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To save me reading back through all the postings, have you ever actually measured the coolant temperature after driving several miles with either an old school mercury bulb thermometer or an infra-red one? All I have read is assumptions that it must be overcooling because of what the dashboard temperature gauge or diagnostic tool says it is not what the actual temperature is.

This above is one of the most bothering things on modern cars ... most components are as crappy as they can happily get away with, but some reason it seems to be a consensus among the industry that certain connectors must be made with a overengineed approach that makes easy work an impossibile task! Either they seem glued in place, or the locking tab is positioned OPPOSITE of the side you are reaching (this one happens to be one my favs), or the locking tab is unclear why in some is "push inwards then pull" in another ones is "pull outwards and pull out" ... may the designers be cursed forever! My absolute preferred one, the locking in between the two connectors end being SO strong that the tab that holds the assy in place slips out or breaks, therefore the entire combo gets to hang loose somewhere ... if you are VERY lucky they fall more into some innard where extra sweating and a balanced alternating lithany and cursing seems the only way to get around .... I used to think whoever designed these things was an imbecil. Now I just think is someone who models in a CAD with minimal training and motivation, zero engineering motivation (for various reasons, be cost cutting, ecology, etc.), and especially who has never turned a scredriver in his/hers/its (now we got 'X' genders also) miserable life, considers getting hands dirty an abominable relic of the past, but especially, thinks that just because is a "newer" approach, is always "better". I wish them a failure in whatever crap they drive in the middle of a stormy rainy cold night, where they can learn the true extent of their actions .... 😝

I looked at the Q3 before buying my Karoq, and was amazed to find the Karoq was much better equipped! The Audi dealer was insisting that Audi couldn't provide heated windscreens because they were patented by Ford, and had no answer when I pointed out that VW and Skoda provided them!

Started the car today after 3.5 months. Original battery made in Jan 2013. Really unexpected, hence my vocal "oh no" VID20250224141307 (1) (1) (1) (1) (1).mp4

That looks absolutely par for the course on a 12 year old Yeti, I doubt that you will find a better one. The jacking point is not rotten the underseal has just been damaged in use, probably by a trolley jack and surface rust appeared. The door bottoms suffer from zinc inclusion corrosion spots, mine has them but they have not got any worse over the last 5 years.

I would just keep it really simple if he keeps deflecting you to a warranty. Ask him:- 1) What service history and receipts come with the car ? 2) If there's no record of a cambelt or haldex oil and filter change, offer £750 off whatever price he has indicated, for you to have the work done yourself. Warranties are mostly 'not very good' and if the car has not been serviced as it should, will chuck out your claim On the plus side, the MOT track record is good, so if you buy it, you might find that the previous owner has a load of service information ? How many owners ...

Well did my own plugs today and, having read up and learned since Rob's, the pull-and-thumb-push seems to work perfectly. Fingers behind the connector to pull on it gently, both thumbs on the clip to push up and you hear the little click; do all 4 and then the whole rail slides up. Wish I'd found those sorts of videos last week 🫣 Divine penance did rain on me, when I'd not spotted Cyl2 hadn't clicked in place so it was running on 3. Laptop out for VCDS, engine cover off to check and thankfully found the problem quickly. Cleared DTCs and was running smoothly again in the end. So much swearing though.

All done and fitted! Along with some headlight eyebrows and mudguards (white cars are a nightmare!!!) Many thanks to OP - JohnnyType2 for the guide and mudguard help too! Links to the parts: Grille - https://www.undergroundparts.co.uk/collections/all-skoda-parts/products/skoda-octavia-2013-2017-honeycomb-mesh-gloss-black-sport-front-radiator-grille?variant=32875148542032 Mesh - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C8H9GJHC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Headlight eyebrows - https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/octavia-iii/octavia-iii-abs-plastic-eyebrows-sportive-painted-in-original-skoda-metallic-paint Mudguards - https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007505331910.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.17.37cfKBppKBppT6&algo_pvid=504be607-89a4-42ef-98cf-020034d4fad0&algo_exp_id=504be607-89a4-42ef-98cf-020034d4fad0-8&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"12"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!GBP!8.69!7.52!!!76.57!66.27!%402103856417386796037755909e715c!12000041057681208!sea!UK!175521436!X&curPageLogUid=XKAQP3cmrjfY&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita

Briskoda doesn’t condone clones Therefore this will be locked.

If you have been suffering limp mode when engine is under load, and if the car seems not quite as powerful this could help/solve the problem ok here goes. Engine must have cooled before trying this as mr muscle is flammable and its easy to get scalded by a hot turbo mr muscle and a good 2 metres of silicone hose small enough to fit over end of spray part of tin (once you have removed the nozzle and just have the plastic outlet sticking straight up) I used an elbow to make life easier as i can just press it, but most can squeeze it with needle nose pliers and push it in to squirt the product down the tube Now this is the egr valve, will be in a similar but not the same place on yours but principly it will match. Underneath on the bottom of this item there is a metal pipe coming down, held on by 2 alan bolts - undo these. On the next pic i have shoved the camera down the back of the engine and have the other end of that pipe to the egr - here it is bolted to the mannifould (circled yellow) undo these nuts, they are tricky and quite stiff but will move imagining these are undone you can remove the pipe completely. Now the yellow line signifies where the pipe needs to go if you could see through the turbo- make sure it goes down and not into a cylinder - its hard to get wrong but show care. once silicone pipe is passed down into turbo until it cant go no further attach the mr muscle (well shaken) and scoosh it in until product comes up out of the hole (where the yellow circle is again) it doesnt take too much to do this. Once it appears whip out the silicone hose. Circled red is the actuater linkage and this is connected to what causes the problems, pump it up and down (itll be hard on the thumb but persevere) it will free off and get really smooth - do this regularly over a 2hr period. REATTACH EGR PIPE then go for a run gently at first than when warm you must go to rev limit in second is best - she will dump all the guff and smoke and hopefully be sorted. Caution the engine must be at least sitting cool for a couple hours as mr muscle is flamable, and you can get badly burned by turbo/mannifould

O dear. That’s where I’ve mounted the dash cam. That’s probably why it’s giving me the message.

Compared to the prices I have seen on here and elsewhere recently I would say that the car is a steal at that price for a low mileage 4x4 with good service history and the protection that you (supposedly) get when buying from a dealer. I'm not surprised the dealer would not move on the price, I reckon it will sell quickly.

Glad you looked at it - each one you see makes It dead easy to spot a really good one! Re rust and the Fabia comment. I (bought and) sold my elderly mum's mk2 07 and also her mk2.5 2014 last year. Both were totally rust free, despite living on the drive at the seaside in all weathers. For the Yetis that we've owned privately rather than as company lease cars, two of our mk1s and one mk2 have had minor rust bubbling on the lower doors which we have had treated and repainted, as it creeps under the paint. Our latest 2017 hasn't got any (yet!?) You should not see any more rust than this on decent ones, and as it's treatable, you can negotiate with most sellers if you point it out to them (approx £250 a door). The one you've just looked at had more than that. Good call leaving if he wouldn't budget on the price. Keep looking. There are still some decent private ones around at sensible money (unlike some of the dealers) and MotorEasy have fair warranties that you can buy yourself for some peace of mind.

Hello, I had the same problem with water condensation in both rear lights, so Škoda replaced it as a warranty repair

About what you'd expect for a 12 year old UK car. Personally I'd want a car of that age up on a ramp for a close inspection for rust. Shame as the car looks pretty decent otherwise. So glad I don't have to even think about rust here in Spain, not a spot anywhere on my 2011 and in UK it could probably pass for a 2 or 3 year old! Good luck with the search

Yes, on all cars and light good vehicles type approved after 2011.

I can't over emphasise the importance of the pump learn procedure. Even if it is just the pump that is faulty, replacing it and not relearning the pump values might mean the right voltage isn't sent to the pump andnit still doesn't work, which could lead to in incorrect assumption that other hardware is at fault. Mine was relearned successfully with some none VAG diagnostic software at an independant garage. A decent independant shouldn't charge you too much to plug in and carry it out, it takes a few minutes. OBDeleven has the pump learn function as I've seen it on mine, I can't vouch for whether it does tho job prolerly though as I've had no need for it since fixing mine. Best of luck!

Yeah I fell like a complete idiot. I was 100% sure that I am the primary user as I followed the steps, had to have both keys with me and the whole deal and never changed anything. And I technically am the primary user. However, at some point, someone (probably while the car was in the service) must have change it and selected the guest user. It was around the time of a Software update that I noticed the initial "Welcome" screen never really going away on it's own unless I click "OK". After the response from Aldfort, I went into the "Change User" screen, with the confidence of "pfffft.... I am the primary user and I haven't touched it since I bought the car". I was humbled really quickly when I saw that the "Guest" user was selected. Thinking of it now, I shook of the change after the update as "skoda screwed up" but I also remember that the car was in the service around the same time. And I think I am not the only one who had settings changed after a visit to the dealer... Yeah now the screen stays for a few seconds and then jumps Carplay which is exactly what I wished for.

That Amazon item I linked above really does go to zero current when the red switch is off. 13mA when it's on and doing nothing other than displaying the voltage though. More current still as each pushbutton switch for the outlets is enabled (blue LED on each), even with nothing connected to them. I wouldn't leave it with voltage display left on, unless I was actively monitoring the voltage in the short term.

He / She needs to reduce their worry because the Warranty they are selling you requires them to sell a Fit for Purpose vehicle and it will cost them if the Haldex is faulty. If there is not a record of it being Serviced in the last couple of years / 20,000 miles then it should be done. The Service Schedule is 3 years / 30,000 miles or sooner. ? Can they Service the Haldex, do they work on VW Group cars with it, or where they get work done?

So I would think it's more a motor than an actuator so. Check the cabin filter for debris.

Every Recycling plant fire is not going to be related to EV batteries, and what does anyone suggest, No more Lithium Batteries?

I can't speak for the dealer. I would look carefully for rust bubbles on the bottom corners of the doors, and evidence of when the cambelt was changed. The MOT history looks good. https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/results?registration=Hn63byg&checkRecalls=true

Worked it out. It changed background colours from auto to manual. I usually use the 'Individual' driving mode so I set that to blue whilst in manual (background colours )then set it to auto. Now each mode is a different colour 👍

Citigo is the only Skoda model that has it ignition switched, as far as I am aware; all the others have it permanently live. I don't think there's an easy way to make it ignition switched on a mk3 Fabia, but hopefully some mk3 owners reading this will be able to help. I bought a switched multi-way adaptor recently that may do the job, but would require him to remember to switch it off. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CSS7DVJF Haven't actually checked that current drawn goes to zero when the red rocker switch is off, I should do so. Thought I might be able to get into it and look at the wiring, but it's well sealed.

I would have thought to have this done would cost more than replacement bulbs when they (if indeed they do in the life of the car) blow.

Hello, Thanks for posting. Nice to see a fellow Belgradian! About the bugs - this is something I'm not really sure about, maybe check if there are any openings where the bug may have come through. For the cold weather and parking sensor, I have the same issue, only when driving in the snow, or heavy rain. The sensors seem to freeze, but then after 3-5 km's driving, it resets and back to normal. I'm guessing cars these days are not built for heavy snow or cold weather. I try to keep my Octavia parked inside to avoid any minus 0 weather because of situations such as these. Hope this helps!

The technology argument is the same for all cars that have been in manufacture for even a few short years. The battery condition argument is valid though. We don't really know yet how the batteries will survive long term. Unless you have a particularly bad cell in there somewhere, there's no reason why you can't just keep using it. You may have reduced range but the actual ability to charge and get some power from it will remain for many years. I certainly don't have a plan to bin it off. I also expect some other aspect of the car to fail before the battery or electric system.

I got my L&K 265 4x4 on 19" Veritate in Cobalt Blue last week. Fantastic car. I upgraded from a S3 220 FWD L&K which was an equally fab car that I bought in 2017. You won't be disappointed.

ah ah ....creaks and clunks are sign not only of a problem with the age of the frame, but its mileage as well 🤪 I think any soft wrapping will make a mess there ...in any case I do not have an electronic, only the lever to pull down the ball, or release its lock. So a hand always get dirty might as well take an extra moment and lose the cover ...

Yes, I had a quick look at pictures of the 1.2TSI (CBZA or CBZB code?) on ebay, and there looks to be a bunch of turbo/exhaust stuff in the way of getting to the back of the alternator. It may well have to come out I should think, to access the regulator/brushpack. Have you got a multimeter with which you could measure some voltages before/after starting engine?

As far as I understand, switching to sports mode only changes the dynamics of the shock absorbers, the car does not lower itself. The Monte Carlo sports chassis control suspension is lowered 10 mm on the Kamiq and 15 mm on the Scala.

The last letter is usually a parts revision letter - e.g. 06K145725L is the earliest revision, followed by 06K145725R and then 06K145725T

I suppose it could but I use very little copper slip, Just enough to coat threads. It makes removal a lot easier and I generally find once its applied I don't have to do it again. Never had any problems and always use a decent torque wrench. I have never seen a tyre service use a torque wrench. They usually use an air gun followed by a breaker bar. Have had a few wheel bolts that have seized over time and been an absolute nightmare to get off. Worst was on an old ford Fiesta which snapped at the side of the road. Had to drive it home with three bolts. Alasdair

I think if you disabled that function you would very rapidly burn out the clutches. The clutch needs to disengage otherwise it will be slipping and just cook very quickly. How else could the wheels stop turning with the engine running and transmission in gear? Either clutch slips or it is disengaged. I am pretty sure the DQ250 was the same, just it probably engaged a bit earlier as it could slip more without damage (because it was lubricated and cooled by the fluid - wet clutch).

Nobody is going to dissuade you from changing your timing or water pump. Typically (and the current thinking) - is that if it hasn't been done within 7 years and/or 120,000 miles, then it is probably due for a change. I suspect that you would be within that range - based on age. Have a look at the timing belt and see if there is any micro-cracking. The water pumps from 2013-2017 were susceptible to failure, so a new water pump would not go amiss. re: engine - built proof as long as the oil/filters are changed every 10k miles.

I was informed by SkodaParts on Friday that my missing item should arrive in stock next week so fingers crossed by the weekend I can give an update on the new arm

Fifth month stats from the car Jan-Feb 368mile @ 2.9m/kwh = 129.89 kw. [email protected] + 7kw for £5.18 = £35.58 My Mondeo would have averaged 50 mpg for 135m and 35 mpg for 233m @£1.417 litre = £17.21 + £42.45 = £59.66 Long term guessometer now reset. Stat from the GOM the car has been on for 25.08 hours and averaged 15mph.

How quickly did it drop? 1 second, 1 min, and did the heater get any cooler? Eg did the engine actually get cooler. Can you unplug the charge air coolant pump and see if it changes the results. I would think it could potentially cause excessive cooling...but not sure how much the effect on the engine temp would be as the thermostat should control the engine temp still.

I would not think that to be likely.

The Skoda accessory catalogue lists silver TRINITY alloy rims with the same 8Z8 colour code for both the Kodiaq MK1 and Karoq...as shown in the two links below. The Skoda parts catalogue describes colour code 8Z8 as Diamond Silver. As both alloy rims have the same 8Z8 colour code, they will both be the same colour. 7Jx18 ET43 5/112 57.1 TRINITY alloy rim 565071498D 8Z8 (from Kodiaq MK1) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-trinity-18-kodiaq/p/565071498D+8Z8 7Jx18 ET45 5/112 57.1 TRINITY alloy rim 57A071498 8Z8 (from Karoq) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-trinity-18-karoq/p/57A071498++8Z8

I think we have finally cracked it!! I ordered one of these last week from Burteq in Chechia. https://burteq.com/products/octavia-4-memory-module?variant=48608674808132https://burteq.com/products/octavia-4-memory-module?variant=48608674808132 I installed it today and followed the instructions like disconnect the battery first and expect loads of scary faults on reconnection! I have only driven it a couple of times but it seems to be working!! It sets the memory for stop/start and lane assist when they are disabled via the touchscreen. I haven't tried the driving mode or forward assist as they don't bother me but the stop/start was massively frustrating. It took about 15 minutes to install on my 2023 octavia VRS diesel estate, quite fiddly due to the position of the module but really straightforward after watching the video. Here is to just getting in a car and driving it again without having to reprogram it before every journey!!

Finally got around to replacing my heater matrix today! Found an exact video on YouTube that matched my car, and wow, it was a lifesaver. My original heater matrix was partially blocked, and now, with the new one swapped in, it’s blowing hot air like a champ! 🥶➡🔥 Had to remove the blower motor—just three Torx screws, so no big deal. But... I unnecessarily bent a clip too much and snapped it. 😩 Oh well, it’s still solid with the screws, so I’m not stressing over it. The only thing bugging me now is the heater matrix connections. The top one clips in (see pic), and the bottom one is a push-in with a ring clamp. Never seen this clip before! When pushing the bottom one in, I got that satisfying click, but the top one? Nothing. Then I realised the clip holds both parts tightly together. Hope I got it right! 🤞 Let’s see how it goes! Uploaded some pics—no video, though.

All cars seem to be getting hellish expensive in my experience... There's no way I'd buy new these days and even second hand prices seem daft at times for the mileages quoted.

You probably have the Climatronic system which uses a transistorised controller instead of the resistor pack.

Looks like this with nothing behind me. Thanks. AG Falco

It may not have been imported, foreign visitors can and do bring their vehicles with them to do rallyes, attend car shows etc, driving on the roads, it said that it was registered and insured in another country. Is there a temporary import procedure like a carnet for this? There are many UK vehicles that cannot be registered in my country due to lack of homologation, mainly kit-cars or modified vehicles, they can be driven legally by the owner if they are not French resident, time limits apply for having to declare residency which then makes driving the vehicle illegal. The car was impounded as part of a swoop on UK nationals driving foreign registered vehicles, now I no longer have a UK address I fall into that category, I can drive over there on visits for funerals etc (my only reason to return) but were I to move back permanently I would have to stop driving the car immediately pending re-registration, probably not even allowed to drive back from the ferry. You will probably know chapter and verse about this. If the driver is the owner of the car then tough justice! He will pay a high price for being a flash show-off, if it's owned by someone abroad then its going to be very complicated and expensive for them to get it back.

I hope you find your answer but as you describe garages and dealers never split the two apart, i'm guessing there is probably a good reason for this and I think you probably know the reason. I've also never come across a DIYer on any sort of forum that has done this either so it will be interesting to see more of the goings on inside a Haldex and teh rear diff. I vote you take one for the team and split the two for our interest 😁

Have you actually seen with your own eyes this alleged swarf in the Haldex oil or on the filter guaze? Even if it does exist I have zero confidence in a garage that concludes it is evidence of the clutch pack having failed, it would take millions of miles of wear (the clutch pack only wears when partially engaged and the vehicle making a turn) and the filter would have been clogged stopping the system from working literally hundreds of times before there could be any metal to metal contact. Any swarf will almost certainly be from failure of the pump and the debris will have been contained witin the filter. I would change the pump alone flushing through the oil reservoir before fitting then inspect the filter after 1000 miles. The garage should have given this as a diagnosis if there is in fact metal swarf but then it would not have brought them a £6K payday.

Normal DOT4 or DOT5.1 will be just fine. The "ESP" fluid to be compatible with ABS etc is just a slightly thinner than normal brake fluid, this is to allow the ESP and ABS to operate fully in extremely cold temperatures, so unless you live somehwere really cold it is not an issue and normal DOT4 or DOT5.1 is just fine. Cheers, Guy.