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That was prior to mib3. Mib3 they removed the radio logo import adhoc option. The updates have to be via authorised (signed files) you can mess with in mib3/4.

No argument here, EV works for some and not others. I believe the 'others' group will get smaller and smaller over time, while those worried about having EV foisted on them are rightly sceptics. This is why its important those of us with EVs tell the truth about running one, so people get facts not FUD.

I had similar fun with all in one, made them change the spark plugs on the second visit (even though they had been done on a service previous to taking policy out. I simply said it includes a set in the price, so might as well have them done even though not due. They accepted it and I made sure it was written on sheet when I checked car in, to avoid receptionist forgetting to pass on message

The wiring for the charger runs from a small consumer unit that also supplies electric to a garden room and any other loads I do not want to be protected in future. That consumer unit is wired to the unprotected side of the Giv-Gateway. Initially, when the car was charging it did not take from solar / house battery as the load was not detected. The installer came back and moved a CT clamp so the unprotected load was detected when operating. The CT clamp is within the Giv-Gateway, so I cannot tell you what was done.

and except for the privileged minority who can charge at home longer term the majority of future EV users will likely need to rely on public charging

Telling it like it is, as do I. There's no point lying to folks about the realities of running an EV. My story is a good one (cheap, easy, no queues blah blah), his is not so good due to relying on public charging so much.

Really simple to renew tax for 12 months: 1. go to https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-tax 2. select I have V5C 3. Enter info (reg and V5C numbers) 4. Check detail page will say: "Your vehicle will be taxed from 01 August 2024 Are you aware that your vehicle's current tax is not due to expire until 01 October 2024?" (for my Leaf) 5. Click continue. Done, new renewal date in August. Start date 01 August 2024 Duration 12 Months Vehicle make NISSAN Price £0.00 6. Final screen: "12 month vehicle tax for vehicle registration DS64 xxx valid from 01 August 2024 £0.00" Due to pre 2017, this Leaf ZEV (as well as ultra low emission diesels) are only subject to £30 VED. So I don't care much about its renewal date.

you're doing a sterling job of promoting the EV dream ;o)

sw 0469 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1beCIB9KJOLtceKgXMZBLW9vjY5yLK9Xh/view?usp=drive_link

I sincerely hope not as it's a right fiddle if it is...

which year, what camera? 5Q, 3Q or 2Q?

If you had maps on disk drive then probably it is broken or corrupted... First of all, upgrade firmware to 6276 - I will send you link in PM - and then install maps from DVD (I beleive you will get some link to the image)

It should be that at the Full revenue weight of an electric passenger vehicle *(car or minibuses,) for UK roads at UK speed limits and at 0*,C they should be achieving 4 miles a kWh. Any ones when checked annually or bi-annual and that have not bettered the likes of 3.5 miles a kWh should have an additional penalty to be paid. This should be easy enough to impose on Business users getting BIK assistance from the general public / treasury. It is not right that people can charge at home pay a domestic Tax rate to charge vehicles while at public charges others pay the high tax rate. ,,,,New ICE card should also be required to meet fuel efficiencies. 4 miles to a litre of fuel at Full Revenue weight does not seem unreasonable. Lots of big fat lumps of cars are going around towns and cities and rural areas with just a driver and there are bigger and bigger BEV,s and PHEV,s that are the same, big battery cars that are needed for occasional longer journeys and yet getting Tax Payer assistance to be bought or leased for Business use. MOTABILITY are assisting in people getting pretty large BEV,s and this is because Manufacturers want these vehicles sold / first registered. Encouraging bigger and heavier vehicles than the person or family need for daily use buy making the advance payment cheap is madness IMO.

Tracking down my brake fluid leak and after degreasing and cleaning it all, at first I thought it was leaking from the odd one-way screw in the bottom of the brake servo, but looking at the photo it looked like it was between the servo and master cylinder. Soo good news! The master cylinder is fine. Bad news! The servo is leaking hydraulic fluid. And it’s out! As always, there was rust to clean up, and something not fitted correctly- the return spring in this case.

Amazing the difference a 30mm suspension drop and wheel spacers make to the PJ3. How the Monte Carlo should look from factory.

Which dealer was it ?

erWin is the Electronic Repair and Workshop Information service. It is the web portal that they ( Skoda ) input your service records on. The portal asks what has been done ( Last Service-s ) then suggested what wants to be done now. I can tell it what I have just done, even if it is an item than is not suggested. Eg. Pollen filter. Thanks. AG Falco

added 2024.08 links into head post Mib2 - v1.10.52 Mib3 - nothing new ? Mib3+ ? Mib4 - v1.31.52

Well... have you still got the car? The really good news is that my car lives to fight another year. Despite what I found when trying to run the O2 sensor test it just passed the emissions test and I have another year of MOT. 'Drive it like you stole it' said the guy when he advised me to thrash it. 5,000 RPM for 20mins at a time is scary - especially when I don't know how old the timing belt is! I'll try to remember to update this thread when I get the new sensor in but meanwhile, thanks to you and all the others who advised.

Is this this brake servo hose? If so, why is it full of coolant? I want to take it off to make sure it has no splits... that being said, if it hasn't leaked coolant, surely there's no splits?

It’s need to be clear background not blue, that’s the issue I’ve found. If you were to drive in EU places they can stop you for having blue background as it’s not legal

Yea my noise has not changed since I bought the Octavia in 2017. It seems by design for sure.

I have lots of easy charging, some free charging and some errors where I get free charging by accident of the suppliers. But this is in Scotland and in places that are often not well known and I am not telling everyone about. Charge Place Scotland and the councils they own chargers is really the issue. And who most of the 32 councils had their maintenance contracts with, SWARCO. Separate from the Division running CPS. Then the old chargers council have and the hopeless response to getting them repaired. There are councils with SWARCO having a love in like Dundee. There are councils with others doing the maintenance and prompt repairs. Thank goodness though for Commercial chargers now and over 50 kW units. And near facilities. There are areas that are hopeless though like Royal Deeside and the southern Cairgorms. Tourist routes. PS. Heading to the Highlands so next stop Blairgowrie where charging not an issue. Then north into the hills the Rapids can be so the MINI is fine. Just get on the AC chargers which are reliable or if needs must a 3 pin socket.. once up to Deeside and the Cairgorms it lots of downhills to get to charging.

TBH the problem, as he is well aware when choosing this vehicle, is driving quite long distances in a short range EV. I've had and once a year still do experience this (for MOT). This hugely shrinks charge point search radius. So even if charge point not suitable, going to plan B may mean it's the final destination and usually not worth it. So need to wait on the phone to sort it out. With longer range EV, public charging is rarely a problem. After 2 hours, if this rest stop can't charge it, simply drive 1 more hour to the next rest stop.

I think as long as you stick to something like this you should be fine They have many variations like the following which i would avoid!

Moved things around to have a section for parts cars Carbs on Can do it with my eyes closed. Couldnt find a gasket set so had to wait to get material and make one. Gave it a service while I was waiting for the gasket stuff to come. Oil change plus fuel filters. Some gunk in old ones but not major like I'm used to seeing. All looking nice and standard. Fitted the spots but didn't wire them in yet. Took it for a run and it drove very well, filled it with fresh fuel plus used an E10 additive. And took it to a local car show yesterday. Only gave it a quick wash as it was raining, just to get the dust off. Going very well so far so.

Glad you like it, bluntsteakknife. Here's a square-on view of the finished article. Lowering springs can be a bit of a Midweek lLottery in terms of the result but these Eibach springs do exactly what they say on the tin - 30mm drop on the rear and 30-40mm drop on the front. Not sure what Skoda are thinking about with the stock, farmyard suspension.

Vibrations through the vehicle are usually due to rear wheel balancing issues, mainly because of either weights falling off or pothole damage. Vibration through the steering wheel is usually down to the front wheel balancing for the same issues.

I have only ever known the renewal date to change when a car is transferred to another keeper. Except: If you where paying monthly by DD you could change to annual in any month. But there is no option to pay £0 a year monthly

Today we just tested android auto and apple carplay in new superb. Everything worked perfectly with android auto: using waze the directions appeared on the driver display and HUD, also infotainment screen did not went black during changing climate temperature or changing drive mode while using waze. Unfortunately apple carplay was not able to provide any direction information on the drivers display nor HUD. Also during temperature change and selecting drive mode with smart dial, the screen turned black while using carplay. As I'm user of apple product, it's quite frustrating and hope that there will be some improvement about it soon.

Currently at 35K suggests you have time either way. I'm sure Root will be along to mention the lack of service staff understanding. My view is they say 40k regardless of DGS type. I've even witnessed them insisting it's 40k on a DQ200. Youa re doing the right thing I think. I'd find a good local indy to do the DSG when the time comes.

Do you remember how I told you to check the part of the thermostat housing? This happens when it's damaged - the pin is supposed to push against the plastic in the centre, if part of it breaks, the pin just goes straight through and thermostat doesn't open. I had this exact issue on a similar VW engine. You also mentioned that radiator is cold, while both tubes are warm - is the radiator colder than the bottom tube?

The only problem with tax avoidance is that it shifts the extra tax burden onto others. If everyone paid the correct taxes then everyone and the country benefits.

So I rang to book this in and got told that the DSG wasn’t due until 80k miles. This wasn't mentioned in previous conversations with both main dealers so kept the booking while I did a bit of digging. While doing this I discovered that the VAQ was likely due as I had no previous record of it being done. Called back to add the VAQ and remove the DSG service as it does appear the DQ381 is due at 80k miles only to be told by a different service rep that it’s 40k miles. Bangs head against wall. I’m leaving the DSG for now as all the information I can find suggests 80k miles although I will get this done a lot earlier. Currently at 35k miles. @Ootohere thanks for the information you’ve posted across the forum on this. It’s been a big help.

Tax avoidance is not illegal unlike tax evasion and I think it was one English gentleman who said that organising ones affair to pay the least tax was something all should be doing within the framework of the law. There is no spirit of the law, only the written law.

And the colour selection option?

I'm getting Tesla's brand new Powerwall 3 One of first batch of customer shipment arriving later this month. Thanks to 0% VAT introduced in February. Price have come down quite a lot. 13.5 kWh of storage capacity, installed outdoor with Tesla's well established legendary thermal management and BMS. Headline 11 kW discharge power to power the whole house. Whole home emergency power supply, meaning everything in the home continue to work, including solar generation and Leaf V2H. With Leaf 18 kWh usable battery, there's 16 kW of discharge power and enough energy capacity live normally for 3 days in darkest winter and 5+ days in summer thanks to solar. If a Tesla Cybertruck rolls up, I can combine its 100 kWh to power my house for weeks. Similar tech hopefully will come to regular Tesla cars in the future. Re VED. The introduction of it is in April 2025. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/introduction-of-vehicle-excise-duty-for-zero-emission-cars-vans-and-motorcycles-from-2025/introduction-of-vehicle-excise-duty-for-zero-emission-cars-vans-and-motorcycles-from-2025 VED is valid for 1 year. Therefore, getting a valid VED in March 2025 for £0 would effectively mean one more year 0 VED. Everything is done by the book, only time will tell if this loophole gets patched.

We will see what the Labour Chancellor sticks with for maybe 2026 and onwards. Will it be as the Conservative and unionist Chancellors announced and have being introduced? There are going to be the near quarter of all First Registrations or passenger cars being BEV,s. Road taxing per mile and a basic tax of cars by weight, size and seating capacity might just help to have less of the BEV,s being big fat heavy cars and not that efficient at using energy / electricity. A limit on there possible max speed and acceleration might also help. Or just impose a very hight taxation on the ridiculous for sale and use on UK roads.

I updated mine from 1804 to 1941 last week. The TPI seems to suggest that you should be able to update as long as you have 1788 or newer. I used the MOI3_EU_SK_R9410L MU1941_SK20230615S file. I read in another thread that it had to get reuploaded due to the original (the one you are downloading) getting corrupted. I was going to try and update again to 1969, but the file on mibsolution seems to be corrupt (at least for me)!

Try throttle clean and readaptation usually gets it through the mot.

This is only possible with an additional box that reads the values. Search for Polar FIS

Mine too but this was covered earlier in the thread but I would also be concerned about the quality of the joint(s). Thread drift warning - 😆

Not dimishing your comments and desire to hold the dealer to account but you've probably spent more time, energy and electricity cost posting about this issue that you would have changing the filter yourself. Anyhow I'll leave it there and refrain from further comment.

Thank you Mr Plantman. May your beds be well watered 💦

There is no possibility that a twenty-year old lambda probe will be providing accurate data to the ECU, replace it, I did mine recently and it was only £45 for a NOS genuine item. Make sure you clear codes after fitting to clear the dynamic map and take it for a half hour thrash to rewrite the map before retest.

Might be worth checking that the fuel pressure regulator hasn't been replaced with a wrongly rated one during a fuel filter replacement. That can play havoc with the engine ECU's ability to get fuelling ratios right. If you let me know VIN or reg plate I can check what should be fitted, then you can compare with what's stamped on the rear end of the filter assy just in front of rear right (driver's side) wheel.

...check your windscreen. I upgraded from a 110 S to an L&K back in January. I wanted lower mileage and a few extras. I knew in advance about potential leaking roof issues but was up for a challenge and the model I bought was absolutely mint condition with only 35k on the clock. Anyway my arrogance taught me a lesson pretty quickly, not long after buying it, when parked flat or facing downhill water would build in the footwells, it would come under the plastic by the door openings and on to the carpet, classic symptom of a leaking roof (as the drainage runs down the A-pillars). When parking facing up hill the light cluster above the rear view mirror would fill with water, I would then find the cubby under the radio in front of the gear stick full of water after it rained. I then spent the last few months trying everything. It went to my local garage to be checked, they couldn't find the source of the leak. It went to Skoda, they said the pano roof frame was probably warped (which seems to be something they say a lot) and wanted £1200 to try to repair it which I refused as couldn't afford it. I dropped the roof lining and cleaned the drainage tubes, I followed the popular YouTube guide which involved treating the seals and running small amounts of Captain Tolleys down the frame. I hired a smoke machine to try and find where it was coming from with no luck. No matter what I did, if water got on the roof it ended up coming in. If I washed it or it rained I'd end up with wet carpets that took forever to dry. I was feeling pretty fed up and then by total chance I noticed something. I was cleaning the inside of the windscreen and noticed that when putting pressure near the top there was flex...surely it couldn't be? So I spent £180 for a company to come and try and remove and reseal the windscreen, they confirmed straight away that the bonding had gone. Unfortunately upon removal the screen cracked and I had to cough up £450 for a replacement. When it was off (I wish I'd taken photos) I could see right away that this might be the issue. You can actually see straight into the roof lining and into the A-pillars when the screen is removed. They told me that it's a common problem on pano roof Skoda's Audi's and VW's because the glass fitted from the factory has the black surface around the edge embedded in the middle layer of the glass. Whereas on other makes it's on the outside layer. This means that there is no key for the adhesive to grab onto, because there's more flex in the frame of a pano car, the windscreen slowly unseals itself. So the windscreen they put in (which still had the heating elements) was an aftermarket with the black surface on the outside which they keyed before bonding. I'm pleased to say that my L&K is now totally watertight. I can throw buckets of water on it and I've had it in a jet wash and it's totally dry. What had been happening is that water had been accumulating along the top seal of the windscreen, building up behind and then running straight down the A-pillars. Or if the car was parked facing up hill then it just immediately went into the roof lining and through the light cluster. Anyway, that's my story and it's worth checking if you're having this issue. A leaking windscreen has the exact same symptoms as a leaking roof, it comes in the exact same places...so definitely check it. Might save you a lot of grief.

@DieselMonte Are you a member of this group?

MY2017 Sportline 280 4x4

Thanks for the prompt answer. Yesterday evening I've figured it out using a copy of a service manual that the principle is the same as for VW cars (e.g., T-Rock), but the implementation is a bit different. At least on my Kamiq you don't have to replace female plug, as they do not break after pulling a bench seat up. Yes, on some (more expensiver models) it has to be done 😞 Enclosed is the page from the service manual.