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As far as I can see (and in my own mind) it is not resolved at all. This will never ever be resolved until someone (consumer rights group / government) embarrass VAG UK / Skoda UK enough to make them change their "recommendation" which is baseless and expose it as nothing more than a money making exercise. or... the German government do someting to the mother ship to stop them allowing the worldwide subsidiaries taking the pith. That's it really. It's a con. The fact is that most owners are risk averse and find themselves caught between a rock (Skoda UK) and a hard place (buyers who see the recommendation and steer clear of a car that does not follow what they believe is the word of the "Masters" at the UK HQ of Skoda). We can all go around and around the merry-go-round at this forum and the other forums at Volkswagen, Seat and Audi until we are blue in the face but it will make not a jot of difference.

Either way, personal protective equipment.

This approach is also evident in VW group's MEB cars. Standard D mode aways allows the car to coast rather than brake via regen. Its very reminiscent of ECO mode on my old Karoq, which disengaged the engine and allowed coasting. I find D mode to be most economic on cross country trips, the B mode with immediate regen is too intrusive. However in urban areas B mode shines due to constant braking at roundabouts and junctions. B mode is also most economic in this type of driving.

I gave them to a family who had locked themselves out of their car and they were waiting in heavy rain for a rescue service to arrive. I usually carry a couple of ponchos or space blankets, you never know when they will come in handy. I have never been a boy scout but I was a first aider for 30years.

I would suspect the sensor first off. It is easy enough to replace and at under a tenner, not going to break the bank.

Skoda UK might have to clarify the Fixed Price Servicing & Maintenance prices as it is now very complicated and it is Price on Application for many things including Cam Belts. The Book time for the job on a 1.5 TSI ACT and the actual cost of the work and if VW Group will need to subsidise / assist Dealerships doing the work might be something they have to consider. Lots of vehicles will be in the Used Car market including in the VW Group Dealership market requiring the Cam Belt replaced and it is quite an involved job going through the workshops.

I nearly replied yesterday to say that I think people are basing their FUD on knowledge of cars gone by. A belt on an old car didn't always live very long 20+ years ago, and this influences the mind into thinking their expensive car will suffer the same fate. These threads are repeated all over the internet for the other VAG brands with the same circular argument. Rather like a snake eating it's tail, something has to give, we need Skoda UK or factory to finally put a stop to this, but I suspect not as written above... this is a licence to print money from the FUD that they helped to spread by making it a recommendation.

I keep a few emergency blankets in mine, just in case....

One from Powis Castle yesterday.

One that I also posted in my project thread. Decided to have a go with the DSLR today. Macro/close-up photography has always been my thing, so wanting to get back into shooting in that style again.

Welcome. That is what can happen, there is a Catalytic Converter but also a Gasoline Particulate Filter. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/508507-car-accelerates-quickly-when-cold-and-has-high-idle-if-you-switch-off-when-cold-and-restart

***cough*** Nearly the end of Feb ‘23… 😉

You can donate The Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity

I have decided the same thing, a sunroof is just not worth the bother. I've only opened it a few times in 9 years! And yes it's obviously a bad design and Skoda should have done something about it. I'm going to get some Gorilla tape and give it a try. I'll probably stick it on the paintwork if it's wide enough to do that, so the rubber seals are covered. Thanks for your advice!

As Crasher says, the column stalk is the culprit. The rotary switch is Off - Side - Main. The stalk selects which of the main lights operate, Dip or Full beam.

The column switch does the changeover

Either way, replace after 10 years, even if still sealed in the packet.

Any chance of driving one of the garages Scout's to see "if they all do it"?

Heads been fried trying to get things in order for all my current projects. Been busting my chops to get the Monte good for nct tomorrow on top of everything. Not wanting to stall on any car any longer, so even if I'm only making a little bit of progress on each car it's better than nothing

Frankly contactless should be cheapest as they don’t have to maintain an app and overheads. it is also the simplest and most reliable option. just my 2p worth.

So the grinding noise was the water pump, in fact the pumps shaft had that much lateral movement it was allowing the impeller to foul against the engine block. So wouldn't recommend a vika water pump from my experience with this incedent, but it is possible that it was just a one off manufacturing defect restricted to this part. The replacement pump is a mastersport from autodoc.

In the old days it was condom's in there 🥰

Hi all, Here is my yellow Octavia vRS soon to be turned into a track ready daily driver. Plan is to fit my old S3 engine (AMK on 90k miles), 6 speed box with quaife LSD, bilstein coilovers, fully polybushed, and 4 pot brembos with 2 piece 330mm discs. Alot of work ahead but should be a good track car when done and will be used as a daily aswell. Not going full track car with it as want it to be usable still although I know the ride will be somewhat harsh for normal roads.

Will try that at some point. May be I was over expecting after having a few diesel engines remapped and feeling the changes straight away, petrol do like spin a bit faster.

Fabia MK2 diesel engines Engine designation Production Engine code (family) Displacement, configuration, valvetrain, fuel system, aspiration Motive power at rpm max. torque at rpm Gearbox (type), drive Top speed 0–100 km/h [s] (0–62 mph) Combined consumption [l/100 km / mpg imp / mpg US] CO2 [g/km] 1.2 TDI CR 55 kW 2010–2014 (EA189) 1199 ccm, I3, 12V, DOHC, common-rail, turbocharged 55 kW (75 PS; 74 hp) at 4200 rpm 180 Nm. (133 lb•ft) at 2000 rpm 5-speed manual (MQ250), FWD 166 km/h (103 mph) 14.2 3,8 / 74.3 / 61.9 99 1.2 TDI CR GreenLine 55 kW 2010–2014 (EA189) 1199 ccm, I3, 12V, DOHC, common-rail, turbocharged 55 kW (75 PS; 74 hp) at 4200 rpm 180 Nm. (133 lb•ft) at 2000 rpm 5-speed manual (MQ250), FWD 172 km/h (107 mph) 14.2 3.4 / 83.1 / 69.2 88 1.4 TDI PD 51 kW 2007–2010 BNM (EA188) 1422 ccm, I3, 6V, SOHC, Pumpe-Düse, turbocharged 51 kW (70 PS; 68 hp) at 4000 rpm 155 Nm. (114 lb•ft) at 1600–2800 rpm 5-speed manual (MQ250), FWD 163 km/h (101 mph) 14.8 4.8 / 58.9 / 49.0 127 1.4 TDI PD 59 kW 2007–2010 BNV (EA188) 1422 ccm, I3, 6V, SOHC, Pumpe-Düse, turbocharged 59 kW (80 PS; 79 hp) at 4000 rpm 195 Nm. (144 lb•ft) at 2200 rpm 5-speed manual (MQ250), FWD 172 km/h (107 mph) 13.2 4.6 / 61.4 / 51.1 120 1.4 TDI DPF GreenLine 59 kW 2008–2010 BNV (EA188) 1442 ccm, I3, 6V, SOHC, Pumpe-Düse, turbocharged 59 kW (80 PS; 79 hp) at 4000 rpm 195 Nm. (144 lb•ft) at 2200 rpm 5-speed manual (MQ250), FWD 170 km/h (106 mph) 13.2 4.1 / 68.9 / 57.4 109 1.6 TDI CR DPF 55 kW 2010–2014 CAYA (EA189) 1598 ccm, I4, 16V, DOHC, common-rail, turbocharged 55 kW (75 PS; 74 hp) at 4000 rpm 195 Nm. (144 lb•ft) at 1500–2000 rpm 5-speed manual (MQ250), FWD 166 km/h (103 mph) 14.1 4.2 / 67.3 / 56.0 109 1.6 TDI CR DPF 66 kW 2010–2014 CAYB (EA189) 1598 ccm, I4, 16V, DOHC, common-rail, turbocharged 66 kW (90 PS; 89 hp) at 4200 rpm 230 Nm. (170 lb•ft) at 1500–2500 rpm 5-speed manual (MQ250), FWD 176 km/h (109 mph) 12.6 4.2 / 67.3 / 56.0 109 1.6 TDI CR DPF 77 kW 2010–2014 CAYC (EA189) 1598 ccm, I4, 16V, DOHC, common-rail, turbocharged 77 kW (105 PS; 103 hp) at 4400 rpm 250 Nm. (184 lb•ft) at 1500–2500 rpm 5-speed manual (MQ250), FWD 188 km/h (117 mph) 10.9 4.2 / 67.3 / 56.0 109 1.9 TDI PD 77 kW 2007–2010 BSW (EA188) 1896 ccm, I4, 8V SOHC, Pumpe-Düse, turbocharged 77 kW (105 PS; 103 hp) at 4000 rpm 240 Nm. (177 lb•ft) at 1900 rpm 5-speed manual (MQ250), FWD 190 km/h (118 mph) 10.8 5.0 / 56.5 / 47.0 130 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Škoda_Fabia

@Gizmo If this is still going and used, can you add me please Newport/Cwmbran - GizmoThor8303 - HEX+CAN

Hello and welcome aw Agree with varooom's sentiment, although I think my 110AFN (i.e. pre-PD) was bulletproofer 😇 (that's a real word, honest it is) If I was flexible enough, I'd still kick myself to this day! Gaz

If the pictures show unit you woul dlik eto install then component protection can by solved by Skoda dealer but even SKoda delaeer might not be able to activate SmartLink - pls share VIN of your car.

VIN?

No that's me being bad at admin.....I did have a 1.4tsi on a 65plate but that was swapped for a Civic which in turn parted company for the current car. Should be right now.

@Grady funnily enough I too have a drive that inclines towards the front of the car and orginally put it down to the slope but it very occasionally happens when parked on a level surface. I was hoping it wasn't just me that had the problem but also hoping someone had found a fix @toot I do have at the back of my mind that if its a problem brewing I want it sorting before the warranty expires, we shall see what they say when its serviced next week.

Actually you can, it can be used as a basic OBDII reader on any make of vehicle, I think its one of the options on the home screen. But as you point out, if you don't have your laptop computer with you..................................

VCDS is good, it'll do most things you could ever want to do on a VAG car, and there's a lot of support out there for it if you want to know how to find out how to do something, but, it's not perfect. It's a bit on the clunky side to use, not always intuitive and relies on other hardware - not so bad since you can buy the later wireless versions and use them with a phone or tablet , but I do have direct experience of being broken down and having my VCDS cable, but not my laptop. There's also the obvious limitation that you can't use it when your mate's Focus throws up a light. The Gendan and TopDon stuff is also good, but you need to buy the right version for the level of diagnostic you want to go into. The upside is, it's all on one package, pretty easy to use without bothering to read the book, and works on anything with an OBD port (ours cleared a fault light on a Merc LGV the other day).

Could do, but the problem being they are all significantly later models. I accept that it's possible that newer vehicles DSGs behave in a particular way - say for emissions testing reasons - that the 23AX update might have changed my car to. That doesn't alter the fact that my car used to behave entirely differently. I'll be test driving some older 2 litre diesel DQ250 DSG cars in person. In fact, if anyone is near Nottingham with one and likes to be paid in homebrew it'd be great to take a video whilst you demo...

Most of the overheating faults reported on here have been down to the variable sleeve on the water pump being the culprit, rather than the thermostat.

No disrespect meant to your mate, but I think the point Ken's making is the Fabia is a harder job than the Octavia, for quite a lot of reasons, including space and the fact it's an electric pump. Make sure he's had a good look at things and a read and knows what he's getting into before he starts. Also make sure he marks up where the subframe currently is before he drops it, there's quite a bit of wiggle room / alignment adjustment on them.

Thanks for that. Considering adjusting the volume of the sound actuator as it gets a bit too loud when I'm putting my foot down to overtake.

Clamped into place, it's almost in the right position, just needs a tap with a hammer here and there. Started tack welding it in, using a broken seam / pulse welding so the weld runs around the complete repair. Hopefully your repair will as good as this, if not better. Mindful to keep the horizontal line on the sill as straight as possible. The patch is also attached through the plug welds to the inner sill, don't forget that one. Still got the lower edge of the wing to repair of course but that's a simple enough one. It stil needs more grinding at this point but I'm waiting on a finger grinder (power file) to get into the corners. Near impossible with round discs! And this one gives you an idea of how much the patch went in, I really couldn't leave the corrosion in. Once the wing is repaired I'll add the smallest amount of filler, prime and reseal the lower sill edge to keep the rust out. So that update with paint to come at some point but this is awkward job really, the rest is pretty straight forward really. Hopefully these pics give others an idea of what to expect and how I went about with the repair. Rich

Whether the headlight needs to come off depends, but it does make it a lot easier. You will indeed need to (re)move the bumper in order to remove the unit. Personally, I have only changed the sidelights once, and that's when I replaced the head unit with replacements and put all new bulbs in. The sidelights were a nightmare to get at even with the units removed, but then I also have big hands. I've gotten away with removing the top screws of the bumper and then pulling the bumper outward enough to get at the hidden screw for the headlight unit, but it may be just as easy to remove all and just take the bumper off completely especially if you need to do both sides. Either way, make sure you mark the position of the screw in the bracket, as this affects the up/down angle of the headlight unit as a whole.

You can get a cheap one from fleabay; around a tenner last time I looked but may have gone up a bit by now.

Another garage?

Well we have @ords whose car is still on it's original battery after 10 years, so any "issues" will be down to abuse of the battery. My own AGM 096 original battery was over 7 years old when I changed it prematurely as I didn't want to be stranded anywhere. If you want to hack the battery, my only suggestion is to code the Ah rating higher. Why? Because we had someone whose battery got coded as 7Ah not 70Ah and it refused to charge, as it was measuring "full" once programmed to 70Ah it charged, so by extension, you may have to increase the Ah rating above target to make it charge above 80% SOC. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT YOU DO THIS AT ALL.

If you are into your modifications, you could change that for a tray with door? Part 51, is your current bracket, maybe this could be swapped to Part 15.

Sounds like the plastic peg that connects the regulator to the window has broken. See Haynes Manual for photos and instructions. Not too difficult to replace.

This update is enabled by Google on the server side, probably per account. That's why you have it on one phone, but not other. AA version is not that important (as long as it's 8.6 or higher), same goes for headunit firmware - not important. Those who do not have it can only wait till Google will enable it, and no one knows what is the key here, as ir seems very random.

Hi All, Glasgow (UK) = polzky = hex-v2

So my apparently trained Vw mechanic couldn’t find the leak. Ordered an endoscope, removed the intake air temp sensor and had a nosey. Whilst looking inside a few drops of water rolled past the camera, so looks like it’s my charge air cooler leaking! Easy to check with a wee endoscope if they can’t get to the bottom of it.

You can check out the condition of the DPF using this app by a OBD tool like carista https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.applagapp.vagdpf&hl=en_GB&gl=US

Just coated and waiting to cure, so still in the garage, but came up not to bad.