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I think today was my lucky day. I found the little f**ker! Underneath the passenger seat is the control unit thing with the black plastic cover. I pulled this off (which I have done before) and decided I'd also pull the control unit out to see what was underneath. I then found a broken zip tie, which made me wonder if someone had previously run cabling through here and cut the zip ties So I then proceeded to pull the carpet up next to where the plastic cover would be (as pictured) After poking around a bit, I felt something metallic that didn't belong there..............WTF??????? The cause of my near insanity over the last few months is a.....coax connector?!?! In fact, it is a BNC coax connector. Most likely scenario is the previous owner had a UHF radio and they (or the dealership I bought it from) kindly left the connector as a gift when they removed it 🤬 Took the car for a spin and sound is definitely gone! Thanks to everyone who posted on this thread. It's great to see how helpful people are on this forum and truly appreciate your input. Cheers!

Yeah a tonne of those! I've got perforated leather upfront so will have fun poking it all out. Will post a before and after

The OP is based in Portugal !! so I don't think your link would be prepared to travel that far 🤣

It is a leak, "misting" is just a BS term they dreamed up to avoid warranty claims. And before anyone links to a shock absorber manufacturers site talking anout misting being normal don't bother, I have already read it and it was even more of the brown stuff with flights of fantasy saying that the oil vaporises. Even the shockers on grass track racers dont get as hot as a chip pan and they only vaporise oil at the point of catching fire. They will mist (leak!) until there is no more oil left to mist (leak) at which point your car will ride like a clowns car in a circus, thats what happened to my 2015 one and the transition was very sudden.

Hi, everyone. I’m Tooble, from Manchester Coming straight off my sinking ship of a Peugeot 308. I’ve gotten myself an 2015 Octavia Elegance 1.6TDI looking forward to interacting with you all!

You have to love Hat Boy Harvey 😎

Sucsess! Car came with CarCare warranty for 12 months, Faintree in Telford had it in and have managed to get the warranty folk to pay for them to do the add-on upgrade. Hopefully no more irrelevant alerts! 🤞

Here's a video for the bonnet release lever....

Here's a new hinge with the threaded hole for the inner bolt clearly visible....

I've gone for the gliptone cleaner and conditioner and a bottle of the APC

So WBAC are offering 2k more. id pay a few pennies to get a glasses price as that’s what a dealer will use as a reference. In your situation I have walked before.

They are off the back of the chrome door opening levers. I have stuck mine back on with contact adhesive.

I feel your pain...

Yes they did a little walk around video and the contact area on the inside of the disc look awful to be fair. Heavily scored and then wide bands where there is little if any pad contact taking place at all. I've just independently bought some replacement discs and pads (Borg Beck) for around £85 and I'd be surprised if a local garage can't fit them for an hour or so worth of labour. So overall a likely >50% or £200+ saving compared to Skoda's price quoted.

See edit above about date on panel, that may affect decisions about what to replace. These are the ten rivet positions:

Depends on what you mean by "few points per liter", but in my case it seems to be around 0.5l/100km. Test drove manual and DSG versions on the same route, in same conditions, mix of city and highway. 0.5l/100 is roughly 7-10% (in my case), so it's rather considerable difference i would say. Manufacturers tend to do more crazy things to achieve 5% savings Also mHEV need some getting used to, to use it's potential. Anyway i wanted DSG, and this is only possible combination. Price difference between manual and mHEV in Poland was the same, as with other cars between manual and DSG (without mHEV), so this system is kind of free for me I like it a lot.

Clip on that connector is often broken during removal as it's hard to see and reach, plus people not realising there's a technique to releasing these (push connector on while releasing latch until click is heard, then pull off). May be a case of getting an intact connector and splicing it onto the existing wires.

Stunning road trip to the Lake District

Oh, I forgot - unless things have changed(?) Tom's got a VW Polo if that makes any odds clutch wise. Tom, Tom turn around, now who sang that, not Brotherhood of Man, . . .

One of the advantages of a hydraulic clutch is the hydraulics compensate for wear and so the pedal biting point stays consistent throughout the life of the clutch, if the clutch gets to the point of slipping the driver will get the sensation of a higher pedal biting point as the slightest depression of the pedal will exaggerate the slipping. Your guess is incorrect my friend, I don't want to play top trumps on our age but I was born when the Mk1 cortina was still in production. Thanks for your research on my posts, I rarely post unless I have experience of the issue as there is to much misinformation going around, I have owned my Mk1 VRS for 13 years (130,000+ miles of use ) and I also maintain another persons Mk1 VRS, during this time I have done 5 clutch changes, 2 x concentric slave cylinder changes and 1 x clutch master cylinder change on them and so pretty familiar with how they operate and what they are like to drive as they wear down. The troll issue comments I have made in the past have been directed at one person that is know on this forum by anyone that has been on here for a few years, he has had lots of clashes with members due to his abrupt style of comments, I am quiet surprised he has not commented on this thread to be honest. Anyway was fun reading your comments, have a good day

Just a quick update on my situation. So I took the car in - thinking the tail light cluster was going to be replaced......No..... They wanted to see the issue themselves - so as expected when they had the car - the imtermittent issue was not present, and I left the garage....With the same issue. So, I thought the next time this happens I wouldn't switch the engine off. Luckily this did happen again during office hours and I drove straight to the garage. Bingo - they could now see what the issue was - not sure why the previous visit didn't show up on their plug-in computer. Anyway, as this was under warranty they agreed to replace the tail light cluster and also found the one sensor that was faulty. All done now. Was just a little disappointed that the garage could not find the issue first time. All sort now. Thanks for all your replies couple months back. Jay.

So......I've got a 69 plate Skoda Karoq 2.0TDI 4x4, now done around 30k miles in the car and wanted to share a few experiences with those thinking of buying one. The Good One the road the car has been spot on. Nice to drive, good level of comfort and never a moment where the car has missed a beat or got into a pickle which could have had consequences. It's also pretty economical with the trip computer often suggesting that I've averaged 47 or 48mpg between tank refills, but also could do with more 'ooomph' for overtaking. So overall on that front, yeh its not been a bad motor at all. The bad Brakes - in 30+ years of motoring, 10+ brand new cars and 15+ nearly news of all multiple makes, models, values and configurations....this is the first car ever where at sub 20k miles the dealer has said that the car needed new discs and pads at the front. Typically I'd normally expect 45k to 50k miles before they even get a mention, but on the Karoq less than 20K. The dealer could not explain why, I told them that I could.....and it could only be quality of the components being significantly lower. There are no other explanations, as everything else is pretty much the same including other 4 wheel drives which still went 40K+ miles before brakes needed a mention. Anyway.....a quick £377 earner for Skoda just for the front changing. Just a little less for the rear I expect. Door Locks - yes I'm one of the many who has been locked out of the Karoq whilst their keys were inside as was my mobile phone......and blocking someone's driveway as I nipped out to open their gates. 3 hrs of life lost, and an damage waiver signed whilst the AA guy prised down the side of the door and went fishing for my keys. When I asked Skoda, why did I personally need to sign an damage waiver when it was Skoda's product at fault and failing whilst under warranty. Hence what other option existed for me at the time? Anyway, responsibility deflected towards the owner of the faulty product, rather than the creator of the fault. 2 faulty door locks now ordered, and set to be replaced. Get yours checked before your warranty expires!! Alloys - Yes, I also have black Diamond Cut alloys and all 4 have the dreaded white worm where the outer lacquer is flaking off. The two rear have been proposed by the dealer to Skoda Warranty for replacement, and the two front are a sore topic because of slight stone chips are a 'get out clause' where Skoda warranty will reject the claim......even though the stone chips are absolutely no where near the area of the white worm flakey area, warranty invalidated. As I explained to the dealer in comparison......if the front of the wing had stone chips why would this invalidate a claim of rust on the rear of the same wing? Panoramic Sunroof - Who would have known that after 2 years they want to give it a service. I can't remember the quote but it was getting on towards £300. I bet I haven't opened it more than a dozen times, that's nearly £25 per go, not a chance of me paying £300 for a sunroof service. Another hidden cost not mentioned when buying the car and as tight Yorkshire man I did ask when buying! Service intervals - When I bought the car from new I specifically asked to be put on the long life (approx 20k miles) service. But no....got to 9k and the lights were calling me in for and oil change some more spend. Again I asked to be changed onto the long life, as per my original request. But no, got to 19K and the lights were calling me in again......no need to tell you which lights are now showing once again at 30k. Key Fob Batteries - Yes they don't really last much beyond 6 months, and they often show no signs of a fading battery.....just a dead battery at the most inconvenient time and place. And if you believe Skoda they insist the replacement battery must be one of their own....not a Duracell, Energizer .....only a Skoda Battery will do. Complete cods wallop ofcourse!! DAB Radio - It is the least capable DAB tuner that I've ever experienced. I get less than half the stations which I do in my other car parked right next door to each other on the same drive way....and it doesn't improve on the move either. The Ugly Amongst the many cars that I have previously owned there have been at least 6 or 7 brand new Skoda's in the past since my first in 2002. The big draw towards giving Skoda a chance around 2002 was the then JD Power Surveys and claimed customer care. No quibbles, they wanted and appreciated your business and this was reflected in their regular top 10 places. Sadly not any more, and they seem to do anything and everything to make money out of each existing client and sadly product quality has slipped massively. I live around 1hr away from the Skoda dealer, so each time I go there I lose a minimum of 4hrs if they can't do the work whilst I wait (there & back to drop off...there and back for collection too). Each time they need the car for a day before ordering warranty replacement parts, and of course you then have to come back again ............thus time doubles due to the return visit for fitting or rectifying. The car owes me 20 or 30 hrs, of time that I've simply not had to give during the ownership of any other car. I work for myself, so as annoying as this is, I can find the time. However, for those who don't have this flexibility I really feel for you, because sadly you'll need to give your Skoda dealer lots of time and money during your ownership. I can't see there being another Karoq for me on the horizon anytime soon....perhaps not even another Skoda either. Somewhere out there is another hungry car maker who appreciate their clients much more than Skoda currently do, with quality to match also.

Assuming from your photo, as you haven’t given a location, that your yeti is LHD. You would need to consult your manual for fuse 6 ( rear wiper) location , as the diagram above is for RHD.

I think you've misunderstood what those channels are and what they are doing...? There are 16 channels, called Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_0 to 15. These are the different profiles, each number matches to a specific profile and has no relation to the ordering or availability on the headunit. 0 is always doors open 1 is always comfort 2 is always normal 3 is always sport 4 is always off-road 5 is always eco 6 is always race (cupra thing?) 7 is always individual 8+ I'm not sure about The value of each adaption channel specifies the colour it should use. This is taken from the RGB colour list so the colour shown will depend on how those channels are configured. For my car when I made those notes: 1 is white 2 is orange 3 is red etc etc This will match the ordering of the colour wheel shown in your headunit in 'manual' colour select mode. I think all 16 channels need to be none zero which is why I set all unused profiles to 1.

Close the window, release the switch then hold switch up again for about 5 seconds. If it opens before you get to the second part see if someone can have a hand on both sides of window to assist it closing.

No, items 8 and 9 are the hinge to body bolts.

The workshop manual and the parts listing https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2003-225/8/831-831010/ only show a single bolt holding the hinge to the body

Haven’t tried it , but it looks like you pull out the red locking catch, then push down on the central black button and pull out connector.

VAG don't provide a change log with each release. Usually they don't add features, but always exception's where they load something missing. If you can find Software Train I could look for possible updates

Varooom, they were on the floor in the back which fits with what Urrell has just replied. Thanks people, I will stick them back on with contact adhesive. I knew someone in the hive mind would know where they came from.

https://www.drive2.ru/l/465522504035730405/ (has photos step by step) and here is the video:

I will go for that pete lol fingers crossed its just the case of plugging in lol

You'd need massive ones if you wanted to use the original holes, if you drill new holes you can use whatever size screws you like.

VIN?

Okay I think I posted that last message in the wrong place lol. Still getting the hang of this. But you get the gist!

My 2018 car came with ambient lighting and this CAN gateway: Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels:| 3Q0-907-530-V1.clb Part No SW: 3Q0 907 530 L HW: 3Q0 907 530 C Component: GW MQB High 436 4326 It didn't have the 'automatic' mode for colours to start with. Looking at my notes, I flipped byte 11, bit 7 in the CAN gateway. I then changed these adaption channels in the BCM: channel IDE09731-ENG154513-Int. light: 2nd generation-Ambiente_Farbwahl_FPA_waehlbare_Kopplung adapted from not active to active channel IDE09731-ENG154514-Int. light: 2nd generation-Ambiente_Farbwahl_FPA_waehlbare_Kopplung_Status_hmi_default adapted from active to coupled channel IDE09731-ENG154511-Int. light: 2nd generation-Ambiente_Fahrprofil_Individual adapted from 0 to 7 channel ENG153712-ENG154602-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_0 adapted from 0 to 1 (doors open) channel ENG153712-ENG154603-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_1 adapted from 0 to 8 (comfort) channel ENG153712-ENG154610-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_2 adapted from 0 to 2 (normal) channel ENG153712-ENG154611-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_3 adapted from 0 to 3 (sport) channel ENG153712-ENG154612-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_4 adapted from 0 to 1 channel ENG153712-ENG154613-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_5 adapted from 0 to 9 (eco) channel ENG153712-ENG154614-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_6 adapted from 0 to 1 channel ENG153712-ENG154615-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_7 adapted from 0 to 1 (individual) channel ENG153712-ENG154616-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_8 adapted from 0 to 1 channel ENG153712-ENG154617-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_9 adapted from 0 to 1 channel ENG153712-ENG154604-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_10 adapted from 0 to 1 channel ENG153712-ENG154605-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_11 adapted from 0 to 1 channel ENG153712-ENG154606-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_12 adapted from 0 to 1 channel ENG153712-ENG154607-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_13 adapted from 0 to 1 channel ENG153712-ENG154608-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_14 adapted from 0 to 1 channel ENG153712-ENG154609-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_15 adapted from 0 to 1 ` There are 15 profiles as that includes all the possible profiles from other cars as well, for example offroad, race and snow etc... At this point, the ambient lighting, dashboard and headunit colours would change when I changed drive mode. The only issue was individual mode would cause a disco effect and constantly change between two colours. To fix this, I had to flash the CAN gateway firmware (and parameterise it). After the update it became: Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels:| 3Q0-907-530-V1.clb Part No SW: 3Q0 907 530 Q HW: 3Q0 907 530 C Component: GW MQB High 436 4344 Once this was complete, all modes including individual work as expected For reference, my BCM is: Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels:. 5Q0-937-08X-V2.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 937 084 CQ HW: 5Q0 937 084 CG Component: BCM MQBAB H H36 0253

As far as I know the TPI firmware and software updates for the DSG can only be done by VAS and the VAG garage. They will have a record of it if you pop in to your local VAG garage and ask for a copy of the complete service history I suspect it will be recorded in there. I might be wrong though. Others will have a definitive answer on that one.

Well just had an hour or 2 with my son to try and get to the bottom of several problems which i will update on the other posts I created, we traced the wires back to the stereo, for some reason the wires that feeds permanent live was cut very close to the stereo harness not sure why they went to so much trouble but I'm glad they were obviously not very electrical savvy, we will purchase a new stereo anyway, the good news is the main stereo harness is intacked. that's one problem off the list

There is the rub. If it looks the same as '711 and has the same fixing arrangement it does not mean it is truly compatible. Ask them why they removed the label. Ask them where their compatibility list came from. My instinct says that because it is the same size and shape they have guessed it is compatible.

With Travel assist activated, it does show you cars in other lanes and responds to them switching lanes accordingly. With only ACC activated it does not.

It's a company car so I want to strike the right balance between having a clean car and sinking money into something I don't own On the lower door plastics (sills and lower speaker grills etc) my issue is I can scrub them etc but they always look like they've got some ingrained dirt. I just want to clean that off, I'm happy to do that regularly if it works

@Bap33 Fahrprofil_0 is the colour you want when the coming home lights are active. I think there is provision for 15 modes to cover VAG vehicles that have different drive mode numbers. I haven’t tried doing this yet, but what you have done is what I would try.

I understand perfectly how a clutch works, thank you. I've been fitting and repairing them since we were all still driving around in MKIV Cortinas which, I'd hazard a guess, was probably well before you were even born. A new clutch will have a higher biting point than an old, worn one, and the biting point will move down the pedal travel as the clutch wears until even when the pedal is on the floor the clutch will not disengage. Just exactly what is wrong with what I said? Looking at your profile you seem to accuse a great many people on here of being trolls, but it would seem the troll, my friend, is you......

PPF: 1100 EUR for the whole front + mirror caps + stripe one the roof above the windshield + behind all door handles + top rear bumper protection. Ceramic: around 650 EUR for the whole car + rims

Second hand values had been going up not down. Have you tried we buy any car or similar places to confirm the value? what does Parker’s or glasses guide say it’s worth?

build of MY18 would've commenced from July 2017. likewise MY19 would've commenced from July 2018. and the the pattern continues. urs being Oct 2017 build, it would mean u have an MY18 then. mine was built Mar 2017, hence i have an MY17.

I'm just waiting on that older daughter getting back to me with the prices Arnold Clark are offering to charge for a brake fluid change, rear discs and pads change and a from E-diff or VAQ fluid change, then I can offer up "my plan so far", the trouble is, I have been put on her insurance for that Cupra and so far I have not bothered to try driving it, it has DSG and this is an old dog maybe not needing to learn new tricks! But if I did ever get brave enough to drive it, I could either take it out to my garage when she is not needing to use it and sort things out, or take it to my favoured VW Group Indie and let her pay for his services - I'd rather the Lotus driver came out and helped me a bit when I'm sorting out that Cupra, maybe cleaning up the mess after changing the E-diff fluid as I believe it smells a lot more than older gear oils! Though I'm sure that his interests as far as car stuff is concerned, lies at home with his Espirit, or E Spirit as the classic insurers call it! Then there is the younger daughter in London, their first car has touched its first kerb, so much distress, I'd rather that they sourced a spare wheel kit instead of worrying too much about returning that kerbed wheel to "as good as new" - but I'm failing on that front!

Cheers. My installer is an authorised installer to but I'm going to call them in the morning and see what the score is. If you have any ideas what the kit updates are please let me know so I can go better informed.

Hello I also have a VRS MY2014 with high oil consumption... On highways it burns from max to warning on dash in about 400-500km I bought the car in 2018 with 147k km and now I have 207k km. The oil consumptions is rising over the years. I had a oil leak between the head and the modular part that houses the cams. The oil fill cap is always wet from oil and now I think the seal on the belt side of the crankshaft started to leak. Doea anyone else have this problem. I'm thinking piston rings. I made a compression test and got valuea that are on the low side of the ok parameters Piston 1 is 26bar Piston 2 is 25bar Piston 3 is 24bar Piston 4 is 25bar The haynes manual says the range should be 25-31bar and the engine at least 30 degrees celsious And the maximum difference of 5bar Absolute minimum is 19 bar The car does not smoke but the DPF git clogged. I took it out and cleaned it with a solution if water and HCL. Then rinsed it with a high flow of water. The celan was great and the regens that we happening all the time are now 600km appart. But the filter will get clogged up again if I don't fix the oil consumption issue

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