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A much faster.. almost instant.. 1941 is dinosaur regarding speed compare to 1969..

this is all strangely relaxing

Back to being my daily driver now, since the Vectra disgraced itself and left me stranded... yet again. Thin ice, it might see the summer out with me before it goes up for sale. Fabia is on nearly 90,000 miles now, and lapping it up well. Took it (and the mrs) to Stirling last week as well. It's running really smoothly at the moment, not perfect, but it'll get there. I've got a proper THUMP coming from the front driver's side suspension, only if it takes a bump really hard or by surprise, it'll crash over it. No idea what yet, but suspect shock absorber. I've got more I want to do with it, just waiting for better weather and all that.

Update: I've changed engine and DSG thermostats and now coolant temperature quickly reaches 90 degrees and stays there.

I though it was an April Fools. ? What carbon build up? What fuel are you using? You have a 5 year manufacturers warranty in Australia do you not? Best not void it with the 'Professional decarbonising ' the engine.

@LuxoviaRS Probably not. See (1) above. 7_000 (seven thousand) km? That's not even properly run in yet! No idea about job time, or about Strine labour rates. Or indeed which engine you're asking about.

After 3 years of ownership it finally hit me how to hold the false floor in the boot up! The parcel shelf hooks have dual purpose - to latch the parcel shelf to the boot lid and also to hold the false floor. At last, I no longer need to hold it with my head so that my hands are free to pull out things 😅🙈

You need HEX+CAN or the latest HEX-V2 (or HEX-NET) for a MKII Superb.

Hello, welcome to the forum. The 1st image is the torsion beam rear axle fitted to smaller engined vehicles, I believe that the 2nd image is the multi-link, IRS version fitted to the VRS.

I’m curious how Skoda roll out the OTA updates. Obviously they would do it in waves but what criteria do they apply that dictates when a specific car is offered the update? Also, what happens if, at the time, you decline the update - do you go to the back of the queue? Likely no one actually knows the answers to these questions apart from the relevant Skoda team responsible for the roll out.

The bigger the gap, the higher the voltage required to leap it, which in turn would require more energy from coilpack. Makes intuitive sense to me.

The correct plug comes Pre-gapped. & protected by a cardboard or plastic sleeve. Many just then put them in, being sure not to knock them and change the gap. I check each plug with the correct feeler just to see they are Pre-gapped properly. Were not taken out say at a Motor Factors or by a RAC person and knocked. Professionals might say nonsense, we do them everyday and never an issue. Well that is what i was taught when an apprentice not to do. It takes seconds to check and just assuming is for muppets. Except tere were no Muppets when i was an apprentice or pre-set plugs or plugs that need care if re-gapping as much as they are now.

Hello All, After having a discussion regarding LED replacement in the instrument cluster, (search: Rev/Speedo Dial Illumination), I have written up a guide on LED replacement. I hope someone finds it useful. Tomasz Instrument Cluster LED Replacment v1-1.pdf

Announced in Skoda press conference today 15th March 2024 Elroq, an electric suv similar size to Karoq in 2024 Epiq, a baby electric suv, think son of Yeti or Citigo on steroids, in 2025 https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/skoda-annual-press-conference-watch-it-live/ https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/this-will-be-skoda-epiq-find-out-more/

My New car 1.6 SR - 96K Petrol. 2000 V (Plate) After many hours of going through adverts I have found this gem. Went to view this ealier, the car is immaculate. All the switches work, No rusted sills, surface rust as to be expected, but this is deserving of some love and will be waxoiled and preserved. It is a basic spec, however has everything I need such as the remote locking , Aircon (which works) , all the heater settings work! The only issue is a small scuff around the petrol cap. When presented with the FSH the owner still had the original newpaper advert from which he bought the car. Cometically inside it is almost perfect, no wet or damp areas. I am absolutely stunned by the condition of this car. The only things I will to address are: - Fresh cambelt change, (I always do this as there was only one in the paperwork), I will also be doing the clutch as it was very high however it is not groaning or slipping yet. However is probably on the end of its life! and of course I will get this properly undersealed. There was a tiny amount of mayo around the oil cap, however no signs of the engine head gasket issues. No smoke, no oil smell in the coolant. I have however googled this and becuase its been sat doing nothing doing short journeys, I have found out this is no concern, it was litterally a tiny amount I was able to wipe away, apprantly the 1.6 SR design is prone to condensation in that way. It has a fresh MOT , with no structure based warnings in any of its years, If I remember rightly there were brake pad wearing thin, that can easily be addressed.

Good evening. I have the VW RHD accelerator pedal release tool going spare if anybody needs one. Just message and I will post it to you. It works very well and instant, saves using two small screwdrivers. Happy Easter.

Last few things to finish off the weekend. One of my rear buckles has been missing a cover for ages. Got one off the parts car to fix it. And got a hold of some red seats.finally. mostly in good shape but the drivers bottom bolster was wrecked. Got a brand new seat base to do it All in easy as. Had my laptop ready to clear any airbag codes but none came up. So aside from a proper tracking it's basically done. Well, the stuff that requires a lot of downtime anyway. Driven some more and have been VERY impressed so far. The new seat bolster feels fantastic and hold you in well. The suspension is still very confidence inspiring, it holds the road very well. No weird knocks or rattles, suspension related ones anyhow. Forgot to mention I've replaced all but one exhaust mount, and that last one I suspect is causing the exhaust to rattle around too much over bumps. But other than that, great result. Had hoped to polish it and fit some more genuine goodness I've been buying up, but that'll have to wait for a minute.

I haven't tried unplugging the actuator, but I'm pretty sure in my petrol that there's fake sound from the the speakers too. If it was all from the actuator I think it would sound like it was coming just from the back end, and IMHO it doesn't.

Thanks for all the information! Found a reliable MOT tester who knows all the rules and know what to look for. Also didn't take offence when I explain the light situation. Thank you all

I think there are two different issues. The seals are probably compatible with the percentage of Ethanol but "Volkswagen" set the cars up for 95% Ron and in Aus their fuel does not meet that.

Let me try that again: Problem Statement: Fuel containing ethanol can turn corrosive if left in long-term storage, while ethanol's high solvency can affect seals and gaskets used in some fuel systems. Finally, combustion can be affected, with ethanol affecting cold start performance Issue: UK Govt Web site states all Skodas (except specific Felicias) can have Ethanol based fuels used in them New South Wales checkers states that a 2023 Skoda Octavia (along with others) is not compatible with fuel containing ethanol Question(s): What's the difference between the seals & gaskets used in UK Skodas and Aussie Skodas? Do VAG use different seal & gasket materials in different markets for some odd reason?

My personal guess at this point is that the door cable hits the door card. On the door card are some black melting points with sharp edges from putting it together. So the sound could be the foam from the door cable hitting the plastic. I will try and see if putting some foam in this area of the door card will solve it.

Probably the day after you sell it 😁

Can find this product. Behind the main bolt is a plastic cap then a small ring (not visible here) , the windshield wiper and the final bolt comes and presses down all of them. No matter of how tight the big bolt is, for sure due to the 2 rubber washers there would be a tolerance to the whole structure so the move left-right of the mechanism wont transmit the vibrations straight to the metal body of the car.

Mine changed automatically.

Again, you posted as I was typing the first bit of this post (my posts are often (one-finger) typed in stages whilst not multi-tasking) . Prevention, well perhaps partial at least, is better than needing a cure, as I've put above try to have things as (reasonably) clean as possible to help keep things as (reasonably) clean as possible for as long as possible, this will also give you better performance which includes relative good fuel consumption. (after seeing your post now). Not sure why you have a VRS model but that's your business, I was going to put about V8s and fuel consumption but won't now given your concern with the Octavia's consumption. 😆 I'm with you on toll roads though I have used them, and been persuaded (told) to use them by my boss. 😉 Given the low speeds unless you need lugging power wouldn't a smaller more economical engine be better (don't you get the smaller and IMO better Japanese engines and cars there any more (or Chinese for the coal). For the city the stop/start might be useful for fuel consumption and emissions and perhaps autobox and most of the other intrusive driver "aids", get the car's computers programs working for you as they'll have you working for them, particularly if you upset them (by letting the battery get too low, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no warning messages or light yet) the heat much above 20c can be literally draining on the battery. For economy and spirited/"fast" driving, wear and tear on the car's parts, components and systems it's a lot about the driver's driving technique and style (I say this as a not particularly good driver). One of the best tuning aids for the car after or possibly before, full and proper servicing, maintenance and repair of the whole car is driver training and it can be transferred to other cars at no cost or loss. That goes that goes against the macho minds over here too. 😆 I used to see that some in Aus ran their tyres at higher pressures than we do here and what is recommended in the Owner's Manuals, and I've no idea of how they interpreted when the tyres were "cold" but tyres pressures can have an influence on fuel consumption as well of course carrying unnecessary weight, make them walk, 😁 tools, junk, or unnecessary items on the car that increase drag, having lots of electrical items running. Having done a lot of the economical driving and mostly urban city driving you then need to give the car blow-out runs (and a bit more for VRS types), particularly if it's diesel or petrol with GPF negating at least some of the fuel consumption driving. I once done a 200+ mile (320+ km) drive with a 100 m section at 50mpg (5.65 l/100km) when testing engine and carbs set up and another section when my mate joined us at 25mpg (11.3 l/100km), first at well below legal motorway speed limit and second normal motorway speed, you can have it both ways but not at the same time. 🙂

Hey thanks I really appreciate it. No I'm serious I don't understand why I would not be, isn't prevention the best answer. Here in Aus we have 95 and 98 our e10 is not suitable for the vw engine, I was warned against it. I do want to take the car for drives at those speeds but hardly get the time as the car is used extensively in urban city driving in traffic most times for work. The average speed is 26 km. Unfortunately near my home all the highways are 80km and tolled which i refuse to pay. I have to go out of the city in the outer suburbs to get speeds like that. Yes varied driving is the best and exactly the economy suffers already I'm finding the fuel economy isn't the best but I'm hoping it will improve over time. In terms of accelerating and choosing the appropriate gear selection I will try that out.

We are vey well off for chargers in Worcester with around 200 public charge points if one included the 26 at Worcester Parkway railway station and the price is 36p per kWh. Soon-not-to-be PM Sunak was asked directly about making public chargers charge VAT at 5% rather than the current 20% ie in line with those than can home charge. As per usual he did not even answer the question in any way, ignored it. At least he is true to form giving advantages to the well off rather than the less well off again, like the NI ate lowering next weekend. 5p to 10p off most public charger rate would be very nice. One local charger was charging 28p per kWh but it was oft ICE'd, it seemed to be fussy using their charging App too, this was at a community centre and there was only 1 post with two AC outlets. DC outlets are all well over 50p per kWh but 22 kWh AC would suit Zoe owners. Need both Frankley North and Strensham services to get the 24-30 Gridserve and TESLA charger banks and then a price war to start !!

Hi everyone I'm an owner of a 2010 white fabia VRS.. Hope to get lots of advice and help when needed..

That's not going to help with fronts.

Nope not April fools lol 😆. Seriously, I'm referring to carbon build up in intake valves in direct injection engines. Also VAWg engines from what I read in the past somewhere can't recall where are prone to this issue. I'm using the recommended which is 95 and some times I've used 98 RON. Actually I have 7 year warranty to be precise.

I’m not so sure of that - my understanding is that all Mk4 Octavia’s in territories that support OTA updates are capable of receiving them. Mine is a First Edition and regularly gets updates OTA.

Removed

Fix the Breather as it will run like crap without it. As for the Misfires logged, get the plugs out and check all 4 and replace if required, or the one plug that might well be oiled up and black with soot. You have the EPC, the Engine Light and both that can show. The engine can go into 2 cylinder mode or inhibit the turbo. This can happen as well as with one or more bad plugs, or the Super charger Clutch / Water Pump needing replaced. The Spark Plugs used can make quite a difference regardless of the Mechanical Engineers that just say use the right ones, the OEM ones. There were 2 different OEM ones and your 2010 came with ones that were later changed from the factory and the gap was different. The ones i recommend often and am flamed for have a different reach and gap from the OEM ones. But listen to the Professionals not me. After all VW Engineers are dead good and they never ball-ed up did they. PS. 1.4 TSI Twincharger issues, High oil use had VW Group / Skoda doing 2 Changes to the Breathers. Ist one in Europe just the Breather Mod 2009-2012 & a software update. 2nd one tried out in Australia was Breather Mod mk2.

Whatever the explanation, I'm actually happy with the cable I have, as I've previously posted. Even if I had decided to go for one of these, I have no other way of procuring it, so I guess I've saved a few bucks! Happy days.

I have it in stock at Amazon UK. This is the cable I use with a Garmin DC2.

I just set my VPN to Melbourne, and my Amazon location to Australia. The lead is showing as not available. Switched it all back to UK and it's in stock with next day delivery. I think that is your answer I'm afraid.

Your screenshot of the Amazon UK site states 'deliver to Australia'. Pretty sure that's why it's showing not available for you.

Ok. In the very short term I would try and reduce the Bluetooth volume on phone down from 100pc and see if it improves things. as to AA problem, I’m not sure it sounds like it may not be activated. There are two experts I know of on here on things like that, @pab567 and @langers2k. They may see this post now. You should bring up your head unit software / firmware on the infotainment screen and photo and post here…

Its just the climate control working as it should! you set 20c it warms to 20 and maintains it. if you set it to 25 it will get warm again to get the temp to 25 then maintain it. If you get in and the sun has warmed the car and you set the climate to 22, it will cool to 22. might take some getting used to but its working as it should.

The snapped-off hose looks to be the crankcase PCV - wouldn't that affect inlet mixture?

Bought it.. Before install I change Climate to OFF and Auto Start-Stop to OFF.. Then all went smoth.. it takes about 25min.. After update my phone connect and give hotspot to my car and minor updates were automatically found - almost instant.. PS. Infortaiment is compared to 1941 super smooth and fast..

Todays work is underway! Gonna be in pieces for an estimate of 4-5 days with the amount of work going on!

That's OK, then as it proves that the vehicle hasn't been "clocked", so if you have a limited warranty take the car back to be checked for a injector fault or something like that.

Mine seems to react differently in differing temps, like most of us, quicker when warmer.

Do not give it a shot of anything or add additives. ? Which country are you in and how many miles / km has the car done.

You probably won't want to hear this, but single mass flywheel is a really bad idea. These engines were designed specifically around the DMF and the crankshaft is lightened since it doesn't have to withstand high shock and vibration loads. They're not strong enough to last long term with a SMF.

Cup holders can't be expected to hold every size of cups folks might buy. I've never had issues but then I don't buy huge coffee cups

Welcome. The TSI. The TDI & it,s DPF has already done 60,000 miles and you do not know how used up til now. 35 minute commute only and heating up and the TDI doing regens likely will not be that more economic. Be sure the DSG,s have been serviced and the Haldex at 30,000 miles

It was <£700. Main dealers & other primary locals were asking £1k+ & could'nt accomodate me within a reasonable time frame & I need to work or I don't get paid! Everyone has to earn a living I know.