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There's a dozen comparable cars here that suggest yours may have a problem if that 11L/100km turns out to be a true average: Gasoline consumption: Skoda - Octavia - Spritmonitor.de Bear in mind that people who choose to put their consumption data on sites like that are more likely to be 'hypermiler' types than dragstrip heroes though.

Here are some exterior pics of my Skoda Octavia VRS. Just 2 week old.

@Adr85 I'd run a mile from this outfit! - at the very least, please get an opinion from a reputable mechanic.

Maybe my post do not complies with forum rules and I am so sorry if I'm doing something wrong, but this situation is really serious and against the warranty law: Skoda refuses to fix it, asks for money, with truly incoherent and embarrassing excuses although there is a solution! So I decided to do an upload of the 8755 software file in hopes of doing some good. I'll post the link in the next message so that at least these words can remain. The absurd thing is that many Skoda assistance centers throughout Europe are unaware of the existence of this firmware and they don't even know why. An assistance center, who learned of its existence through me, told me that in official documents 8755 results as compatible only with 695 hardware, but it is not true, as seems that some of you can confirm. The further absurdity? Swing Plus produced since mid-2020 already have the 8755 installed. You can find it by searching, in Google images, "8755 MIB2" or "8755 696", "8755 695" and so on: you will find external labels of the hardware showing the software number. Why are Skoda and VW doing all this to us? We should file a class action and seek compensation, also to avoid other similar problems in the future, but evidently it's one of those situations where solving it ourselves it's more realistic.. and costless. After having struggled for a long time in vain, after being blamed and being told that - the phone is bad or too new (later discovering that it is expressly declared compatible by Skoda) - our cable is faulty, buy another one - to buy the Volkswagen cable which costs a lot and is much worse etc. etc. , all without any written trace, other than threatening them. What a shame. 8755 firmware: https://uploadnow.io/f/3J8v0Br

Congrats on your new car @LuxoviaRS . UK fuel prices tend to be about double ours so I think even self-proclaimed revheads tend to ration their enthusiasm more there than they let on. Nonetheless your 11l/100 (Imperial 25.7mpg) is probably at the worse end of claims submitted for your type of car and driving environment. Probably a good idea turning off stop/start during the running in period (1500km ?) but I think your mechanic is being a bit alarmist about the possible long-term harm to the engine. The starter motor and engine are designed to handle it and the only possible casualty is the battery may last less than 5 years. Depends on how long you intend to keep the car really and then you have to weigh up the cost of relatively early replacement of an expensive AGM battery against the cost of fuel saved. Some people just don't like s/s and turn it off at every opportunity anyway but personally I'd give it a go and see what difference it makes and you will be making your own informed decision. Revs in low gears while fun also use a LOT of fuel. Sad but true. In hot Australian conditions in busy town conditions your car is going to use a lot of fuel, the air-conditioner going full blast, the engine cooling fan too. My 1.4tsi idling in temperate conditions displays 0.5l/hour consumption, on very hot days in traffic that can go up to 1.5L/hour. It would be interesting to know what your 2.0tsi displays at idle. On a highway run at 110kph you will probably get about 6.5 to 7l/100, probably worse punting along on the an enjoyable country twisting section of road

I've got the rear door handle lights on my Jan 2021 Octavia RS. But I thought everyone might find this interesting. A Russian owner has retrofitted rear light strips AND pocket lights. He has three part guide here: https://www.drive2.ru/l/647835000938439674/ It looks super involved, but the pocket lights look doable by the average DIYer. I might even have a go myself.

Good morning................

This is normal. Mine is Always on, when I start the car it also won't display anything until I set it. So no problems here

Thanks to everybody for their comments. For once I can make some comments that I haven't seen elsewhere. Firstly do not attempt to remove the trim. You are likely to do some irreversible damage. It is actually quite simple to adjust the striker plate. The only tool needed is a Torx allen style key size T50. A T50 screwdriver might work. In my case it would have been difficult to apply sufficient torque to release the tension. Access to the screws is obtained by unclipping two plastic cover plates. The attached photos show the clips and where they fit. Peter

So successful that the VED revenue dropped so much (as manufacturers found ways to get meaningless in the real world low CO2 test results and purchasers followed) they had to reverse it!

Well enough was enough, my local dealer is great but my 3yr old Octavia was becoming a permanent resident in their workshop due to that notorious infotainment system and its hard/soft ware issues - I would also say it is a dangerous design, fine if youve a passenger to use it but not for the driver...so what next, well happy with dealer (question on how good skoda uk is) but I stayed and now have a Karoq, I can now use the infotainment system , I was tempted by another Octavia as they might have sorted it but didn't want the risk, all cars have issues but my last Octavia oh my gord no (shame as it was my 4th Ocy)

Slave cylinder on clutch - mine went and started leaking brake fluid through bottom of bell housing. Check your brake fluid reservoir - it is shared with the clutch. First sign was the clutch pedal stuck down. If air in cable it will feel spongy, hard to change gear, change in biting point. They are fairly delicate. Have a read about bleeding clutch cable and installation. Easy to damage a new slave cylinder. It is almost as much work to access slave cylinder as fit new clutch, flywheel, so I got a new clutch, dual mass flywheel.

I’ll wait for @ApertureS to give his insight into this….

Understood. Ta. It spends most of its resting periods in the garage - but, yes, I'll continue to look after it. And, yes, the other, little used, car in the household which IS left mainly on the driveway did develop cracks in the Goodyear Vectors after about 5 years. And, I'm sure you're right that low mileage might not ultimately benefit cars but they're inanimate objects to be utilized for our use and gets as much or as little use as is required. 👍

Wetkipper and I both have 2019 cars so 4 years old.

All received, ta. I've thought a bit more and almost decided to keep the alloys (and their respective OEM Dunlops) and wait until the winter tyres on the steelies have worn down a bit more then get All Seasons of one sort or another. Camskill sell Nexen All Seasons for about £77 which is half the cost of Goodyears or Michelins. I'm not entirely sure they're twice as good and as my mileage is so low the Nexens will probably see me out 🤔 But I'm thinking I'll delay the matter for a while. I've fitted new plastic wheel trims, secured them with cable ties and cleaned the steel wheels. That'll do for now .

No point in changing coils before they fail, but may be wise to acquire a spare to keep in the glove box.

How many miles on the car? Seems highly unlikely they're original unless the mileage is super-low. If they are, they may be a bit 'sticky-inny' so go gently when trying to undo.

It's not really very important since 50,000 volts has no problems jumping through fresh air, a few bits of dirt aren't going to affect it either. Just blow the holes out if you're worried about it.

The Manoeuvre braking currently unavailable, Exit warning system is currently unavailable are software faults and should be resolved with a simple software update, unless there's a sensor fault, but more often that it's software. Pillar trims are nothing to do with the above faults and may just be they're not seated correctly or have something pinched inside.

8755 firmware: https://uploadnow.io/f/3J8v0Br

Maybe my post do not complies with forum rules and I am so sorry if I'm doing something wrong, but this situation is really serious and against the warranty law: Skoda refuses to fix it, asks for money, with truly incoherent and embarrassing excuses although there is a solution! So I decided to do an upload of the 8755 software file in hopes of doing some good. I'll post the link in the next message so that at least these words can remain. The absurd thing is that many Skoda assistance centers throughout Europe are unaware of the existence of this firmware and they don't even know why. An assistance center, who learned of its existence through me, told me that in official documents 8755 results as compatible only with 695 hardware, but it is not true, as seems that some of you can confirm. The further absurdity? Swing Plus produced since mid-2020 already have the 8755 installed. You can find it by searching, in Google images, "8755 MIB2" or "8755 696", "8755 695" and so on: you will find external labels of the hardware showing the software number. Why are Skoda and VW doing all this to us? We should file a class action and seek compensation, also to avoid other similar problems in the future, but evidently it's one of those situations where solving it ourselves it's more realistic.. and costless. After having struggled for a long time in vain, after being blamed and being told that - the phone is bad or too new (later discovering that it is expressly declared compatible by Skoda) - our cable is faulty, buy another one - to buy the Volkswagen cable which costs a lot and is much worse etc. etc. , all without any written trace, other than threatening them. What a shame.

Thank you for your reply. I will definitely try lubricating before possibly removing door card. Cheers 👍

As promised, an update on the front brake upgrade. The front pads were up for replacement, and the discs were coming soon so I decided to sell this opportunity to the misses to also upgrade the pads and discs. And while we're at it, why not also brake lines and oil, right? After quite a bit of a search for parts, and dealing with some availability (not wanting to pay outrageous import and handling fees if I were to buy parts from the UK, and get them in NL), I landed on a nice combination of brands: - Tarox Strada Pads - Zimmerman Z-sport discs (could barely contain myself, but decided with all the holidays coming up not to splurge and go for the 2-part discs) - Goodridge braided lines - Goodridge Performance Brake Fluid All in all, I think money very much well spent! The brake pedal feel stiffer, the bite of the brakes is much firmer and more direct and overall feel of the brakes has just improved. Haven't had it in real extreme circumstances (repetitive hard braking) yet, but so far the brakes just give more confidence than OEM that they are going to stop and stop every time. Very happy with this upgrade! I also like the looks of these drilled discs, makes them look more purposeful and another hint of the performance potential of the car. I am doubting if I should paint the callipers, to make the whole set-up look a bit more sporty. But I do like the understated sleeper look of the car, and with a new set of aftermarket wheels going on in the spring, painted brake callipers might be a bit much... Now first get the winter tires sorted, and then a winter browsing for the summer wheel upgrade! (Any ideas? Preferably would go lighter than the OEM 19x8 Vegas I'm currently running, nearly 14kgs each...) And as they say, a picture speaks a thousand words, so hereby: Old vs. New Before bedding in: After bedding in:

? Maybe @lol-lolwill be able to tell us how many Death Trap Renault Zoe there are in this world now. Or in the UK. All this fire and explosion stuff is a real horror show. Not. What is is the Park and Ride rapid chargers at Edinburgh Airport still being out of service. Thank goodness I am in a diesel. Not seen any cars on fire or exploding for ages now. Other than on vids on here.

Mines the double wall one jr ,sounds like yours is too as i cant really see the bag ,ive often wondered if these ones need changing tho as whats the point in the double wall that the bag sits inbetween ?

Ok so just for the o/s people that are not from Australia. Here down under we measure fuel consumption based on how many L which is a volume of fuel is used per every 100km which is the amount driven. So the lower the volume measured in L (litres) of amount of fuel used per the distance travelled in km the more economical the vehicle is. I hope that helps a little.

Ignore what Marcii is saying, I'm not sure why they are quoting my post from another forum regarding enabling cornering fogs but it certainly won't have any relevance to your issue, That being said, the behaviour you've described does sound a little odd. - Is this a new issue? - Have you had any coding performed? - Any errors on the dash/infotainment? - Do you have access to VCDS or similar to perform an autoscan to check for any fault codes etc?

It's not a hard job to swap them over. 10 minutes tops

Some coolant reservoirs are double walled and the silica bag can’t be accessed so need to be replaced

I'm sorry if I annoyed you... yes, you're right, what I changed above has no relevance to my problem 🫣🫣

Endtanks recived diffusors same as HP Performance does, to avoid heat soak in upper part of FMIC. Core is Garrett 450x307x76mm, inlets are 63mm (2.5”), welded professionally by #veskoracevar and preparing for installation, overboost pipe over driver side, return Lines to TB over passenger side. DV rerouted already because of it. Than we Will measured IATs and post them Here.

... but you knew those changes were irrelevant because the fault existed before them - something you didn't mention until a later post I'm out.

Many years back the repairs shops here promoted the Valvoline for Skoda. Later some of them start ''pushing'' Aral for engine oils-coolant ''because it's from Germany" (trying to tie VW Germany,Skoda-German product). I have tested 2 Motul and Amsoil Synthetic oils. Unfortunately no Morris Multivis in Greek e-stores. Skoda / VW Group Engine Oils

Yes, changing the relay cured the problem, the car is running and starting as it should. I now carry a spare just in case.

If its working fine leave it alone. Time enough worrying about it if the problem returns. As it's just a car for local shopping runs a breakdown wouldn't be a disaster, as it may be on a car that you'd take on a continental holiday for example.

OBD11

It is a 2009 fabia mk 3

Same wheels and spec on mine. I do like them but getting itchy feet and fancy a change!

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/517146-what-is-this-oil-leak The fix has not worked. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/518213-my-dsg-gearbox-seems-playing-up

I have a 1.6tdi in a polo. It's alright, but you need to accept that sooner or later you're going to be replacing injectors. Wouldn't be my first choice of engine, but if it's what's available in budget, there's far worse stuff out there.

Servicing every year makes no difference to your DQ200 because it does not get touched. It might have had since 2014 the service campaign 35F7 and the oil changed from Synthetic to mineral and a software update. For DQ200 2009-2012. Best you visit an automatic specialist that works on DSG,s.

The wiring in the rubber boot between the door and the body is damaged, you must repair it.

Modifications time with@ApertureSwhen fitment off the facelift taillights happened Que loads of photos taken by Elliott received_6843981992383132.mp4 20231118_193020.mp4

That is the noise of the stealers rubbing their hands together! 🤣 Clockspring and/or wheel rubbing against shroud(s). Cost to repair zero Or €3600 😒 Nice work if you can get it!

I think a double press of the fob deactivates the interior sensors and theres a button on the bottom of the door pillar that deactivates them ,just incase thats what causing the issues ,worth a try .

Is there any part of your car you haven't pulled apart JR?

Any fault codes stored in parking or rear sensors (even if related to a flat battery) and if they haven’t been cleared will cause the rear cross traffic to disable itself. clear the codes and try again, if it proceeds there will be a fault code now to show what is faulting and causing it.

Photos? Spec? Detailed service history? location? You can’t expect someone to hand over £20,000 based on a 1 sentence description!

Lucky you. They aren't honest imo. If you are in eu sure it's fine. They don't reply to emails. there's hundreds of negative reviews on various sites. Happy you haven't been ripped