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A few from last week

The buttons on Gandalf's main key fob were getting "lethargic" after almost 7 yrs of service. So I decided to fix it by transplanting the buttons from my unused 3rd key fob. The button presses r much better now. I decided to make a video and share it for anyone that may need to "repair" their key fob. The same process applies to the Kodiaq MK2 and Passat B8 key fobs, with KESSY.

The way i see Audi drivers driving i am not suprised they don't get MPG or m/kwh quoted

I couldn't open the files directly so I've converted the pictures to jpg It is the bumper cover, the part number seems to be PR-8X0,

@Graham Butcher I do wish you would stop repeating guff. If you have a 50 kWh usable battery and not charge above 80% or below 20% you are using 60 % of the battery and getting not very far. I have under 30kWh usable and get 100 miles, it can do the 114 miles EPA figure, *& not have the battery empty.* It could do the 145 mile WLTP i hear some mention & MINI and so others publish that is not the correct figure. That needs hypermiling or perfect circumstances, road and weather. (There is a difference simply from which size wheels tyres so trim level you have, as with almost all models of cars from manufacturers.) No way and would i only charge to 80% or not go below 20% and maybe not even get 60 miles even if i was doing 50 mile of a journey.

I didn't think Waze (or other IOS/Android nav apps) output to the screen shown, was under the impression that was the built in **** nav only

Number one on this diagram. So up and left of the pollen filter housing behind the glovebox (for Climatronic equipped cars)

A few years ago I showed Mrs Crasher some YouTube runaway video’s as we had a car come in that had suffered such an event and the engine quite literally fragged itself. A few weeks later she called and said a neighbour had been driving by in her 3 series when it ran away. She dumped it outside our house and then did one up the road, Mrs Crasher grabbed the cat and hid in the kitchen at the back of the house.

It has been a fair few years since we last owned a Skoda, always Fabia's, usually company cars. We have finally found a primrose yellow Fabia VRS in unmolested condition, not one singe "upgrade", how rare is that.. Having owned a brand new Primrose VRs in 2004 it is really nice to be transported back in time driving a 2004 Fabia VRS, 132K miles, engine good as gold, forgotten just how good that 6 speed gearbox is. After a smooth and fun ride home it will now be a case to go through the service points, change all fluids, cam belt change and have a go at rectifying some corrosion, nothing too dramatic but I might as well get it done right. Since my past membership I have obtained a garage with a 4 post lift and some more knowledge about things mechanical, let the fun begin.. Will

A 4.8W solar charger to charge a plug in hybrid? What?!?

A few from today.................

Look hard enough and people would have achieved the quoted in ideal conditions: https://ev-database.org/car/1619/Tesla-Model-Y-Long-Range-Dual-Motor 169 Wh/km * 1.6 km/mi = 270 Wh/mi. 138 * 1.6 = 221 Wh/Mi (I'm not sure which figure to take, there's 2 figures and 2 different tests) RSEV video shows 237 Wh/mi trip average. Right in the middle of the 2 figures. It includes using energy to pre-condition for supercharging, hence lower "since charge" than trip average. For 80% vs lifetime, it's part of a car that is designed to be used. Given the opportunity it is best practice to charge NCM type to 80% and LFP type to 100%. Only thing that one must avoid is storing the battery at 0% or 100% long term, for example parked up for months. Why does the phone battery in the drawer-of-junk die? It's usually because it has been left unattended at 0% for too long. But if you need 100% just go ahead and charge to 100%. My Nissan Leaf (NCM cells) for example, had periods where I charged to 100% every day for commuting, periods where it only gets charged to 80% every other day, periods where it is charged to 100% every other day. The charge level only gets reduces if it doesn't inconvenient usage.

@Graham Butcher Rapid or Ultra Rapid DC charging all the time might well be an issue for people who BUY a ELECTRIC VEHICLE and will be owning it for many many years. But then if they own it and need to get the miles in between charging they might just do it. Those RENTING a car, Leasing,, driving a company / fleet car might not give a monkeys about the battery in 5 years or 10 years time. Those charging at home or charging with the car parked up will be charging AC and no more than at 22 kW, maybe 11 or 7 kw and might not need to be charging over 80% or even might charge to 90%. The 80% is about not RAPID or Ultra Rapid charging at a slower speed. If you have to charge to 100% then you have to charge to 100%. As to Hypermiling, and driving far with petrols or diesels then i can do that, have done that for decades. We never all got to be where we are being daft. Here it seems to be like people teaching Granny or Grandad to suck eggs (blow eggs.) having only watch videos on how to do it, @Graham Butcher it might be an idea to go drive an EV or 3 before trying to to educate anyone on them.

Some of the basic choices on VW Group cars are made by the UK importers, they probably try to sense what best suits the majority of the individual model and marque potential buyers and stick with that, the options or factory fitted during initial build choices again get restricted by the importers, again in a bid to meet the "wants" of the individual model and marque potential buyers. Some make sense, some less so - then, there is your own personal need/want to retro fit some goodies after you buy the car, if you like or are able to do that.

There's a fault with the car. From the article: By same logic, MPG figure should also be put into a similar class action lawsuit?

Yes, wrong. Charger requires about 1kW available to work at all, so with 5W it won't even start up.

Hi, I think they are the same. But not 100% sure. 🤔 If they are, it's located in the oil pan under the engine. it can be removed easily with only 2 torque screws (if I remember well) once undertray has been removed. BUT, you have to drain the engine oil first, otherwise, you'll be showered with engine oil. I had replaced it on my wife's Audi Q3 TDI150 (due to a misunderstanding of a fault code. the sensor was OK, but the harness had been bitten by a rodent 😬)...

If you want smaller, easy to park etc. How about VW T-cross or Taigo, or Toyota Yaris Cross, or Ford Puma If want it upmarket too, Try a Lexus LBZ or new mini Aceman

Appreciate all the info.its why I joined the Forum to get advice from other people. Thankfully getting plenty of it here. Ian.

How does 13 or 11 divided by 2 equal 10 ? You posted the following image in thread

A daft claim because if there was a closed throttle butterfly the effective compression ratio would be less (induction stoke at less than atmospheric pressure) giving less engine braking. If you want "real" engine braking from a diesel block the exhaust like lorry and coach exhaust brakes do in other continents.

Not to out do your fine work, but I went down the simple route and purchased 3 spare shell's. YIQIXIN Smart Car Key Shell Case 3 Button Fob Simple enough to swap over the electronics and key. Now I have 3 shiny new metal cases keys. Previously it was one metal and 2 plastic. And the metal one was covered in super glue 😂

VW Golf or T-Roc, both smaller inside and out than the Karoq. I suspect with your required options list it would have to be a factory order. Are you bothered by the VED rates that kick in when the list price goes over £40,000. If you were buying a 1.5 DSG SE L Karoq today that list of options would take the list price over the £40K, with VED rates of £1095 first year and £600 per year for years 2 through 6.

Hello again, Thank you very much for the detailed replies. During my trip this weekend I had half a tank of OMV 95 octane petrol left and filled the tank up with OMV 100plus. I chose OMV since the majority of posts from our local community recommended them for quality fuel in Romania. After refueling the engine ran more smoothly on this 50-50% mix and the fuel consumption decreased a little bit. It will take me a few more trips to gradually use up the remaining 95 octane, but I liked the initial results. @Ootohere - thank you for the .pdf printout with the content of the fuels in the UK. It gave me a better idea what to look for. Indeed, the engine seemed to appreciate the 100plus. @Stonekeeper - I was just being very cautious, before posting I initially tried looking up how to achieve 98 octane petrol by mixing fuel ratios (wasn't sure if mixing fuels follows a linear relationship) and came across posts that said some engines don't get along well with higher octane than recommended in the manual - I agree that the Skoda's manual carries the greatest weight and it states in black on white that it accepts higher octane, but wanted to double check with other people's hands on experience 😁 @nta16 - higher cleaning additives content sounds like a good reason to get the premium petrol, I'd rather prevent & delay issues rather than fix them - I was just a bit stuck with the fact that 98 octane was very hard to find and wanted to be sure 100 is safe to use, but I've overcome that concern, thank you! @leolito - I checked with the local community, they recommended OMV/Petrom, but advised against refueling at Lukoil; couldn't find any lab results so I'll have to stick to the popular opinion from the forums - right now I'm running a 50-50% mix, but I'll try out increasing the proportion of 100plus octane petrol over the next month to see how the engine behaves Cheers!

I wasn't joking when I put your observations would help others, particularly those thinking or looking to buy the model. Cruise control is another thing I don't like but until a couple of years ago I was driving a 1973 MG Midget so used to what was on it (very little) being fully manual/mechanical, this one did have cabin and boot light though, no additional electrics at all, and no real point having a radio/"stereo" let alone a clock/phone thingy. Personally I find the gear change feel a bit clonky but if not rushed (at all) it's fine for a family hatch/estate, I changed the gearbox oil and that helped a tiny fraction for a while at least. The interfering computer programs to me are a PITA and my wife said what I'd warned about finally happened the other day, whilst she was driving slowly in traffic the front anti-collision thing threw up a warning and jumped on the brakes for no apparent reason and then she saw a bag blowing in the wind. It showed as inactive before and then was OK I said probably a big leaf had got stuck to to the grille. Then there are the other over concern computer programs, but you get similar on all modern cars now. I also drive neighbours' cars, one a 2023 Ren-No! Nissan has all the modern auto stuff (and adaptive cruise control I believe) with start/stop/ electronic handbrake but being manual gearbox it's computer programs are like an over nervous driver that gets itself unnecessarily into very awkward situations whilst it divers about deciding what it should do and what it will allow the driver to do, lane-assist (as it says in the Handbook) has lots of requirements to work properly so is very hit&miss, off&on, so unreliable when perhaps really needed but very interfering when not needed, I've no idea if this id the same for VW products. I do very, very occasionally sit in the back and really like to have the windup windows, I do however occasionally wind the windows up and down again when I open the back doors to give them exercise to stop them sticking as the back seats and windows are so rarely used, same for the car horn so I know it works for MoT, I rarely use the horn other than humpback bridges and a blind areas. As I put you do as you please with your car and reporting back is very good and helpful to others.

Thanks for your reply. No coding and no new parts fitted. It is a 5 speed manual CJZD engine Fabia 2017 MKIII. I purchased MaxiEcu because it was a European company based in Poland - thinking this scanner would be great for all European cars. Unfortunately it has been the opposite experience for VAG diagnostics. I have reported such issues several times to customer support in Poland - but no luck. However it does have some good features with other brands so its not going in the bin yet. There were 3 errors reported on the message centre which are fairly common if there is a wheels speed sensor issue. The problem is to find out which sensor on which wheel so I dont have to pull out the oscilloscope to check each wheel sensor. I scanned all the modules and the errors above were reported - but these numbers need to be decoded into an OBD code or some other plain language. I put these numbers in google with no luck hence I posted here. Skoda has a reasonable following in Australia - along with VW/Audi - albeit we are a very tiny market. I bought this MKIII Fabia new - it was very cheap at the time. The car is extremely enjoyable to drive and I have just done 81,000 miles without an issue. Japanese cars are well made but have no soul. I could have bought a Honda but it was noisy inside, was poorly appointed and the stereo sounded like one from the 90,s. Maybe someone can recommend a good scanner model for this car - one that is bidirectional.

Do you know which is the version with port injection and which is direct injection only, as that would be a decision factor for me?

Hi, Gaz, and thanks! I always had a fancy, but 2nd hand (pre-loved) Yetis are like hens teeth here on the Island. The Missus' VW (Golf Sportline estate) started playing up just before Christmas: an intermittent electrical fault that left us stranded a few times and baffled the local Autosparks. Time for a change. Not easy as she doesn't like change, wants a Goldilocks car: not too big, not too small, not too expensive to run, not too slow, not too fast, has to be diesel, manual and definitely not white..... Anyway, this one popped up at the right time at a local dealer, so we have it! The cabin layout is very similar to the VW, which makes her happy. The power is slightly less and the gearing slightly different (better for local conditions) and it's green. Basically the same car with a different body. She's happy. Win! I drive it more than she, but I don't really give a damn what I drive (I have a beat up 2005 RAV4, which won't die, for when we need to tow or to have two cars). But I must admit I'm liking the Yeti so far. It works very well on our rural roads. PO put a full-size spare in the boot, so the floor is a mess. There's a bit of peeling paint on the top of the rear bumper. She'd like front sensors and a parking camera. I *think* the Info unit is a Bolero: I'd like to get the Smart interface sorted so I can use my phone as a satnav when we're off-Island. Otherwise, it's fine. Paul .... lost in the Irish Sea

Hello Ray I went the other way, Octavia to a Golf. Still skulking around here though 😇 Gaz

So after a bit of swotting, I'm coming up with the possibility of needing to upgrade the CAN Gateway. I may also need to upgrade the BCM, to pave the way for the Virtual Cockpit. I imagine that both of those require a fair chunk of Component Protection sorting out in addition to other things beyond simple coding. BCM for example sounds like the keys would need to be assigned to it. This also seems to be the case for the Virtual Cockpit as well. So would mean needing to do things twice if I do it in stages. I guess spread over a period of time it's not a bother, but still feels a bit silly to me. It is what it is I suppose. Current options are: Source a BCM, looks like circa 5Q0 937 084 CG or above (DC? DD?). The existing one is 5Q0 937 084 AN according to VCDS Source a CAN gateway. Existing one is 5Q0 907 530 M (5Q0 907 530 AJ software?) and other posts on the forums cite ones starting 3Q0 such as 3Q0 907 530 C, based on this post: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/491347-how-to-retrofit-virtual-cockpit/?do=findComment&comment=5820532 Get both sorted in regards Component Protection and keys and coding, etc. from someone who has the required online access. Do the Virtual Cockpit in the future, with the steps in 3 done again but just for the Virtual Cockpit, everything else hopefully already in place. OR Do it all in one go, Virtual Cockpit included, so the someone can handle all three things in one wallop. OR Call it off for now, put the original steering wheel back in, stuff should be ok as before (re-code to remove the heated steering wheel heating from the touchscreen menu). This is all mainly for the cruise control/ACC to be sorted, but I suppose if the Virtual Cockpit is on the cards, I'll have to pony up eventually. I've ordered some more DSG oil, I'll re add about 2-3 litres and warm it through again. Hopefully I can raise and level out the car with the wheels on, as I don't want to get it all up on axle stands again. MoT is booked for 20 May, and insurance will kick in then. It was £460 based on 3 years no claims (from a previous Company Car) which was better than earlier quotes of circa £550 and better than the £900 quote for said previous Company Car (Tesla Model 3, up from £450 the year before!). Maintenance: £2299.88 Upgrades: £1379.46 Miscellaneous: £697.20

It trickle feeds that useless battery it the hybrid has.

Clearly related to Mrs Gaz 🙄

Your rear brakes are described as C38HR Lucas, so I'd be confident in saying 38mm piston diameter. Seal kit has part number 8D0698671, which has been superseded by 2G0698671.

I probably shouldn't share this much info from TPIs but I'm so sick of Australian dealers lying to owners. You can download this info yourself from here by creating a free account and paying for an hour of access: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do Version 1803 is woefully out of date. You should be on at least 1949. Being an Australian vehicle you don't have an SOS system/OCU Module. However, there is a TPI to get the audio system updated if you have the optional Canton system. BUT, as this TPI states you need to be one at least on version 1896 before they can apply the audio module update. So your dealer has been lying - which is unsurprising to me based on my experience. If your car is older then 2022, you may also need you climatic module update too - see this thread:

Dashcams come in all different shapes and sizes, also different resolution, you really want to look for HD as a minimum, preferably 4K. Also a decent memory card of at least 64Gb, or more if the camera will accept it. You can choose to have it hard wired in by a professional or just use the USB C socket on the side of the rear view mirror. Boot liners, Bumper lip protectors are available from your dealer, eBay, Amazon or Skoda Parts Online Your car should come complete with floor mats, so you won't need to buy them otherwise try Carmats4U or CarMats.co.uk Home charger you should have been advised about that by your dealer. Or you may want to consider the "AA solar charger" which is about £30 from eBay or Amazon (definitely no more than £30, it plugs into your cars diagnostic port. There's a slightly more powerful one for ~£40. Just put it in the dashboard and plug it in. Door protector or bump strips can be had cheaply on eBay or Temu (I use TEMU) they cost about £2 for clear ones, plus another £2 for door corner protectors.

There's a seller on ebay who can supply all the car's build codes and factory options for about 3 Euros (about £2.50). This will tell you what wheels the car came out of the factory with. According to Jurid on autodoc, the Octavia MK2 2.0TDI 140HP has 288x25mm front brakes discs, so 15" wheels would clear the front brake calipers. Search "skoda vin decoder" on ebay to find this listing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224631127243

Hello there 🙂 introducing my 2011 skoda superb estate mk2 1.6 tdi greenline in rosso brunello. It's a UK reg lhd, imported from the Netherlands, bought in January. I'm currently living in Southampton in the UK and I'll permanently leave the country later this year, so I was looking for a lhd estate to drive to Portugal. I'm really pleased with the car, it's my first skoda and I'm surprised about the build quality, reliability, fuel efficiency, comfort... Already got some mods planned, will keep you guys updated.

Same here. Used Bosch Aerotwin on all three of my Skoda (Octavia, Yeti and Karoq). Have not found better wipers blades - yet!

I've driven quite a few 'R's and they don't do it for me. Dunno why really, especially if I'm looking at a 272/280. The garage that sold the Dragon Green one have just taken another DG Superb in as a part x. This one's a 2018 280, so I popped over to take a look: 19k miles, FSH inc. haldex (2021), brake fluid twice, plugs. Pair of obscure tyres on the front, original (I presume) Pirelli's on the rear. Wheels have minor kerb damage and whiteworm, pin dent in OSF door, minor paint scuff on the OSR quarter leading edge. Both rear discs a tad grubby, pads good. Hasn't got a reversing camera - that surprised me. Standard CC, not ACC. Drove very nice, needs a service. TPMS went off while I was out, for both NS tyres. They'll do the service, wheels, PDR and paint. But they want £23k for it, which seems a bit strong to me. Offered me £16k for the GTI. I'm undecided about it. Gaz Edit: Just did a free valuation of the GTI on AutoTrader - £17,600. Mine's also got heated leather, sunroof, ACC, Virtual Cockpit, full LED lighting, and 34k miles so any adjustment would probably go up. Autotrader similarly have this 280 at £18,430!

It's sorted. Was a piece of glass lodged in it from when my window broke last year. I did end up taking the casing off though but it's back together ok. Getting the seat base out and back in was the most awkward bit.

@DanielleWelcome. What is it a 2.0 TSI and Manual or DSG? Or a 1.5 TSI ACT. Do you get these in Australia? Any further on with the Dealership diagnosing and sorting the fault?

Both trips were for weddings so a good excuse to go. First time was 7 years ago and we toured North and South Islands. This time we stayed in the Queenstown area and were able to do boat trips, including the jet boat, that we didn't do last time. Arthur's Pass is stunning - trouble is going round every corner presented a new photographic opportunity! One of the great things about NZ is that you can park easily (and usually free) in beautiful spots e.g. down by a lake and often they'd be few people there - over here it would be rammed!

I've seen this twice "live" with my body and my wallet at a safe distance from the vehicle in question. "James Bond" smokescreens generated on both occasions, and oil consumption around one gallon per mile. (estimate)

In the rubber boot going from the car into the door

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/404143-radiator-fan-repair-courtesy-of-vortex-here-and-uk-mkiv-forum/

Hi, I've got a Superb iV with and it had the same problem. It's a 23 plate. SE tech. Anyway, I had it booked in to be repaired for this under warranty, then last night the car told me there was a system update available, so I selected to download it (which took a couple of hours) then told it to install (which took 20 -30 mins) and behold the terrible crackly outgoing phone sound is fixed!!! Another bonus I noticed today is that it will now do Android Auto through bluetooth without having to have the phone plugged it!! Result! Cancelled my repair booking as it's now great! The screenshot attached is how it is now, since the update.

What does the sticker on the slam panel under the bonnet say? I wouldn’t go by the manual, they’re only accurate at the point they’re printed. I am also a believer that the wider use of 0W20 and 0W30 oils are primarily to improve emissions and / or economy, not engine or component longevity. I’ve no idea what oil the dealer is using in my 2018 1.4 TSI ACT, I meant to ask last week after it’s last service, but forgot. If I was servicing it myself I’d be using VW507.00 Quantum Longlife III (5W30). If your mileage is increasing I am not sure I’m following your logic for moving from fixed to variable service intervals. A fixed interval will remind you for a service after 12 months. Opinion varies, but I’m a supporter of regular annual oil changes.

The setting is inactive most probably because your phone is connected by other means (Android Auto). So go to Media/Radio from main menu, there go to Settings, select Bluetooth audio device and there select your phone. It will ask you if you want to switch back to Bluetooth instead of Android Auto, click Yes. This will make the setting active. Though via Android Auto it will still be quiet I think.

Latest Updated Speedcams - January, 2024. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( January, 2024 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - January, 2024.zip

https://www.volkswagen-newsroom.com/en/electronic-differential-lock-xds-3943