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Best recommendation I've ever had was to buy OEM VW concentrated screenwash. You can mix it at various concentrations. Used neat it stays liquid down to -70. It's also not as thick and prone to leaving streaks as some of the stuff you get from Halfords

How no 92 currently looks.

Is just one combination of words I can rearrange my rear badges into, if I throw the s away. Using all the letters I can get... Others include abos predusk absurd pokes absurd spoke absurds poke abused porks adsorb pukes adsorbs puke apod buskers apods burkes apods busker askos burped bakers updos bark pseudos bark spoused barked soups barks pseudo barks souped basked pours basked roups basks poured basks rouped bauds pokers boa predusks boards pukes boas predusk boused spark braked soups brakes updos breaks updos breakup doss breakup sods breakups dos breakups ods breakups sod broads pukes brusk soaped bud presoaks buds presoak buras spoked burked psoas burked soaps burkes apods burkes dopas burkes spado burped askos burped soaks burps soaked bursa spoked bursas poked busked praos busked proas busked sapor busker apods busker dopas busker spado buskers apod buskers dopa daubers kops daubes porks daubs pokers debark soups debarks opus debarks soup dobras pukes dopa buskers dopas burkes dopas busker dos breakups doss breakup dub presoaks dubs presoak dusk saprobe kbar pseudos kbar spoused kbars pseudo kbars souped kebars updos kerb soapsud kop surbased kops daubers kos superbad ods breakups opus debarks padouks rebs padouks serb poke absurds poked bursas pokers bauds pokers daubs pokes absurd porks abused porks daubes poured basks pours basked praos busked predusk abos predusk boas predusks boa presoak buds presoak dubs presoaks bud presoaks dub proas busked probed skuas pseudo barks pseudo kbars pseudos bark pseudos kbar psoas burked puke adsorbs pukes adsorb pukes boards pukes broads pukes dobras rebs padouks rouped basks roups basked sapor busked saprobe dusk serb padouks skuas probed soaked burps soaks burped soaped brusk soaps burked soapsud kerb sod breakups sods breakup soup debarks souped barks souped kbars soups barked soups braked soups debark spado burkes spado busker spark boused spoke absurd spoked buras spoked bursa spoused bark spoused kbar superbad kos surbased kop updos bakers updos brakes updos breaks updos kebars

Just did the full car sound deaderning last week: all 4 doors, tailgate,boot floor, all 4 wheels arches, bonnet, and B pillars. I used Pingjing 2.2mm sound deadener, top with Pingjing 4mm rubber damping liner. Now the car feels quite and chill. Bonus shoot, the car is also a little bit lower than before, thanks to the those good 50 kilo sound deadener. Tho the car does feel a little heavier when driving as expected, I don't really mind it. One small tip: for anyone who has a car with powered tailgate, AVOID use sound deadener on the tailgate. Those sound deadeners just give struts too much pressure due to leverage. At the beginning I placed sound deadeners on both top and back side of the tailgate. When I tried to close the tailgate, the door was like be smashed. And it could not open by the powered strut itself properly, I had to give it a hand to open. Seems the struts didn't have enough torque to handle the extra weight. Then I remove the sound deadeners on the back side, only leave those sound deadeners on top side there. The power tailgate worked ok then, but still not as smoothly and gently as before when closing. In the next few days, I kept asking myself: would those sound deadeners make any difference? Maybe yes. But would those sound deadeners make a huge difference? Probably no. Is it worth to taking the potential risk of breaking my struts just for that little changes? Of cause no. Today I finally decided to remove all the sound deadeners on the tailgate. Now the tailgate feels as smoothly as before (of cause it should). I don't find the car be any louder in any circumstances.

hello all new to here thought id pop in say hello had this for about 6 months love it very nippy motor nice jump from a MK3 fabia monte Carlo. Now going to enjoy many more years with this 😊😊

Hi! I new in this forum I bought 5E0035874A and 5E0919605D. Standard Navigation head unit with the display screen. And I’m trying to figure out the connectors function to be able to build a cable harness to this system. Can anyone help me with the connector description on the units? I have attached two pictures. For the 5E0919605D: Connector 1: 12-pins (need to have the pinout description) Connector 2: is this one connected to the pink connector in the head unit? (need to have the pinout description) For the 5E0035874A: Connector 1,2: (Double White) AM-FM antenna connector Connector 3: (Single Black) – DAB antenna connector Connector 4: (Single Pink) is this one connected to the display? (need to have the pinout description) Connector 5: (Single Yellow/Brown) no idea Connector 6: (Single blue) - GPS antenna connector Connector 7: (MOST) – Audio to amplifier Connector 8: I got the pin description on the forum Thanks in advance. Regards, Antonio

Was looking at the Skoda Owners Facebook page today, and a member Mike Holroyd seems to have finally sorted the issue with the dipping passenger mirror. I know other members on here have struggled to get this coding to work on their Octavias, so I thought I would post this, if it helps. Credit: Mike Holroyd "Passenger mirror dip in reverse - Octy 3 (MQB) Had a play with VCDS on the Leon this afternoon (same as the Octy3) and finally managed to get the reverse gear passenger door mirror dip to work after months of trying. Yes I know it's been sorted on a Seat, but I'm putting this on here as I have seen folks asking on here too as to why it isn't working on their Octy 3. Found a bit of info on an Audi forum, and everything now working perfectly As well as the well documented changes to the 09 Central Electronics module (access code 31347), there is a further setting in 52 Passenger door electronics - it appears that switching on the mirror dip in central electronics can also switch on the "memory mirror with memory seats" option in the door controller, and with no memory seats fitted, if that is ticked, the dipping function won't work. This setting is not documented anywhere I could find! So the complete coding for activating the mirror dip is: Controller 09 - Central Electronics 16 - Security Access - enter 31347 10 - Adaptation (15)-Access control 2-Spiegelabsenkung bei Rueckwaertsfahrt - change to active (this switches function on) (20)-Access control 2-Menuesteuerung Spiegelabsenkung - change to active (this switches on an extra entry on the mirror option in the settings menu in the infotainment screen) Controller 52 - Passenger door electronics Long coding -> Function 07 (no access code needed) Byte 04 DEACTIVATE bit 1 Mirror memory function (with memory seats) installed/active (NOT TICKED - if it is ticked, it will not work) Activate bit 2 Reverse gear mirror dipping active (TICKED) Activate bit 3 Position memory for Reverse Gear Mirror Dipping active (TICKED) Close controller, unplug VCDS, switch off ignition, lock car, unlock it again and switch ignition back on to reboot. This coding will be exactly the same on the Octy 3 - hope it helps someone out Remember, the mirror adjustment switch needs to have the left mirror selected for this to work."

Couple of random examples on eBay: - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294009730760 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233687908813 I've no idea if they are any good but given the price, they are almost certainly copies. Might be worth sending @Rustynuts a message as he knows these units inside out and may be able to help

If it looks like the image below, it's an RNS-510 style: It has an internal hard drive so it should copy the maps from the DVD to itself. This can take 40 minutes but it should do it while you're driving around, once it's copied, you can remove the DVD.

Guys is it now got to the stage for us all to make our voices heard by considering going to [email protected], with all our issues with Skoda, especially Skoda UK.

Welcome As you have a 2011 MK2 Superb, you probably have a RNS-510 style Columbus. The latest maps are V17 which are 2020, these are available on DVD. A dealer will probably charge some insane amount (£200?!), otherwise there are various copies online or if you're savvy, you might even find an ISO to download. Just be wary of 3rd party sources as there is no guarantee they've not been messed with... The Skoda website is only for newer cars with MIB style headunits so it's not applicable to your car I'm afraid. Hope that helps,

Are tyre manufacturers only offering 7mm tread depth? I have noticed that tyre tread depths used to be 8mm but on my last two replacements I have measured 7mm. Then no doubt it will be reduced to 6mm.

Yes I can see why that phone doesn't get updated regularly lol. I think computer bioses normally get their main updates early on in their lifecycle so there may not even be another for @Robjon's computer for quite some time. The initial question was self answered though:-

They are meant to be internally lubricated. I would guess that the creak is most likely coming from the ball joint, maybe worth a blob of grease, they are super easy to remove. 540N seems to ring a bell, there is a similar topic to this somehwere where someone did the same as me with the sound deadening and put some way overpowered struts on (650N maybe?) and said his boot nearly took off so only ended up using 1. Plenty of auto spares sites that you can use to replace them.

Could be water pump on the way out

My answer is no and I have never upgraded bios on my computer either.

Consider the driving you’ve been doing as well. Just because your engine is up to temp after a short distance, doesn’t mean your box is as well.

Oh fantastic, thanks for the link.

Oh ok I'll have a look the weekend, Thanks for the replies

BIOS updates only happen infrequently (unlike Windows updates which can be one than one per month). Unlike a failed Windows update - which can be recovered from by a (painful) reinstall - a failed BIOS update will often brick the computer, so the best advice IMHO is to only do a BIOS update when absolutely necessary. I've only had to do a BIOS update once in nearly 20 years of PC ownership - when the original BIOS wouldn't support more than 2GB of RAM and a BIOS update added support for up to 16GB of RAM.

Yes. Personally I wouldn't go full throttle below 80C, and from 90C onwards no concerns.

Yes. See ID.4 thread.

Think of your laptop as just another electronic device similar to a mobile phone. Now ask yourself if that (usually) gets updated every month and you have your answer. I would doubt the laptop had firmware upgrades quite so often but they are done for a reason.

Thanks, after reading through here it seems to be an issue loads of people are having! It hasn't happened since I applied that update, but I'm not holding my breath! Otherwise the car is excellent and I'm very happy with it.

I'm sure you didn't buy Octavia 3 when it first came out, right? I'm sure they also had issue when the mk3 was first launched. As far as I know most car manufacturers have issues when a new model is launched. Ok, now days this is a bit multiplied since there is much more tech in the new cars. Please don't understand me wrong. Some of you guys have way too much issues which I agrees they shouldn't happen. I'm not sure what would I do if I was in your shoes.

Thanks all, seems a common Skoda issue then. Mine has been frozen solid for the last 48hrs. I've been climbing in and out of the passenger seat. Hopefully once it gets milder I can get it all dry and WD40 it and then perhaps get it greased this summer.

@Luckypants A pair of Snow Socks on the rear will be ideal for around town or village if there is no blacktop road about. The past few days there are so many about my area that could have done with using a pair even if just to get moved from the roadside. I am never surprised at drivers that do not understand if they can not reverse or go forward a few feet where they are at the kerbside with the steering straight then trying to get out to the road over the snow or frozen snow is a waste of time. If somebody is really stuck i will stop and help and put Snow Socks on their drive wheels if they want a help. If they are outside their house and have not de-iced the car or shovelled some snow to get moving i do not bother helping. (There are some exceptions to that obviously..... Like maybe a cuppa and a warm up could get offered.)

Ah, my apologies. This is not the usual TPMS Warning message. Ignore me......

Having read all the issues with the Mk4 Octavia with regards the software, it does make you wonder doesn’t it?I have had my mk3 for nearly 4 years now with no faults with exception of a fuel pressure sensor about a year ago. Currently i I have no real desire to change cars when you read all these issues with tech on new cars. Car manufacturers should build cars and leave tech to the likes of Apple. I mean why you need an app to tell you the doors are locked?

There's a pressure equalising port/hole in the cap of the PCV, red arrow pointing at it in this photo. Find a way to block that while the engine is running and see whether it affects the idle speed or smoothness. It should not. If the idle changes, the valve needs replacement.

Sounds very familiar. I’ve not had the car long but I seem to have noticed so far that whilst the temperature is below zero then the screen wash doesn’t flow properly despite the engine being fully warmed up. Like you I will need to use much stronger ratio of concentrate and drop my old habits of diluting it that used to be fine with my previous vehicle.

I'm thinking the Audi looks better from the front and is generally more handsome. Taycan interior has more class. I'll never afford either...............

I have to agree light and low power cars are good in the snow. Our Citigo on standard Bridgestone Ecopia tyres was tripping about almost without issue last time we had decent snow. The Seat Leon ST 1.6Tdi DSG on standard Hankooks we had struggled on the hills, a lot. The Karoq 4x4 has handled everything we have thrown at it, but it never saw snow on the standard Bridgestone summer tyres.... it wears Bridgestone WeatherControls now. I have to admit that I have some reservations about a heavy RWD EV in snow, especially as I'll just run the standard tyres until they wear out. We only get a dump of snow rarely and our road into the village is regularly gritted, so I'm risking it. If the ID.4 proves to be useless in snow, we have the Citigo as backup.

Thanks it was clogged up! & I cleaned it I'll see how it goes now

'Tesco Momentum 99' is 99 ron minimum and can sometimes exceed 99 ron. Some Tesco Express filling stations have ESSO super unleaded which was 97 ron minimum but is now 99 ron min.

Usually not a big job. Definately looks to be easy enough to change considering you have so much access to it. Why are you changing it?

Reminds me of when I was on day release at technical college, it was the days of furry dice & winscreen sunstrips with yours and your girlfriends name in large stick on letters. "CLIVE & PAT" used to get changed by us every week and we would even buy extra letters to get what we wanted, my favorites were "CLIT & APE" & "VILE PRAT"

Toyo CF2 summer tyre tread depth 165/60R15 7.2mm 175/60R15 7.8mm 175/65R15 7.8mm 185/55R15 7.8mm 185/60R15 7.9mm 185/65R15 8.4mm 195/50R15 7.8mm 195/55R15 7.9mm 195/60R15 8.5mm 195/65R15 8.5mm 205/60R15 8.6mm 205/65R15 8.6mm https://www.toyo.co.uk/tire/pattern/proxes-cf2

So remove the large bit at the bottom (hopefully my trim removal tools will ensure no lost bits) then the window frame piece. Perfect. And thank you 😊

Exhaust manifold heat shield.

SE L Executive hatch 280PS TSI 4X4 Alcantara with DCS, KESSY, LED Plus, flappy paddle gearshift, rear seat drop from control in back of boot Collected it today.

Had the same freezing door / lock mechanism here the last few days as well but it has been -5 or so. It only appears to affect the drivers door so I'm starting to wonder if it is just down to how I park on a slope that means any thaw leads to water running into the lock which then freezes, or if it's to do with the drivers door being the only one with a keyhole in the handle?? Like you I've yet to find a solution and have tried squirts of WD40 and de-icer as well, which don't seem to work, meaning I've resorted to getting in the passenger side, starting the car and turning heater and heated seats on full tilt to warm things up.

There may be an emissions related VAG DTC code which your app cannot show, judging from your symptoms you have an air leak in the inlet, check the brake servo vacuum line for cracks or splits and the PCV system too.

I never once had an issue with the VAG direct system I retrofitted to my MK2 Octavia All four sensors agreed with each other and my pressure gauge which is good enough for me. When I did get a puncture, watching the pressure dropping certainly helps in planning how quickly I needed to pull over too. It's something I want to retrofit on my MK3 in the future as I quite like the extra info.

This is merely to update. I told my Skoda garage and asked for their verdict, whether it was operating correctly or not. They checked it out on one of their cars with the same joint cruise and limiter and said when the enabler was switched off any speed values were lost. You could move between cruise and limiter and the values remained but switching off the enabler meant loss of values. So my system on my car is working correctly . I

update, bit the bullet and booked it into skoda was there 4 days, fault was the evaporating unit that was breaking down and the white bits were the aluminium coating which were breaking off during use, they replaced the evaporating unit but whilst stripping the dash down the heater matrix was found to be leaking as well so had to be replaced, in total for evap unit removed and replaced was £1100, then an extra £180 for heater matrix, reason so expensive as its a full dash out job. so if you have this issue it is an expensive fault to fix, but for me glad ive had it done as could not put up with it any longer and i intend to keep the car long term!!

She's only a year out of date. Bought my 1st skoda in December 2012 tdi Octy. Saw new shape Octy in showroom and thought they really had upped the pace. With all these issues I might be wrong.

...and you might find a 'how to' for cruising on grindr

Hi thanks for the reply, Car cost 6k, 1 previous owner, I'll get it over to Skoda next week and get them to check on recalls/updates. No mention of engine replacement in history. I'll check the suspension when I take delivery and I'll get some Denso's ordered. Don't worry I don't intend on messing with it much.

To @Kevgem - When "Start/Stop"-System stop to work, this is may be the first sign of bad battery condition. If You have (or You can borrow from a Friend) battery charger, with program for "AGM"-Battery type, You do not lose anything to try to charge the battery. I think, You need to give a charge for at least 24 Hours non stop. After that if You feel the same Problem with "Start/Stop"-System or hard or bad or slow start of the Engine, especially after a day or two without a Engine start, then You have to go for new "AGM"-Battery. The coding for new battery should be done with "VCDS". It is a few minutes job but You need to find who to do it. If You buy the battery from phisical (not "On Line") Store, may be there the coding can be done. This cars have the "Battery Management System" who take care for the good health of the battery and this system charge the old battery in different way from new battery. This is why we need to tell the Car that the battery is new If the Car is not used every Day or is used for short trips, it is good to give the battery a charge once a Month in the Winter and on two or three Months in Summer. Today's battery chargers are smart and do not overcharge the batteries..