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Easy!!

This battery degradation thing is well known, Used Car Traders of EV,s are checking, well good ones. Cars like the Leaf that we know about and why some were more affected than others is there for people to learn about, how cooling when charging was an issue. People wanting a town car / commuter and a used car might well do their due diligence before buying a used EV. Others will maybe trust sales people and get screwed. There are so many Polestars about Scotland it is quite surprising. I have yet to hear a driver with one complain about them. I really hope at 3 or 4 years old to 10 years old they are going to be good used buys and very cheap. There will be loads of them kicking about. The Dundee Taxi firm that had a pretty large fleet of Leaf got on pretty well with how the performed with Rapid charging and doing high annual miles. Town / City miles though, just like many people just need a inexpensive used car for.

Harry's latest video is interesting. He mentions that the dealers don't want second-hand EVs as they interfere with them shifting and hitting their targets of selling new EVs. It's a video explaining why he has gone back to diesel, but it isn't a slagging off of EVs as a car (he embraces tech), but more the complications and issues of the whole EV scene. It's a little bit of an eye-opener.

@HappySam Yes stop overthinking it. I have had a mapped 300 bhp Octavia and a GTI 245 PP. Both would be easily beaten from the lights by my 272 4x4 Superb L&K. The 2WD cars just can't put the traction down effectively. However once rolling the Octavia had awesome torque and could possibly catch the Superb. MPG in summer keeping up with most traffic will be 32-35 MPG on short A road trips and up to 40-ish on longer trips. It will feel a bit 'boaty' after the VRS, so on the test drive try out it the DCC Sport mode if it has DCC and you'll realise how you can really push it along twisting roads despite its size. The equipment and comfort was fantastic and overall it's the best car I have had, particularly since it only cost me £26K at 6 months old with 2500 miles on the clock and £155 road tax. You get one life so if you can afford it, spend the money and enjoy.

You are not seeing steam. You are seeing water vapour - mostly because the atmosphere is already at 100% humidity. I guarantee your bonnet is not super hot - just warm enough to persuade some of the water on it to vapourise. Try a remote temperature sensor to see how warm it is.

nothing wrong with a bit of chrome u can fix the wheel arch gaps by fitting some lowering springs. L&K r nicely specc'ed. Sportline not as good, but have other nicer looking trim options that u don't get on the L&K model. mine is non-Sportline MY17 - no regrets.

I've seen the odd mention of Ad-Blue heaters and level control not registering when topping up but that's about it. The latter is usually when it's absolutely empty with only a few miles left. Having owned both starting at a similar milage (90k) the 150 is a much nicer car.

Just to give @fabdavrav some feedback on his experiment, I fitted the harmonic damper to the rear subframe of my Octavia and instantly noticed a quieter vehicle on my usual commute. It certainly reduces rattling from the rear suspension and reduces other noise transmitted through that into the cabin. A definite improvement IMO. I can't say that I've noticed the drumming/logs tumbling sound that others have heard but that might be drowned out in my car by the sawblade worn tyres causing a worn wheel bearing type drone in mine?? Next for me will be wheel alignment and some new tyres when they wear out.

It will be partly down to being a Tesla, and then comparing with a Jaguar. It is not to be dismissed, it is real, and different EV,s are affected differently. It matters if travelling the distance of the capacity of your battery and then that is lower by 1/4 or 1/3 rd. not just some 20% the car magazines go on about when not really out and about in that cold UK weather. Getting the car heated and then going non stop might be very different from a Rep / Commercial Traveller / Worker that has several stops a day to do and the battery getting cold every time and the interior cold. Or an actual family going places, needing the car heated and ventilated. Like real world, not a Journalist or 2 checking range until the car runs out of energy.

1. That's easy. Just enter the registration in the DVLA MOT checker website, enter the reg and that'll tell you the date on which the car was 1st registered. Std warranty will expire 3yr from that date. In theory you could of course simply use the MySkoda app, but that's sh1te. 2: The VIN number has been entered wrong - hey ho, **** happens. But aren't they progressing this to Skoda UK for correction? In anycase, who needs a VIN number, the Skoda website gives the information under service and maintenance. Assuming your car is set to fixed intervals ( also known as time and distance or annual servicing ) The first year service is nothing other than a basic oil and filter change service is called an 'oil and inspection service' The second year service ( and every 2nd year from now on ) is called an 'oil and inspection service with pollen filter' The third year service ( and every 2nd year from now on ) is called an 'oil and inspection service with extended scope' The name of the 2nd year service kinda gives the game away as to what extras are required. As for brake fluid change 🤪 It's listed on the Skoda website under maintenance - 1st recommended change is year3 and every 2 years thereafter. Any main dealer I've dealt with has always been on the ball with this. Which dealer is saying they think brake fluid is due in year two ?

Andymann i have sent you pp. On the other hand if this problem is not a problem but only question of drivers comfort what would be the cause of it and jerky start sometimes: - big turbo on small engine that doesnt work until 2.000 rpms and than acts to strong giving sense that you cannot figure out if you have given too much or too litle throtle - 3 cylinders that make vibration without antivibration avtion - rev hang when changing gears caused by heavy DMF

I think main dealers not wanting used EV is mainly down to the 22% mandate that new car dealers must hit in order for the manufacturer not get hit by penalty. As mentioned around 9:20 video. I do see what Harry is saying about manufacturers not telling about battery degradation, at around 13:15 of video. Nissan, for example, their service contains a battery report that doesn't tell you anything what so ever. One has to buy Leafspy or other OBD tools to find out. It's one of the reason I decided to buy new (my only brand new car) for the long range car I want to keep for long term. Through TeslaMate logging, I know the whole history of its battery down to every detail. You can see I try to keep it between 30%-75%, right around 50% mark. I don't agree regarding cold weather performance though. In situation where range is actually needed: during long distance driving, heat scavenging from the battery after rapid charging solves the problem pretty well. Day to day, using a bit more energy to warm up the car is non-issue. The 3 points conclusion is pretty spot on: 1. Target on efficiency. "Efficiency should be name of the game" 2. Battery health openly available for second hand vehicle 3. BEV isn't going to solve climate change, "even if charged on green electricity" For last point, I think he's forgetting or not aware of V2G or V2H that allows the battery to be an asset. The reality is that we are waaaaaay short on battery production and adoption to allow 100% renewable powered. EV's are battery on wheels, we should start use them when parked. No single thing is going to solve climate change, but batteries are an important part of the renewable energy solution, and BEV happen to contain the biggest one most people will ever own.

Same for Golf Mk8: https://www.golfmk8.com/forums/index.php?threads/infotainment-hardware-and-software-updates.391952/page-96#post-8034579

Would assume new software is on the way as SEAT have had it for a few months: https://www.vagupdate.com/blog/general-news-and-informations-about-vag-cars/seat-has-just-released-new-software-version-1969-for-leon-and-formentor

Yet another post from me to say the 280 (now 320 or there abouts) is the best car I’ve owned or driven as a company car and that includes vehicles like Escort and Sierra Cosworth 2 and 4x4, Scorpio Cosworth, Fiat Turbo Coupe, Nissan 200SX. Oh, and a few Ford Luton’s and Transits! So, I won’t be selling it. Next big job with be getting it rustproofed in the Summer so I need to investigate and select the best products and supplier.

Long story short is that for anyone wanting to buy a pretty young used EV there should be plenty to chose from at maybe 'Much Cheapness' as they have to get flogged by Lease companies, Motability etc. So as long as the prices are really dropping away and main dealers do not want them as part of their sales stock they should be getting into the hands of traders / brokers and then to new owners.

Had a full software update and this has solved my SatNav and loading user profile issues. Thanks for everyone’s help and interest. Still though unable to update maps.

The KYB 3358015 front shock absorbers and KYB 3448024 rear shock absorbers are listed as aftermarket replacements for lowered ride height shock absorbers, standard ride height shock absorbers, and increased ride height shock absorbers, ie. it's a one size fits all approach from KYB so might not be a close match to the specification of the original shock absorbers. It's a similar story with most of the other aftermarket shock absorbers. However, these KYB shock absorbers should be long enough for the increased ride height car otherwise KYB shouldn't be listing them for it. KYB 3358015 front shock absorbers are sold to replace the following OEM part numbers OE 3Q0413031BN — VW OE 5Q0413031CJ — VW OE 3Q0413031BM — VW OE 3Q0413031BR — VW OE 3Q0413031AL — VW OE 5Q0413031EC — VW OE 5Q0413031CF — VW OE 3Q0413031AR — VW OE 5QA413031AA — VW OE 3Q0413031AQ — VW OE 3Q0413031AM — VW OE 5QA413031AB — VW OE 5Q0413031CG — VW OE 5Q0413031CH — VW OE 5Q0413031HR — VW OE 5Q0413031GG — VW OE 3Q0413031CB — VW OE 3Q0413031AP — VW OE 5Q0413031CM — VW OE 3Q0413031BA — VW OE 5Q0413031HS — VW OE 3Q0413031CC — VW OE 5Q0413031CL — VW OE 5Q0413031GJ — VW OE 3Q0413031BQ — VW OE 3Q0413031BS — VW OE 3Q0413031AN — VW OE 3Q0413031AS — VW OE 3Q0413031AT — VW OE 3Q0413031CE — VW OE 3Q0413031CF — VW OE 3Q0413031CG — VW OE 3Q0413031CK — VW OE 3Q0413031CL — VW OE 3Q0413031CM — VW OE 5Q0413031CK — VW OE 5Q0413031FT — VW OE 5Q0413031GL — VW OE 5Q0413031HP — VW OE 5Q0413031HT — VW OE 5Q0413031JK — VW OE 5Q0413031JL — VW OE 5Q0413031JM — VW OE 5R3413031H — VW OE 5R3413031J — VW OE 5WA413031AT — VW OE 5WA413031BA — VW OE 5WA413031BJ — VW OE 5Q0413031FN — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0413031FP — SKODA OE 3Q0413031BG — SKODA OE 5Q0413031ER — SKODA OE 5Q0413031EP — SKODA OE 3Q0413031BF — SKODA OE 5Q0413031FS — SKODA OE 3Q0413031BH — SKODA OE 5Q0413031EQ — SKODA OE 3Q0413031BJ — SKODA OE 3Q0413031CQ — SKODA OE 3Q0413031CR — SKODA OE 3Q0413031CS — SKODA OE 3Q0413031CT — SKODA OE 5Q0413031JC — SKODA OE 5Q0413031JD — SKODA OE 5Q0413031JF — SKODA OE 5Q0413031JG — SKODA OE 5WA413031AF — SKODA OE 5WA413031AG — SKODA OE 5WA413031AH — SKODA OE 5WA413031AJ — SKODA OE 5WA413031AK — SKODA OE 5WA413031AL — SKODA OE 5WA413031AP — SKODA OE 5WA413031S — SKODA OE 5WA413031T — SKODA OE 5Q0413031ET — AUDI OE 5Q0413031ES — AUDI OE 5Q0413031DF — AUDI OE 5Q0413031EL — AUDI OE 5Q0413031FE — AUDI OE 5Q0413031HJ — AUDI OE 5Q0413031GE — AUDI OE 5Q0413031EG — AUDI OE 5Q0413031EF — AUDI OE 5Q0413031GD — AUDI OE 5Q0413031GT — AUDI OE 5Q0413031GN — AUDI OE 5Q0413031GS — AUDI OE 5Q0413031GQ — AUDI OE 5Q0413031FF — AUDI OE 8V0413031G — AUDI OE 5WA413031 — AUDI OE 5WA413031A — AUDI OE 5WA413031E — AUDI OE 5WA413031F — AUDI OE 8V0413031AB — AUDI OE 8V0413031AC — AUDI OE 8V0413031C — AUDI OE 8V0413031F — AUDI OE 8V0413031H — AUDI OE 8V0413031J — AUDI OE 5Q0413031FH — SEAT OE 5Q0413031FJ — SEAT OE 5WA413031AA — SEAT OE 5WA413031AB — SEAT OE 5WA413031AC — SEAT OE 5WA413031AD — SEAT OE 5WA413031AQ — SEAT OE 3Q0413031BP — VW / SKODA OE 5WA413031AN — VW / AUDI KYB 3448024 rear shock absorbers are sold to replace the following huge list of OEM part numbers OE 5Q0513029DQ — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0513029DP — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0513029GL — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0513029EQ — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0513029EN — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0513029EM — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0513029EP — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0513029FE — VW / SEAT OE 5QN513049AT — VW / SEAT OE 5QN513049BA — VW / SEAT OE 5QN513049BB — VW / SEAT OE 5QN513049BC — VW / SEAT OE 5QN513049BH — VW / SEAT OE 5QN513049BJ — VW / SEAT OE 3Q0513049GF — VW OE 3Q0513049GE — VW OE 3Q0513049GG — VW OE 5Q0513029EH — VW OE 5Q0513029BQ — VW OE 3Q0513049FA — VW OE 5Q0513029LL — VW OE 5Q0513029EG — VW OE 3Q0513049ER — VW OE 5Q0513029LM — VW OE 5QA513029AH — VW OE 3Q0513049GL — VW OE 5Q0513029FM — VW OE 5Q0513029FT — VW OE 5Q0513029DB — VW OE 5Q0513029JK — VW OE 3Q0513049EQ — VW OE 5Q0513029DA — VW OE 5Q0513029HC — VW OE 5Q0513029LK — VW OE 5QN513049AN — VW OE 5Q0513029HB — VW OE 5Q0513029FS — VW OE 5Q0513029JR — VW OE 3Q0513049FB — VW OE 3Q0513049GR — VW OE 5Q0513029NH — VW OE 3Q0513049FG — VW OE 5Q0513029AR — VW OE 5Q0513029JJ — VW OE 5QN513049AM — VW OE 3Q0513049FC — VW OE 3Q0513049GK — VW OE 5Q0513029AP — VW OE 5Q0513029HA — VW OE 5Q0513029JP — VW OE 5QF513049AP — VW OE 5QF513049T — VW OE 3Q0513049HB — VW OE 5QF513049BN — VW OE 5Q0513029JH — VW OE 3Q0513049GQ — VW OE 5Q0513029HJ — VW OE 5QF513049BP — VW OE 3Q0513049ES — VW OE 3Q0513049HE — VW OE 3Q0513049JL — VW OE 5Q0513029GP — VW OE 5Q0513029NG — VW OE 5QA513029AG — VW OE 5Q0513029HP — VW OE 5QF513049AL — VW OE 3Q0513049EC — VW OE 3Q0513049ED — VW OE 3Q0513049EE — VW OE 3Q0513049EF — VW OE 3Q0513049EG — VW OE 3Q0513049EH — VW OE 3Q0513049EJ — VW OE 3Q0513049EK — VW OE 3Q0513049ET — VW OE 3Q0513049FD — VW OE 3Q0513049FE — VW OE 3Q0513049FF — VW OE 3Q0513049FH — VW OE 3Q0513049FJ — VW OE 3Q0513049FK — VW OE 3Q0513049FL — VW OE 3Q0513049FM — VW OE 3Q0513049GH — VW OE 3Q0513049GJ — VW OE 3Q0513049GS — VW OE 3Q0513049GT — VW OE 3Q0513049HA — VW OE 3Q0513049HC — VW OE 3Q0513049HD — VW OE 3Q0513049HP — VW OE 3Q0513049HQ — VW OE 3Q0513049HR — VW OE 3Q0513049JC — VW OE 3Q0513049JK — VW OE 5Q0513029AQ — VW OE 5Q0513029DG — VW OE 5Q0513029DH — VW OE 5Q0513029DR — VW OE 5Q0513029DS — VW OE 5Q0513029GA — VW OE 5Q0513029GB — VW OE 5Q0513029GG — VW OE 5Q0513029GH — VW OE 5Q0513029GJ — VW OE 5Q0513029GK — VW OE 5Q0513029GS — VW OE 5Q0513029GT — VW OE 5Q0513029HD — VW OE 5Q0513029HF — VW OE 5Q0513029HG — VW OE 5Q0513029HK — VW OE 5Q0513029HL — VW OE 5Q0513029HM — VW OE 5Q0513029HN — VW OE 5Q0513029LN — VW OE 5Q0513029LP — VW OE 5QA413031AC — VW OE 5QA513029AJ — VW OE 5QA513029AK — VW OE 5QA513029AL — VW OE 5QA513029AS — VW OE 5QA513029AT — VW OE 5QA513029BA — VW OE 5QF513049AA — VW OE 5QF513049AB — VW OE 5QF513049AK — VW OE 5QF513049AM — VW OE 5QF513049AN — VW OE 5QF513049AQ — VW OE 5QF513049BR — VW OE 5QF513049BS — VW OE 5QF513049Q — VW OE 5QF513049R — VW OE 5QF513049S — VW OE 5QN513049AP — VW OE 5QN513049AQ — VW OE 5QN513049AR — VW OE 5QN513049AS — VW OE 5QN513049BF — VW OE 5QN513049BG — VW OE 5QN513049BL — VW OE 5WA513029BC — VW OE 5WA513029CE — VW OE 5WA513029CF — VW OE 5WA513029S — VW OE 5WA513029T — VW OE 5Q0513029EC — AUDI OE 5Q0513029EB — AUDI OE 5Q0513029GM — AUDI OE 5Q0513029AS — AUDI OE 5Q0513029EL — AUDI OE 8S0513029 — AUDI OE 5Q0513029BK — AUDI OE 5Q0513029EK — AUDI OE 5Q0513029JE — AUDI OE 5Q0513029CJ — AUDI OE 5Q0513029CK — AUDI OE 5Q0513029ET — AUDI OE 8S0513029A — AUDI OE 8V0513029F — AUDI OE 5Q0513029GN — AUDI OE 8S0513029D — AUDI OE 8V0513029H — AUDI OE 8S0513029B — AUDI OE 5Q0513029CM — AUDI OE 5Q0513029BM — AUDI OE 5Q0513029ER — AUDI OE 8V0513029E — AUDI OE 8S7513029D — AUDI OE 8S7513029G — AUDI OE 5Q0513029HQ — AUDI OE 8S7513029F — AUDI OE 5Q0513029HH — AUDI OE 5Q0513029JF — AUDI OE 5QF513049BL — AUDI OE 5Q0513029EA — AUDI OE 5Q0513029ES — AUDI OE 5Q0513029FA — AUDI OE 5Q0513029HR — AUDI OE 5Q0513029NQ — AUDI OE 5QF513049BM — AUDI OE 5QF513049CD — AUDI OE 5QF513049CE — AUDI OE 5QF513049CM — AUDI OE 83A513049B — AUDI OE 8S7513029E — AUDI OE 8V0513029J — AUDI OE 3Q0513049FN — SKODA OE 5Q0513029GC — SKODA OE 5Q0513029FL — SKODA OE 5Q0513029EF — SKODA OE 3Q0513049FR — SKODA OE 5Q0513029FN — SKODA OE 5Q0513029KF — SKODA OE 5Q0513029FK — SKODA OE 5Q0513029FB — SKODA OE 3Q0513049FT — SKODA OE 5QF513049AS — SKODA OE 5Q0513029DF — SKODA OE 5Q0513029KB — SKODA OE 3Q0513049FQ — SKODA OE 5Q0513029FQ — SKODA OE 5Q0513029ED — SKODA OE 5Q0513029FD — SKODA OE 5Q0513029GD — SKODA OE 5Q0513029EE — SKODA OE 5Q0513029FC — SKODA OE 5QF513049AT — SKODA OE 3Q0513049GA — SKODA OE 5Q0513029KC — SKODA OE 5Q0513029KK — SKODA OE 3Q0513049FP — SKODA OE 3Q0513049FS — SKODA OE 3Q0513049GB — SKODA OE 5Q0513029DD — SKODA OE 5Q0513029DE — SKODA OE 5Q0513029DL — SKODA OE 5Q0513029DN — SKODA OE 5Q0513029DT — SKODA OE 5Q0513029FP — SKODA OE 5Q0513029JM — SKODA OE 5Q0513029JN — SKODA OE 5Q0513029JT — SKODA OE 5Q0513029KA — SKODA OE 5Q0513029KD — SKODA OE 5Q0513029KE — SKODA OE 5Q0513029KH — SKODA OE 5Q0513029KL — SKODA OE 5Q0513029KT — SKODA OE 5Q0513029MH — SKODA OE 5Q0513029MJ — SKODA OE 5Q0513029MK — SKODA OE 5Q0513029MM — SKODA OE 5Q0513029MN — SKODA OE 5QF513049AH — SKODA OE 5QF513049AJ — SKODA OE 5QF513049BG — SKODA OE 5QF513049BH — SKODA OE 5QF513049CB — SKODA OE 5QF513049CC — SKODA OE 5WA513029AR — SKODA OE 5WA513029AS — SKODA OE 5WA513029AT — SKODA OE 5WA513029BA — SKODA OE 5WA513029BF — SKODA OE 5WA513029BG — SKODA OE 5WA513029BH — SKODA OE 5WA513029BJ — SKODA OE 5WA513029BK — SKODA OE 5WA513029BL — SKODA OE 5WA513029BM — SKODA OE 5WA513029BN — SKODA OE 5WA513029BP — SKODA OE 5WA513029BQ — SKODA OE 5Q0513029FF — SEAT OE 5Q0513029FG — SEAT OE 5Q0513029CT — SEAT OE 5Q0513029HT — SKODA / SEAT OE 5WA513029AD — SEAT / CUPRA OE 5WA513029AE — SEAT / CUPRA OE 5WA513029AH — SEAT / CUPRA OE 5WA513029AJ — SEAT / CUPRA OE L5QD513029G — VW (FAW)

Thanks any way

TfL said it was "disappointed" with the ASA's ruling, adding how scientific analysis based on modelled scenarios and estimates was "standard practice" in the scientific community and central government. Translated means, if that is true then any claims made by the Government in support of its radical policies, really cannot be trusted to be anywhere near factual. Figures it seems can be plugged out of thin air, and we are supposed to swallow them hook line and sinker and not to challenge them. Now I wonder why after 14 years of austerity, designed to put the country back on its feet again after the famous note left by the outgoing Government saying "There is no money" and yet there is still no money and the country is in a even worse state than it was 14 years ago.😒

The truth is out there, it is just hiding, well hidden... The truth does not fit the agenda. It is like the BBC's temperature figures, they are at ground level not as they used to be because ground level figures are higher and fit the agenda.

For very dirty stuff, I've used Built Hamber Surfix diluted down to about 1:50. I've used CarPro Inside also on mild jobs. Both just clean and don't really leave a finish. To finish, CarPro PERL diluted to 1:10. Buff or don't buff then to leave a matt or shiny finish as preference.

Ya I've seen that before and seen it on other cars I had in the past. It was nothing to worry about as long as the coolant temperature is reading normal

That bubbling is definitely not normal. There should be a trickle of liquid coolant, which speeds up when revved. That was when engine was a operating temperature, was it? I wonder if the water pump might have lost most of its talent for pumping somehow? Any chance the coolant mixture has become too weak through topping up with just water, and you've had some ice form in the system recently, that has then damaged impeller blades of the pump?

Just as a follow up - pump replaced by the local indi VAG garage so fingers crossed tis all good. The old one looks pretty hideous - car has 35k on it and it looks like its been leaking for a while! Classic was correct, leaking from the impeller seal.

Mine is 5 years old now and a little different to a 2023 model, but not much. Best car I have ever owned and I plan to keep it for a while yet. Test drive it in the wet, the grip will surprise you.

The 235 45 18 Goodyear 4season Gen 3 just fitted I've measured at 8mm near the centre of the tread. IIRC Michelin answered my query on tread depths a few years ago and said new crossclimates (the original one) could be as little as 6.9 mm in the centre and less toward the edge, depending on size of tyre.

As @Warrior193 suggested, I would have gone with wheel balance at the mention of it vibrating at a certain speed. However as you suggested that it went away when off throttle, I think I would be looking at a C.V. joint being worn and throwing a drive shaft out of kilter as well. One check you could do yourself though would be check your wheel nuts are tight. You just never know...

I changed the plugs on Sunday. It's made no difference to the idle. The car drives smoothly enough it's just noisy and a wee bit lumpy at idle. Might try a coil pack next.

Just like the rest of the infotainment system which has periods of tyre pressure warnings / last fuel consumption / welcome messages being displayed on start up, most of the time the USB drive I have connected into the USB-C by the gear lever will arbitrarily decide where it'll play the tracks from. Yesterday it even started where I'd last listened to something!

Latest update on all owners manuals, past and present models. https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

@PetrolDave or @ApertureS can you give a full list of the features that use data from the A5 camera - and (depending on options) how many different windscreen-mounted cameras were used on MY16 vehicles?

I don't recall where I suggested to get a replacement but eBay would be my first place to check or if your OK with a soldering iron you might be able to replace the surface mounted LED's again source them from eBay

Mine was about 3 months old when I got it (a 4x4 TDI) - price had dropped at least £1,800 from when it was first advertised (it was a pre-reg) and that was a bit below list price already (around £3k I think). It's certainly been no trouble and I'm very happy with it. Perhaps the 4x4 versions aren't so popular and don't shift so fast.

Front bulkhead, pedal box. Basically I think you need an RHD shell, steering rack and fascia, plus, based on knowing a garage that has rebuilt a few economic write-offs, about 100 hours labour to transfer the engine, interior, doors and glazing. At this point, you basically have a new shell with an old interior and mechanicals.

Minus 7 degrees start. Pre heat for 5 mins plugged in. 100% show 104 miles. Then I noticed that Power available is limited to 75%. I was in sport and behind vans and lorries so was getting 3 8 miles a kWh and it was minus 6. Heating at 19 degrees. Exactly after 20 miles power available went to 90% and at 25 miles to 100% . After 40 miles I had 70 mile range and then on Motorway it was 3.3 miles a kWh. Arrived at MFG charger after 80 miles with 30% battery and 30 miles range. Charger started dead easy. Plug in tap card. 79 pence a kWh, next charge will be at a Tesla charger the after that no plan yet for 90 miles or so later. See where I am then. New tyres a success as far as efficiency . Comfort great and silent .

I wouldn’t worry about them being for sale for that length of time. They are expensive cars to start with, (don’t forget the increased VED for the first few years), there is new model coming out in the UK autumn of this year and people have other concerns with the cost of living, so i think there are fewer people with that kind of disposable income. You are purchasing from a dealer, with a warranty so I wouldn’t be too concerned. I bought mine, sight unseen in lockdown from a dealer and had no issues. They are great cars and mine is a keeper, until i can get a Mk4 at a decent price.

@Bobov I've been doing some experiments at the end of my journeys this week. I've never had the handbrake automatically engage when turning off ignition but then I've never had the auto hold turned on. I turned the auto hold on and noticed the following:- 1 The green (P) appears in the instrument binnacle once at standstill to show that the auto hold has been triggered 2 The green (P) changes to a red (P) when the ignition is turned off to show that the auto hold has been promoted to full handbrake and the light on the handbrake switch illuminates Once the auto hold is turned off there are no longer any (P) symbols displayed and no handbrake auto activation. I would imagine that somehow the auto hold button has been pressed (it only illuminates (orange) with the engine started). Do some experiments yourself by starting and shutting off the engine with and without the auto hold activated and see what suits you best. Neil.

Funny you should mention tread depth - Crossclimate I measured my last Crossclimate 2's when I bought them for my Superb mkII @7mm. I've always been a fan of the Crossclimate and have had a couple of sets - I usually get about 35k miles out of them. They are quiet but I'd say when they are getting towards the end of life at certain slow speeds in hot weather they have a slight "hum". However the road noise levels were transformed compared to the previous Continental (& original) summer tyres and the Crossclimates are astounding in really really wet weather. In the recent wintry stuff they were pretty good, and I've occasionally driven in very hot weather on lengthy summer European trips (well not during Covid!!) and performance was good. Goodyear Vector I also measured some Goodyear Vector 2's that I had fitted to Mrs BJ's Panda last year @a smidge under 9mm. Thus far I can't comment re longevity of these as the Panda only does low mileage but driving wise they seem good. Pretty quiet and it sticks to roundabouts like a limpet. In the recent wintery weather you kind of didn't notice - which is a good thing!

The VAG tsi seems to be plug sensitive. On my 1.4tsi Superb the plugs were replaced during my last 120k miles service, I didn't think there was an issue before the service but it really improved the performance and smoothness.

Just use an interior wipe or a kitchen cloth with some white vinegar, use some cotton buds or cotton wool to get down the sides of the switches.

I had two updates no ides whatsoever about what they did or are for, although one did mention Manual and other error fixes! I wonder what it's broken, rather than fixed.

Unbelievable, here's the email I received today. I think it would be an understatement to say that ML Performance are unreliable, can't be trusted, and are not to be used.

Hej All, I have a VW RNS510 sat nav in my Fabia VRS, I know, how rude!!! but it will do, I want to get the Skoda Boot screen back on it, does anyone have a iso or link to one so I can load it back on, are there any nice custom ones out there? Any help would be eternaly appreciated, I don't want to see VW everyday!! Cheers, Steve

Just to clarify, the pedal box is different to a tuning box. It doesn't alter the power at all. @Esseesse200 You probably know this, I am just clarifying for others who read it.

I've got new S24 Ultra for two weeks - no issues with AA at all. Infotainment sftw in my Mk4 is 1941.

So finally have nct now. Needed a new abs pump so was done too. And I got a deal on another radio so tried it out. Not a genuine unit but fairly smart. New in the box, has satnav via a thing stuck to the window, all works. Bluetooth CDs etc. Had an adapter loom with a canbus box so plugged straight in. Has some interesting features including a calculator Conversion calculator, alerts for speed cameras and road changes, has android auto but cant quite figure it out. Lists of speed limits and alcohol limits for every country. And bra sizes. Works well, nice and responsive etc. I'll stick with it as the Amundsen has gone into another car.

Well I've just rung a Skoda main dealer parts department up, they confirmed that the rear m14 headed carrier bracket bolts were reusable, they reasue them. It's the front slide bolts that you could replace at £2.65 plus vat each. Some after market pads come with them, anyway. I've also bought some medium strength locktight, which I'll be using on all the bolts when I start the job. Just bought the pads and discs, too. I'll do them once I have a decent day to do them and I'm off work.

1804 is on the list of supported upgrade paths in the TPI, you should be good. 20-30 users have already updated successfully and haven't heard of any failed installs so far. But as usual, everything you do is on your own risk. I'm sending you a PM with the link.

Got it back this afternoon and what a difference. They used a guy who details cars for a living, looks so shiny all the contamination has gone, all the swirls on the bonnet have gone. Just need to do a water bead test to see how it performs. As an aside they lent me a 1.0 tsi Scala OMG what an underpowered dangerous car. Pulling away just no go at all.