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The only trouble with Hancock tyres is they only last half an hour.

It was generally about things that Fly today.......... Also came across this duck with which was twice the size of all the others!

Clumber Park was lovely in the late afternoon sun............

An unexpected visitor just now. I think s/he must've been hiding, but got warmed by a sunny day behind the glass. It's a beautiful clear Winter's day outside, and has just made it to the dizzy echelons of 3C. Let it out the window as it was going to damage itself fluttering against the glass and blind: Gaz

That doesn't seem too bad for a bigger garage to do it. Bear in mind that 20% of that's going straight to the Downing Street drinks cabinet, and garages will use their normal parts supplier and mark the part up (because they're a business and they sell stuff) rather than spending an hour on ebay to find the cheapest and sell them on at cost. Most of on here would get the bits and use tools we already own to do a pair on the driveway for £20, but not everyone works that way. It's not a complicated job at all. Maybe see if there's a mobile mechanic by you, or a back street garage? Or if you fancied having a go by yourself, it should be easy enough with a trolley jack, an axle stand, a hacksaw and a few spanners (normally easier to cut the old ones off than try to undo them).

Fab what a nice bit of sunshine can do for the soul. From a gentle ten mile ride this afternoon (gentle because my tyre noise changed in the shady areas and I realised I was on frost, some of it icy underneath): The Alsatian's a local dog I see lots. He's happy as larry as long as he's got a stick. Camera's not too bad on the new phone. Gaz

Pardon?

I assumed you were already microdosing...

That readout is not accurate and can be safely ignored.

You can do, but if you've managed to back the nut off half a turn, you can get a hacksaw straight on the thread, so it doesn't take much effort at all to saw through them. My point is it's not a job that needs any serious tools.

I reckon the duck could well be Leucistic?

My view is that this is really sensible. You really don't need to suffer with that infotainment system! Hope you continue to enjoy the MK3 now it is sorted.

I'll keep GT-85 in mind. I'd like to try it. Someone has good ears yes haha Was it in the video? I didn't know that. I was about to tell you something else. There is a compatible part in those trucks with our cars. The expansion tank cap! Who would have known that? Now the story first; All of this below are not solid info. Just what I've heard from various sources. I've kept hearing about the expansion tank caps in our cars were unreliable. The first original Favorits had a metallic cap which was reliable also they had 100kPa rating. The later plastic VW caps are either 120 or 140kPa. That's %40 more than the original spec. With only a sliver of info about Ford Cargo truck expansion tank cap might be compatible with our cars, I've visited a truck parts store to physically test it before buying. It turned out to be true. It fits. It's clearly stated 100kPa on the cap too. I've been using it since that day. It's been near 7 months. How long will it last? I don't know. I know, seven months is not enough for a long term review. This is just FYI. I'll add a pic.

When I tested the blue wire at the back of my radio it didn't stay live so I just spliced straight into the yellow or red switched live, I can't remember which, it was a long time ago.

The following have transformed my 220 - so much more fun, yet still so so cruisy n comfortable. - APR Stage 1 ECU tune (up to 316 hp now) - Eibach Prokit lowering springs. More responsive suspension feel, less swaying. Including a DCC recalibration to match. - Hardrace rear swaybar. Car stays flat while cornering. - 034 motorsport dogbone lower insert. No more wheel hoping, and DSG shifts r more crisper n faster. Next up is a DSG tune to round things up.

Update: I had 46 kilometres with the old Ecu-chip and the old coolant (with non proper antifreeze mixture), i have made some changes and i run another 60 kilometres. Meantime i was looking everyday the TC-6 and i was happy seeing some progress, yesterday i made a refuelling although the sneaky employee tried to put more after the click of the pump. My Felicia had an average fuel consumption at city traffic of 9,5 lt/ 100 Km which is not only good news but leaving me optimistic for better results because now everything is as should be (i have the proper coolant, Ecu-chip updates, Amsoil additive, TC-6 better adjustment plus a recently Ecu reset) so i am in agony for the next refuelling. A two years suffering period goes to end.

Thanks, I’ve done a lot of that. i ‘may’ have an engine available late March, but I’d prefer to get this sorted before then. I’ll keep hunting. Thanks

Double pressing the lock button quickly will disable safelock which also disables interior monitoring and anti-towing protection: The alarm will still be active but will be using fewer protection methods, these are listed on the page I previously posted in the alarm trigger section

Mine was seal from pump to bottle, replaced both, fiddly but easy enough with bumper off….. reckon you could check by peeling arch liner back

I wouldn't go for shortcuts. Do it by the book. What may appear as a time saver, it will bite you in the rear later. Buy quality replacement parts for gaskets, liquid gaskets, bolts, nuts,etc. Be methodical and attentive to details. You do the head gasket job once for many years to come.

Yes the prop doughnut links the prop to the haldex so does spin at a speed relative to the wheels butthe difference in gear affects the torque that the doughnut is transmitting and therefore how it reacts. On the octavia i could cruise at around 2300 rpm in 6th and the noise was horrendous underload but tailed off on the over-run. If it was dropped into 5th at exactly the same speed the noise pretty much went away under both load and over-run, but drop the speed to 2300 rpm and it would start again but much quieter. Put it back in 6th and accelerate to about 85 and the noise stopped. There are two doughnuts one at the front and one at the rear and on mine both were perished but the noise started when the rear one failed. It took me a while to decipher what the issue was and I did wonder about tyres and DMF but eventually narrowed it down and had a local specialist check the drivetrain. They confirmed the doughnuts were shot and also that they had experience of occasional similar issues on Audis.

Thanks guys for your replies. I took a look under the arches and found the above blue blocks forcing their way through the rubber gaiters. They have torn the outer gaiter to shreds. Took my car back to Skoda, with a handful of blue blocks I had managed to ease out of the coil spring. The service manager looked shocked and informed me that they wouldnt have left them in, lol. I told him that I certainly didn't put them there. They took the car in immediately and removed the remaining blocks and also booked the car in to replace the rubber gaiters. I can't believe the difference in how it drives now.

I am feeling very very lucky today. My dealer called me for receiving the car tommorow at 15.00. SEL 1.5 dsg with leather , Camera , and HUD . Order 10 September Confirmed beginning of October Produced week 51 Of course there is a catch , the price increase was 2000 € (I had an open price). The 900 for the car and the rest 1100 because the master dealer in Greece decided to lower the corporate discount. I did a claim and they gave me 500 back. It seems now in the shortage Skoda and the dealers sell less cars and they want to pass their profit loss to consumers.

Maybe they should have included fiddling with stupid touch screen in car controls as something that wasn't permitted.

I took the liberty of translating Pedro’s message: ”Sorry for my writing. Today I tried the new 95CV Fabia and I liked it a lot, I put photos of the car and I tell them that I bought the one they had in the exhibition, they will deliver it to me next Thursday, it is the same as the one in the photos but it will be with six speeds and 110CV.” We definitely have our first MK IV owner!

Very happy with the mounts. So much nicer changing gears and a lot less drama putting my foot down. Slightly more vibrations but not crazy especially this being a diesel. Wanted to give the car a proper clean and polish as I might be taking it on a long trip in a few weeks so want it looking smart for it. White hides the dirt pretty well, but in person it was rotten. Took it out to use the pressure washer as it has a strong mix of TFR in it. Exhausts looking grimy Took it home and left it for the night. Jacked up the car one side at a time to wash the arches out, and give the drums a coat of paint. Drums looked rough, just gave them another coat of metallic grey after I was done with the arches and let them dry. Arches cleaned up nicely. Didn't need to be perfect I was more worried about getting some mud off of everything. That arch cover cracked on the bottom some time last year, think it happened over a bad speed bump near my house. Weirdly this was when it was on standard suspension so not low by any stretch. No proper after pics but the fronts cleaned up well too. Brakes got a bit of love too. Not much of an after pic lol. Hindsight tells me I should have gave them a coat of paint to freshen them up, still came up well however. Bucket was brown by the time I was done. Swapped wheels front to back as I didn't want the fronts running any lower. Gave them a deep clean while they were off too. Rears are like new, You'd hope they would be considering they're only on the car from the start of November. Wheels on I backed it into the garage and got to work. At this point I just wanted to get the car done so theres not many photos here. What I did was: -Polish the exhaust before touching the paint. -Wipe down the car again to get any dust off it. -Detar the paintwork (Including the door jambs) -Went around the car with Meguiars ultimate compound. -Wiped the car down to remove any extra compound I had a hard time buffing off. -Moved onto polishing the whole car with Meguiars ultimate polish. -Again wiped the car down to remove any excess polish. Always have a hard time with buffing the megs ultimate stuff, but its what i'm used to. -Went around and gave it a coat of Poorboys world White diamond and Black hole glaze where appropriate. -Finished the car off with Collinite 845, never tried it so wanted to see if it lived up to the hype. Was told that it only takes a tiny amount of it to do a whole car so I changed the cap to one off of an empty bottle of meguiars ultimate liquid wax. Helped me limit how much I put on. It is astonishing how little of this stuff you need. Put it on thin and its a breeze to buff off too. Car came out great. Some before and afters: Rear: Wheel: (Since I swapped them front to back the drivers front now has the roughest wheel out of the ones I painted.) So far I've been very impressed with the Collinite, It takes very little to do a car so it'll last forever, its much cheaper than my previous favourite Meguiars Ultimate liquid wax. It went on and buffed off much easier than the Turtlewax hardshell paste wax which is what I most recently used. It beads better than anything else I've used and apparantly it'll last for a long time too. Supposedly combining collinite with menzerna powerlock is meant to make it last even longer and give it even more gloss. Nonetheless just the collinite has done a superb job.

If you’re going to buy new Skoda wheels buy from the accessory list and not normal part number. Same wheel but soooo much cheaper on the accessory list

They still do them, and they were my cover of choice for years on my old iPhone 7. They have stopped doing a full cover with an incorporated screen cover. Most have an open front and you fit a screen protector. They have a wallet type cover now, but the clasp is rather cheaply made and breaks very easily. I gave up having them replaced eventually and moved to the spigen for my wife’s phone as well. spigen full cover on my daughters 12

Ah ok. From my own experience this is exactly what you will be getting! Even including BMW 330d,s my Karoq is just about the best car I have ever owned and fits all my criteria.

I think it was around early to mid-December

I use my Drop Link Nut Removal Tool

I totally understand it's not optimal for all situations. Just wanted to share my experience.

Well, if it is the slave, the one fitted with the clutch change was defective (but very much the right thing to do).

Yeah, still use one through a big pair of cup headphones when I'm on the tractor. The iPod fits in my top pocket better than a phone does, so I don't need a trailing cable.

Just as an update to my spring replacement last year: all good. Handling is great after 4 wheel alignment, sag has gone, and towing a caravan much improved. Brilliant advice on here as always. I’ll be keeping my Scout for a few more years now!

I will grab the chance: not too many but yes.

Im thinking MY19. My MY18 retains driving mode.

Real world! Sales rep / car salesperson type use heating and ventilation for just a driver in a car. Around 200 miles without all seats occupied in the cars.

Nice video I'm concerned now that the actual aerial cable does need replacing and one main job I have left to do is to retrieve my head lining so I think these 2 jobs eill be done at the same time once it's a bit warmer.

Perfect as long as you carry a bic pen or a pencil incase of emergencies.

Yes the WD-40 company is another large very invasive American corporation, like Coca-Cola, both own very many brands so you could be buying different labels but from same company. WD-40 Company took over/bought-out the original GT-85 company so GT-85 is now another WD-40 Company brand and product (like 3-In-One). A small can of WD-40 Multi-Use in the glovebox or boot is great for emergency use when out and about (but a can of GT-85 would be better) but more appropriate lubricant(s) are best kept at home / shed / garage. Is it difficult to order online and have things posted in, though I too prefer to buy local when I can, what about cycle shops for GT-85, that's where I first found it in the 1980s. Hylomar and Innotec are in Europe with wide distribution.

I have a Spigen geo armour 360 on my daughters 12 and my 13. Works very well for touch and protects the entire phone, screen and all. Highly recommended.

It would be still be fast either way. Now it is just super fast. 😁

https://cplay2air.com/

Nail on the head! The reason my family isn't 2 EV's is because I'm not spending £45k just to have a long range car parked up on the driveway to be used for a few long journey and occasionally commuting (WFH most days now). I have an older Octavia because its depreciation is very low and I don't trust UK's public charging infrastructure. Last time I needed charging, someone sat on Morrison's rapid for over 1 hour, near my destination where I spent an hour. Plan B Electric Highway chargers were offline. Plan C Shell charger had a Renault van on slow AC and said he'll be there for another hour. Plan D Shell charger doesn't appear on their official app, and had to phone to get a charge started. Milton Keynes is great, I wouldn't hesitate driving my EV there. I also happily drive towards Braintree and surrounding area thanks to the Gridserve charging forecourt. I would NOT dream of driving anywhere else outside my home range in any EV's other than Tesla. When I first got my EV in 2017, it wasn't like this. 2 rapid chargers were plenty. Now, single or dual charger locations are pretty much useless, liable to queuing or out of service. At no point in early 1900's people thought "I know, I'll put a single petrol pump unattended, somewhere random." I don't understand why it's okay now. Sorry for the rant.

VED needs put on EV's and ICE vehicles by length / weight / width because they might be reducing emissions but not congestion. To me Road mile charging on vehicle weight of private and business use passengers cars makes sense if big cars are going about with just a driver.

The reality is that we don't have enough electrical generation capacity to replace fossil fuel, not by a long way. Two things will happen over the next 10-15 years: ICE will be increasingly marginalised through taxation policy to indirectly fund the infrastructural investment required for alternative fuels, the net result will be far fewer cars on the road, they will become more expensive, and there will be hybrid autonomy / public car share transport schemes in major urban areas. There will likely be a mix of powertrain tech application; some H2, some EV, some PEM. Where you need range and high energy e.g. commercial trucks, rail etc, then PEM makes sense, for aero substituting kerosene with H2 makes sense, for small city cars, EV makes sense. The challenge is to move from brown hydrogen production to green, but that requires a massive shift to renewable electricity generation and nuclear. All of this before we consider the land grab issues around forecourt space that's required to service EV recharging and/or local H2 production.

Splash screen is just a question of coding. Pls post VIN on PM so I can see what is the unit and let you know available options.

You'll run out stuff to do as soon as you stop looking for stuff to do. Eventually you're going to have to start talking to 'er indoors again...

All that fuel being used on the regens, some of it will be finding its way past the piston rings and into the sump oil, I recommend you keep a very close eye on the dipstick level and change the oil if you see any increase or a decrease in oil comsumption if your car was a drinker before. The fuel is injected during the exhaust stroke and does not combust until it reaches the bonfire in the DPF, some will find its way to the sump, thats the reason I am looking at all avenues to reduce the frequency of my regens, an emissions fix roll back will be the most effective I feel but since covid my journey profile has become short local trips, that will soon change with my moving to another area.