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1,320 miles for £59.16 I forgot £8.00 on my house electric. £67.16 total charging cost. 6,716 pence divided by 1,320 = 5.08 pence a mile. Car costs £71 a week to lease. Advance payment was £1,000 because it was in the showroom and specced for that. Motability paid me £750 to order a new car and £250 good condition payment. Last year they paid in advance £350 good condition payment. .................. Past 5 months CPS account. £60 paid that was used, sometimes charging does not register and get billed or show as used & this unbilled outstanding but some of that £39.16 will be actually free charging & not due. Plenty Cable length & Dundee charging hub. No toilets though.

So encouraged by @JR RSI mounted front engine cover and center exhaust tunnel cover few days ago on my SIII 1.5 TSI DADA from 2019. Can confirm part number indicated by @JR RSare fine and there was no problem with doing the job (of course needed to get under the car). Can also confirm the feeling of smoother, less engine noise and better airflow while driving. No change with oil temperature but still waiting for some warmer days to verify this. Undoubtedly mod worth doing. Unfortunately couldn't take pics after doing the job.

Summary points posted somewhere else: Standard range 346 miles (not epa rated yet) Long range 423 miles (not epa rated yet) improved suspension 8% efficiency improvement 30% improvement to reduced road / ambient noise rear screen like model S plaid ventilated front seats removed stalks traditional horn more responsive and brighter screen improved bluetooth and wifi upgraded ventilation / AC system (more controls) 17 speakers, instead of 14 like prior model about the same price Text format: https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/new-tesla-model-3-brings-restyle-improved-cabin-more-range Good refresh, great they've managed to get more efficiency (thus range) out of the platform. Ventilated seats and rear screen are nice additions. Personally not sure about removal of stalks for driving in roundabouts.

I think it's 30 Nm

No stickers or anything unfortunately but from the plate I could gather that the vehicle was first registered in the Brighton area. I'll call their Health Board or NHS fleetsolution during the week and see if I can gather any information on who did the convertion.

That front end reminds me of basking shark lol

Switched out the rear indicator & reverse light bulbs for LEDs.

Booked my next annual service with a local independent garage. For the past six years, the only people to service my car is the dealer that sold it to me. I can't fault their work (Marshall's Croydon) but it is a 30-minute drive there, two train rides and a 45-minute drive home. My local garage has a good reputation, I have used them on previous vehicles, and the Big Red Bus is no longer under warranty. Oh yeah, the local garage is a two-minute walk from home. It actually takes longer to drive the car there! My first service with them will be a minor service and MOT, but I have asked that they give the car a very good look over. I want to keep the most reliable car I've ever owned in top condition at least until Mayor Khan makes it obsolete.

Hi, no one replied but just back from the garage getting the issue fixed so thought I'd update just incase anyone stumbles across this post in the future. I've attached pictures of the broken part and part number.

The fusebox is hidden behind the glovebox.

What's the battery like... They seem typical errors when a battery is on its way out.

The fleet! Rusty needed a wash so I thought why not do the work car too.

if anyone is interested, below is a PDF I created of the various code changes I've made to my Superb (MY17) over the years. whilst some instructions r done with VCDS, and others with OBDEleven, the steps r essentially the same regardless of the tool - just the screens look different. this will work on 2015 to 2019 Superb. it won't work on facelift (2019 after) Superb, or at least there will b differences, which i can't assist with. enjoy 🙂 Coding - Superb MK3 - v3.1.pdf

Being elderly is fortunate, I nearly didn't make it out of my youth, young men and motorcycles don't play well together!

Are they registered to update the online service history? just make sure you get the print out at the end to confirm it’s been added don’t want to spoil your full service history

Try and book it into an auto electrical shop. I'd have more confidence in them than a dealer.

Haha I've got that to look forward* to Oh aye, the thread hasn't fully finished yet, as the car remains unfinished. I may still document a little, but it won't be my own car anymore, but I also won't be away from it either.

Perhaps it would be worth taking the steering column apart and checking that the wires from the ignition switch haven’t been messed with as part of the run lock system

Thanks toot, yes I saw those threads after posting. That seems a fair conclusion! The RAC recovery driver knew what the problem was immediately and said he'd seen loads. I'll try the Skoda dealership that we bought it from, then Skoda UK, then a letter before action. I'll also report it to DVSA so they can send me one of what looks like their standard letters.

hello, warranty will be gone when you : clear error code or reset service inetrval, do something with mechanics work, and turn off start stop or seat belt.... other coding all safe because your car only has those things when you unlock them. you don't have to worry, we code 3.4 new cars under warranty every day and warranty not gone ... we coding new car skoda audi seat bmw and other .... dont wory

Yes ☺️

Chinese battery firms on slow running and multiple battery plants planned all over Europe, one here is Somerset and several, even two massive one planned by the Chinese in US to meet US origin rules and keep those EV grants, like the ones we use to get in the UK but do not any more hence the lagging UK car industry and being behind on the target to net zero.

Can somebody sent him the link 1798? Currently not able to sent

Hi, Thanks for your suggestion Expatman regarding writing to the MD; I think looking at my recent experience I'd just receive a standard reply given to all customers; the best thing I can do is learn from my mistake in being so gullible and trusting; I'll walk away rather than getting upset and annoyed; losing our business will hurt them more also we have friends with Skoda's who are now warned. Had I thought it to be a simple mistake I'd have gone in person to speak to the service guy in a respectful manner. We've also just paid for the two yearly brake fluid change; have they actually replaced it? Sadly J.R. I've come to the same conclusion and wonder if a postcode is taken into account as to the amount of rip off? I'll make it known to the independent when I visit I'm a mechanical engineer. Back in 2016 whilst giving our bungalow interior a full and comprehensive makeover we visited a fireplace company in Horbury Bridge called "Flames". Their guy came out to do the survey for the new high efficiency gas fire and he was impressed by work I've carried out over many years; I told him my background was mechanical engineering; his amusing and friendly reply was that he'd better let the installers know; two guys did an absolutely wonderful job being here for hours; I couldn't fault them or their work it's a pity others don't work to the same standards; anyone local I can highly recommend "Flames Of Wakefield". The Yeti wheels being so heavy take a lot of effort to refit them so this morning I popped over to Danlett in Huddersfield and as you rightly pointed out J.R. the threads are an unusual size; I wanted a bolt which would have an unthreaded section but all they had was Hex head set screws; I bought two these being M14x1.5x80 HEX SETS DIN961 GD 8.8. Back home I quickly modified them cutting the hex heads off leaving a threaded 55mm length; in the lathe I removed most of the thread to give a smoother length of 35mm; screwdriver slots were cut using a hacksaw and all sharp edges removed; These will now screw into the wheel hub allowing the wheel to slide on; they are a very loose fit in the wheel holes but I don't think it will matter; I'm unable to try them due to our wet weather although next week is forecast dry and warm. It's sad so few can be trusted these days; the new rustproofing spray gun arrived this morning but I'm unable to use it until the car dries not just on the outside but also inside the cavities which I think will take a lot of drying out; I want to complete the rust proofing as much as I can before the weather gives way to our very long winter. Kind regards, Colin.

I've had all of the issues you mentioned above, except the last one about randomly switching to a guest profile. When my car was with the dealer in June they told me they applied a large update to several modules in the car, plus another update from the factory to specifically address the climate sync issue. Apart from the infotainment reboots it did resolve everything. The jury is still out on the matrix lights as I've not really had a chance to use them during the summer, so we'll see. When they're activated you'll soon find out from other drivers if they're being dazzled. The issue with them was that they were configured for a left hand drive car (similar to the climate sync issue)

It would be a coincidence, but it could also be a bad solenoid...

Fan update firstly a big thanks to those who gave advice….. and that’s a genuine THANKS ’my guy’ went underneath to test plug as suggested and noticed after removing sleeving that two wires for outside sensor (not worked for over a year) insulation ‘ bubbled’ it not broken. Scraped of some insulation and wires corroded and open circuit. then took plug of temp sensor on radiator…… same issue. insulation ‘bubbled’ and two out of the three same as sit temp issue. no cuts to cables but wiring inside grey/green, brittle and fell apart. quite poor quality? No actually 13 years old 124,000 still on original clutch and 40/47 mpg so great car. thanks again. GerryH

Have you tried deep cleaning the screen at that point ? It could be a build up of residue on the screen which is preventing the blade properly ‘wiping’ the area. Try cleaning with a solvent then finish with a good glass cleaner. Worth trying before you go to expense of springs etc.

A series of 'unfortunate events' has severely affected any training continuity over the last two or three months so it seemed a bit hypocritical to be posting here but an on-line article piqued my interest. Pat Farmer, a former Australian politician, is literally running around Australia in support of an upcoming referendum for a change to the constitution. The stats are quite mind blowing: The 61 year old had covered about 10,000 km (as of the end of August) of the intended 14,000+ km, running between 65 and 80km daily he is going through a pair of shoes every thousand km or so. I'd say he has shoe sponsorship since he has 30 pairs available but thinks that 15 pairs will be used when he finally ends up at Uluru (formerly Ayres Rock) Obviously a man of immense stamina, natural running talent and belief in his cause. Is it wrong I'd like to know more about the shoes he has elected to wear? The referendum date of the 14th October was announced yesterday so by my calculations he may have to increase his daily mileage to 90+ km daily to stand any chance of getting to the finish before the event. Ultramarathon runner Pat Farmer clocking up 14,400 kilometres for Voice to Parliament - ABC News As far as I can see the only similarity between us is that I also find that a pair of running shoes is good for about 1000 km (about 1.5 years) before they are relegated to less arduous duties

To be fair, if it's only being used to jump start, I guess the only concern is will it or won't it..... and this one did just fine for me. For info, I used this a couple times and amazon had an offer on the next model up (GB40), which is actually rated for diesels, at the same price I paid for this base model, so I returned for free and traded up.

Just picked up my Sportline 1.5 pre-reg on 23 plate. Got a great deal, trading in my Octavia estate, and well happy. A few extra packs fitted and two free services clinched it. Oh, yes, and that fabulous colour!

I take it you have written to D M Keith Service Manager, with a copy to their MD, demanding an explanation as to why they advised new front discs and pads when the existing ones were perfectly serviceable? They owe you an explanation and you can tell them you were a loyal customer and ask if this is how they treat all their loyal customers. Interesting to see their response.

You could try turning it off in infotainment anyway. If it stops doing it, it might point towards the issue being a faulty sensor.

@JR RS I can send you mines if you want to compile them. I have some more: - Enable Ambient lights coupled with DCC Driving mode - Enable Easy Entry - Enable rain drops wiping on both front a rear wipers - Activate Emergency Brake lights flashing (on brake bulbs) - Activate Emergency Brake lights flashing (on direction bulbs) - Activate fan blowing speed in AUTO mode - Activate Off Road mode on Columbus - Disable DRLs upon hand brake activation - Adjust Autohold brake release (Early / Normal / Late) - Adjust Corner lights deactivation speed. I just need to translate them in English.

I've had this happen but it turns out the cat was moving under the rear of the car as I approached it.

Wish I’d read the last couple of posts first, it was an interesting read until the great anticlimax…. 🙂🙂

Wait until the kids have buggered off and you have so much free time you can indulge in all those frivolous projects you had in mind

sometimes we have to accept that time does not exist in enough quantity to fulfill all our desires... wait until you have kids and free time becomes a distant memory of a past life time

It's not rear 12 Volt sockets, but this guide about retrofitting rear USB ports into the back of the central console might help.

Try shorting out the thermoswitch, it should come on immediately.

I struggle enough with remembering how many times to roll the control knob for the mk3 MFD without looking at the Speedo. But at least then it's just the Speedo. The centre console is muscle memory or I can at least feel I'm not on the right button. Having to swipe a small MFD without looking and maintaining accuracy is going to be awful, especially given that sometimes a swipe may not work as expected. Absolutely stupid, clean for clean sake is foolish and, ultimately, dangerous. And that bloody screen is daft too. Build it in, why do you need a TV for maps ffs. Edit as if just noticed a "unique selling point" of "quick access to many functions". What is quicker than a button for that damn thing that you know where it is with a click to know it's been engaged. FFS. Another edit: is that a split opening arm rest? Why? The second worst bit about my mates A-class, close to the TV screen on the dash.

I don't like the way it appears middle dial controls fan speed, volume, driving modes, and others. Does that mean got to keep pressing it, take eyes of road to find what mode it is in, then turn it. I hate the idea of a volume knob that doubles up as other things, passenger wants to talk so accidentally turns down fan then shouts instead, how can anyone think this is good idea

I remember pre-mobile phones when you had to get information from the reference library, ask your parents to use the landline phone (only during cheap rate and for local calls) and knocking on your mates door to see if they were playing out. I even remember having a party line on the phone and having to ask the operator to connect a call.

Well, it made it more visible because it was all blinking like a Christmas tree, thus taking attention of other road users to your Christmas tree instead of paying attention to other road conditions and users, thus lowering overall safety. My opinion. Btw. I am quite sure car with this turned on should not pass MOT, at least here in Slovenia it would fail. If the visibility and safety is priority, the safe way is to lower drl luminosity when turn signal is on, as old Audis had. Thus turn signal is more visible, no Christmas tree and there is still some visibility of the drl led, thus also car is still visible. Again, my opinion. Or you can go full Turkish way with blinking rear brake lights, front fog light, etc. Though it doesn’t mean it is smart or nice looking, if it is possible.

Road trip to Wellington and back, Rusty performed well. I took the Azev wheels down for a guy who said he wanted to buy them then he ghosted me so I brought them back again! Stayed in a cottage in the middle of Nga Manu bird sanctuary which was awesome! Also brought back a Ford Courier gearbox which has done 250,000km less than the one in my ute Extra lowering demonstrated here:

Road trip prep...

God this thread is getting boring....