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#Some girls do and some girls don't, some girls need a lot of buying drinks and food and others don't'. Same with boys. Many will charge an EV at public chargers and not feel the needs to splash cash on sitting in or taking away drinks or food. Or might do that even if they drive an ICE vehicle. Car parks are occupied by people not driving ev's at various locations and doing what they do. It takes all types of people. I am of the tight type of person that eats what i want or need and budget myself to my means. Home charging and saving loads can maybe mean i spend what is saved on whatever. Public charging and paying more than running an ICE vehicle makes me tighter fisted and liable to have food or drink with me. Or if i want to splash out i do. Meal Deals at Filling Station with a Bakery maybe. Or a McD or KFC something. Not £3 or more for a hot drink when a 100 gram jar of coffee i have at home is £1.15

You can quite happily keep running that Diesel Kodiaq for as long as you like and its brand new equivalent will continue to be sold until 2030. In 2035 you could buy a used 2029 Kodiaq if you wished to do so. Basically you aren’t going to be forced to do anything you don’t like for at least 20 years when the future supply of Diesel Kodiaq may start to run out.

Glorious at Calke Abbey this afternoon. Great to see so many 🐝👍

Hi and welcome to the Forum. If you do a search or ask the question in the Karoq section the guys will send you in the right direction.

So overall the charge cost you £16... The point I was trying to make was that because you were there for so long you paid an extra £10 for two drinks... Something you probably wouldn't have done at a petrol station where you stop for 5 minutes? I wonder how many EV users account for those 'hidden' extra costs?

Sensible - Dual motor Teslas ? Generally I am very critical of Toyota but with the latest Prius they have a little electric motor at the back, think about 10hp, to help get it moving in icy conditions. Good "sensible" thinking. I always go for the smaller battery if I can as I can general exceed the WLTP range ie I can get close to 300 miles out of my 63 Kwh Scenic, it can get most of a charge it 36 kws, is a overnight charge and we are suppose to only charge it to 80% normally of course for NMC chemistry. Mini's usable battery is 36 kwh so again can get charged from zero to full in an overnight session on that cheap lecky due to few others wanting to use the power at that time. To create cheap public it would have to be at those 11 pm to 6am currently. It will change as battery storage units are co-placed with the Public charges but there economically has to be a premium to cover the capital cost of the battery storage units. As I mentioned recently I see much more variation of charging through the day ie higher prices like my brother sees for his Heat pump system on the Octopus pricing. Have to be some warnings that prices may change during charging ie start charging at 1555 and then the price jumps up at 1600 as below. When I visit i plug in via a 3 pin plug, start charging around 1900 and unplug 7 am. Pay him a bit over the odds for what I have used, everyone's a winner. https://octopus.energy/smart/cosy-octopus/ If I did not have a drive to charge 2 or 3 cars the simple solution is to get a Public Charging subscription. Tesla, sadly its Elon of course, do some very good charge rates considering the 20% VAT rate but there are others ie Ionity, even Gridserve do something I gather. Those of us with wall home chargers have paid out for these wallboxes, one way or another, they are not freebies in a box of cereal. Those who use public charging, at that is pretty much all of us even if we use home charging 96% of the time must realize the capital cost of these units. When my company owned Source London I saw the import costs of these units, staggering. I wish AC had taken off more. Going from 3 phase AC to DC is not as efficient within these chargers and hence there is a charge for the losses of course which can be several percent. Multiple complex issues I hope you appreciate and UK government has big decisions which due to those complexities are difficult to get across in a 30 seconds news headline.

I’d love to have DCC slider mod done but can’t seem to find anyone. If anyone knows someone that can, please do shout on here!

Finally cover for the aircon unit tidies it up Next project also arrived

Some may find this useful so here goes. Bought a 74 plate Fabia 1.5 Monte Carlo DSG (with winter and charging packs) in Feb and have now been driving it daily for 6 months. Reason for choice, I wanted an automatic, it’s the right size and I was adamant I didn’t want a 3 cylinder 1.0L engine - it’s just a quirk I have but it ruled out several other options. Pro’s Really nice to drive. Responsive, comfortable, good visibility and excellent economy (I average 50mpg). DSG is as good as any VW I’ve driven- it really is nice. FAST when you give it a boot full! All the bells and whistles one could need although lane assist annoys the life out of me (but can always turn it off) Good build quality Excellent boot space for class or car Good insurance premium (half that of my previous BMW 225) Cons Nothing major but a few irksome elements Infotainment system is sometimes a bit irrational, goes completely dead on occasion for no reason. A/C is not particularly cold. Might be solved with a rehab but is only 9 months old!! Finally a few irritations with Skoda themselves as follows: Spare wheel as an accessory is £300 but only £155 if ordered with a new car. This is the top model but has no front sensors or reverse camera (now addressed with new colour edition). Service plans are not great IMO. I’ve found an Independant VAG specialist who is miles better in service offered and cost. After sales from Skoda dealership - this doesn’t really bother me to be fair but they did promise several follow up courtesy call etc. but I’ve not heard a peep. Conclusion - I am very happy with my Fabia, glad I bought it, have no regrets whatsoever and would happily buy the same car again if I went back in time. Hope this helps someone currently looking.

I'd have to do a search again, but if I remember there was ECU Testing and VCUS and a few others. Do a search for DQ381 pressure switch repair. But check with your garage first, make sure they are happy going this route. If it fails under warranty you'll be caught for the labour and oils.

Thanks Paul. Missus has been moaning about it since we took delivery. Peace on two fronts now 🤣🤣

@travs that's not true 🥲 I just wrote some scripts to guess the file names of the next releases in last years scripts becomes useless, because VW has closed down their offline maps download server

Is allowed To Share tpi? TPI-2072245-5.pdf

Thank you. Will do.

In which case this feels to me like software isn’t the issue. If it’s basically happened with multiple tries of different software (and 324 was the first problem) then that variable has changed a few times with the same result. Same with the Navigation. Doesn’t seem like it’s sitting right for whatever reason. I’d be inclined to go back to a Skoda Dealer, play dumb about the updates and just highlight the navigation and connectivity issues. See if they can update the OCU and if not change it.

. Check this... Password send PM https://mega.nz/#P!AgBjIVaAPhBAV0eYvlLxnOxxeE38a7UgAG6X3agCdgtWJa94QjnCNJYzFc-PTaldmEEy3IBj_PmAV7FqW5xtTm8JIwlNCdBZrajLv8biP7-kX1bnse-VOg

@Nibbos i don’t think there is a recess in boot floor - the polystyrene storage creates the wheel shaped void for the spacer saver wheel. A full size 8 inch wheel and tyre would be too high and above the boot lip.

Have you tried a second time in case something didn’t update properly? If not, try it again. Otherwise, it may be an OCU update required. It’s the unit that talks to phones and can affect navigation if it’s going all over the place. For the WiFi - have a play in the settings menu ticking options. I found my car was connecting to the home WiFi and then losing any data as soon as I drove off Also - look at updating maps if you want. There’s an updated version from 24.6 👍🏼

Bear in mind that it may depend on the phone. My old phone, which I lost/had stolen in March didn't support wireless, but my new one does. My car is 2021, so it may have different software/hardware.

Thanks for your replies...checked and the passenger door does have a notch. Feeling pretty silly now!!! Thanks again

Local Crematorium in the countryside. Simply clever. More going in.

to code a battery on VAG vehicles you have OBD11 or VCDS. those are cheapest versions.. for other stuff you can use some generic obd2 tool for 5-50$ and app like car scanner.. maybe torque. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ovz.carscanner or renew your licence on Carista

I did a parts list for the TT RS upgrade years ago. Not sure if it’s still accurate but it’s a start if you want to explore it: Caliper Left # 8J0615107B Caliper Right # 8J0615108B 2 X Rotor # 8J0615301K (370mm) Pads # 8J0-698-151-K Sensor # 8J0-615-437 2 X Caliper carriers 8P0615301 Splash shields 8J0615311E (may need modifying) Good luck.

As above it’s fuse 54 your looking for. My fuse box is same layout as yours and handbook diagram, and as mentioned slightly more populated.

The two, or more, tier society and even where the will is there to try and redress this, rather than the Con party who wish to conserve the status quo it is difficult but things can be done and I wish the UK government would do some of them. Since the UK has left the EU over 3 years ago it then had the power to do more with VAT. So I would suggest they drop the Public charging VAT rate down to what was previous VAT rates ie 17.5%, then 15%, then 12.5% then 10% and then 8% and eventually 5% same as the home rate VAT. The problem is that charging at home, for those of us that can, uses that base level supply of GRID electricity which can be offered very cheap from about 11 PM to 6 AM in the morning. If Public charging was made much cheaper then drivers might want to charge say on the way home from work or in the evening if they go out. Home charging at levels such as 7 kws suits the Grid. Cheaper fast public charging could cause big spikes in the requested supply. A lot of Infrastructure needs to be built to handle that and we can see how little the successive Con government have lacked investment in that area as well as so many other areas. It makes one wonder how the UK got £3T in debt, Covid's £400M apart, where did all the money go.

As a ''general idea'' here is to use them (in a car like Felicia 1.3) when you are going to travel (Highway-Mountain) so you will push the engine in higher rpm so those ''clening'' additives will do better job. Of course it's an unofficial view of the matter although some drivers report betetr performance, one click cleaner valves etc.

My honest opinion is neither. The iV hybrid required more frequent servicing, and unless those services are at very regular intervals, could be some stretched out gaps. Also unless you also get a full battery report that shows it is healthy, assume an expensive replacement might be required. You are looking at adding 6 years and taking mileage to near 250k. Probably should be thinking of needing average of £1k+ of replacement parts each year. The diesel is even older, 9 years old and a very high spec car, that means larger number of expensive to repair features are fitted. The more there is, the more that can potentially fail. There is also the general problem of the more rare the feature, the longer it often takes to source any spare parts. Having said that the engine should be reliable, although I wouldn't trust the gearbox if it may or may not have been serviced. If you do take the risk on cars like this, then make sure you have a fund of about £3000 sitting in easy access account, because at some stage, something expensive (maybe multiple things) are going to need repairing after failing. Might not happen immediately, but almost certainly will happen one day. Remember a repair isn't like a few pounds for a new headlight bulb, a matrix unit installed and fully calibrated is going to cost nearer £1000

dont change batteries with open doors on car or sitting in car. lock car, go away from it in apartment, ensure that is no signal to car and then replace. i always do that way. dont put thick battery. it should easy fit on its place without pushing etc..

It depends on your beliefs about climate change. You can’t really compare the horse - steam - diesel/petrol evolution to electric road vehicles as each was a huge increase in performance that sold itself. Without legislation to push it, what is the alternative - wait for sea levels to rise ?

Thanks @djmartzian for your answer. Unfortunately The eeprom memory rewrite option seems to be out of my range so i prefer find someone that can do that. I'm located in France next to Rennes so maybe someone has a contact to give me ?

Yes :)

Thanks, it has had 8 service stamps since 2021 so I figure it got services about twice a year, that's an average of every 20k miles. It's also had 2 DSG services and the last one was around 110k miles so about 50k miles ago.

Well all of that above is all very interesting to those who have the space and the ability to charge at home, off road, but at £12 for 10Kw it just shows one of the main stumbling blocks. I really don't know if the UK Government for example are even aware of the fact that they are just perpetuating a two tier social divide on yet another angle? There are those that that are the higher wage earners and are therefore far more likely to own their own home, or can afford to rent a home with off street parking and the ability to add in a home charger in order to take advantage of the added benefits that provides in considerably lower running costs. Then to further add insult to those lower paid people, the government actually giving those wealthier ones grants to purchase the cars. While those in the lower income brackets, are more than likely to live in a house with no off street parking and no access to a home charger, they are also more likely to not be able to afford the payments on a new car anyway and driving a sub £5k car and even if they were able to get a secondhand EV for that kind of money, then even at 4 miles per kW , that 10kW is only enough for 40miles, thus making it far far cheaper to run an ICE car than to rely on having to charge at public chargers. 🤨

I understand that the problem could be that the caliper does not return correctly and overheats the disc?

Same hardware (shocks, springs & module) between Superb, Passat and Arteon. Wat differs is the DCC shocks software (algorithm) on the DCC Module, used between the various cars. Hence the "DCC Mod" that a number of us have done. The DCC Mod loads the DCC suspension algorithm parameter file from the Arteon/Passat to the Superb's DCC module. It fixed the Superb's suspension and ride - 100%. This mod requires a Gateway update, DCC parameter file and a DCC Recalibration.

Out of interest, is your car auto or manual? Cos i read that they're quite tough to fit on manual cars, which mine is, but fancied one...

Interesting to show and compare stickers ... my DNFE '21 shows.... I am on the opinion that the change to 0W-30 was just to achieve better score in the emissions statistics, and not a real technical requirement ... while I keep compiling information, curiously I've noticed that the 504/507 norm is solely for "long service interval" to which all cars seem to be subjected to when sold (new), and no other lubricants except up to 0W-30 are within that range .... but the question is ... when you switch to "normal interval", it would make sense then to utilize the 502/505, which seems to be what VW was promoting before for EA888 engines including the earlier 280... oils like the Castrol Edge promoted as the standard oil are upto 5W-40 in 502/505 guise, but only 0W-30 in the 504/507 guise .... Since I am on "short interval", will get an eye out for502/505 oils and see what is coming up ...

This thread has, sadly, descended into a lot of whataboutery. There is some hugely uniformed opinion based on what folks did 20 plus years ago. I'm old enough to remember back 50 years to what we did to keep simple lead / acid batteries in good nick. But I'm also wise enough to understand that technology has moved on.

@EnterName I know your not a fan of moderators, but maybe breathe before you aim snark at them… Posts that have certain phrases or email addresses in them get flagged automatically by forum software for a manual review as part of spam defence. Helps keep the place a nice relaxed spam free environment 😊

Can also recommend a stiffer rear roll bar. I'd actually do that before anything else. The L&K should have DCC so you can adjust the dampers to your preference. There's a vcds mod that opens the fixed presets to a slider. I think it allows greater high and low limits too.

Bilstein B6 + Eibach Pro springs (from Kodiaq), version without lowering -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/page/3/#findComment-5854160

I would want a Battery Condition certificate for the PHEV. I would want a 50 miles minimum test drive starting off with a full battery and run on Electric only to see how it is. As well as the Fixed Regime 9,400 mile oil & filter changes with the 1.4 TSI were the spark plugs changed each 40,000 miles when the DQ400-e DSG was being serviced? So 4 times now.

Couple of shots from the last game of the season..

Not a bad idea - and not sure if the Passat or Arteon will be a straight swap. But you could easily chuck on some Bilstein B6 with standard springs. That will sort out the rebound without lowering.

She was a Bad 'un but it shouldn't reflect on the dealership. Not much compensation for those that suffered at her hands but I thnk this has been covered by other threards on this site.

OPs profile reads Morocco as location, so they may not care there. Too bad about the excess emissions though.

It's a Skoda citigo could this be a lambda sensor

Hey guys, I just fixed a very similar problem on my car where the rear wiper only worked intermittently. The culprit was cracked solder and thus poor connection on the circuit board that sits within the rear wiper assembly. See my last post here for photos:

I installed front and rear Blackvue dashcams into my 2020 Superb iV. The front camera is mounted just to the left of the interior mirror/camera/sensor 'pod' and the rear camera to the righthand side of the high-level brake light. The wiring runs down the left hand A pillar, under the left hand door sill interior covers then up to the left hand C pillar, though the rubber wiring conduit into the tailgate. Mains power is provided by a piggyback fuse connector in the fusebox behind the glovebox (I can't remember which circuit!). It doesn't appear to have affected any of the electronics and the dashcams work fine, wifi to the iPhone as they should.

@Superbsport - removing the A-pillar is not difficult, its the "putting it back" bit that is tricky, because u gotta align it perfectly, and swing it in, while pushing down the bit which slides into the dash. took me a number of goes, lots of swearing & sweating, but got it in the end. this is the A-pillar trim removed. the bit on the left slots/slides in between the dash and the pillar. u can also see the two clips, which need to be aligned (while pushing down, with holes in the A-pillar), before pushing in hard to secure the A-pillar trim. u can see the existing routing inside the A-pillar here, with the airbag sitting in front. with the plastic cover on the end of the dashboard - it pops off very easily. u'll notice a small indent, which u can place a tool in to pry it out.