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You get the full 150PS and 250NM in all modes with the foot flat to the floor. It's how the engine responds to the pedal inputs in between 0 to 100% that differs.

I guess is not hot news, except for a few hotheads? A few links ... https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/skoda/superb/364117/new-skoda-superb-sleeper-edition-packs-porsche-performance-sensible-estate https://www.drive.com.au/news/skoda-builds-the-ultimate-sleeper-superb/ https://www.carscoops.com/2024/08/skodas-one-off-superb-sleeper-edition-is-a-wolf-in-sheeps-clothing-with-470-hp/ https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/skoda-superb-sleeper-edition-brings-470bhp-and-chassis-overhaul https://www.motoringresearch.com/car-news/skoda-superb-estate-sleeper-edition/ I think in these pages there have been far more 'tuned' vehicles, but is really nice to see effort dedicated to an outgoing model! 🤩 Some sort of Stage II car? Opinions, what you think? A pal from italy mentioned why not slap the 2.5 and DSG from the RS3 instead .... I reply: "not for the czech poor brother of the family, of course" 😁

Just for you Lee, just for you: 😁

The volt drop from the modules active during the first 30 minutes after locking alone are sufficient to put the battery below 12.5v especially if you have done a short journey and the battery has not heated internally through charging. You want the battery to go into sleep mode yet still be able to open the doors with the electronic keys, that is precisely what it would do if it were functioning correctly, shut down all of the controllers aside from the alarm and central locking after no more than 20-30 minutes, it will not do so if any of them are still communicating so that is the root of your problem. As myself and others have pointed out multiple times replacing the battery would be as big a waste of money as would filling a car with fuel which has a hole in the bottom of the tank.

Yes the old "Halfords cheaper than ECP" while Halfords are sourcing these parts from ECP, something that I've become aware of - but ALWAYS check to make sure that is true and don't just assume it is, because it isn't always true. I was recently wanting to buy Lemforder lower swivels for a 2015 VW Polo, slightly cheaper from Halfords, BUT as stocks are low, Halfords are declaring them "not available" while ECP was still selling them. Annoyingly, the Halfords website was not really declaring them "not available" - just sending me round in a loop when I tried to select them, so please note that Halfords website has not been designed and maintained by a competent software house, just thicko's or lazy stupid people. I had to stop raging to myself and get around chatting to a "bot" before this was pointed out, no "sorry our website is terrible" just "item is showing as being not available", ah well! While on the topic of parts, if using Halfords or ECP, please be aware that ECP is playing some "funky" games/tricks at times - like when I checked for the Sachs part number for rear springs for a 2015 VW Polo, ordered them online from ECP, what was handed over was not the correct Sachs part number on the Sachs branded boxes, just no Sachs label instead a ECP label with what I know is a Lesjofors set of part numbers for a shorter spring! So needed to create a "returns" via the ECP website and hand them back in, ECP "contact us" help said just to aske the branch that I use to source the correct Sachs parts - and that did not turn out to be a option, a bit annoying using ECP, but I end up close to them every Wednesday while we look after a grandson. I keep saying that for a DIYer, using ECP can sometimes save you time and money, and can be convenient, but only if you really really do your homework.

Very true, but given the number of owners having problems with the 12V batteries dying on VAG PHEVs we have to assume that the early versions of the hardware & software do NOT have well written software! Why are you so reticent to tackle the root cause (modules not turning off) and so insistent on only tackling the symptom (a knackered 12V battery)? When fault finding the only sensible method is to identify, and then solve, the root cause. Repeatedly tacking symptoms is just expensive, frustrating and ultimately pointless.

Thought this screenshot might be helpful in explaining that it's not just the wheel rim size that needs to be taken into account when selecting the correct sized space saver spare wheel. Because the profile (height of the tyre if you will) is expressed as a percentage of the tyre width and the space saver is a LOT narrower than the normal road tyre, consequently the profile will need to be different to equate. Tyresize.com allows you to see this and compare how much of a difference there is to the road wheel circumference. The 2nd tyre size is that of the tyre/wheel combination which Skoda show on the inside of the fuel flap on my 2021 Octavia 1.0 TSI Technology with 16 inch road wheels. As you'll see it's 3.1% smaller in circumference than the normal 16 inch tyre/wheel but that's pretty close considering you're also limited to 50 mph. It's also important to ensure that the space saver is of sufficient size and offset to clear the brake calipers. Hope this helps, as I too found it all very confusing to begin with!

Uh, you are forcing me to admit my guilt, as the one who made the mess with the ABS it was yours truly, with my own two hands ... that is why I describe the action ☺️ Three times I had a go at it, until I got it right (this was the first time I ever did an ABS sensor). I have to say the car is a Range Rover P38, for which perhaps many rules of the automotive world do not apply ... in fact, most of 'em 🤪 Here is the way the ABS sensor comes in its kit, with the bush I was referring to: https://www.roverparts.com/brakes/sensors/STC3385/ Here is the way it looks when installing it from the workshop manual: Anyway, my intention was not to distract from the topic, just to add that sometimes there are things that look to be super straightforward, and instead are not, so the advice was not to rush but go methodically at it. I got the Audi without working A/C, and by exclusion and many attempts I am now down at a wiring/electrical issue. If I had paid attention to the first shop I asked I would have forked out many bills for a new compressor, pressure sensors, and such, but that would have not corrected the issue ... I will retreat now quietly in my hole and perish away 😁

2021 Skoda Octavia with us for •Blind spot assist •Rear cross traffic alert •Reversing camera with integrated washer •”All in” software package consisting of every single available software update All new & genuine parts used for a factory finish. The vehicle is completely error free. VW - AUDI - SEAT - CUPRA - SKODA - PORSCHE - BENTLEY - MAN - FORD - VOLVO - BMW - & MORE! •Dealer diagnostics •Coding •OE retrofits •Apple CarPlay •Android Auto •Component protection removal •Map updates •Software updates •Autowatch Ghost II •Autowatch trackers •Remapping •Servicing •ADAS calibrations •Towbars • & more! ☎️01262 362116 📧[email protected]

Thought it would be good to clarify a few things as I see so often on the internet people seemingly speaking with confidence and getting things completely wrong. Wax - originally came in paste, and then developed into spray applications. Natural product, molecules are relatively large so will sit "on" the paint. Supposedly gives a warmer look to the paint but its all subjective and never really noticed it myself. Depending on the product, it can be removed from the paint pretty quickly in awful weather/salty roads. Some products like Autoglym SRP contain fillers so will help fill swirlmarks make paint look corrected (but won't be). Polymer Sealant - development of spray wax to replace the wax with polymer/acrylic to give a hardier coating once its on. Will still sit "on" the paint. Ceramic Spray/Hybrid Ceramic Wax - the Sio2/Silicon Dioxide/Silica version of a spray protection. The Ceramic element is hardier still so will resist and the molecules are smaller than waxes and so there could be an element of filling but that would be minimal. There are a variety of applications, usually spray and wipe and sometimes included as a drying aid (although this is most likely combining the use of water to help spread). Carpro Hydro2 and Gyeon Wetcoat are versions which you mist onto the panel and then jetwash off - the forceful action bonds the product to the surface so very easy to use...but these are sensitive to direct sunlight so not advisable unless classic British weather. These tend to give a more silvery glow to this (I put this down to this basically being the same chemistry as glass); Quick Detailer - you cleaned the car yesterday, it rained today and doesn't look like it has just been cleaned; maybe a bit dusty, or a contaminant in the rain so it has some water spots on it. Enter the quick detailer. Spray and wipe application and most have some sort of gloss effect or light cleaning but there is no one standard minimal set of characteristics so its down to the product. Also often used as a drying aid but any gloss enhancement won't bond for long. **T-Cut Original Restorer - some pre-knowledge for the below. Strong petro-chemical/organic hydrocarbon (Naphthalene I think, subsequently corrected as also including Tetrosyl) that breaks the bonds of the clearcoat (or paint if no clearcoat paintwork) so that it can be massaged and flattened out before it flashes off the the paint/clearcoat reforms its bonds. Its not manually aggressive, it doesn't abrade the paint like a polishing compound would. It can soften edges of deeper scratches. It also acts as a solvent for some contaminants. Ceramic Coatings - these are very very different to anything previous and very specific. These are small concentrated bottles of product that require delicate application so if it doesn't look like that, it isn't a ceramic coating. The ceramic coating is dissolved in very strong petro-chemical solvent carriers like Naphtha, Toluene or Xylene. Again, these melt and break the bonds of the clearcoat/paint, and the ceramic bonds both with the paint molecules and with itself to form a very strong bond. As above, this process can work like T-Cut to flatten out the very lightest of marks on the paint but you're not repeatedly rubbing like you would with T-Cut, its a slow linear movement over the paint so any correction will be minimal if at all. The product then requires an amount of time to fully cure such as 24/48Hrs or up to a few days. Getting the product wet during this time can impact the overall longevity of it. Also, dirt or contaminants caught in the product can be baked-in to last for the length of the coating (some would advise application indoors). Also, the application process needs to ensure there are no "high spots" - product which is built-up and not smoothed out. It becomes obvious because it doesn't allow the light to pass through as clearly and shows itself as a bit of a cloudy patch. It can be solved if caught quickly but decent application avoids these in the first place. Coatings will provide hydrophobic properties and protect the paintwork for anything from 1-9 years. I take anything over 2 years with a pinch of salt and generally unprovable as it is so dependent on how it is maintained and cleaned. It is hardy but is is not bulletproof. You can also create swirlmarks in it, and birdbombs are capable of eating into it if left long enough. It is not immortal. It is also nothing associated with the pencil/MOHS hardness rating - that's essentially a marketing thing. Ceramic Coatings are there to take a bit more of a hit than paint (as paint is so soft and damageable) and assist in UV protection with plenty of gloss and a slick feel. I'm sure there's more but hopefully this helps to clarify. Oh, and when the dealer offers a Ceramic Coating, ask for the product name and look it up. If there is anything to do with a spray, it isn't a ceramic coating; its a ceramic spray.

We really are heading backwards. Cars allow social mobility, allow people to visit other parts of the country, experience other lifestyles and get out of the city and visit the countryside at their own convenience and with their belongings. This gradual smothering of personal car ownership is going to send the UK back to the middle ages when most people never went more than a day walk away from where they grew up their whole life. Of course, our elected leaders will be exempt from these restrictions...

Yes I use an adapter from Ottocast the U2 AIR Pro.

Hi all, I have just had the same issue (coolant leak, pump responsible, TPI: 2049883/6) just after my warranty expired. So, August '24, a fair while after the quotes/issues above. Marshalls in Newbury first took it in, charged the £100 diagnostic, then they thought they could charge me £1311.54 for: "Inspection Notes: Carried out investigation into coolant loss, carried out system pressure test, found leaking around coolant pump area, TPI 2049983/6 is relevant. Requires coolant pump seal and associated parts reference TPI." (Note: there is a typo in their TPI reference, it's actually the one identified earlier in this thread, I checked.) So, after the initial panic attack, I hunted on forums and such for the issue to get informed, including this thread (thank you so much!). I called them back to challenge the work, they itemised the breakdown and apologised for "putting the wrong labour cost by accident" and said £995 instead for the job: ~£225 for parts and the balance for labour (all incl. VAT). That's apparently 4.5hrs labour (I'm in the wrong industry!), down from the "accidental" 6hrs. I asked them why it would take so long and they had no answer, so I said fine I'll get some other quotes... Checking the nearest Skoda Approved repairers on the Skoda map, I got (all inclusive) quotes to replace the water pump: £573 from Banbury, £536 from Swindon, £589 from another Marshall garage in Reading, £556 from Winchester, and £629 from Southampton. The cheapest is a £459-£775 saving on the original quote (£995 or £1311, your choice). VERY importantly some of them shed a little bit of light on the price: 2.2hrs is the "Skoda National Catalogue" book time to complete the job. Southampton were a bit pricier on the parts, hence the range. Still awaiting some local indy Skoda specialist garage quotes to come back to me tomorrow, but the lowest so far is £472 from Oxford. I phoned Newbury back and gave them the information, and there was no manager in or anything, so the lovely but very new service assistant couldn't do or say anything to help, so I've collected my car, given them the £100, and will not be going back there again. Thought you should all be made aware of this. I was very disappointed in the garage I've previously enjoyed great service from. Currently debating how important the "approved Skoda" repair credentials are considering the attempted theft so far.

The point is not just to replace the coolant, but to wash debris out of the system at the same time. This usually involves 3 or 4 complete changes of water in the system, then let it dry pretty much completely (say till the hoses stop dripping), and finally refill using measured quantities of liquid.

Sorry for keep being off topic, but to close the matter above ... today I've solved the A/C issue on the Audi. Time ago, my associate (mechanic) replaced the HVAC controller as it had a failure, he wouldn't bother dissassembling it so he replaced it directly, fishing from the bin another one. As the car was a project in waiting, I had no way to check on that until few weeks ago, when I finally got the A/C radiator and piping replaced. The A/C panel he used is a '95, incompatible with the car which is a '97 (different compressor). Now I am looking for the right part ... he washed his hands on the issue. Once again, never underestimate the matter at hand, especially if more hands have passed before you ... 🤪

Welcome. If a Skoda Approved Used car i expect it to not just have a FSH or FMDSH but the history showing all servicing done as per Manufacturers Guidelines, Recommendations, Schedule or Spec. So even if on Flexible Servicing you will be getting a car that had the Pollen Filter Changed at 4 years, the Spark plugs at 4 years or 40,000 miles, the air filter checked if not changed yet, and not needing changed. Brake fluid changed at 3 years or at 4 / now. The Oil and filter changed at least twice if on Variable Servicing but ideally now before hand over. The Body work properly checked for damage or repairs and done to the standard to keep the Corrosion Warranty valid. There is some really shockingly bad Skoda Approved Used cars on offer for sale. There is supposed to be rigorous checks. Sadly often not. The Cam belt is no longer scheduled for a change @ 5 years / 50,000 miles & if a DSG not due an oil change at 40,000 miles as it is a DQ200 with no servicing.

@Wheelchair_Wonder Motabiliity are really trying to help out car manufacturers get the required number of EV,s on the road and Motabilities idea of Accessible Charging is a total joke, just as the Charger Companies, architects and installers. They think dropped kerbs seem to work for what is needed and totally ignore the need for low screens, touch pads etc and overhead spring assisted cables and the likes. Some places are better than others but trying to get a cable from it's holder to the cars charger port and plugged in be it a wheelchair user or many disabilities or even non disabled can be just too hard. Front Charge Points on cars can suit many, but even that is not necessarily true for every EV driver or passenger.

I look at my hifi now and it is the exact opposite. I have amps all over the shop as I don't have the space for a proper "tower of power" and the current shelving can't support the weight

'Wireless control units now' and selectors. For the disabled. As to Dealerships and doing Brake Assist, Steering assist adaptions etc that just need plugging in and changing, first you might get it done. *Then the car goes back, get a Service and MOT a month or 2 before going to BCA, then back on sale and neverback to a factory setting.* There are wonderful controls now for disabled and infirm drivers. New ones i had never seen in last months Motability Magazine / Lifestyle. Forget SKODA moving anything. A specialist converter will. The Motability Specialist (trained supposedly) in Dealerships have got more hopeless over the years and Skoda Dealerships ones likely as bad as any. Arnold Clark Dealerships can have hopeless ones with any brand.

My current Mk3 has the automatic electronic parking brake, but in order to start the car or put the car into gear, one has to push and hold the foot brake - which in my case is to push my hand controls to apply the brake. Currently I can also drive on hand controls and drop the vehicle down into Sports mode or can use the paddles to change gear and always flip the gear stick to turn it back to full auto mode. With the gear lever gone and moved to the steering column, one can't push on the brake AND put into gear using the same hand at the same time. As for other functions on the gear selector - well it looks like just forget it!!! Even if Skoda had moved this new gear selector to the left hand side of the steering wheel rather than having it on the right would have made a huge difference. It just seems that when the designers at Skoda came up with these ideas, they didn't even consider their disabled drivers at all and have produced a product that is far from, shall we say, "disabled friendly" 🤦‍♂️

Hi, I've had both speakers on the left side replaced, and the sound quality has improved a lot. They are much crisper than the original speakers. I think replacing all four speakers would have been ideal, but I didn’t want to risk breaking the window switch clips, which happened on the rear left and had to be glued back. The front left switch was unoppened all the way and remains unbroken.

I heard reported what she said as here in the headines. About the 20 mph limits. Not actually listened to it from the horses mouth.

Hi all, Hope this is the final update on this journey! Yesterday I received the car from the shop. The AC lost some refrigerator gas and I suspected that was the condenser. It was with a lot of dents from stones, and even wholes, 11 years of intense highways here in Portugal Hi ask the shop to replace the condenser and check the charge air cooler radiator. They checked and propose to change as well the charge air cooler radiator because it was with a lot of small stones as well and because the front of the car was already out, it was the best time to do it. Apparently, problem solved!!!! Now, on high loads, charge air cooler temperature sensor 1 (before charge air cooler) can reach temperatures like 110-120ºC but sensor 2 (after charge air cooler) remains at 44 to 46ºC. On low boost, it keeps between 40º to 42º and we can see on the chart (android app) the pump turning on and off with the temperature dropping and rising. Hope this helps other to solve their problems as well. This issue was never solved by any shop since 2019.... After many €€€€ spend on other sensors and valves and cleaning, it was this community and my searching and interest that solved the problem! Thanks to all!

I love that you have it in your (period correct) 'Tower of Power'

Do VAG really not have anyone in design that worked for Toyota ?

very interested in the reversing camera upgrade on a 22 Octavia estate and possibly tow bar prep wiring

It is not all PHEVs. I have had a 2021 PHEV for 6 months and practically all my driving is in e mode (I have used half a tank of petrol), the car is charged on the 10A charger and I have had no (touch wood) problems with the 12V battery. That time included 3 weeks when I was away on holiday and the charger was not plugged in. My software is version 1941.

If you go to the individual mode you will see a list of options you can choose from. On my car, these are: Steering: Sport/normal Drive: Sport/normal ACC: Sport/normal/Eco Light Assistance: Sport/normal A/C: Normal/Eco So I assume that sport mode the first 4 change, although the only one that I notice is that the steering gets heavier. I feel no change in throttle response, although it may change slightly. Interestingly I had a 73 reg T-Roc as a loan car a while ago and when set to Sport, this was retained after an engine stop, whereas mine defaults back to normal.

I could live with the looks of this.

No the volume is the same as before, I would typically get over 400 traffic reports within around 30 secs of starting the car. I'm getting the same volume now, but it's taking way longer to get the same amount of data. Plus it just seems a bit too suspicious that this happened after a map update, but I may just be putting 2 and 2 together and getting 5.

No noise now after replacing the drop links but noticed that the rear wishbone rubbers were starting to slightly split, as mentioned before on my old MK2 i replaced these with a set of Seat Cupra solid bushes which lasted many years until the car was written off hence we boufght this MK3 the old MK2 had the big bushes on the end of the wishbone these are a steel wishbone with the bush horisontal

A few days shrinked to a few hours as A5 shelf part could be successully reworked. Looking forward for the part fit feedback from the customer and this is all set. 3D printing is a 21st century revolution

https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ If the spare wheel is 16" then that might be as small as you can go. As put the rides comfort isn't just about the figures but also the design and build of the tyre and the materials used, two tyre of the same size (sizes are nominal btw) may give different levels of ride comfort. Just as a comparison, in theory for 15" tyre size comparison (without fashion the car could easily be on 14" wheels but that's not modern styling). 195/65 r15 would be same rolling circumference as 225/45 r17 and you would get your 1" (25%) difference in sidewall height. https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

Well I planned an assault on the thick black sticky mess, armed to the gunwales with my weapons of choice; cocktail sticks, cotton buds and dental floss. And I'm pleased to say with a positive outcome 👍 But my hand's really not designed for intricate work and I was quite nervous about the amount of dismantling required, particularly for getting the smaller belt past axle pins for pulleys and cogs 😓 Anyway, a picture (or two) paints a thousand words: Better: More gloop: Chuffing messy work: Flossing was nicely effective: New belt: And the fiddly little sucker: And with much relief: IMG_0444.mov All's well that ends well 😁 Gaz

A bomb in the glovebox? Jesus I was Joking. I joined this site nearly 20 years ago and went away for a while, but since being back I’ve noticed a distinct lack of lightheartedness and humour compared to the old days. Give me the old crowd, this lot don’t know how to have a laugh🙄😂😂😂

The thing is i take what is available when i arrive and am not there long, if TESLA came in needing a charge and no charger available i would move. Even though i have had years of barstewards hogging chargers or bays in a Tesla, locked in and not charging on other charger types, they could have just charged slower on an AC and that there are usually a few of. But many do the same in any type of car. Jaguar drivers i find to be the worst for this. The most desperate times i have had twice at chargers not working and no alternative were sorted by Tesla drivers stopping charging sooner than planned to let me get a charge. We should always remember a pay back...

The very systems that you believe this well written software should protect are ones (amongst others) that are depleting the battery. Horse, water, drink.

Finally got the reverse camera wired in the XTRONS one didn’t work for some reason, so brought one that has the number plate light in so a lot neater works perfectly straight away

I’ve had two 1.4tsi estates, a 2014 and a 2015. Absolutely awesome engine, both of mine had over 100,000 miles on when I sold them, still original turbos and clutch. Both were very reliable, I serviced them every 10,000 miles in my opinion these engines will easily do 200k miles. Whilst I don’t see the timing belt and water pumps as being any kind of issue, both of mine needed new water pumps around 80,000 miles, they both started dripping coolant so I just noticed the level dropping slightly. The water pump assembly cost about £250 from Skoda and I fitted them myself, they are driven off the gearbox end of the exhaust cam by their own little toothed belt. I would add that I now have a 1.5tsi act Superb and find that to be a great engine too. All the best in your search.

Sorry, I will write in English

in Australia at least, owners suffering from this issue have been able to claim it under warranty. They’ve upgraded the seat foam to prevent it happening. in Australia, you can get the Leon and Formentor in V, VZ, VZe, and VZx. The V, VZ, and VZx all use versions of the EA888. The V uses the down rated EA888 that was used in the Octavia Limited edition. Whereas the VZ uses the same tune as the Octavia RS and Golf GTI. The VZx uses the same tune as the Golf R but misses out on AWD. the VZ was dropped from the Formentor range. if I were in the position to wait I would. The updated media system is worth it alone. if you compare the current Leon VZ to the Octavia RS with Premium Pack. Then aside from the size difference, you give up the 360 Camera, passenger side electric seat, power tailgate. HUD, and Matrix LED headlights with the Leon. Plus the Octavia has the 13 speaker Canton system. Whereas the Beats system is only 9 speakers - the facelift Leon gets a 13 speaker Sennheiser system. I’m considering the trading out other car - a Focus wagon in on a Leon VZ. I love my Octavia and it was such a big upgrade over the Kamiq Monte Carlo it replaced.

Yellow "Check Oil Level" is a notification to top up the oil as soon as possible. Red "Low Oil Pressure" is a warning not to be ignored, stop as soon as safe and turn the engine off.

Just to clarify…. The warning message I got states CHECK OIL LEVEL and is a notification on the dash console with an AMBER triangle containing an exclamation mark. It also appears in the CAR STATUS. I do not have a RED OIL PRESSURE warning light coming on. I agree with JR’s comment above. Im an engineer but not a motor engineer. So while I’m not clued up on cars and engines I find it difficult to believe that the “check oil level” notification I get on my dash is only triggered/displayed once the engines oil pressure is dangerously low. That seems crazy. Surely it must be sensing a loss of oil and therefore warning the driver well before the oil level is low enough to cause serious oil pressure conditions. Thats my take on it. Nonetheless I will continue to check my oil level after 500 miles as suggested by Ootohere as that seems like sensible advice. cheers 😁

Lol, the Golf was another car bought off a friend. A VR6 which served as a daily driver for a while. I'm torn between using it as a running gear donor for a Mk1 or 3 Cabrio or tickling it with the welder. Its got a sweet engine, still starts on the button. Having gone through a Corrado VR6 over the last couple of years and getting on back on the road another project beckons. PS I replaced the Fabia with another Bonelorry hand me down, his Golf GTI Edition 35.

Dont go out with that bird again ,muck cow 😂

I would make sure they are checking the wiring and signals from the ECU before replacing. A lot of the time maf codes can be plausibility and be down to something else like air leaks, egr valves and O2 sensors etc.

I use the boot stays all the time. I have a boot tidy thing from Lidl and it’s crammed-full of car related stuff; one of those stays stops it from moving around the boot space.

A new favourite as of today. It's a long listen, but apart from the two product placements within it, is all very worthwhile: (it's about ultra-processed foods)

Also I wrote this https://open.substack.com/pub/inoneear/p/do-you-love-your-car?

diesel engines are ok for low mileage short distance users, but you need to get used to the routine required and stick to it. i've a diesel caddy van 2 years old, 10.000 miles on the clock, so only doing 5,000 miles a year and all town driving ie short journeys . regens are every 180 miles or so, so after a regen, i set the trip to 0, i now know roughly when the next regen will be due. i use the vag dpf app on my phone, so i can watch the regen taking place before and after. The thing is with regens, you cant force it to happen, it wont happen until the dpf is 99 - 100& full, a lot of people think you can just take the car for a run every now and then and all will be fine, but it does'nt work like that, all you would be doing is wasting time and money by going for a run when it's not ready to regen. it can be a pain in the @rse at times, but you do get used to it. in my 2 years of driving the van , i've never had a warning light come on