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I agree but the part regarding injectors, fuel lines etc is from fueling a diesel engine with petrol where the high pressure fuel pump lunches itself and sends swarf around the system, the OP need not worry about this as diesel has lubricity that petrol lacks. Indeed, perhaps the OP can expand on how he overcame that protection.

Strongly suggest contacting a mobile misfuelling specialist first, almost certain to cost less than a Stealer.

I thought a diesel pump nozzle was too large to fit a petrol filler ?

So the final chapter is that the Roomster has gone off with Pete, who seems to be a throughly decent chap in real life as on the forum. Pete I hope the car got you home in one piece and I wish you many happy miles in the old dear. Now I just have to deal with the sellers remorse and accept that I will miss the old thing... All the best everyone.

Update: Checked our breakdown cover - misfuel is covered £250 - only to drain and fill leaded petrol. If the car still does not start then they will have to take it to our chosen garage for repairs which is not covered.. Fingers crossed that they drain and all's well!

Hello, welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear of your mishap. No more damage will occur so long as the engine is not run or attempt made to start. How much diesel was added - was it a full tank? Possibly your best (and cheapest) option is to find a mobile misfuelling specialist to drain your tank and flush the fuel system. Do you have home breakdown cover on your insurance? Misfuelling cover may be included in this. Diesel in a petrol vehicle is likely to have caused no lasting problem once the system is cleared.

Today I've mostly been putting oil in my Superb's engine. Had a "Check Oil Level" warning yesterday afternoon (yes, been a bit lax in checking the fluids of late). Really not used to car engines that use a lot of oil between services (my Fabia doesn't, the Rapid I had didn't, and neither did the MG ZS SUV). No oil leak eitehr. Anyway, a litre of VW Spec 0w-20 later and its back up to level and seems to be happy. Lesson - check fluids regularly - especially on the 1.5 TSI :)

I have had a Fiat Panda from new since 2009. It is at 138000 miles. It has had every service due from new. Only the first three were with the main Fiat dealer though. The Panda has never not started, never not finished a journey and never broken down. Did fail one MOT but it then passed within 2 hours. When were they last done. They will be due within the next 5 years? Spark plugs due at 4, 8 & 12 years old? Air filter due at 6 & 12 years old? If you look after cars they will look after you. Thanks. AG Falco.

I have same problem with my skoda. After I change the 645 relays everything look fine. Thank you for the advise.

Just FYI normally the nozzles are colour-coded to the fuel - black for diesel, green for petrol and sometimes red for high-octane petrol.

Thank you all so very much. We have a breakdown cover but only to take it to the garage of our choice. I think most breakdown cover don't cover for fuel error. Yes, you are right, the nozzle is different from the petrol nozzle but because my car was further from the pump, I had to stretch the cable and assumed that it is the distance that is causing the nozzle problem which just about entered the tank but not fully. LESSON LEARNT THE HARD WAY!. There was already a little petrol in the tank (may be to drive about 10ish miles) the rest of the tank I fully filled with disel. Drove about 6.5 miles, just parked into the drive way and it obviously died. I will wait until tomorrow, first call the skoda dealers to find out if they can take the car immediately so that we can request the breakdown service to take us to whichever dealer agrees for us to take the car to their forecourt. Any other advice will be greatly appreicated. THANKS AGAIN so much.

I feel your pain. Accidentally had petrol put in a diesel car a while back. Here is the advice from the AA https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cover/advice/wrong-fuel-advice

Assuming that this warning light query refers to the coolant level, not overtemperature, as temperature gauge is reported as staying 'at 90' - I'd suggest this intermittent fault points towards faulty coolant level sensor probes in the expansion tank. First check sensor wiring connection, then try gently scraping the probes inside the EV tank with a screwdriver. This fault has been reported previously by others. Suggest simple and cheap replacement of EV tank will probably fix, can even be DIY.

A 2015 car can be either MIB1 or MIB2 (it changed in May 2015 production), a MIB1 doesn't support CarPlay or Android Auto.

This sort of fault sounds like a loose connection on the battery or starter motor/solenoid to me.

I would recommend with replacing the thermostat first

My wiper blade final arrived this afternoon. All went fine & fitted with a small suprise. The new wiper arm actually has a 1-2cm large sweep than the original part, fitting is simple & the new arm is fully compatible with the Bosch A403H blade. Total price for the new arm & bosch blade was €33 (24 + 8) not including the shipping so after 2 changes it is "cost neutral" to buying the new blade from Skoda directly. Here are some photos of the new & old wiper arm together. Top is the original arm from the car & bottom is the Skoda replacement. The original blade from the car has a higher quality finish (mottled effect instead of gloss plastic) but it doesnt really justify changing the design. One thing I noticed on the table was the placement of the "clipping" hole means that with the new arm the blade sticks out ~2cm more than the original. You can see this on the car once its fitted below..... I didnt clean the glass before hand as I thought it would help me make sure it was aligned but actually it shows clearly the difference in the sweep of the blade. Wash day is tomorrow I promise 😆

Hey! Has anyone here attempted to fit eyebrows on their MK3 Fabia? Considering this to give the car a lil bit of sporty vibe!

Yes. Lock car with key-fob and within 2 seconds touch sensor on outside of door handle. This turns off Kessy (keyless entry) and you need to press the button on the key-fob to open door. Mine is set to only open drivers door unless two presses. However this does not save you from car-jackers with an a booster aerial so after locking car always put key-fob in an RFID pouch. Mine key-fob lives in one except when I am driving.

I looked at the google map link you attached. Could it be the large "Old Rufford Rd" signs in each carriageway? I'll get me coat.... :-)

crashed it

Had some time to get the summer wheels out and give them a clean while they’re off the car. The barrels and back of the spokes were awful and still not great. Carpro Retyre for the tyre walls, Koch-Chemie Greenstar (an APC) 1:10 for general cleaning, then thoroughly rinsed and followed up with Carpro Tri-X (Iron Fallout remover and Tar remover combined). I hoped the Tri-X would shift more. Not sure it’s not compromised but even tried Carpro Spotless (waterspot remover) on a couple of stains but no go. Can confirm the wheels are also in a shocking state and will be reconditioned before going back on the car!

All I have ever seen, is that the fob will go to sleep, if not moving after a few minutes. Not much use, if wandering around, with key fob in pocket, but should be safe at home, in drawer or whatever. The Subaru system is much better, as fitted to my much missed XV.

It's 6hrs for Intelligent Octopus Go. We use it with an Ohme charger without it communicating with the car at all.

I like the system here although the dealers probably hate it because it puts people off changing their vehicles every few years. We pay the cost of the carte grise when we register the vehicle in our name, nothing to pay thereafter all the time that you own the vehicle, there are also malus taxes on first registration which are really prohibitive for sports and luxury vehicles especially SUV's because now they are adding another first registration tax on weight. It starts at 113g/km CO2 with a malus of €50 rising to €70000 for a CO2 rating of 192 and above, no that isn't a typo!!!! Add to that the malus masse which charges you €10 for every kg above 1500kg to 1699kg then increases by €5 for each extra 100kg finishing at €30/kg above 2000kg. Whilst this screws buyers of new Range Rovers etc most of whom wear it as a badge of pride and within 30 seconds of meeting them they will tell you how much their car cost to register it also screws buyers of EV's and Hybrids. Back in the real world I have only ever paid between €150 and €300 for first registration of an imported RHD vehicle (it halves when they are 4 years old and as I keep them for a decade or longer it worked out at €12 per year for my Octavia, the Yeti will be €15 - €20 per year dependant on how long I live and if I can keep it on the road. Taking insurance, registration taxes and Contrôle Technique testing (every 2 years not 1 year) together my fixed motoring costs before I drive anywhere are about €240 per year, adding depreciation assuming I live another 20 years it rises to €400. I am all for taxing the hell out of people buying new expensive/powerful/heavy vehicles but dont like the way the UK penalises those who drive older vehicles with the frequent changes in the road fund license system not to mention those who have to buy newer vehicles because where they live becomes a low emissions zone. The basic registration cost system in my country has not changed for second hand vehicles, yes the rates go up a little each year, yes the higher CO2 rating taxes go up a lot more (a good thing I believe) but the cost for Monsieur Tout le Monde with a modest second hand vehicle has always remained moderate.

There but for the grace of god go I! You are not the only one who has succeeded with great determination to pump diesel into a filler neck sized for the petrol nozzle!

@Choclab our dealer checked for software updates on my karoq last week, but nothing came up. Bought it last October perhaps it doesn’t fall into the group that needs the update. Interestingly, as of last week I cannot touch to unlock the car so now have to unlock it with the key fob, the same goes for the boot, but I can touch to lock - very frustrating. I’m hoping to get it booked in for a check - fingers crossed it’s just a recoding matter.

For decades the Gas Pipelines, Aero Fuel hubs and pipelines, substations and national grid have been at risk. The Forties Pipeline coming ashore on the North East Coast and crossing Scotland to Grangemouth has been as are pumping stations and where LPG / Gas is removed are. Many points at the side of public roads and marked. One such under 2 miles from me. Sometimes the Security is at higher levels like when the UK was involved in attacking Libya. Sewage / water treatment plants attacked will have a huge affect on the population in that area, or wider areas.

1 of 3 Substation was on fire. Not a very large Substation as can be seen with the flyovers on the telly. As it is Data Centres that use huge amount of electricity were not down, and yes a different area, but then it is The National Grid. Heathrow best be one of the first places to get a Small Nuclear Reactor when the UK Government stops talking about them and gets on being sure where they are being allowed to be and who is going to pay for them. If Internet Companies in the USA can have their own Nuclear Power generation then surely the Biggest, busiest airport in Europe can. Not just passenger flights but all the freight we are told they handle. Surely a very good profit making business with the Huge Airport / runways, so where does all the money go to. Major Shareholders. Ardian, Qatar Investments, Public Investment Fund, GIC, Australian Retirement Fund, China Investment Corporation, etc etc. So much for UK and any type of security, Import / Exports, Travel etc etc. Nationalise Heathrow...

i forget about it because it's my "automatic" habit from previous cars before leave car, while keeping brake pedal pressed, move lever to P, activate handbrake, release brake pedal

I’ve gone for “Black Magic”. I’m excited for it! I’ve wanted to go electric for a while now so glad it can finally happen. Unfortunately I can’t charge at home for now, which will make it slightly tricky (rented accommodation, about to buy so waiting before getting a home charger). However I’m quite lucky with where I work, there’s charging available at a discounted cost and I work long and many shifts so it’s almost always guaranteed to be charged 🤣

Yep, in a modern car the electronics which are "always on" (or at least on for ages after you turn off the ignition) have controls to try to protect the battery. These controls will progressively turn off electrical systems in the car so that you have the best chance of starting the engine.

I would say no, even on a 10 mile run my 1.8TSI reaches nearly 100C, and over 90C on a 5 mile run. Like already said I would change the thermostat as your first step.

Don't try and start it again!! Diesel in petrol's not as bad as petrol in diesel so you might get lucky here since it was only driven a short way. Not much you can do about it on a Sunday IMO but get it recovered ASAP and explain to the recovery person why and to NOT START IT! Could be looking at a new cat and maybe injectors/ fuel lines etc.

Something definitely isn't right sussamb but, as Ootohere up-post commented, the dealership are not very helpful. In fact, the words 'wall' and 'brick' spring to mind so the more evidence I can gather from the good people on this forum the more likely they are to take note ( I hope! ).

Mines going back to the dealers with this issue in a few weeks. I've also got an issue with the self leveling lights so not a wasted journey

What has a standard/electronic dipstick got to do with draining oil from the sump ?

Tell an independent VAG specialist this story. They may have a suggestion (my thoughts being around the expansion bottle).

Indeed. Not looking forward to the £620 road tax.

Do you not have car play/mirror link/android auto activated on your car? Do you have the "Smart Link" option but it is just not activated? It may be a smaller cost than you think to activate the built-in functionality of your radio, then preserving all the cars functions you also control from your screen.

Thanks to you both for the replies. From what you tell me I think I'll get it done fairly soon. The previous belt was fitted by Skoda main dealer, so I presume genuine parts were used. I now get my repairs done by an independent mechanic working alone - whom I trust completely - so I'll get him to do it, including the water pump. Thanks again.

VW released few days ago a firmware update for the transmission.. they installed it in my car and apparently the problem looks to be fixed without replacing the parts.. hope this can be helpful.

Good work. I get up to 40 when driving sensibly. My enthusiasm usually drops it to low 30’s but I can live with that.

It’ll be a faulty wheel speed sensor. Symptoms identical to mine about three years ago.

Mine is slightly off centred to the left and always has been one-way or the other. I had Hunter 4W alignments done in the 1st year of ownership on at least 1/2 doz occasions. It could be off to the left, then the right then left again. I gave up. But it is bloody annoying as I’d love to have it centred properly.

I'm no expert on the subject but I firmly believe that to carry out alignment / tracking of a vehicles wheels then the steering wheel should firstly be 'centred' and fixed / locked in place, and then the aligning adjustments done on the four wheels.......... @Netman .... F1 by any chance???

Whatever's buckled your wheel (large pot hole, hitting a kerb, having the wheel hit whilst parked at angle etc etc) has possibly bent a track rod. No amount of wheel balancing, pressure fettling etc will fix it if it's the case. The wheel alignment has likely 'fixed' them all to track true, just no longer true to the steering wheel being centered. I'd ask a friendly garage to get it on the ramps and have a look, should only cost a packet of decent biscuits.

Derek as you probably remember I refer and put link up to the Owner's Manuals often and I've only had a couple of fails a long time back, I've only just earlier put the link up and tested it and it was fine. I'm on MS 11 and lastest Chrome. This is the link I always use, tested again and working fine at this point in time. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models ETA: just retested, signed out of site, cleared Chrome history, signed back into site, clicked on posted link and it took me there where it allowed me to download a 2015 pdf. HTH.

So first week on the road, about 250KM done and no issues at all. ( touch wood !) When the engine went back into the car a few careful modifications were done. Now whereas before I averaged 6.5L/100KM, I know get 5L/100KM. Arrived home today and dipped the oil. It's still as clear as the day it went in. So draw your own conclusions from this. The springs I put in made a difference to the height but the ride is almost as soft as before when in DCC Normal, Sport also feels the same as before. There's no weight in the car , so this may change with a larger weight.

In electronic parlance perhaps the clockspring would just be called a ribbon cable!