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The UK,s National Grid which is not the UK,s and certainly does not take available electricity from around the UK but prefers to buy it from Continental Europe is part of the issue. Then England not generating as much as it might because views might be spoilt is another reason.

Well after nearly 4 months of ownership, O finally found the source of one of the most annoying rattles. It sound a little plastic bag of nuts and bolts sliding along under the carpet behind the drivers seat. I have pulled bench seat, the bolster, the boot carpet ( estate ) rear driver footwell, lower trim the runs from the front to the back. After all my efforts, it was a broken biro on the rear floor air vents ! Even after checking them with an endoscope, I still missed it.tje first time. After 2½ hours over the past 2 days , I eventually removed it. Using my endoscope with a hook, long clear tube connected to my vacuum cleaner! What an ordeal.

Might be going bit off-topic, and I do not really need (never got so many, pity), but how does the law considers fitting a 4ppl-seat in a 3ppl-seat? And you would be in exceed of the registration documents if seating 2 in the front and 4 in the rear. Or this does not matter in UK or other places?

I'd be more concerned with "does it have a full service history including things like correctly done DSG (and Haldex if applicable) services?" than "Approved used" checks like "does it have a wheel and tyre at each corner?"

Will Shires actually made my point for me, it one thing to have the truck, but it is useless without adequate charging infrastructure for trucks as most of the trucks go out for a week or longer at times before returning to base. This is especially true for owner operators who pick up loads and deliver them and then pick other loads etc all the time, they will need that infrastructure. He also said that even in Norway and Sweden, there are not enough truck friendly public chargers and that infrastructure will be critical in transferring trucks over to electric. Currently electric is fine for the last mile type of delivery and firms like Amazon and some other ones are already using them as they return to base every night and can get charged overnight.

Rear removal and replacement is very simpl eif you make one cut which is held together rigidly when the new disc is bolted up, the old ones you can usually tear off with your bare hands. @Danoid They will be far gone if visibly "pretty rusty" likely only the original paint holding them together, you would have to remove them to spray paint and I have always paid less than €10 for new ones, until the Dutch company Action opened shops in France it would have cost me more for an Aerosol paint than the brake backplates!!!

Get them off and do an Edd China special*, be cheaper, unless they’re too far gone * Satin black spray

I'd be pretty certain that will be the windscreen seal that has started to harden and unstuck somewhere. We had similar on our Fabia estate and Octavia 4x4. You can check by sticking electrical insulation tape around the top and sides of the screen between the screen and bodywork to see if the water ingress stops. If it does just seal the windscreen to the body again using polysulphide sealant over the top of the original.

Spot on. front is easy, rear involves lots more removal.

It IS indeed. One of the argues to change from Mk2 to Mk3 was the width between armrests for rear passenger. Having 3 children, I knew I would face trouble to install 3 child seats in a row (2 Group 2-3 + 1 Group 1-2-3) in the Mk2, when my youngest was about to switch from Group 0+ to Group 1. There are actually 3-4 more cm in the Mk3, which make "all" the difference. No problem to put all 3 child seats.

It's a fair while since I've provided an update on Weti so here goes - I stripped the interior to just the front seats back in October when I first noticed my problem (no carpet, sound deadening or headlining) to understand where the water was coming in. Over the last 6 months or so I saw water coming in as the OP described and like many attempted to resolve the issue with Captain Tolleys, with limited success. Around 6 weeks ago I made a further modification to the sunroof rubber using a bicycle inner tube (I shared this proposed solution back in October but have since refined it). Thankfully, I have not had a drop of water through the sunroof since the revision. If it withstands this evening's absolute downpour (I have no reason to expect it won't) I'll reassemble the interior and share with the rest of the group what I have done providing there is still a big enough audience. How have other group members been getting on with their Weti issues over the Spring period?

Recently got ourselves a Karoq, first Skoda for us and we really like it. Replaces a Tiguan for the family moving duties. Anyway for whatever reason the lighter socket on the Karoq is always live which isn't very useful for powering a dashcam. Had a look for a how-to for tapping a switched feed from the fusebox but only found little bits of info here and there so here is my quick guide to how I've done it. Convieniently there is a fuse box right behind the glove box (UK RHD car). Getting to the fuse box was in my opinion the most difficult task! The instruction manual does describe the process but it still took some figuring out. The glovebox is hinged at the bottom, has 2 bump stops (one either side) and a damping arm. The damping arm is removed by first pressing the lowest pivot point of the arm towards the engine, this should free the bottom pivot point and allow the arm to be detatched from the glove box. The 2 bump stops are freed by pressing them away from the glove box, see photo. From there it's pretty straigh foward. I used piggy-back/add a fuse to take a switched feed from fuse 47. For a return I used a ring tag on the T27 torx bolt that holds the fusebox in place, it's not ideal as the fuse box is plastic but I couldn't find anything easier or better that didn't probably involve taking more things apart. Routing the cable to the dashcam was simple, drops easily out the back of the glove/fuse box, behind the rubber seal up the door frame/A pillar and along the top of the headlining/windscreen. Hope this helps others with installing a dashcam. Cheers John

for those interested in this sort of thing, I've now had my Yeti 1.2tsi for 11 years and being somewhat nerdy have kept fill-to-fill fuel consumption records since new. Over the 11 years I've average a very reasonable 41.4 mpg with a best of 47.1mpg. Last week I'd booked a week's holiday in the Peak District but for family reasons the journey was Portsmouth-Hull-Ashbourne and return the following week. Between long stretches of motorway driving and the hills and narrow roads of the Peak District the Yeti's reputation of driving a brick through the air at anything over about 50mph suggested I'd be lucky to see 40mpg. In fact I was surprised to get a genuine 46mpg for the 1,150 miles I did. Which I don't think was at all bad for the types of driving i did and for more than half the miles it was with three adults and all the luggage needed for a week's holiday (i.e. packed to fill every available space). Not a bad result for a petrol engine.

Slowly slowly catchy monkey. Well done. 6 years on & I'm still trying to find out why my drivers seat still creaks & clicks. Been doing it since I got the car in 2018. Tried finding any loose nuts or screws to no avail. I fear that complete seat removal will be the only solution which is why I have not tackled it properly yet.

I was of course talking about the price of electric at public chargers, not that derived from home wind generators or solar arrays, or via V2H

+1 for video with VIN number, without registration plate. Always worked for me. Edit: Also with visible mileage.

Is that a royal we? No need to live in the UK or buy the electricity if people do not like the cost of it. Plenty do not. Most of the world don't.

Just finished watching that video and it was an eye-opener to see just how much we are being ripped off over here for electric and just how poor the supply appears to be to what charging network we have, McMaster claimed he had zero issues with cost or chargers and all the chargers were superfast, indicating plenty of grid power being supplied so there was no slow down if 2 or more cars charging at the same time. And the roads, wow, did they ship all of their potholes over to us? Lets hope and pray that after the GE is over and the new party get settled in that we can start to address those areas.

There won't be any fault code. As far as I am aware, it is possible to see logs and see at least reboots there triggered by some errors, but no fault codes as those which prompt messages on dashboard, which workshops use as an excuse to do nothing. You need to record your VIN together with the issue. So make a video of the problem and then move camera to show VIN under the windshield. They can't reject this evidence. Yes, it is. As someone who had 20+ trips to workshops and most of them were because of similar issues, I know. Saying all that, my issue appeared again after I thought that switching off wifi helped. On top of that now volume goes up. Though they were supposed to deal with my infotainment yesterday during planned visit to change gear selector, they did nothing because they "had no connection with Skoda and couldn't do any works" and gave me next appointment in 2 weeks from now. Yay! Love this brand more and more.

“Good news, we found your stolen car sir thanks to the tracker”. “Ah great, where is it?” ”Bottom of the lake up the road”.

Round and round and round the track and all the engineering and research and passes on the technology to the road and safety. What a pith take really. Like rallying, drag racing and much else. But then Formula-e and X-treme off road is as much a load of micky taking. There is no carbon offset or anything like it. But that is how things are. Smoke and mirrors and have fun and make money and provide entertainment. The Red Bull Soap box stuff amazes me how spectators turn out for anything. I do miss the days of making a carty from a pram,s wheels, a fish box and some timber... Hill climbs and sprints and off reading as well. But then it is not like it has to be done. Maybe just as well doing driving people to hospital etc. Now maybe that could be a job for redundant race drivers, get a useful driving job as a volunteer. PS. I am not serious. Because we know nobody just gives up their play things, steam engines, tractors, cars, bikes, planes, boats or anything that is their passion or hobby just because others think they should.

Unfortunately the 3.40' is a ''rule'' for VW no matter the season but if there is one positive thing is that now with the modified air box filter in the first few hundered meters the car is one click smoother. Does not wan't to go forward as use to, it's not abrupt as before, i can't describe exactly that but for sure you have felt it in the carburettor days when the chock was pulled out and the engine was in a ''hurry'' mode. Fuel Consumption now is one click lower even in City traffic, i have photos to post and the TC-6 proves it.

Noticed the haldex was not working, found a fault code stored with 0448 intermittent open circuit fault. Thought I’d check the state of the filter and strainer first as unfortunately not a lot of garages know they have a filter and strainer on the pump too. The filter I don’t think had ever been off the outer plastic fought me the entire way off. The strainer on the pump wasn’t too bad. With the pump removed, the resistance check showed it up as out of spec too low should be 5-8ohms and light tapping on the motor makes it go all over the shop so now new motor on order. waiting to put the new filter in once the pumps here so I can prime it a little. Also waiting for my diff oil to turn up. amazing that the pump was still original

The Brake Fluid should have been changed at 30,000 miles or 3 years. Maybe even @ 2 years and 4 years. The Pollen filter at 2 years and 4 years. The Spark Plugs at 40,000 miles or 4 years. The Rigorous checks should have been done as well as serviced to the Manufacturers Guidelines, Recommendations, Schedule or Specification as per Extended / Used Warranty T&C,s and what ever wording. Many Approved Used car seem to get a Warranty without being as per those terms. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/523355-skoda-approved-used-the-100-checks Really the sales person should know the Service History, what has been missed if anything, should know the Warranty T&C,s word for word. It is their full time job really, selling and buying or taking in trade-ins. If asked questions and do not know then they should find out the truthful answer.

Mine flashes red when close to the car, pretty sure it's normal as the key and car can see each other.

Welcome. Are they really Skoda Approved Used cars, or cars with a Warranty that will be valid? (Edited) Is there the required Service History. Do the Oil and filter services show as Annual / 9,400 miles, so Fixed Regime for a 1.4 TSI PHEV. The DQ400-e DSG was or is due a Oil change at 40,000 miles, has that been done with the 45,000 mile car?

Will Shiers is clearly who I meant, I thought that his name might have been Shires judging by the way he said his name. It was a long time ago when I did a bit of truck driving, but nothing has changed in the meantime apart from there are now many more smaller hauliers out there and fewer of the Eddie Stobart's and I have friends who are doing just that right now, started with a van doing express couriering, grew to a few vans and now moved on to bigger curtain sided trucks, living in the cabs during the week and trying to get back home at weekends.

Found one on eBay. 12.95. but bought for 10 30. They had a discount code. Hopefully have it by Saturday and will put it back together.

Ah, so you’ve organised a new bit, I must have started writing that post while you were posting!

A small child running behind the car and not being hit means every false stop is worth it. Common is a child or big stupid child puts a bike or scooter down behind you. Again thank goodness for technology.

MY17 Superb 220. If by "pigweed" u mean steering wheel - yes, as per my post, my original had DSG paddles already.

If it using the brakes then it is disengaging the drive just as if the driver was using the brakes pedal. If actually coasting then the braking might feel a bit sharp or then engaged drive a little delayed. The electrification so the Mild hybrids and PHEV,s should help smoother starts and stopping and does with plenty electrified cars, if Skoda or VW group are not managing to achieve that with some then we know why. Always chasing the WLTP results and forgetting drivers in the real world.

@UndertheRadar never seen those before! Thanks 👍

there are 3 things that immediately strike me about the Tesla "semi" 1) It looks very American (no surprises) 2) there doesn't appear to be any cab accomodation for sleepovers 3) they've stuck with traditional wing mirrors (I believe many Euro trucks are switching to cameras for higher aerodynamic efficiency) I do like the central driving position though and that's something that would probably be more useful over this side of the pond. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xf7irdXn7xA&t=743s

That's good to know if ever I need to sit in the back. I think it does not seem as wide in the front, but thinking about it, the centre consol is wider than the mk2, so I expect that is where the extra width is then and not in the seats.👍

I just ordered the OEM Monroe from Autodoc for £120 each. I'll be happy with them if they last another 65k miles. Once I do the DCC slider mod then that will sort most of my concerns with it feeling so underdamped. I believe the shocks themselves are the same as those on the GOLF GTI and R, the soggy Superb is down to software mostly.

I hope you get some other answers.

OP was asking about 1.0 TSI.

Many things:- Normally accompanied for a short time by a message in the MDF and further info on the Car section of the Infotainment screen. Might have not gone though. Car Manuals are available on line to download. Thanks. AG Falco

So take one off a road corner and see it it fits in the spare wheel well.

Overthinking it IMO. Just use the car. The DSG will last as long as it lasts. Millions of DSG,s are driven in many ways by many people. Maybe just do not leave a DQ381 to 80,000 miles before an oil change and if you ever notice an issue with it do not delay in having it checked out. PS With DQ200,s & DQ250,s in slower traffic putting them in S has usually been the thing to do to stop them hunting between 1st and 2nd. It was / is most annoying with a 7 speed twin dry clutch as 1st is so low, compared to a 6 speed. (So a bit more like a 7 speed DQ381.)

I've spoken to my local skoda dealer and they basically told me they know nothing about it and if that's how they work it must be right. Fair enough I was chatting with women on reception and then she was forwarding it to their technicians (as if they couldn't come to speak with me directly). I'll have to go there soon when I book my car for recall and try to speak with someone more educated.

I did mine a couple of years ago and don't recall them being particularly bad. I was most likely working on axle stands in the yard. I probably jacked the car up and gave them a spray with whatever was in the shed the night before and left it to soak. I think you can get to the bottom end of the bolt with a can with a straw on to spray it up - that's probably well worthwhile. I've got it in my head that I used a long spline bit on an extension so I could knock it all the way into the head of the bolt, then had the bar behind the spring and shock, rather than in front of it, as per the picture. I'm not totally sure on that though, like I say, it wasn't particularly memorable, so it can't have been that bad. I normally use a 600mm breaker bar and a set of cheap impact-rated spline bits for that sort of job. I've got a feeling I didn't use the impact gun because I couldn't get it in the space available. When I'm trying to get a spline or stardrive off, I normally give them a yank in the wrong direction first to break the rust seal without damaging the bits of the head I'm going to rely on to loosen it. Applying constant force doesn't break fixing loose, you need to shock them. Don't know if any of that's any help, I'm just sat in my armchair

https://allstarcard.co.uk/resources/ev-insights/allstar-charge-place-scotland-network CPS have now turned on roaming with Allstar. Hopefully Electroverse next 🤞

That's a more basic model, so unlikely to have it I'm afraid.

previous 2016 Mk3 and current 2023 Mk3.FL

Hey Gaz, I learned the hard way when buying a used Skoda from Barlow Motors.... It was sold to me as being Approved Used right up until I needed help then all of a sudden it's with a third party company, so wouldn't believe anything. My car was also down as having an Extended Scope Service... Nope they hadn't done a single thing to the car. Just check and double check with them at every step.

SW upgrade does NOT activate ANdroid Auto, it is protected with FEC/SWaP codes, so must be either activated by Skoda dealer or unit must be patched.

Hi - did a load of research - I've always put All Terrain tyres on my 4x4s - amazing off road, which I often am (muddy fields), and amazing in the snow - really amazing. It's why I don't buy winter tyres, I go AT for winter - I get the almost best of both worlds - mud, and snow. I say almost as apparently an AT tyre won't be as good as a true winter tyre on packed snow - but they are damn close - close enough you'd not notice unless really pushing it. Used to have a Disco 3 and ran General Grabber AT2s on it. Amazing in mud and snow. Downsized to the Yeti for the running costs and MPG abd wanted ATs for winter but there just are not any that fit either the 16 or 17" wheels. Nothing that I'd buy anyhow - not impressed with the look or price of the Geolanders, which seem the only option staying within tyre size spec. I read in several places the Russians put 215/65 R16s on their Yetis for the extra lift in the snow. The tyre size comparison sites told me the 215/65 R16 tyres would be 3 cm overall diameter bigger than what I have for summer - 225/50 R17. So I bought 4 x Insa Turbo Ranger AT remoulds at £60 each. Mus and snow rated. They are a copy of the BF Goodridge AT tyres. For less than half the price. ... and then 4 x 16" 6.50 J ET42 Alloys for £75 each from Oponeo. (Why buy steels for £42 when you can have alloys for £75? 🙂 ) Fitted them 2 days ago. 1st observation was that the size of the tread on the Insa Turbos makes them 5cm bigger (total diameter) not 3cm. They "just " touch the front arch inner plastic liner on full lock, on one side only. Touching at the back of the arch, on full lock. This happens only when parking and gives a small squeal on full lock . This is reducing to almost silent after day 2 so I'm assuming some of the initial rubber is wearing off where it contacts, or the plastic liner is giving a bit. Other than that , no issues. I rockon after a few thousand miles there won't be any contact. Lifts the car a bit too (hence the photo from the rear - left wheels installed, originals still on the right). Been off road since the photos and they behave as expected - excellently. Now hoping for snow 🙂

I ended up replacing the lower edges of both wings are they too were really rough. Like a Tea-bag! (See above pictures). Not like you'd know it from the exterior though. A dab of filler, seam sealer and primer after this.