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As above. If you supply a pump and "the garage" fits it, then maybe after 6 months there's a problem with the part or workmanship.......who's to say if it's the part that's the problem or the workmanship. Have the garage supply and fit the part then if there's a problem it's on them.

Just done the basics in the engine bay, will leave that for the boy. I managed to get my hand on a set of steel wheels with summer tyres, that aren't too old, so we've spent the day cleaning them, rubbing them back, getting rid of rust, and priming them - tomorrow we'll buy some wheel paint to spray them with.

It's a quite common error many of the 1.4 TSI DSG PHEV estate owners experience. It's a common bug in all similar VAG (Volkswagen, Skoda, Audi, Seat) models. I've seen the error about 3 or 4 times as well. But as you say, then it just disappears and doesn't appear for a couple of months or in some cases, years. Hence, even if you change the part there's no guarantee that bug isn't going to pop up again. Sadly Skoda doesn't accept it as a manufacturer error. From the link provided by others you can see that the part cost about 350 € and if you live in a EU country then it costs about another €250 to change the part. As it seems like a passive bug and doesn't put the car into limp mode, it may be something that you can live with. In worst case scenario, you turn off the engine and start the car again "poof" the bug disappears. I have seen couple of videos in YouTube how people fix this problem, but as I regard as it is non-invasive to daily driving, it's not worth wasting so much money on it. Of course, it's your call.

And this pic was taken just before lunch. First time I've seen this output in a while 😁:

Fair. Probably best to let the mechanic do it. Wouldn't you just let the mechanic buy what they need? That's how it normally works right? You don't buy anything if you aren't doing the job. Just take car to mechanic and they will get what they need based on their experience.

It's always great to see the older Skodas out snd about so please do share a pic or two of yours - and any info to go along with the pic. I'll start. My 1988 105 LUX from today. All standard / original apart from alloy wheels, electronic ignition and gauge cluster from a 105 GL (not sold in the UK). It was my first car, gifted by a neighbour.

A few new exhibits at Yorkshire Sculpture Park, including Damien Hirst (man with the Golden...... 😳)

This was long in the making, but finally today I put my will into it. Been wanting to find an accomodation for a fire extinguisher (here compulsory by law) for a long time. Not to have it swinging around, I've looked into the accessories' catalogue options, and I got the relevant parts:

There is a huge difference in climate /ambient temps with the UK and Bristol area and Finland.

Had a look but not enticing for either electricity or gas. It is the Night electricity rate which is key for my cheap running and that us not ruled by the price cap but at the discretion of Octopus and the other firms who offer dual rate tariffs. My 12M Gas is set at 5.39p per kwh until mid June abd I will start looking at fixes next month. Pla. To biuld up a but of credit, get my solar to provide all the day tine owerri need, even on cloudy days and find a nice big battery before Q3 starts. Less £100 per kwh in a criteria and at least able to supply 3 kw. Of course cpukd use thd R5 car at times as V2L. Some signs ships might get thru in bigger numbers soon.

I do a lot of short distance driving in electric mode on my 2021 PHEV. About once a month it insists on sunning on the ICE for about 10 miles, after that it will allow a swich back to electric mode.

@lol-lol That link is a good guide. Pity that after TESLA and until recently Stellantis was the other major BEV manufacturer with so many brands but basically the same platform but no mention. ? Did you not get a chance to fix your tariff for 12 months and your low rate?

Skoda dealt with the issues of Octavia PHEV,s and cold weather or engines not being run much. They discontinued manufacturing them. But still there is the Superb and Kodiaq. Time will tell how these go.

After 2 local garages used their diagnostics and found nothing, I finally took the plunge and paid for a VW/Skoda specialist investigation. They found a problem with the engine speed sensor. This was replaced, but they said that if this didn't cure the issue, it would be a gearbox fault. However, some weeks have passed and I've done about 1000 miles since the sensor was replaced, and all is good so far. Diagnostics, plus replacement, plus labour and retest came to £550. Not cheap, but I'm happy that my car seems fine now......touch wood!

Nice write-up. I'd like to add that you need turn the crank in it's rotational direction (clockwise) as it's designed to only turn one way. 2nd thing i would like to add is to make sure you locked the crankshaft in it's correct position in relation to the camshaft position meaning, the camshaft needs to be in TDP. You are able to be on the wrong stroke and lock the crankshaft in the correct position, but in the wrong position for the camshaft. Double check your work that you can lock both in the same position to save yourself from doing double the work 🙂

I 100% agree. Any of the differences between 0W-20, 0W-30 and 5W-30 really don’t make much of a difference in the real world - certainly nothing compared to working a cold engine hard, or not doing the correct service intervals. Most of the engine issues we see over here with these engines are due to misuse, poor servicing, chain failure (due to servicing) and the water pump housing. That being said, I do disagree with you on one point - the cold start damage. Even with fancy modern oils, the majority of engine wear does still occur when the engine is cold and the cold oil is sitting at the bottom. Sure, it’s not as bad as it once was on older engines, but the point remains. Bottom line for this thread is that I would just stick with whatever VW suggest, unless the car is heavily tuned (or on 200,000 miles). There are so many other variables on engine longevity that running a a slightly heavier weight oil (as you said) doesn’t make much difference. I think regular servicing, being kind to a cold engine and sticking to the intervals (engine oil, gearbox, diff, etc) are more important. The only reason I would put 0W-30 in my car is for a track day. Otherwise I’ll stick to what VW suggests and if it blows up, it blows up.

Thanks. I realise it isn't the very best approach, but it cost me a lot less of my precious (I'm old!) time and effort. I was happy to do this on this engine, because I know it may have other problems that would require possible major work or DIY complete replacement (that's often more economical in time and money in this country, not true everywhere). I'm thinking there of a possible fire-ring headgasket leak which may be responsible for the coolant pressurising. I did find my spare intercooler matrix to try, just in case it might be that instead, but haven't fitted that yet. I doubt it is this, but worth trying for the minimal effort at some time. I managed to do the whole top chain cover off/on without draining coolant, by tying those hoses out towards expansion tank and removing the plastic clip from around them. That gave just enough space to move the sealant coated cover back into position without knocking it on anything and disturbing my neat lines of sealant. Must pop out and check if the oil leak seems to be gone after this morning's drive. It would have been easier to clean off the old sealant if I had drained coolant and moved that lot all completely clear, and I could have used the locating pins from the timing pin kit if I had. I'm writing most of this for the information and interest of anyone else reading who might contemplate doing the same, if they get the same fault code. Other crucial thing is to remember that the crank locking pin, only locks it in one direction; you have to force the crank clockwise against it to be sure the crank is in the correct position. This can conveniently be done with a 12-point 18mm socket-plus ratchet handle, or ring spanner, on the crank bolt, ratchet strapped back to the wishbone, preventing reverse crank rotation while making adjustments up top.

Be aware that raw numbers often don't always mean that much, they can look good for sales but a higher number that doesn't last as long may not be as good as a lower number that retains for longer. A better battery will perform better for longer. Also when comparing numbers they need to be from the same system of testing to get those numbers. A typo there you mean 700A for 680A - these figures refer to the CCA (cold cranking amps) rather than amp hour (Ah) capacity of the battery. Some info if you want it, VW and nta. - SSP-504_Vehicle_Batteries.pdf SSP-234-Vehicle-batteries.pdf CarBatteryInformation.pdf CCAspecs.pdf

My Renaults will not move if the cable is still attached to the car ie a movement lock. Suppose I should find out how to unbind the cable from the car if it came to it, on the Mini Cooper e too. Will check the location of both, or 3 including the Scenic, so I can use if worse comes to worse. Found this link, might be a bit generic but it does sound a common feature to have a manual release mechanism tucked away in the "engine bay" somewhere.... https://leap24.co.uk/support/cable-stuck/ In other news I had my first Octopus bill covering mostly March but a bit of April. Average electricity cost 8.35p per KWh including Day and Night rate for the 163 KWh of lecky used in the first 4 days of April. Be looking forward for plenty of that for the next 3 months. If electricity goes up 20% in July then new challenge. Whether to go for one of this Balcony, plug in solar systems but I would probably always have a storage battery between solar collection and my ring main as I tend to only be using about 200 W most the time in the day with occasion 3KW boiling the kettle and with 90% of power use during Night time period to keep the cost down. More batteries needed but one that can run over 3KW loading I reckon. But then the Renault 5 can act as Vehicle to Load which could be useful when electricity prices go nuts in July.

According to Autoparts 24's website the Octavia (and other VAG cars of course) had the CYVB engine, I have no idea how accurate this information is of how much, or not, the engine installations and bits associated the engine vary in these models but you could perhaps do a search for your issue or CYVB issues in the Octavia section of this site, or Google search which will probably bring you to this section, forum, post(s) on this site and perhaps other sites. List of other VAG models with CYVB engine on Autoparts 24. - https://www.autoparts-24.com/engine/code/cyvb/26740/ Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020) forums on Briskoda. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/ HTH.

It's not removing excessive slack. It's simply compensating for stretch. The slack is still being taken up by the tensioner

That's great news! Indeed, i didn't go thru the entire thread. I predominantly judge it from a mechanical perspective. I am still unsure how removing "excessive" slack by realigning the sprocket has had 0 adverse effects. Either it was out of time, or it was not. Chain stretch is microns work. Realignment is mm work. Anyhoe, glad it worked out

Am in UK ignore email address. Yes If I did plump for a PHEV would be as you say be 2021 or later so hopefully plenty of life it it yet. I am sure I read somewhere some time ago, maybe a What Car video, Skoda gave a 10 year warranty on the battery that after 10 years would still be at 70% or more. Have been trolling the Skoda site and can find no reference to a MHEV at all not that I am in the market for one.

Hi, Registered a little while back as I was looking for a vRS, finally found one I liked and took the plunge. It has a few things to sort out but I enjoy fettling with cars so that’s all good. A few pics for you delectation.

Came that way, they need doing again as there’s quite a few scuffs so will like get them done a darker colour. Funnily enough I check the oil weekly, force of habit, and had top it up. That said it’s not gone done much since then to wondering if it was a shade low after it was served pre sale. Will continue to monitor. Not used the VAG system but used my Icarsoft system to check and it seems okay, I’m going to plug it in to another system this week so can check again.

Wonder if the throttle body is sticking at some point and not closing properly randomly. Alasdair

I believe the Octavia PHEV was only available from 2021 to 2024, so all will be the mk4 version, all have the small(ish) 13kWh battery, officially giving up to just over a 40 mile range, in reality nearer 25-30 mile range, and with only one gearbox as stated by Evolution13 above. When the mk4.5 (facelift) was introduced in 2025 the PHEV was discontinued in favour of the MHEV version (1.5TSI e-TEC which is not plug in). The PHEV has a raised boot floor height to accommodate the battery and there is room for a charging cable underneath but not much else. You could have a spare wheel and store it in the boot using the tie down points to keep it in place. Some have managed to get a space saver (skinny) spare to fit under the boot floor but not ideal. However, as you may not be in the UK the information above may be different in other countries. Pretty sure I've got that correct, happy to be corrected by anyone with greater knowledge than myself.

Main driver reports "best it's ever driven". Seems very happy with the improvement, as am I. I think your doubts @stigma my be partly due to not yet having understood completely.

Will do thanks

I asked my friendly AI: AI Overview A rattle from the airbox on a Mk2 Skoda Superb is commonly caused by deteriorated or missing rubber mounting grommets holding the airbox to the engine bay, causing it to vibrate . Other causes include a loose intake snorkel, a poorly fitting engine cover/airbox lid, or broken plastic clips, particularly on TDI models. Common Causes for Airbox Rattles: Failed Mounting Grommets: The rubber mounts that secure the airbox to the engine break down, resulting in direct plastic-to-metal contact and rattling. Loose Intake Snorkel: The air intake ducting (snorkel) leading to the front grille may become loose. Poorly Sealed Airbox Lid: The lid of the airbox may not be seated properly, or its clips may be broken. Airbox Hitting Components: The airbox may vibrate against the engine cover, bulkhead, or nearby hoses. How to Fix It: Replace Rubber Mounts: Check the rubber mountings under the airbox and replace them if they are broken or worn. Secure the Intake: Check that the plastic snorkel is firmly attached to the front grill area. Tighten the Airbox: Ensure all clips on the airbox lid are secure. Using thin rubber or foam tape to seal the box or prevent it from touching surrounding parts can resolve the issue. I hope this helps 🤞

given the age range above is from 2017 to 2022 it’s crossing mk3 - mk4 models. There isn’t any “general” Octavia zone really, so may be best here. Rather, if the op were to explore the 2 model subs they’d get the info they are looking for.

I really wonder why BabyDog chose the car in the first place. Did he/she not take it for an extended test drive ?

Have a look in the vehicle hand book or beside spare wheel. You are looking for a sticker I use https://www.oemvwshop.com/pr-code-decoder/ to decode them. As said not sure if reverse lights are mentioned specificly. You may have to get a full list from Skoda. Alasdair

probably requires a replacement of this unit: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5wa713033cd-selector-mechanism-skoda-50690.html can be a failure of the internal microswitch which is affected by debris and mechanical wear video shows how to get access to it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auwizaon8Q4 A dealer will have come across these issues before, be aware they will charge you for an initial diagnosis...

An nice story, Paul! I confess to a personal almost-total avoidance of DIY on the Yeti (63 plate) nowadays, and my 'next generation' have taken to EVs and roof panels (and their own 'next generation'). The AA came and replaced the (original) battery for me 18 months ago; it was a case of check old battery, remove old battery, install new battery, start engine, and finish drinking tea provided by Herself - completely hands-off throughout for me. Apart from switching engine off when AA expert had gone.

Tonight's sunset............

I think you exaggerate a bit, when you say it is a death trap... First of all, Lane assist is mandatory....and the fact that you don t find helpful, doesn't mean that it is not for others... Next, the speed warning is not that loud at all, except of being mandatory too. If it is not connected to your sound system, then you barely can hear it... Regarding virtual pedal now, it is true that it has happened to me a couple of times...but there is a reason...like you said you were organizing stuff in the boot..at this moment feet, are exactly facing the virtual pedal sensor, and their motion is read as a command to close...it is a matter of getting used to it and treat it accordingly.... Finally, regarding AEB, it is true that I have heard so from a couple of drivers, but personally, it has been engaged a couple of times, that really needed to... Other than that, I find it to be one of the best cars I ve ever had, which of course isn't quite a reliable criterion, but among other drivers I know, it is far one of the best in its class...

The AEB was far too overzealous on mine and frankly dangerous to drive. It would do an emergency stop when driving around a bend at 20mph with parked cars both sides, with zero chance of a collision or a near miss. I also nearly got rear-ended on at least a dozen occasions. It also gave my girlfriend whiplash when reversing up a driveway as a damn dandelion (FFS!) caused the car to suddenly stop for no reason. Other dangerous "aids" that really annoyed me were: • Virtual pedal - fine for opening the tailgate when carrying something heavy, but why would it try to close and bash me on the head when I was organising the load. I soon turned this rubbish off. • Speed warning - I got fed up of this shouting at me when driving 21mph in a 20mph limit. All I wanted was to leave the display on, but disable the annoying very loud alarm. Having to do this every time I started the car was beginning to drive me insane. • Lane assistance - yet another useless aid that needed to be turned of before every drive. Making the steering wobble when going through a tight width restriction was the last straw, as it caused damage to the front nearside alloy where I could've easily avoided in myself, grrrr! Seriously... If we need stupid aids like this to drive properly, then we don't deserve to be on the road. I have eyes, quick reactions, know the highway code, know speed limits and know where the brake pedal is.... so why does the f***ing car need to do all this for me and in a HIGHLY dangerous manner! IMHO the Skoda Kodiaq MK2 is a potential death trap and I strongly urge anybody to steer well clear of this evil machine until VAG either reduce the sensitivity or enable it all to be turned off - permanently! Rant over!

It’s chemistry. Batteries don’t work very well, in the cold as the chemical reaction markedly slows down. All battery performance is significantly degraded but it does no permanent damage. Most modern cars can heat batteries to keep them in an optimal range. I don’t know the situation with IV specifically. For completeness high temperatures also impairs battery performance but in addition does permanent damage.

It might take as many years as the millions that have it functioning and not wearing out. But then over 20 years it might matter how many times a day the car starts off after you or people get in and out of the car. Lets say as a guess maybe OK for another 15 years.

We had an early estate identical to that for about 13 years. Everything still worked when we sold it with over 130,000 miles on the clock. It went on to do just under 200,000 miles before it eventually went to the scrapyard in the sky

Not pretty, but not bad for 25 years old.. 84500 on the clock, and suffers quite badly from the dreaded "Red Paint Peel", but on the upshot, no rust. All the usual issues to be sorted out (drooped roof lining, driver's door lock or wiring issues, passenger front door window "glued in"... No winding mechnism for the rear drivers side door window. Head lights glass beyond cleaning up) Still, I like it. I'll be fitting a towbar soon. .

Found this on google, hope it helps

We picked up our Scala just over a week ago. Had a lot of tar spots that needed removing. Gtechniq W7 made light work of that. Got a few swirl marks that need some attention. A job for a summer evening when the sun goes down a bit.

They are not supplied painted to your car's colour as you have discovered, but if you are really lucky you might find someone selling painted ones on ebay - I found a rear boot handle for my wife's 2002 VW Polo when it was only a few years old, I can't explain why anyone was selling pre-painted handles, other than maybe a batch from the factory were crap - as like on her car, and VW supplied a "shed" load of pre-painted handles to address that, and I was lucky enough to grab one! Spray + Lacquer pack from VW Group is the cheapest way to solve this - I did that once when retro fitting parking sensors.

That will normally be linked to the offside front wheel abs sensor, but without the codes, we're just guessing

@Evolution13 Thats the problem with cars today: so much complexity in them that is all software-driven, and if we have learned anything, we should know how 1 digit or 1 line of code out of maybe millions, can, under the right conditions, wreak havoc and cause all kinds problems.

Solution Finish for the wiper cap. Probs the best “back to black” type product

Unfortunately when 3rd parties ( eg valet parking, airport parking, any motor trade business, breakdown service) have your car you have no control over who is behind the wheel. Many years ago my 3 year old Mitsubishi Space runner was written off by the Mitsubishi Dealers driver when returning it to my place of work after its 72,000 mile service.

So, an update. On Tuesday afternoon I was going to change the air quality sensor so, as I always do when changing something, I disconnected the battery. Unfortunately, I ran out of time, so I left the battery disconnected overnight. I replaced the sensor and reconnected the battery in the morning and cleared the normal illuminations on the dash. After about 15 mins of driving, I heard the confirmation “bong” for something and my seat then moved to my saved driving position. No idea if the battery disconnection reset the seat module, especially as it’s probably not a permanent live unit. Still, it’s up-and-running again so that’s a ridiculous sum saved for a new or used module and a contortionist job avoided to replace it!