when locking/unlocking - enabled SLA (next level up from HBA) - activated eyelashes (requires SLA headlights) - activated Fog lights as Coming-Home/Leaving-Home - activated rear lights with DRLs - activated DRL menu in infotainment - activated Traffic Sign Recognition (TSR) - disabled tailgate beep - activated refuel quantity - activated traffic notifications (TMC) - disabled undertaking prevention - enabled High Beam Assist (HBA) memory - comfort indicator from 3 to 5 flashes - enabled instrument (dash) illumination at all times - Throttle change to direct - Engine Start button strobe effect (video) VCP Modifications - upload SLA parameter file for 4B Multi function module - upload TPMS parameter file for 65 Tire Pressure module

Second that, Wino! You may have saved this car to die another day. Not sure I had enough patience left to keep it on the road. Top man!

I was only mentioning it in case others, like me, barely know the difference between rust and corrode, and stick Skoda dealer supplied dust caps (a free "gift"), and a few months later when inflating tyres find they're impossible to remove Doh. Couldn't get the buggers off, ended up getting garage to do it when it went in for MOT. If I ever get them again, I think I'd regularly give the a twist to make sure they're freed up rather than waiting months like I did. I've no idea what the Skoda ones were made of. They do look much better than cheapo plastic though.

Garage just phoned. They’ll come collect it on 27th to apply the recall and have a look at it. Will post back here on progress.

I'm not sure which is worse; barn envy, retirement envy, or 105 envy. Think I've got a touch of all three! Enjoy your new found freedom and toy Gaz

I think it just clips onto a piece of plastic somewhere. I'd be tempted to fix it sooner rather than later as flapping around could damage it's wires. It looks like part number 11 on this diagram: Taken from https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2015-753/8/805-805000/ One rather pants video of a Leon owner randomly talking rather than actually replacing it, still it shows the sensor fitted:

Don't stop there John... More to come please!!!

Handling Modifications - 15mm front & rear aluminum hub-centric spacers - 25.4mm Hardrace rear sway bar (P/N: HR7759) - Whiteline rear end-links (adjustable) (P/N: KLC202) left = whiteline right = factory - Eibach Prokit Lowering Springs (25mm) (P/N: 10-84-042-02-22) top = eibach bottom = factory - 034Motorsport Billet Aluminum MQB Lower Dogbone Mount Insert

apart from painting of the side skirts, and wrapping the roof, I fitted/installed everything else. Exterior Modifications - Rieger side-skirts, color-coded (P/N: K00079041+ K00079042) - Black Fog light Frames - Sportline rear diffusor - Heko Wind Deflectors - Blackened (plasti-dip) front lower grille chrome bits - Spaced out SUPERB lettering, front & back - SUPERB fender badge - Roof wrapped Gloss Black vinyl - Chrome strip across rear lights and boot edge, like Facelift model - Chrome strip across lower door guard protector edge, like L&K models - Chrome strip across front bumper lower edge, like L&K models - Mudflaps, front (modified to accommodate side-skirts) & rear - Skoda tire valve caps - Aluminum alloy fuel cap cover - Stainless Steel door lock cover - Aluminum Boot Lid rear door sill - Chrome Door Handle Bowls - Lightly smoked tint rear tail lights - Lightly smoked tint fog lights - Sound deadening - boot floor, inside wheel arches (front & rear) - removed blocked brake duct in front wheel arches

Interior Modifications - Chrome strip across dashboard. flexible chrome strip placed it between the silver trim and the black plastic. above the glovebox, and above the headlight switch. - Chrome rings on interior door handles flexible chrome strip wrapped around the top of all the door handles, as per the facelift Superb. - Aluminum alloy DSG paddle shifter extensions stick on ones. been 12 plus months. still solid and nice feel to it when pressing. - Chrome plated 12v socket cover - Stainless Steel footrest Accelerator & Brake Pedals - Chrome boot close button - Chrome Car Seat Memory Switch - Key bottom Chrome end tip RS6 style - SUPERB - Headrest multifunctional coat hanger - Rubber mat over rear tunnel

Thank you !!! here she is

I really enjoyed the ride to the mountains today!

Not a very rare sight ..you can see many of them on roads even today....but high cost of spares and skoda being considered as a luxury brand resulting in high labour costs even locally are the main reasons why people tend to stay away from the octy....being a DIY guy helps in these situations.... atleast your labour costs are saved...but you can't expect everyone to have all the tools required for the vehicle...as most cars in India have standard bolts, screws.....The German cars here are famous for the torx bolts.... Many mechs here don't have the proper tools...and you can't expect them to have special tools for a single car. Similarly, the American cars are famous for Allen bolts. My toolbox has been updated over the years by me working on my own vehicles.... buying one tool at a time as and when required...so I do most of the stuff myself.

Got you found the correct kit now in case anyone does need to do one of these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-wheel-bearing-wheel-hub-removal-tool-kit-for-VAG-VW-Polo-Audi-A1-A2-72mm/203223418386?hash=item2f510f4612:g:zMwAAOSwhrRfydka

That kit is only usefull when you have access to the bearing outer race. If you watch the video and look at what you get when you buy a front wheel bearing you will see why the Gen 2 tool is required and that kit will not work. Even the fitting/removal instructions in the linked advert show why it wont work.

I've been thrown a lifeline tonight for the Supersapiens... Unit/trailer for Igloo have broken down on way from Leeds to Rochdale so day off and weather looks OK. 👍

Please, send some snow down to Slovakia. All I got here is a mud these days Snow just in higher altitudes, but I expect to be freezing outside for next few days. At least, the mud will freeze. Chance to ride a mtb without mudguards again.

Battery life totally depends entirely on how it is treated from its first fitment. Any long period of time where it is allowed to discharge or it’s held in a low voltage state will permanently damage it. That includes any long stand times of 6 weeks or more in the distribution network from new, any similar storage time at a dealership, or low usage by the end customer esp with the current pandemic. AGM is more resistant to this and has the best chance of recovery. Use it or lose it... or use a charger overnight once every 4 weeks if it’s doing short journeys or tens of miles/month. Once the damage is done, a full recovery or improvement is very difficult.

The good thing about stop/start both on my last Yeti and now my Kamiq is that it's a simple button press as you start the engine to disable it!

It'll be just fine.

Don't follow this advice!! A hairdryer on high in a confined space reaches a very high temperature! You will almost certainly damage the headlight internally, melting/distorting the plasic internals and internal moving parts and damage the LED unit, wiring and optics. It will cost you several hundred pounds per side to replace LED headlights. In any case it will not solve the problem because the units are ventilated, not sealed and outside air/humidity invariably gets drawn in and misting will happen when there is humidity and a temperature difference inside/outside the unit. Its a design consequence and theres no easy fix.

Money no object? I'll buy an old American muscle car, high power, carb fed, terrible fuel consumption and then join the owners club and start posting about what mileage I can eke out of it. OK that was a joke.. If I can only have one car, purchase and running costs are no issue, my requirement for at least 5 seats and a good boot means I'll get an Alpina B5 touring, fully loaded. If I ditch my family, I'll have a Ferrari 812 GTS.

The selling dealer is responsible, as others have said, will probably try and wriggle out of it, but it’s their problem as a professional. I would also put the inspector on notice (write to them, quoting their reference) stating that a balancing machine shows deformed, asking for their deformation threshold parameter, as they said they weren’t. There is a difference between not visually deformed, and no deformation at all. I suspect you are going to have to be very precise in your choice of words Good Luck

Just done a steering wheel swap myself. It's dead straight forward. Ali express buttons - hope they work! But if theydon't I will have a set of oem buttons for sale soon. I've had to buy a complete wheel just for the lower trim! Going to sell the wheel on for someone who wants to retrim (like I've had done). Only thing to be aware of is to not leave your key in the ignition when disconnecting battery/airbag and reconnnecting otherwise it'll throw up a code that needs VCDS to clear. Taking the airbag off is easy, 2 clips at the back of the wheel. Taking all the trim etc off is also simple, screwdriver and bit of persuasion is all.

As soon as you fit a tow bar it is capable of towing 2000kg no matter that you’ve only got a small trailer. Have you tried a 3rd party tow bar fitter like Phil Taylor. As long as you get the proper bar and it’s wired and coded correctly. After all the dealer will probably send it to a tow bar fitting outfit and charge you for the privilege.

Pretty sure it's the outdoor temperature sensor you're both seeing. Certainly matches the position on various other VAG cars. No idea what the easiest way to refit it is I'm afraid.

"Sorry my mistake. I meant Focus of course." I guessed that's what it might be; I meant to add a smiley

Not the class you're after but the photos and videos should be similar.

My Kodiaq can close from the button on the remote but you have to keep pressing the middle button on the remote and have to be within 2 metres.

@mehta Welcome to the forum. It is over ten years since that post and since the member signed into the forum. It will be worth posting in the Rapid section of the forum saying what age your car is, & what engine etc.

Actually it closes from Key fob. It just does not close from the inside when pressing lid button. Works fine while pressing and holding. Same procedure as for opening.

Just a button press on the tailgate I’m afraid, it won’t close from the remote key fob.

Yes, use maps or waze - both more reliable than inbuilt satnav. I have inbuilt satnav but rarely use it because I find it somewhat idiosyncratic compared with waze or maps.

2017 sounds a year early for your battery to begin failing. But you could try putting the car on charge for a few hours, if the stop/start works for a while after that then that would point to the battery. My 2016 Yeti started not doing stop/start a few months ago and a charge up got it going again for a while. Upon a new battery a month ago it has remained working fine. Exactly the same occured btw with my son's Octavia.

New car delivered yesterday and absolutely delighted. Looking forward to stretching it’s legs when the lockdown eventually eases 😀

Monkey spunk or Cheetahs fanny batter...

I think I kinda follow that.... I don’t really mind my battery lasting a year. What I do mind is the car NOT TELLING ME WHEN IT SAYS IN THE MANUAL THAT IT SHOULD!! If it just flashes a message up like it should then I’d change the battery or at least ensure I had spares with me.

I had a similar problem, replaced batterie s 11 months ago with Renata 2025, a brand I considered to be good. But like others with no warning as I was locked out of the car. I emailed Renata and got what I thought was a good reply... Regarding your finding: On testing, the voltage was down sufficiently to stop the keyless entry from working. So the battery lasted just 11 months. Regarding your comment: 2025 (180mAh) would appear to be greater than that of the Panasonic 2025 (165mAh) The capacity alone does not say anything about the pulse capability of a battery. The explanation is quite simple. We have different batteries for different applications for CR batteries as well as for silver batteries. For a car key as a good example, consider that the different temperatures (summer and winter) have a strong influence on the pulse capability. Therefore datasheets are always using room temperature as base. (Independent of the manufacturer) Using a battery that is not designed for higher pulses may mean that not all the capacity in the battery can be used. For pulse application like your car key we recommend to use our CR20XXMFR (165mAh) For application without pulse demand we (like a real time clock) we recommend to use our CR20XX.MFR (180mAh) Attached I send you the two related datasheets. I hope I have been able to give you an understandable explanation with these details. Best regards from Switzerland I won't bore you with the data sheets. I replaced the batteries with Energizer which are 165mAh as above. Less is more, it seems!!

The unfortunate thing with the motor trade is that people have a very low opinion of those that work in it. The unfortunate thing with the above is the motor trade is full of people who are mongs, snakes, morons etc so it's quite an apt opinion for the most point, that applies to both dealer and independents. It's a trade that schools point the stupid kids in the direction of. Just to clear the air though guys it takes a lot more than some comments on the Internet to rattle my cage. I'm a sarcastic arse hole at the best of times but sarcasm rarely travels well without tone of voice. Dash cams again. I always plug them back in when I'm done, usually as I park the car up in the car park. Whilst a vehicle is under our care it's insured by our insurance. Sadly GDPR has become a big concern these days and a breach can result in a hefty fine and or job loss for the guilty party. It's a legal concern that isn't going away, if your dash cam captures someone else's personal information then that's a breach, we could end up in hot water. One could argue that your dash cam is your responsibility to check and make sure it's functioning correctly regardless of outside influences just like drivers should (but rarely do) check their tyres, oil, screenwash etc. If that's part of an agreement with your insurance then maybe notifying them of the dealer visit might be the answer should an issue occur? I've known people do just that when they have trackers/black boxes fitted. Our contact centre will generally contact people to advise them that their timing belt is due when it's approaching that time, it's their job. The calibre of those people might not be that great, they might not know all the ins and outs, more often than not the person that calls you has probably never had their head under the bonnet of a car. All skodas (and the rest of VWG) are due at 5 years or the appropriate mileage. Those staff members do the same for any other pending work.

Whiteline RARB fitted today, could say its amazing weather to be testing the limits of grip First impression even in these wintery conditions is that the rear definitely feels tighter and that wallowing feeling the standard setup has is not there, noticeably turn in feels that little bit sharper/ responsive. Once the roads dry out... should be able to give it a proper test. Thanks to all for the advice by the way, much appreciated

PS Forgot to say the real testing section I wanted to try out was the part of the road to the left of the wood in the middle of this pic. Unfortunately it had been gritted and cleared.

Just joining this from from wet Sydney Australia :-) Just took delivery of MY21 Kodiaq RS in race blue. Fantastic car, but only done 30 kays so far, so not really experienced it. Hoping to get some help on a few questions, so I hope I post in the right section.

I've got a low profile sgs trolley Jack but because the ground is unlevel (I like on a hill) the trolley Jack can be leveled out if it slips but the trolley Jack has no forgiven when it's gone as I found out when working on my civic whilst putting an axle stand, luckily I had put steel wheels under the sill already as there's no way I would have fit underneath it

My VRS in quartz grey.

Mine the day i got it, love the colour and alloys!

My cars in "the rear"

Have a look on-line at AutoExpress website, they regularly test replacement bulbs and recommend the brightest and best.