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I've spent the whole evening repairing the broken photobucket links through the whole thread, so ALL of the pics are now visible to all....

Three design sketches offer a first glimpse of the revised ŠKODA KODIAQ - ŠKODA Storyboard (skoda-storyboard.com) › Visual and technical refinements for ŠKODA’s successful large SUV › Styling changes to the front and rear, plus redesigned LED headlights › Refreshed ŠKODA KODIAQ to be officially unveiled on 13 April Mladá Boleslav, 30 March 2021 – Fine-tuning for the successful model: Three design sketches give a first impression of the revised ŠKODA KODIAQ. The large SUV, which is also available as a seven-seater, marked the start of brand’s successful SUV campaign in 2016. Now featuring a refreshed look and technological enhancements, the updated KODIAQ will be celebrating its premiere on 13 April. The first design sketch shows the even more striking front of the revised ŠKODA KODIAQ: In addition to a redesigned bonnet, the look is characterised by a more upright, hexagonal ŠKODA grille featuring impressive double slats. The headlights, which are slimmer than in the predecessor, combine with the fog lights positioned below to create a new four-eyed face. Another noticeable new feature is the redesigned front apron, with a wider central air intake framed by L-shaped trim elements on either side and an aluminium-look insert. The second sketch is a close-up of the remodelled front headlights. It clearly depicts the two LED modules arranged one on top of the other, creating a characteristic light signature. The third sketch shows that the sharply drawn taillights now also have a more slimmed-down look, mirroring their counterparts at the front. They feature the brand’s signature crystalline structures and form a flatter version of the classic ŠKODA C-shape design. The arrival of the KODIAQ in 2016 marked the start of the current ŠKODA SUV family and the model nomenclature using names starting with a K and ending with a Q. Available with seven seats on request, over 600,000 units of the SUV have been produced, and it is offered in 60 markets around the world. The world premiere of the upgraded ŠKODA KODIAQ will take place on 13 April.

I have to try this out, gamechanger if it works.

Hi, Our Yeti needed a new battery a couple of months ago during extra bad weather; it's possible just charging it up would have seen winter out and another years use from it but we didn't bother just having it replaced at a cost of £286 it being a special battery due to the stop/start function. The battery and a set of cross climate tyres are the only expenses and the original tyres were still excellent so were sold on. Well said Robjon; yes indeed an whole lot of spares can be bought for the amounts you quote and I fully agree. It's not only down to money though is it with us Yeti owners; we love our Yeti's and I'm sure many Yeti owners like my wife and I can easily afford to buy a new car but there's no competition to the Yeti and with increasing electronics on every new car not everyone needs them we certainly don't. Having the stop/start alone pushes up a battery replacement cost; my first car an Hillman Minx convertible cost an whole £5 and I used to buy 3.8S Jags etc. for around £35. an MGYB saloon cost £16 taxed & tested; going back even further I responded to an advert for a child/adult sidecar at £2.50 and when I arrived a big single cylinder Matchless was still attached to it included in the price; a Norton ES2 at a fiver; obviously money was worth a great deal more during those long ago days but who would have ever thought a car battery would cost £286? In say ten years an electric car will possibly be scrapped due to needing a new battery; no thanks we're not adopting this one at all. For the cost of trading in our Yeti against a new car we could buy a second Yeti if we had the space? Kind regards, Colin.

Thank you so much Gaz, your encouragement and advice helped me to remove the silica bag from the Coolant Reservoir. I'm now thankfully clear of this 'ticking time bomb'. Mit Silikat? - nicht jetzt!

Spot on! Ours is a keeper for the same reason. Coming up to 5th birthday and still polishes up like new and at 33k miles the engine is just about run in!

I'll be honest, I booked these in last year around black friday time as I was wanting some better suspension. I found the OEM setup far too high, far too unsure and when paired with H&R springs, it overcame the aesthetic issue and eliminated a tiny bit of body roll, but was still very crashy (maybe even more so than before). Added a whiteline 24mm adjustable rear ARB (for sale BTW ) and that was a huge improvement to turn in, but the ride just got to me after a while. It felt stuck in the middle - wasn't comfortable but wasn't sharp or performance orientated either. I put an order in for some B14 Bilsteins, but some reviews made me question this choice. They dropped only a bit lower than the H&R and at this height, they're maxed out and therefore the ride suffers. So I cancelled that order (with a well known garage only minutes away) and spoke to Alex at AKS tuning (3 hrs away). He convinced me that H&R monotubes were much better, they drop more, are less bouncy and are a very capable set of suspension. However they're a good few quid more than the B14. After a couple of chats with owners who have the H&R I was convinced and put an order in. While the car was on the ramps etc I thought I might as well get a set of H&R uprated roll bars (28mm front and 26mm rear) too, to match. Anyway, after a few rescheduled appts due to covid - I went over and had them all fitted. I admit I was a little apprehensive still, thinking I might have completely ruined the 'dad bus' and would be bouncing all the way home. But! I couldn't have been more wrong. Just wow, the ride is actually better than it was when it was on the OEM shocks and H&R springs. I cannot believe how much these upgrades have improved the whole car. Steering - bit heavier and much nicer feel to it. A lot more confident/connected feeling Turn in - think it's more to do with the ARB's but wow, you throw this in corners now and it does exactly what you tell it to. No disappointing understeer, rolling around in my seat, leaning on my door for support or anything like that anymore. Ride comfort - obviously it's no limousine, the car sits pretty low but the damping and the springs are matched up so I can feel that it's doing what it should. Yes, down a bumpy b road you are going to feel how firm it is, but it's not as bad than being flung around like before. On the motorway and A roads drive home, it was perfect. Feels so planted and still a compliant/comfortable drive, for sure. Grip - the car now grips much better. No crazy banging or spinning when putting your foot down. The tyres stay rooted to the ground and it's massively better Acceleration/braking - braking is improved and more surprisingly, acceleration feels much better too and a lot smoother Looks - I've had them set to have the arches sit on top of the tyre (235 35 19). there's plenty more to go, but I don't want to rip my mudflaps or expensive splitter off! I've since taken the wheels off and coated the bodies and springs in ACF50 - to keep away the corrosion from UK rain, winters and road salt. So, would I recommend them? Absolutely 100%. They're expensive but for me, on a car of this age it's still a small fraction of the cost of the car (man maths) so it's not bad at all! If you're going to be fully loading your car with kids and luggage, maybe not such a good idea. But for folk who want their car to perform as it (really) should, then do it. It's so much more fun.

I'll give you a clue, it's the dealer.

Decided to keep the YETI and give it a birthday. Alloy refurb, paint detail and protection. 🥳

Great news mate. 13 weeks is a right result in current climate. 👍🏼👍🏼

My phone auto-corrected "ponk" to "Polk", that's all

The picture is not from the taillight. It is a generic picture from internet. My girlfriends a3 also had failing led lights. The problem was a broken solder joint. They are sometimes difficult to spot.

Let me introduce to you my latest project. It's Amundsen MIB2 made from SEAT NAVI SYSTEM unit. Thanks to it: - it has CD drive so you can play music from CDs - it supports 6 channels (4 doors, subwoofer, central speaker) driven directly from the unit (without any external amplifier), in SEAT it's called SEAT SOUND SYSTEM - it supports 5 points equalizer (125 Hz, 250 Hz, 1 kHz, 5 kHz, 10 kHz), although it doesn't look perfect as it is a mix of SEAT and SKODA skins but it works perfectly Original unit model number is 5F0035858C so it has DAB but does not have MOST => no support for Active Info Display (Virtual Cockpit), however it can also be made based on units equipped with MOST (e.g. 5F0035877). It has been flashed with Skoda SW 0478. So if anyone's interested in relatively cheap unit that supports AID (VC), has built-in CD drive and can drive subwoofer and central speaker please contact me on PM Some pictures:

Yeah I know mate. I’m feeling more philosophical about it as my current lease co have now agreed to an informal lease extension capped at 6 months, when previous correspondence had only offered fixed term 6 or 12 month extensions neither of which I wanted to commit to. So now I can just sit back and see what happens. However I would still say that one and a half weeks to place an order on the Skoda system is going to take some explaining. But I need to focus on the things I can influence and stop sweating the stuff beyond my control. It’s still the car I want, despite scouring the “in stock deals” nothing really ticks as many boxes for me, so I’ll be patient and await news of my Build Week. @e-Roottoot indeed the delays have many layers, with so many factors to link in. strange days indeed. ✌🏼

Reversing sensors will not see the towball.

I managed to get random, small amounts of polish on some of the black trim, (I normally mask with detailing tape) when I polished the Karoq recently. Bought some Meguirs trim cleaner to keep it looking as new, but still left the unsightly white marks - the answer! - a pencil eraser/ rubber! Rub the erasure on the affected area, wipe off with a clean cloth and hey presto!

This is really funny, since all cars come from same country.

Makes sense. Otherwise a failed or sticky brake light switch would discharge the battery, just like happened to me in my Mk4 Golf. I always check brake lights after turning the car off ever since.

Hi From my recent experience: a month ago I have fitted with local independent supplier Witter towbar, obviously programmed, with dedicated electrics; detachable with folding out socket. Paid £597.00 (North East of UK). Exactly the same towbar priced by Skoda garage 1/4 mile down the road £970.00 - obviously I have passed this "opportunity". Quoted also in Skoda for foldable one but this was in excess of £1200.00 - out of my reach. Local fitter did excellent job. Car dropped off for "half a day" was available for collection in about 90 minutes. They did my other cars in the past, each time excellent service. Personally I wouldn't go for fixed for aesthetical and practical reasons. Saving on fixed vs detachable very modest as the towbar itself varies from £150 to £250 -ish. Electrics/installation make majority of the cost. FYI my car came without towbar preparation.

Holy crap. I made a guide to get the door open! 20 min job and the door should open. The guide works the same as all the doors. Simply cutting into the door model shows the cog that you turn. Take a breather, sit back and take a look and see how it all works instead of not thinking and going to town on the door. As 10 minutes of searching would’ve helped you a lot. That’s why we are here after all! Now you’re going to need a new lock, and possibly a new door, depending on how much damage you’ve done as you want it to seal correctly when shut in order to stop rain water.

So basically, the DQ250 has been replaced with the DQ381 since MY2019 ?

another few days of terrible broken sleep and eveni gs too busy to get out... managed it this morning.. felt it in legs after the few days off

Due to the vibrations and rpm increase while vibrating during throttle I remowed gearbox and clutch-time for new SPECSV363F STAGE 3+, flywheel resurface and gearbox overhaul while taken of. Clutch has more than 10y and gearbox has been last time serviced 2013 when changing also 1st and 2nd for custom ones as 3-6 already were. More detailed update to come, espetially how to resurface flywheel in proper way-meaning friction plate surface together with ring gear to pressure plate surface, and not only friction plate contact surface as my custom gearbox mechanic did than. Now I gattered exact proportions-height of both surfaces from factory so I can exactly replicate it.

Find it crazy annoying that when you make a call you can't move from that call on the maxidot, the other info on there is way more important then knowing how long I've been on the call for...

May also be the motor inside the passenger side lock unit. When you unlock the car with the key in that door, it doesn't need to do anything. When you unlock from the other side it does need to work. It's not very easy to get into, but on a Polo of mine, cleaning the commutator brought this one back to working properly.

i see u've retrofitted the facelift tail lights - nice

They must have changed it on the MK2 then.

Never had any trouble with mine (MY19) and they're still the originals. Had to put two sets on the Fabia I've had for three years though.

I'm rapidly coming around to your way of thinking, Jerry. Yetis similar to mine are currently selling for £12k to £13k. So if I were to decide to replace my Yeti with (for example) a Kamiq, then I would need to find an additional £10k to £11k in order to fund the purchase. If on the other hand I were to keep my Yeti, the £10k to £11k saving should easily cover the cost of any "repairs" my Yeti is ever likely to need.

Well, parts arrived with the freight today. I am happy to say replacing the gasket has also sorted my oil leak. Now I can take it for a proper drive and make sure it's all ok. So for future reference for anyone needing to change the coolant pipe along the front of the engine; get an oil filter housing gasket too.

Interior colour matters a lot. Speak with your most reputable local tinter

I appear to be lucky (so far) with my karoq (my21). Window wipers are silent and work very well (so far) fingers crossed it remains. However I'll be replacing with these bosh blades when the time comes regardless.

No I didn't know that was a thing actually. But no dpf lights have come on or anything as yet ... and indeed the cranking delay has now completely disappeared since I gave it a high rev 30 mins on the A303, so for the moment, I think it's resolved (famous last words) ...

What is the dogs preference?

Well it seems we are one of the lucky ones - absolutely no issues with the wipers on our new Karoq.

For a TSI it can be VW 502 00 for fixed service intervals so 5w 40 FS, and for fixed or variable it can be VW504 000 / 507 00, So 5w 30 FS III For a TDI it has to be Long Life Oil for fixed or variable servicing, so VW504 00 /507 00 5w 30 FS III

It should tell you in your owners manual whether it needs to be VW 502/ VW 504 etc. From my knowledge it must meet either of those specifications depending on your engine size and whether you have a petrol or diesel engine. My car is also a FL so can check my book if you let us know whether you have a petrol or diesel engine.

Here we go, looks like i'm only updating every 3 months or so........ Struggling for any enthusiasm at the moment for messing with the car, working from home for the last 12 months has seen me getting less and less bothered about it. I know it needs finishing but with not being able to drop things at suppliers, firms being closed, it's seen it sit yet again for months on end. Still, keeps the mileage down i guess.. But, i have been doing the odd bit here and there, continuing with the interior. The rear seats are still out of the car, all clean and wrapped up ready to go back in, so i've been focusing on the drivers side floor/plastics. The carpet was given a prolonged cleaning session, wet cleaned with Chemical Guys carpet solution and then extracted, looks much nicer in there. While the drivers seat is out, it was chance to address the knocked about plastic sill trim that bugged me everytime i opened the door. Various bits of damage after 15 years is to be expected. I sourced a replacement trim for both this piece and the panel underneath the seatbelt buckle, still available from TPS. Look how long it'd been on a dusty shelf in Czech Republic...... Yip, that's right, been on the shelf for nigh on 15 years... same as the other piece i bought. Needless to say was a tricky bugger to fit, but looks loads better now. Pedals have been steam cleaned and the used mat given a light hoover. I have got a new set of mats in the loft if i even need to change them in the future. The seat fixing bolts have all been cleaned up and are being painted satin black as we speak. Speaking of seats..... i have now built a bespoke adjustable subframe for a single Cobra Suzuka GT Width racing seat. The seat subframe is now being broken down into the component parts to be painted up, and the seat is going away to my trimmers next week. The plan is to have the seat covered in vRS Fabia material, in the same style as the factory road seats, so light grey outer, onyx grey inner with the VRS logo in the right place. So it will look similar but different at the same time. Time will tell if i can live with it long term but it's something i've not seen done on a Fabia before and keeps it OEM+ instead of just throwing in a black bucket seat. The seat material has been a mission to get hold of but i'm confident it'll look stunning when done. I'm toying with the idea of getting the trimmer to make an elasticated waterproof cover to fit snug over the seat to keep mucky hands off it in the garage etc. I'll get more pics up soon, promise... :-)

Keep the Yeti Gaz

As you can see I have the same car and initially had the same problem. The solution is simple. Once deflectors are fitted and that problem occurs, here is what I did to solve it. When you usually press the window button, it's just a quick press and the window of course goes all the way up. But now it feels resistance as though a hand is trapped in the window, so it safely goes back down again to save injury.. Now the deflectors create that small resistance, so instead of a quick press of the window button, continue to hold the button up while the window makes it's way all the way up and at the same time have a hand on the glass firmly pushing upwards. Your hand pushing the glass up overcomes the resistance. After that, the window system gets to know this and overcomes the small resistance all by itself. This problem initially happened on 2 out of 4 of my windows. My windows with deflectors have not now been a problem since. Hopefully this makes sense.

I wish I had the cream leather as like you said makes it look airy and also less hot in summer. Gliptone liquid leather is what you need, as soon as leather seats look shiney it’s dirty :( It makes the car smell amazing too with its leather smell, though if you apply it without gloves it does smell like you’ve been fisting a cow

Collected yesterday. Love it.

Given interior full detail, vinyl and leather treated with zymol conditioners, carbon and piano black trims waxed with zymol detail wax and alcantara wheel cleaned too

Daftest idea I've seen in a long time !! If you like and respect your car leave this well alone. Have a look for used roof bars and boxes on E Bay. All sorts of grit and dirt will get trapped between that bag and your roof and it will act like sandpaper and will abrade the roof.

Having left polish on black trim myself, recently, I'll be raiding the kid's stationary later to do this! Cheers.

There are wires inside the rubber door bellows for the central locking. It's pretty close to the speaker so you might have disturbed a weak wire(s). I had one broken inside mine that made intermittent contact and made the doors lock/unlock randomly. Also, the door post connectors plugs/sockets can be temperamental if dirty/corroded.

Very true that gyp not the best time for me to try and negotiate a deal :-) Very comprehensive post I enjoyed reading it. £20k on a bike 😱 I’m very jealous.... I’ve found a Versys that I like and it is in my price range so emailed the dealer (only 30 miles away) with a few questions. Out of interest how does it work when you purchase a bike from a distance and get it delivered. What if you don’t like the riding position or have other issues with the bike? Would it be a case of finding a similar one more local and pretending your interested so you can try it first before looking further afield and getting one delivered blind for want of a better word?

Hi, we can quote L postcodes. However, only with certain insurers. The main providers we use for our club/forum scheme (where we have the greatest pricing flexibility) decline some of the L postcodes based on their claims experience. And this is why we check the area before wasting your time going through an entire quote. It comes down to the digit after the space in these postcodes and depends on the overnight parking arrangements. That should have been explained to you and I believe the Manager you spoke to afterwards confirmed that it hadn't been properly explained. Insurers change their criteria frequently based on their claims experience and other factors, therefore, it may be the case that we can offer you a competitive quote at your next renewal. Sorry we couldn't help you this year.

Also, to put your mind to rest, the water pump is at the over end of the engine and is belt driven by its own small belt, if that belt breaks the worst that will happen is that the engine temperature will increase, so not a big problem and that small belt probably has a longer service life as it only drives the water pump. I don't mean to alter your way of thinking, but the cambelt in this family of engines is not considered by VW Group to have a defined service life - like most previous cambelts in other engines, it should be examined at every service after maybe year 5, and action taken as and when it shows signs of wear. I have been examining this belt on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS at every service since year 2 and it still looks "like new", my original reason for checking things in that area stems from some few people having issues with the inlet camshaft assembly securing screws slackening off, I plan to leave off changing that belt until 7 > 8 years and so 50K miles have passed, and not waiting until that belt shows signs of aging/wear. The listed 5 years/**K miles change period stems from improvements that upped the previous cambelt change from 4 years/##K miles, VW Group marques will argue that it makes more sense to hand out one set of instructions covering all models, instead of handing out engine type/version bespoke servicing advice/instructions. Changing that belt at 5 years could be the safest option but quite a bit of overkill for that exact family of petrol engines, VW Group should be monitoring what advice their approved workshops world wide is handing out to customers and not just allowing them to be taking as much cash in as possible.

No. The water pump has been relocated well away from the Cam belt path, so it can be replaced independently when needed.