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I ordered a SEL PHEV in Feb 22 with a delivery estimate of Aug 22. Last thing I heard from my Dealer was accepted at factory but no build date yet. The should get a build date by the end of the month, came and went. Having waited nearly I year I have chosen to write to one the Directors at Skoda UK pointing out my disgust at having been sent a power bank over the christmas period. I questioned if the was poor taste or a joke given my car has been delayed due to lack of chips and batteries. That aside, I have asked for a delivery date with a high probability of achievment and for that individual directors assurance that the date I am given is met. I think having waited almost 12 months without accurate information is extreamly understanding on my part ,but that the lack of information a disgrace. If they can't give me a date then at least tell me my number in the queue for Octavia PHEVs. Then each month tell me what my number is now. I had a conversation this morning with one of this directors outer office staff today. Outlined my views and what I wanted. I will let you know the outcome. when they get back to me in a couple of days. Regards to all those waiting for an Octavia regardless of powertrain may your order be fulfilled soon. Thanks to all those who share their information via the spreadsheet and keep it updated for the community. BRS

I thought that I would update you on this as I have fixed the car. As discussed above I bought an exhaust pipe front to back so 3 bits, the single catalyst front section and the 2 silencer sections for the rear end. All purchased and delivered for a remarkable £182. They were fitted and the car drives nicely now. The forensic examination of the exhaust showed that the centre catalyst was clean and solid whereas the front catalyst was partly blocked as can be seen on the photo. It is clean on the downstream side. The new exhaust pipe information sheet indicated that this is possibly due to incorrect fuel or poor running. Well it does burn a little oil, but only a little. Attached is a photo of the top of the front cat through the hole it bolts onto the manifold. I am pretty sure that this part blocked catalyst prevented full revs and confused the engine management unit as the inlet manifold pressure sensor and throttle body positions were way different to the map in the ECU. Thank you for your help and advice and if anyone else has such an issue they can shortcut to the solution.

Thanks, I knew the new battery wasn't knackered, but that's the route they took with the diagnosis, and they were the experts. The new battery was coded in with VCDS, the screenshots are from the torque app. I don't leave it plugged in permanently was just looking to see what the voltages are on the fly. Thanks for those pics, trouble is unlike the majority of posts on here, I want my stop/start to work, rather than disabled. Actually, I just want to get to the bottom of the problem.

Picked it up yesterday, now the slow process of bedding it in begins 😬

With the roads as they are, please be very vigilant of large potholes hidden by water. My advice would be to slow down or stop and not charge through standing water. My wife took out two tyres on our Superb as she couldn’t see the water filled hole. I went back a few days later and the council still haven’t filled it, One unlucky chap split his rim.

Is it suitable for charging an EFB type Battery? The EFB batteries want a little more/higher voltage than a normal battery needs to charge up. Thanks. AG Falco

Its like night and day, no more floating or leaning.. The ride is pretty much the same so thank you spring for breaking, its the push I needed to do it..

Suggest you go to a competent auto electrician. Seems the dealer is just guessing and throwing YOUR money at the problem.

This guy used a cable tie to operate the flap .....

That's on the mirror face - as it reacts to light from behind the car...

I have taken out my 4x4 a few times each week to give it a run for a few miles. Not bothered that there is no heating in the car unless going 10 miles or so. The leather seats are quick heating, and need switched off within 1 minute, but i will never have a car in the future without a heated steering wheel.

It’s a case of each to their own isn’t it really. The VRS model should have an exhaust note, the mk4 is far too quiet IMO. Sure the other Octavia models can be as quiet as a mouse but why promote your top spec vehicle as the “sports” or “hot hatch” and make it sound like a vacuum cleaner? Just my ten pence worth 🤪

OK glad that worked out I used the Hella part. Attached are the photos of replacement - the scuttle panel is split in half and lifts up pretty easily without taking the wipers off (on RHD anyway). The electrical connector just needed a bit of a tug and I got there in the end removing the clip. Pics attached.

@Breezy_Pete Seems you did something good @VanhireBoys (you can type the @ symbol and then write in the name to tag a user) And to all else that made contributions. 🤝

Hi All Well we got to the bottom of the problem ! As Breezy Pete have me a really good line up ! We went for the ABS pump connector and it had 12v on both pin 7 and pin 25 When we tested both with a H7 bulb we found that 25 would not light the bulb properly - So the deduction from that was the loom had broken down - Although there was 12v it could not carry the current required ! We replaced a dodgy section and all is now well again The Fabia is now of an age where these problems will start to surface die to degraded looms. Lads Thanks a million for your help - Again this forum has saved the day and got me another NCT 👍

I've had three punctures thus far in the first 3 yrs of ownership - each time I had to put the 16" spare on, and each time the ACC would get disabled. I've since got myself a full size 19" spare. ....and now that I have, I haven't had any punctures since!!!! 🤣

Had a call from the dealer yesteday informing me that the car has arrived. Should pick it up on Monday 23rd Jan, all in all it has been just over a year between order and delivery.

Re the bolts, TBH, I'd just order them from your local Skoda dealer ... at least they will be the correct bolts.

I was just looking at some old photos and found my last proper milestone. Oddly this was January 14th 2014 - just a few days between them.

Finally managed to remember to take the tripod with us and stopped off for a couple of Astrophotography shots on the way home🔭📷 PXL_20230118_183503054.NIGHT.mp4

thank you so much 💜

Great result and thanks for letting us know what fixed it. 🙂

Yeah I've fallen down on the manners front so if anybody has taken the hump I do apologise - I hadn't a clue how the tag feature worked !! Thanks again all !! We

I think that's their belief, yes. My worry is if they once again "fix" it, this time by bypassing the affected wire, and it still has a fault not sure where we would stand in getting a refund. Also means he'd still be without a car.

There is a silicone "Repair tape" on the market, which might suit your needs. I have used it on a radiator hose that lt go while towing.

Thanks a lot. I’ll give this a try tomorrow morning 😀

Skoda could make you wait until it has cleared newer more expensive orders, and has spare factory capacity, which might not be anytime in next 24 months. Alternatively might just build any remaining orders when they want to close production of the model, so can retool factory for next model, but that brings the risk that get a model about to be superseded. Sadly I think those with regularly slipping forward build dates are in a keep at back of queue scenario.

Fingers crossed that 5,000 km ago there was not enough oil put in and over the period since the low quantity as meant the oil was working hard and got to the stage of giving a warning. If the 2 litres added means it is now the correct amount in then all that you need do is see how that goes this week. If it has been running low oil for the past 5,000 km i would be replacing the oil and filter soon even though 2 litres has just been added. MAKE SURE IT IS NOT OVERFILLED. PARKED ON THE FLAT CHECK THE COLD OIL'S LEVEL.

I'm in Lancashire. They may have covered themselves with the ECU as my dad at the time made a point of saying well what if you replace the ECU and it doesn't fix it, their response was just we will come to some arrangement. They have come back to him today saying that they will instead of replacing the wiring loom they will bypass what they believe to be the affected wire. All sounds very fishy to me.

The goodies

thanks a million @weyland! Wasn't even considering this but now definitely will order and install - cheers

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'd give that VAG specialist a very wide berth if they condemned a new battery, new faulty batteries are very rare unless they have been very badly stored neglected and abused and even then you'd probably be able to fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger and have it working well in the short term. As a a time served mechanic you know what utter boll**cks and with what contempt some in the motor trade give and treat their customers. You could check that the new battery has been coded in correctly to "Fleece", Ah entered correctly and a digit change to the battery serial number at least. If you are sure the new battery is coded correctly as you have a machine that gives those lovely graphics you could try disconnecting the start/stop at the battery and see if things improve, some drive for years with it disconnected at the battery and it done no harm when I tried. I have no proof but I would not have any device plugged into the diagnostics port all the time or for too long, and are you sure it's a VCDS that gives those graphic as the ones posted up here that I see are horrible 1990s style computer screen look, seen Torque screen shots posted here that look more like that. To physically disconnect with hand and fingers the start/stop on my wife's 2015 Fabia you just disconnect the wotsit off the battery negative connector, photos below (not from my wife's car so ignore any other minor issues). ETA: obviously you'll want to secure the start/stop connector and its lead and protect male and female ends from dirt and debris. If you want to learn about the battery/alternator charging with (and without) start/stop you can plough through the information from here. - https://procarmanuals.com/ssp/

The Hill Hold Assist does its thing when holding the car and you go between the brake pedal and accelerator and holds for a few seconds. This is if there is not the e-Brake and Auto hold enabled. Have the brakes been serviced ever, and had a brake fluid change?

No. USB up there is only on the facelift Kodiaq - and it's on the windscreen mount bit, not the mirror itself.

The fans do work on all 4 speed settings. Upon testing again just now, I've noticed that there is a very very small change in temperature when switching from cold to hot (as in maybe 1-2 degrees, only noticeable if you really concentrate) ^ sorry, forgot to add as a reply

Totally must-have for us too. Leather seats are option. Heated seats are a must for leather seats. If not leather, as long as the material is easy to wipe clean and wouldn't easily stain.

A mk1 Fabia will not have a silica bag in the coolant. I presume that the fans work on all 4 speeds?

I'm going back to the 1980's here... When the throttle cable on my MG Metro Turbo broke I was able to get home using careful clutch control and the small amount of fast tickover possible with the choke and could even get it into 3rd gear on flat roads.

Some, especially early designs of direct injection gasoline engines, had problems with carbon build up in the inlet manifold due to the lack of the 'washing' effect that you get from indirect injection gasoline systems. This has been greatly reduced or eliminated by better design especially with changes to valve timing to reduce the likelihood of burnt gasses being sucked back into the inlet manifold. Some engines, like the 2.0L used in the Octavia III also have a combination of direct and indirect injection to also provide some inlet 'washing' effect. The 4.2L V8 direct injection engine in my previous RS4 was supposed to suffer badly from carbon build up in the inlet manifold but many owners, including myself, saw no significant issues even after over 80,000 miles so in my experience the problem is exaggerated.

😮 ... that's very graphic indeed !

Voltas cannot change it, except to warn users. No matter if it's manual coding or one click app. Whenever something is changed in 4B coding, one need to perform basic settings. It has nothing to do with OBD11, as same thing happens with VCDS or VCP. It's just how controller is working. But i agree, especially with one click app they should provide instructions on how to get your current settings, and how to perform basic settings (using your old values) after coding.

I think they now put stickers on to stop swallowed batteries burning a hole in the oesophagus re recent tragic incidents with children. As long as you stick to a named brand from a shop with a high turn over, you can buy them where you like. The factory supply mostly Panasonic button cells. So to avoid disappointment, steer clear of no name cells from a pack which has an inch of dust sitting on it from a flea market 😉 Also ensure you fit it the correct way up they only work one way round, there is a plus symbol moulded on the fob, but just try flipping it over if the LED (if fitted) doesn’t light up.

I was asking mine two weeks ago and they dont know nothing. So I was writing mail to Škoda directly and beside some "automatic" reply, which is probably just copied from some one mail to another, info is, that we will be called out by our dealership... So we will probably need to wait a little more... I am still hoping, that skoda will not tell us, that we will lose it completely..

😂 It is a diesel, 2.0 PD 170hp, with almost 260.000km. In this pic, she had just got out of the place she loves the most: the mechanic shop 😂

Well it was -4 this morning and traveled my usual route to work having previously filled up with 99 ron momentum and my car is running very smoothly at lower speeds whilst cold. So on conclusion my car runs better at all temperatures using higher octane fuel. I'd advise anyone whom is having cold running issues with the 1.5t engine to try some higher octane fuel.

I've never done this, but recently got the rear coupling changed. I chickened out and and got my local village garage to do it. They struggled until they moved the diff/haldex unit back a bit in the rear subframe in order to engage the centralising spigot in the hole square on. It was a close non interference fit and would only engage when square on. Perhaps, if you have not got enough clearance to move the propshaft back, engine forward enough you won't be able to insert the spigot into the hole. Perhaps you could try releasing the centre bearing assy and perhaps "kink" the prop shaft enough to get the spigot engaged - I don't know, only a suggestion if you are getting desperate!!

No excuse necessary - that looks like a very commendable freehand sketch 👍

Today I bit the bullet and placed an order for yet another Kodiaq. Can't see past them. Number 3. Taxi. Skip truck. Holiday bus. Chauffeur drive taxi. All in one. And hard to beat for value for money. I really can't face paying More For Less - no matter what "more" might mean. Whether with a Skoda badge or any Premium brand. Surprised myself by placing order with nearest dealer. From whom I bought my first Skoda (Superb Estate) in 2011. A week ago I thought I had a deal stitched up with a very efficient and friendly online leasing agent. But - it all fell through when the "price was reviewed" next day and jumped to match dealer prices. So today I drove my first petrol Bear demo car to confirm my suspicions that I would feel short changed in 1.5 Kodiaq. 2.0 TSi SEL for me. ps - example pic added Had forgotten how quiet the petrol models are. And nicely responsive when you press the Go pedal. The Demo was a Race Blue Sportline without any useful extras - just playing "fur coat and nae knickers" as we say north of the wall. I need to replicate my useful toys - DCC, VC, Virtual Pedal and Winter Pack. Having enjoyed a lovely red one, I decline the £1,000+ Skoda ask for paint now and settled for FOC blue. Roll on summer 2023.

Anyone with any news about this problem?

True, but it's not integrated into the car, like OEM 😉