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Vrs ordered march 21 has now left the factory . Not sure how long its going to take to get to the dealers but first bit positive news ive had since i ordered the car .

Final update after a couple of days. The dash battery light issue where it would stay on until the engine is revved is fixed. Just to help others, I checked all of the wiring that can be suspect under the car to the front of the gearbox and there were no cracked or broken wires. I installed a reconditioned alternator fairly easily. The plastic connector block and main electrical cable connection was rotated more clockwise compared to the original so a tip is to loosely install the lower fixing bolt to allow the unit to pivot towards you allowing easier connections of the cables then rotate back into place before installing the upper mounting both then torque up the bolts finally. Now on starting the car, the battery symbol goes out straight away so no revving needed now!

Hi all, just a quick update on my order, i was informed it was in build 22nd October and today I was informed build is completed and it's at Emden port awaiting a boat to bring it to the UK. It's the Octavia VRS Estate, Petrol, Dsg, Quartz Grey with sunroof. So it's been about 3.5 months from placing order to production being completed. I'll keep everyone posted on progress. Fingers crossed it arrives before Christmas!

Stop posting scary photos Lee! 😉

Yip, don't touch the 2gb/32gb

I personally usually use the sharp centre punch method if the tool hole has rounded out. It can be a little trickier on these smaller headed screws but I've never had it not work.

Thought this might dispel a few myths about C/C, just trying to be helpful. 10 Tips on How to Use Air-conditioning Properly - ŠKODA Storyboard (skoda-storyboard.com)

Colourful sunset this evening.........

I have no issues with a single fog light... it's the single offside reversing light that bugs me and is a stupid idea!

I like to leave all my fog lights on, to make sure people know I don’t drive the entry level spec model. Like and follow for more life tips.

Hi all, Skoda driver since 2015 but first time poster. I’ve just changed from a 2019 Fabia to a 2020 Scala 110 TSI SE (so 16 inch wheels). All good so far, but I have a question about tyres. Basically, although it is used, the Scala only has 2.5k miles on the clock (I gather it was a press car sitting in a locked down shopping centre for most of 2020) which is a hilariously low number of miles to think about changing tyres. But: It came with Michelin energy savers which I *hate*. The grip is poor in almost all Scottish conditions, and I wouldn’t even say they’re whisper silent or so good on MPG that it remotely makes up for it…but this is based on 210 miles of driving. I was looking around, and I can get the latest Vredestein Quatrac (not to be confused with the older Quatrac 5s or Pros) all seasons in XL for £64 a tyre, or the non-XL Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons gen 3 for £73, both of which is *much* cheaper than they would have been in the Fabia Colour edition’s size. It’s fairly mild around here, but Scottish winter can throw you a curveball, and 5c wet days at least are common. Like most cities, there are a load of potholes here too, plus we sometimes head up a hill in winter for some walking. So I’ve pretty much concluded all seasons are enough, as I’m in an apartment with no place to store dedicated winters, but I was wondering your opinions on whether the XLs (stiffer and more durable, but with alleged noise, comfort and fuel economy trade offs) are worth it? XLs are usually more expensive, but this XL set is £35 cheaper and the reviews of the two brands/models are comparable - but XLs usually only *required* for cars much heavier than this. Clearly putting up with significantly increased harshness for several years is a bad deal, but if a pothole or two costs me £75 every six months, the marginal fuel savings will be long gone. Some people say they can’t notice XLs being noisier or harsher to ride on, others apparently can. Thoughts and opinions gratefully received! PS: As noted, I’ve only driven this around a city for 200 miles so far, but the start/stop won’t engage citing ‘high power consumption’. Has this happened to anyone? Was fine on the Fabia. I figure the battery may not be optimum if it didn’t turn a wheel for so long, but it was serviced by an approved used dealer a week before I took ownership, so not sure if a fault… Thanks in advance etc etc

I haven't been too active during the last months as things have been pretty busy both at work and at home on several levels, but I felt an update was long due and so here comes a last, much deserved write-up... PART 1 - ROAD TRIP After a few failed attempts, lot of hesitation and procrastination, during summer I finally managed to do the road-trip that I was longing for since I got the car and (as it turned out) the one every Superb is built for: nearly 5000km across Europe, all the way from southern Sweden to Greece and back What a trip that was. Blasting down Autobahn and other European highways with all comforts turned on, car staying planted and smooth even way over 200km/h that kilometers were disappearing so easily behind us in hundreds. First thing I realized driving a modern and gadget loaded car for such a long distance was that while I didn't actually lower my attention and focus on the road, that thought that IF something unexpected was to happen, the lane assist, the adaptive cruise, the emergency brake etc. would provide an extra safety net (as it happened once) took some of the mental stress off and allowed me and my co-pilot to do 1500km in just the first day and still get out of those wonderful SportLine seats around 23:00 without feeling exhausted or unable to continue by any means. I was truly blown away by the comfort at which we had travelled despite the fact we were keeping as high a pace as realistically possible. Originally the plan was to judge how the trip developed and plan the night's stop on the way but at 1000km we were both feeling quite fresh still, 1200km the same and so we continued to the next big city on our way clocking a nice and round 1500km on the trip odo in just 14:40hr of drive, around 3hr of which were stops and customs/borders controls. After that, the remaining 1000km seemed like a piece of cake the second day and so it proved to be. Another point worth mentioning: the car was tuned with REVO stage 2 map, loaded down to the last cubic cm in the boot (first time ever that I managed that), not running the recommended intercooler upgrade for stage 2, and was continuously accelerating to higher speeds when road conditions allowed (including a few top speed runs at the Autobahn) for 14 hrs and yet, it didn't miss a beat / ever go over 105 C / or act unusual in any way, what a testament to both the gen EA888 TSI and the optimization of the tune that REVO has accomplished 👏 As people who have been following my past threads know I was already a big fan of the car but upon completion of the trip, I realized I was really missing out a very important and impressive aspect of this car until that point, which was the way it can cover miles at such an astonishing (especially when price is taken into account) pace and comfort that one (myself included) would think is only appropriate of premium German sports saloons. In the end I was so thankful I went ahead with this plan for our vacation this year or I wouldn't have got to fully know my own car. Boot packed (literally) and ready to set off, there was stuff even in the spare wheel compartment... I s "Necessary" top speed limiter removal confirmation at some long and relatively empty Autobahn bit. The picture is so clear and steady it feels almost fake but it echoes what I mentioned about smoothness and high speed stability. I let off gas at that point but I swear it had some more yet to give, crazy all things considered... First night's stop. Consumption was closer to 9 - 9.2lt/100km before hitting some huge borders cues, which for our pace / power / weight I believe was incredibly good. Just stuff you can't do with an estate 😄 Part2 to follow...

The outside diameter of either 205/55R16 or 215/55R16 is too big for the Fabia MK3. 185/65R15 or 195/55R16 is as big an outside diameter as you can go on the Fabia MK3. 185/60R15 tyres fitted to 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 rims is a standard fitment on the Fabia MK3, so maybe try that size...although the higher sidewalled 185/65R15 would provide even more comfort. 215/45R16 does give a "relatively" hard ride. 185/60R15 or 185/65R15 will be a lot better. If you want to stick with 16" rims, you need to change your relatively wide 7Jx16 ET46 rims to something narrower such as 6Jx16 ET35 (from the Skoda Scala) and fit 195/55R16 tyres. Steel rims are also available in this size and offset. However, the 15" option is better for comfort than the 16" option, but 195/55R16 on 6J rims is still a big improvement over 215/45R16 on 7J rims. 6Jx16 ET35 5/100 57.1 https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/kolo-z-lehke-slitiny-nanuq-16-pro-scala-kamiq/p/654071496B+8Z8 6Jx16 ET35 5/100 57.1 https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/kolo-z-lehke-slitiny-nanuq-16-pro-scala-kamiq/p/654071496C+FL8

As a younger lad mk1 octy black no hesitation!, now a little older and having recently seen a mk1 lemon yellow glide past at dusk with those blue tinge headlights and original 17s powder coated white it looked fantastic! Ageing so much better than same era golf or anything in my opinion😎

My old English Teacher once hit a reindeer in his morning commute and the police woman who came to attend to it told him "Well that'll be christmas cancelled then. Your students won't be able to look you in the eye."

I'd also be happy with Cayman GTS, F Type V8 or a freshly washed reindeer

What's your onlyfans?

Yeti is back in the UK without any apparent mishaps. It’s been popped up on the ramp for a quick look underneath. It’s not pretty….. Sourced a differential from a 2015 Yeti with 36k and with a 6 month warranty.

i have today or tomoroww manual lsit coding how to what coding stay wait

How about " Faulty electronic handbrake" followed by " Hill hold assist unavailable" and the yellow warning light appearing in central display. Engine switched off, restart and fault is cleared. Skoda dealer has checked the car and said it had had a sporadic fault logged in the computer. Been ok now for past two weeks. Let's see if it happens again, still got warranty so not too bothered.

sounds like a blocked eustachian tube. its a little pipe thst connects the ear canal to the throat to let pressure through. theres a jaw exercise you you do that will help it release

Having recently gone back to a manual, I have to say the concept of "gear change delay" just does not apply to a DSG , especially upshifting in S with the throttle buried on the floor. Looking at my logs I was shocked at how much time is lost during gear changes in my manual compared to a DSG which essentially accelerates in a continuous and relentless fashion.

I am with you on this. Retired and tight like me! Just didn’t want you to slip up etc.

Suddenly in city (traffic) my Felicia started to have much more fuel consumptipn than all the other years. Especially from starting point till the temperature comes up to the propel lever i felt that something was going wrong. Smell (fumes) and sort of white smoke much more time than it should be. TC-6 is a board computer, among others shows the instant fuell consumption no matter if it's idle or top speed. You can see mine here: Maf-Lamda-temperature temperature sensor are new, throttle is clean,battery is good, valves and spark plugs are ok. I "raise" my Felicia with synthetic oil so maybe she don't like the semisynthetic that i was using for 2 years. 😋

John makes some good points and showed I'd put a wrong figure for speedo error. Depending on the tyre manufacturer 185/55r16 might not be recommended for a 7" width rim, that tyre size calculator shows it as for 5-6.5" rim and only a nominal 5mm extra to sidewall. This year I changed the tyres on my car ( not a Fabia) from (don't be scared now) 145/80r13 to 155/80r13 and because of supply issues had to have a more comfort than grip tyre but the improved ride comfort over the poorly maintained English roads is very much appreciated.

Was that taken at Arnold Clark Toyota/Peugeot in Ayr?

Lol, another fine example of just because you can doesn’t mean you should. What a mess. Anyway, just give the number plate lates a secondary function of being a traffic signal.

Welcome Why on earth would you want the number plate lights to blink with the indicators? It makes it look like the car has massive electrical issues! Anyway, as always, I'd suggest you start by posting a full autoscan from VCDS and an adaption map from 09...

There have been many reports on briskoda of the OBDEleven apps making incorrect coding changes - so I think it would be prudent to upgrade to the Pro version and manually make the required changes yourself.

ok thanks, I will go that road. Cheers

I had spec'ed items missing from my factory order. The spec you sign for is then transcribed into the factory order system, so open to error. Quote below from communication with Skoda "All orders are usually manually imputed by the sales admin staff at the retailer. This should reflect the order that the sales person has taken and discussed with the customer. The sales person, I believe should also check the order that has been placed correctly, as there is the opportunity for any amendments to be made, before the order is frozen for production by the factory. This is usually 2 weeks prior to build." Although in my case one item was originally ordered and someone at the dealership later removed it! Missing spec was not apparently picked up at PDI. Suffice to say very unhappy with the dealership and no intention of ever going back. The missed spec was subsequently supplied, sort of, and not a big enough of a problem to cause me to reject the car. If you're interested in finding out where things went wrong, I had a lot of help from Skoda Customer Services - [email protected] / [email protected].

You can feel the lights on them burning through the back of your head...

My MX5 is 26 years old and still going strong. No third brake light but it does have a separate fog light

Hello, I introduce myself my name is Juan, I am from Chile and I am the owner of a Skoda Fabia MK3, I hope to learn in this forum of details that I want to do to the car and any other curiosity that Skoda may cover

Sounds like a lemon car, unless you got it dirt cheap, if not then I’d ask for a full refund and go elsewhere, sorry. Having said that you really need to get it scanned and see what the errors are, that many issues makes me think if it’s had a front end crash and maybe didn’t connect things back properly. You should be able to look at the light cluster which isn’t working and see if everything is connected, as I believe the eyelash lights have their own connector (might be lying though) It could also be the battery went completely flat and need codes clearing as I’m sure someone on here had loads of issues after changing the battery but they did clear eventually. Hopefully it’s something simple as new battery + battery coding changed, but having been stung in the past before I’ll only ever get from proper dealerships now. Reading your original post and this one has made me feel sick, so I hope you get to the bottom of it or full refund, but I suppose if you’ve bought the car expecting issues that’s okay, if not I’d get a refund

It’s a wannabe Cupra - they do say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery! 😇

I know, nearly choked when enquiring about mine the other day!

I suppose that why the setups are between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn where there is loads of sun shine. Scotland is perhaps the most wind rich country in Europe but this year has been oddly weird, an Atlantic La Nina or something as wind has been lowest in 50 years. Tidal and wave power are much more consistent and reliable though one might need to store for more like a fortnight rather than half a day. My source of cheap electricity is nuclear as that is where those power stations are whacking out tens of Gigawatts and very low prices after midnight until people get up for work. The pump storage stations in Scotland, Wales and Norway all feed the UK grid as well as nuclear here and in France. Lots of plan to increase pump storage in Scotland as well as battery storage stations to temporarily hold as this made power that needs a storage place for a few hours or maybe longer. Some may use their EVs as temp storage place but I doubt I will even if they pay me a few pence per kilowatt.

What a bummer ...

Heat it with a blowtorch, then try. Back and forth, back and forth.

Inside I’ve insulated pretty much everywhere although will add some more foam under carpet when all interior comes out again, added a rcd 215dab retrofit, front feelart speakers and a pillar tweeters added with gloss black up trims and Octavia mk3 vrs steering wheel and Audi TT front leathers. Rear will have a stern performance rear seat delete with brace and netting it’s on order

I thought I was been clever,I handed my Volvo lease car in a month early.it was due it's annual service at over 460 pounds and it was just about ready for a new set of tyres at 150 pounds each.so making a 1060 pound saving.what a fool I was ,here's me thinking and was told I would have my car 26 September 2021.6 push backs now 28 February 2022 if am lucky and no car apart from my wife's car that my sons has knsckered up whilst we have been away on holiday.just hope he has sorted it out by the time we get back 29 November but I won't hold my breath.we live at least 5 miles to nearest shops and well over that for doctors etc.now the dog has dropped down dead so this year is not a very good one for me.surly it must get better in 2022 and just maybe get my car that year.

Thanks to you all. Freedie. Unfortunately the newer (mine's a 2017) don't have that reset option as you describe. Only INFO and BACK. I don't know anybody round here with VCDS but I'm still looking for ways to remove this service warning which is more of a nuisance than anything else as I physically document all my servicing, and have no intention of selling the vehicle anyway. So thank you all you guys for your help. If I DO come up with an answer to it, I'll post to help others. And finally JR... You know, for a retired 75 year old guy with the usual number of nasty life related injuries, both mental and physical, and a great interest in my servicing, I don't think I do so bad. So your life history is not relevant to me. Not in any way. It was just a personal attack. And all I asked, was a question........So please don't respond to me again. Thanks but I won't reply to you again. You'll understand one day. Be kind. Not confrontational.

I think mine took about 2 turns. I can only assume the previous owner was happy driving around without being able to see properly in the dark.

The best way to warm an engine is to drive the car. Idling slows warm-up, and potentially washes the bores with petrol.

Break in miles No Its been hovering near it for months now i've just not been out driving it enough to get it over. Chassis still feels stiffer than the montes before it got the brace and i'm not sure how.

More tidying up on the EvryMod front: It has a switch now, was turning it on and off doing pulls and its amazing how much of a difference it makes even on an sdi. Must make an insane difference on a tdi. Even still driving this and then getting into my mk2 makes that feel much faster in comparison.

I'll have a think of what I might need and get back to you. Getting a northern one or a uk one isn't as big of a problem for me, what I would do is register it in the north, strip it and scrap it and put all into my car. Genuinely would work out much much cheaper reshelling a vrs from the north than buying one of the very very few southern vRS', or importing one. Never seem to find any running fabias of any sort around here anyhow. EvryMod was done this evening, while I'm still fine tuning it theres definately a noticeable power bump from it. Pulls much better now and especially I've noticed it making more power at the top end. Don't worry this is only temporary, I plan on putting the potentiometer into one of the blanks to make it a little neater. I'll add a switch to the ""circuit"" too to turn it completely on or off at will. Pic of my horrid wiring, When I was stripping one of the wires it broke so I had to put a connection on it to join it back up. With this mod you join the potentiometer to the wires to pinout 2 and 3, there are proper connectors you can get to do this properly but I didn't have any handy so... I'll tape these up and "weatherproof" them a bit better next day. First video I took a while back of this car idling away normally. Then, with the EvryMod installed but set to the higher end of the potentiometer. And then with it set way down, running very rich. Took it out for a bit of "fine tuning" and testing. Was an absolute riot, car pulled very well, cornered well with the coilovers, seats did a great job holding me in and all.

I think it's down to how computers store numbers A value of 127 is 100% and a value of 100 is ~79%. That being said, it's been suggested that the brightness will depend on both the type of light set and the brightness number. Namely that with: - halogen lights there is no difference between the 100 and 127 settings - LED lights there is a difference between the 100 and 127 settings Until someone gets a scope to check the PWM duty cycle it's hard to confirm this and it may also be dependant on the LED driver. I was hoping to find a graph online of lumen output vs PWM duty cycle for a halogen bulb but my google-foo has failed me

I have just taken delivery of this iV to replace my Petrol Blue TDI