Leaderboard

The 107 passed. 😁

Got back to the car in Ely at around 9.30 last night. Set about swapping in my new alt at about 6.30 this morning. Back on the road homeward by 9, home just about noon. I was persuaded by my sister not to hang around until 3pm to be there for when her 107 comes out of its MOT. Que sera, sera. New, 140A alt (thanks for that idea @stigma ) working well, as was the A/C fortunately! 😎

Now that that's done, time to move up to doing your own injector cleaning/balancing and intake cleaning 😅 I payed €275 for the walnutblaster and €245 injector cleaner. Good tool for as long as we have ICE engines. Additional costs will just be consumables .

A few from Floors Castle gardens today.

No, but that's way beyond being worth trying to save. I did refurb the car's original alt, but it's a right faff on the Valeo designs, and I wasn't very happy with the result. I did fit a new slipring assembly, which was pretty cheap, but I wouldn't bother again. Only paid £109 delivered for this aftermarket new one. The alt that the post-mortem pictures are of was sold on ebay as being from a car with only 50-odd thousand miles on it. In 6:6 (metric of 20:20) hindsight, I call BS!

Thanks Bap, but it was what Binx posted that I am after. Cheers for the link to skoda-parts Binx - I have found the right one for about 30 euros. Not too bad, and it will stop the tools rattling around in the boot!

Yes I have a working copy of MST2_EU_SK_PQ_P0255T 5FPQSW255. It's 3.4 GB and needs to be uncompressed with 7z. I got it from Kelvin Jones, many thanks to him. I updated my Yeti Amundsen this morning to correct the clock problem and it worked well. If anyone wants a copy email me at marc(at)buttoned(dot)net.

So it's finally done Setback, after setback. Got it tracked, driving lovely now with the new swaybars, caster increase bushes back in it and deadset kit. Was driving it (VERY gently) to bed stuff in, making sure it wasn't gonna leak etc. bone dry. Had to use a cone filter for now until I can sort the standard airbox. Replacement hardpipe from darkside fits much better. Took a day of work to get it mapped, hoped to trailer it up as the place that would do it is in ballymena. Which is about 90 ish miles from me. Didn't happen, so drove it up, carefully. Still with the new box it was sitting happy at low revs 60-70 mph no problem. Got 64mpg on the way up. Probably the hottest day of the year so far, 30°c had torque running but temps etc were perfect, drove great etc. Left it for a few hours and came back to 175hp and 260ftlbs of torque. Which is very solid for original injectors, and a 188k mile engine. Got even better fuel economy from ballymena to lisburn, picked up the pace on from there. For a hot, humid day it behaved extremely well, I know dynos are corrected for temp etc, but it was making that power consistently. Haven't noticed any smoke, was told the same when they were tuning it. It is running very clean, making strong power and getting somehow even better economy, undertrays etc aren't even on. 6 speed box feels well matched to the car, standard mk1 vrs dmf/clutch. Braided clutch line. Clutch feels great and changing gears is much nicer now (mostly due to the less scuffed shifter box originally from the sdi. For a car that's mostly kept looking standard, and a lot of the changes are ultimately standard VW parts from one car or another it really has come out decent. I don't need a low car, or a reeky car etc. Older pic from years back but still All the little bits and pieces but unless you had one side by side you'd struggle to see much different, even in this pic there's nothing really obvious. Got a lot of help and advice from a number of people and places, Amd87ts was a great source of info Max en caisse pointed me in the right direction with boost pipes and a few other odds and ends. Darkside were very helpful getting the right bits I was missing, and with stuff previously on the vrsdi. And autotune in ballymena have done a fantastic job on it. Wouldn't have the stones for it if I didn't have a forum like this to research on either. Few small jobs left. Hopefully all the a/c needs is a regas now, it's pretty dire without in this weather Need to fettle with the backbox it's hitting the axle over speed bumps, just slightly. Want to get my phone charger working again, it's been dodgy of late. Boost gauge (all it needs is 2 slightly longer hex bolts) Redo the fog tints and new spots etc. Small stuff, never ending.

Hi, I’m hoping someone can help me, I own a Skoda superb 2016 dsg, I’ve been driving along and suddenly car goes into limp mode and my car won’t drive, it comes up with a number of faults, tyre pressure, parking break fault, traction control etc, I turn it off wait a few minutes and turn key again, then it drives for a few miles and does the same again, the code reader tells me it’s lost control with tcm, I’ve changed wheel bearings and abs sensors and still nothing, now my car won’t start as it’s telling me to put the car in p/n which it is, I’m at a loss, please help

I had to originally, a "shop" update and a "registration" update, over the last few days the "shop" update seems to have disappeared, so I'm presuming its actually completed but I'm still getting the "registration" update. Had a bit of a panic this morning because the infotainment centre started up with a app opening than came up the can't open app on a black screen, thought had locked up completely, but when I pressed the Home but it was as it should be, thankfully.

Welcome to Briskoda @Jahna43 👋 I've moved your post to the MkIII Superb section so hopefully a fellow owner will be able to advise or help.

It is not anything to do with cells or packs if the cooling system is below them and the bottom skin.

@lol-lol I think you are right about it being a VW platform, just as the new Capri is as well.

Just did a quick post mortem on the alternator that I fitted approx 16 months back. As soon as the rear cover came off I could see that this was not a recent voltage regulator/ brushpack. I must have misremembered that. As the brushpack came away, big clumps of brush dust fell out. Both carbon brushes were pretty short, but the outer slipring is the standout feature! No wonder it was struggling.

Sorry I mistyped my address. It should be marc(at)buttonend(dot)net

What, £33,000 for a replacement battery?

There are now two ways to retrofit an MIB 3 MQB system. So, not an MIB 3 EVO. You can use the original 8" display, or you can install a 9.2" display somehow. ... I looked at both solutions... I tested an 8" VW unit, part number 3G5035820M. It's important to note that with TechnikSat/Preh/Joynext, the software version must not exceed 0332, otherwise the device cannot be patched. I have a USB solution for CP Off and all FeC Active. For it to work, the online services must be deactivated via coding. Then the coding needs to be adjusted. I find the VW HMI simply awful. Therefore, VW is out of the running for me. There are also 8" Seat or Skoda units. Alternatively, there's the larger MIB 3 MQB with a 9.2" screen. I used a Seat Ateca unit, part number The Display Octavia 3 9,2" is 5E0919606D The Ateca unit is from LG. Here I disabled CP and modified all FeCs with an EEPROM change. So, I created a dump, made the changes, and then wrote them back. Caution: With SFD 1 units, all coding and adaptations must be done beforehand, before patching. What else needs to be considered during the conversion, as the USB port will no longer function? This means the USB connection needs to be replaced. I used the following components: USB-C dual board, part number 5NA035736 The control method is now different; the new boards are powered by 5V from the MIB 3 and 12V from the vehicle's electrical system. The data line is also wired differently. Either modify the connectors on both ends of the cable (the MIB side needs to be plugged in rotated 90°) or buy an MIB 3 cable set: 2GD035736 Autoteile Dual Typ-C Schnittstelle Frontladestecker für VW ID6 Jetta 2019-2024T-Roc 2018-2024 https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExSqe7C The journey to our holiday destination went without any problems; it was about 400km. For people without a sound system, not much changes. In my Octavia 3 without a sound system, it can still be optimized with data sets, etc. However, if you have the internal sound system in your Seat, like me, you'll run into problems with the MIB3... the MIB3 only supports 8 channels, so my center speaker and subwoofer are non-functional. Existing sound systems in Skoda vehicles should be codingable in the MIB3 without any problems.

EA888.4 280 here. I went Racingline for TCU as I bought it along with Stage 1 ECU and I bought the dongle (PDM, not PCM) to self-remap which means as I progress with the tuning the additional maps are free. However, the TCU remap does involve a bit of mucking around as the shift points are right at inconvenient points for town driving and there aren't a bunch of features that TVS seem to include. If I was to do it all again, I'd go for TVS TCU Stage 2+. I haven't found anyone have a rubbish experience with their product although they were awful at getting back to me when I enquired direct - possibly some of that a language barrier. Best to just find a decent place that is a TVS dealer in Warsaw and let them do it all. TVS do an ECU so you could get a combo but I don't know how good that is.

With mine I went down d pillar, down side of seat back and along sill. It avoids the airbags. There’s a couple of good videos on YouTube about routing the wires. The first is a genuine camera so wiring itself is different but good for helping with routing wires AliExpress one doesn’t need coding or canbus wiring as it’s all built in to the quad lock adaptor. But hard reset the radio (press and hold power button until it restarts) once installed for it to work.

See you Sunday, at least it'll be cooler

Bravo Lee for the selfless sacrifice to save stuff from oblivion! 😁

Sorry Marc unable to email you, keeps bouncing back.

We bought a new 1.5 sportsline DSG 9 months ago. my comments are: my wife likes the sunroof but I am aware of the leak problems, we never actually open it but good for bird watching; the 19" wheels are ok with the DCC in comfort mode but very vunerable to curbing, I hate them; I have become aware that the 2.0 DSG is much more reliable; just back from driving in northern Spain and did not use the comfort mode, not needed as the roads are so smooth even in the Picos mountains, same in most of France; the matrix headlights are fantastic and easy to change the dipping when abroad, I hate to think of the cost if they go wrong.

The Caddy’s gearbox had been suffering from a slight oil leak for a while. As it is not used for significant mileage, and the rate of oil loss was so low, sorting it had been on my to do list for a long time without getting anywhere near the top of that list. When I discovered that one of the driveshafts was badly worn, the silver lining in that cloud had to be that I could sort the gearbox out. I have lost count of the number of times I have had the gearbox out of this Caddy since the transplant was done, although a check back though this thread would say that I am probably sitting at four or five times. On each of the previous occasions I have used my A-frame and hoist out on the driveway, but this time I was in the workshop, and using a transmission cradle on a trolley jack. The gearbox came out readily enough. One advantage of doing the job a number of times is that I am fairly efficient at it now. Rather than making any intelligent attempt to resolve the oil leak in that box, I was swapping it for another of the same spec. I have no real idea if the replacement box is any good, but fitting it and trying it on the road will certainly confirm either way. The leaky gearbox will be rebuilt at some point for future use. With the gearbox out of the way, I fitted an ABF flywheel to replace the TDi one, so I could use a nice new VR6 clutch. After my previous flywheel / clutch nightmare I bolted them together on the bench to confirm I had the right combination, before I fitted them to the pick-up. It may be that there is a technique which I am yet to master, but I did not find it easy to fit the replacement gearbox using the cradle on a trolley jack. After the above photo was taken I added some studding side rails to the cradle, and chained the gearbox loosely to it. That enabled me to offer it up to the engine at the required angle, and then manoeuvre it into place. Seeing it written like that makes it sound much easier than it was in practice. I was dreading having to specify the driveshafts. The build thread for the Felicia 1.8T which became the donor for this Caddy did have information about the driveshafts, but it was quite difficult to follow and some of it appeared to be inconsistent. That in combination with custom driveshafts not being cheap, and being scrap if I specified them incorrectly, had me fretting. I should explain that while I could have asked the supplier to simply copy the old driveshafts, one end of each shaft was not quite right, and the longer (offside) shaft when assembled was fractionally too long. After procrastination that was annoying even me, I worked-out the changes that I needed relative to the existing driveshafts, and labelled them ready to be sent off. Of the six companies I identified who may be able to make my driveshafts, just two came back with an affirmative response and an affordable price. I would have been equally happy to order from either of them, but I chose one, couriered the old driveshafts to them, and got the new ones six weeks later exactly as promised. It only occurred to me after they were ordered that the required driveshafts have the same ends as mk2 (6K) Ibiza parts, with a Golf inner end and Polo outer, although Ibiza shafts are not the right lengths. The new shafts arrived in bare metal, so I masked the ends and sprayed them with satin black from a rattle can. I thought about trying to assemble them with new CV joints myself, but I took them to JKM instead, and I was glad I did because the joints are very tight on the shaft splines. The inner joints are both the same part number from the same manufacturer, but one of them arrived in bare metal while the other has a black finish. Since the only way to see them both when they are fitted is to be underneath the Caddy, I am going to try not to stress about the fact that they do not match. Fitting driveshafts is not a job that I enjoy. The Caddy was on a scissor lift in my workshop, which is a significant improvement on having it on axle stands on a gravel driveway, but I still find it awkward, despite having done it many times. Maybe one day I will discover the knack I have been missing. Despite my trepidation, the nearside (shorter) shaft went on a treat, and then the offside shaft looked set to do the same. Both sides were bolted to the gearbox output flanges, which is the part of the job I like least, and the driveshaft hub nuts were on finger tight. All that remained was to torque these nuts, then stand back and admire my work. The nearside hub nut had read the script, and torqued-up without difficulty. Things were different on the offside. These nuts have to be very tight, and the offside one was close but not at the required torque when it suddenly went loose. This could be very bad news. The nut was now spinning freely, but was not moving on the CV joint thread in either direction. Apparently I had stripped the thread on the CV joint or the nut or both. For the avoidance of doubt, I had been using a torque wrench to tighten the nut, I had not been attacking it with an impact gun (yet). After a brief interlude of quiet contemplation (plus some swearing and a bit of panic) I realised the only way to resolve this required the driveshaft to come off again, so I got back underneath and unbolted the inner end. With the weight of the driveshaft supported on a bungee I (now) got the impact gun onto the hub nut whilst pulling the shaft away from the hub to get the nut to bite on the thread. This worked a treat, so I soon had the driveshaft on the workbench to inspect the damage. The thread inside the nut was a mess. This was a brand new nut which was supplied with the brand new CV joint it had been wound onto, and it had definitely not been cross-threaded. I suspect that it was a material rather than a manufacturing fault, which caused the thread to strip from the nut once it started to get tight. The thread on the CV joint, which was much more of a concern, had not escaped unscathed, but looked salvageable. Once I got it under the magnifier I could see that most of the apparent damage to this thread was where detached bits of the thread from the nut had lodged themselves on the shaft. I spent more than an hour carefully removing this swarf and cleaning the thread, until eventually I could wind a nut on and off the whole length without resistance. This was one potential set-back avoided. There was still another nagging doubt to be sorted. Was the problem with tightening the hub nut caused by me having specified the driveshaft incorrectly? This seemed unlikely to the point of being hard to see how it could, but until it was fitted to my satisfaction I could not completely dispel the doubt. So I shuffled underneath the Caddy again and bolted the inner CV joint back to the gearbox, then fitted another new nut to the end. This time it tightened just fine. I still need to drive the Caddy on the road to be 100% certain that its new driveshafts are good, but all the signs up to this point are positive, for which I am very relieved.

My e scooter has three 7 Ah 12v batteries so 21 Ah so by my maths that is 76 KJoules. But I could charge them outside if I had any concern. CAA say 100 Wh, or 2 grams of lithium, or to say 360 KJoules which sounds quite a lot. Even then the battery should be in safe packaging and have the terminals taped over. We do need to think about external storage and fire suppression measures. I see a small BESS burnt down in Exeter which is being investigated. No hint of any problems with my batteries or EVs.

Sorry for the delay. Mileage is 190k miles and it's due a 40k oil change soon. That's the only maintenance job I can't do myself so that's £200. The new hub was the cheapest first option. I've now had the car 16 years, it's been very reliable, and cheap to run, so I'll keep going with it a while yet. In any case, I don't think one could buy that level of cheap maintenance and reliability anywhere now.

Councils / Local Authorities banned Portable Bottled Gas fires in their properties decades ago. many issues with those, CO, Condensation, damp etc, as well as the fire risk. Storage batteries of different types / chemistry would be restricted, location requirements, proper ventilation, etc. No way can it be left as a free for all and do as you wish. Fire / Emergency services are concerned enough about e-bike / e-scooter fires with them being stored or charged in homes.

https://mib.plain.gg/

Thanks so much Alasdair. This feels like it’s a bit too pricey and has too many unknowns, so will keep looking.

Because it's Skoda fault I decided to raise a complain and hopefully they will respond. There is draft of the letter I will send recorded delivery tomorrow. [Your Name] [Your Address] [Your Phone Number] [Your Email Address] Date: 23 June 2026 To: The Head of Product Engineering & Executive Customer Relations Škoda Auto UK Customer Service Centre, PO Box 9004 Leeds, LS1 9WA FORMAL COMPLAINT: Systemic Matrix LED Headlight Software Logic Defect – Škoda Superb Mk3 Facelift (2019 Onwards) Vehicle Registration: [Your Car Reg] VIN (Vehicle Identification Number): [Your 17-digit VIN number] Model: Škoda Superb Estate/Hatchback Mk3 Facelift (FL) Dear Executive Relations Team and Technical Directors, I am writing to file a formal complaint regarding a significant, systemic software logic error affecting the Full LED Matrix headlight system on my Škoda Superb Facelift. This is not an isolated component malfunction or a localized physical hardware failure. Rather, it is an underlying factory programming defect embedded within the Volkswagen Group MQB platform architecture, specifically impacting right-hand drive (RHD) vehicles operating within the United Kingdom. [1] The Nature of the Glitch: When operating the vehicle with the headlight switch in the 'AUTO' position and the Dynamic Light Assist stalk activated, the Matrix LED system performs perfectly on standard A and B roads. However, the moment the vehicle enters a multi-lane dual carriageway or a motorway slip road, the left-hand traffic illumination profile instantly collapses. The software logic incorrectly commands the left-side matrix array to cut out its illumination completely, while simultaneously lifting the right-side lens array excessively high into the path of oncoming traffic. The Root Engineering Cause: This issue is caused by a communication conflict between the factory satellite navigation data tracking loop, the Front Driver Assistance Camera (Module A5), and the Central Electronics gateway (Module 09). The vehicle's GPS recognizes that it is entering a highway network but processes the lane geometry backward. The system defaults to a Left-Hand Drive (LHD) Continental European motorway matrix map. Consequently, it forces a beam pattern designed to look far down a right-hand curb, inadvertently blinding oncoming UK drivers across the central barrier while plunging the left-hand slip road gutter into darkness. Local Dealership Limitations: I have attempted to engage with local Škoda technicians regarding this matter. Unfortunately, dealership service departments are entirely dependent on looking for active Digital Diagnostic Fault Codes (DTCs). Because the headlight modules are electronically healthy and functioning precisely as they were programmed, the diagnostic computers show "No Fault Found." Technicians are currently unequipped to address underlying factory coding parameters without direct oversight from factory engineers. Safety Implications and Requested Actions: This issue is widely documented and heavily discussed within the global Škoda owner community (such as Briskoda forums), where countless owners of 2019+ Facelift models experience the exact same motorway masking behavior. Having the left-hand side of the road go completely dark on a high-speed motorway slip road is a severe safety hazard. Furthermore, blinding oncoming drivers across a central highway reservation violates UK road traffic safety expectations. As a dedicated Škoda owner, I am requesting that this matter be escalated directly to your Technical Support, Product Engineering, and Software Quality Assurance Teams at factory level. I am requesting that Škoda investigate this RHD navigation-override bug and issue a software correction or Field Campaign update to properly align the LHD/RHD orientation profiles inside Modules 09, A5, and 4B. I expect an official acknowledgment of this complaint within 14 business days, outlining the steps Škoda UK will take to escalate this to the product development team. Yours sincerely, [Your Signature] [Your Printed Name]

I took it to mean something like this https://ebay.io/m/ZSpU5C

@lol-lol The real issue with home storage batteries is the amount of energy they store is considerably higher per battery than all of your rechargeable torches, phones, laptops, tablets, etc. put together. This is why those with cars that are the subjects of safety recalls are often instructed to limit the amount of charge they hold and not to park or charge in a garage, underground car park or even near to other structures. The other devices you mention all store considerably less energy, and God forbid that they should catch fire; they will and do present a far lower threat level. Think of the stored energy as being tanks of petrol. Then think about a Zippo cigarette lighter, which typically holds around 8 ml of petrol/lighter fuel compared to a 1996 Renault 5 petrol car holding up to 43 litres of petrol; that is 5,375 times the amount of energy in a Zippo lighter, so which one would you think is going to be most dangerous in a fire? Would you store 43 litres of petrol inside your house? As to the balcony solar arrays you keep on about, forget what Milliband wants; they are highly likely to never be on sale here in the UK and hence would be illegal in the UK. The electrical industry is fighting them and citing them as being possibly dangerous and possibly deadly. They are not currently approved by the BSI, and in Milliband's desperation to make this happen, he has had a specification document written by the government, who are NOT qualified electrical experts. The insurance industry itself would more than likely also NOT honour any claim for any damage on property where these devices are installed / in use. So again, are you happy to shoulder the consequences? Should anything happen and your house be destroyed and maybe neighbours suffer as well if anything did happen and the insurance company dismissed any claim?

PM'ed

Hey @Tankdave I’ll take them. Am heading to Liverpool from SW London over the weekend so will detour to you on the way home and collect if that works?

Try this:- https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MfF4R7Jj_lDF7QyKjQwJm6syFkzt5Gr6/view

As you say, the glovebox does not appear to be listed separately. All I can suggest is try fuses: Interior lighting. Alternatively Interior lighting in front, microphone, operation of the sliding/tilting sunroof. Hope this helps.

@MonkeyBoy2283 The Skoda dealer is talking complete and utter nonsense on this point. Skoda haven't turned the feature off. Many of us had this issue and it required a software update from the dealer to resolve. I think it was the OCU that was the culprit but I can't be 100% sure as it was a few years ago I had this issue. Ask them what version the OCU is on your car. The current version is 0311, and that has started to be pushed to some cars over the air in recent months. The previous version, 0144 was also stable. If your car is at an earlier version, then they have not updated all the modules that they are supposed to as part of the Skoda Approved Used agreement. In fact the 0311 release notes stated that it was a required update to ensure continued online functionality going forward.

Customer of mine had a few 2wd second hand Yetis and never any problems. They were fairly hard on cars and were used for towing and general work. They bought a second hand 4x4 with supposedly good service history and had major problems with Haldex. They eventually sold it once it had been repaired.(new haldex control unit) and now have a Dacia which so far has been excellent. May have been a one of but unless there is any service history on Haldex I would avoid. I agree thats a high price for a 11 year old car. Also check road tax. My 1.6tdi octavia is only £35 where as my old 1.9tdi was £200. Neither are LEZ compliant. Alasdair

About the EU certificate, the unit is marked DIN EN 3, which is the harmonized European standard for portable fire extinguishers. Bulgaria accepts this standard as well. Greece requires a dry-powder extinguisher, minimum 2 kg, rated A/B/C and electrical up to 1000V, which this unit meets. It also marked as brand new factory unit “Neugerät” manufactured 2026. And it came with certification sticker for validness till June 2028, even thought Greek laws require FE re-certification every year. Looks promising, but hopefully, no confirmation from Greek laws will be required 🤣

Our dealer grabbed me the other day when taking our (wife's really) Karoq for service. In round numbers he was offering SEL for £30K and Sportline for £32K. I knew ours had dropped a lot in value - we bought it at 18mths old at the height of the Covid shortages, but for it to lose £14K in 3yrs is just horrible. As the car only does a few K miles per year I could lease one for less but wife doesn't fancy doing that. To my mind changing from one SEL to another doesn't give us anything, Sportline was nice, but I dread living with 19" diamond cut wheels. Sales guy said they'll be fine with DCC - but that just seems OTT on a Karoq. I'm nervous of the sunroof too - love them, but VW Group roofs have a habit of leaking or rattling, or both. Snag is my wife has got the idea of having a new car into her head and I've no idea what else we could look at - Karoq is such a perfect size, she won't even consider Tiguan as "too big".

Something that needs investigation after the car is repaired and brought home... ...Apart from seconds before total shutdown, the charging system warning light (red battery symbol) didn't appear (I'm told, I wasn't in the car). And when driving for a total of about 60 minutes with little or no alternator charging happening, with new battery reading (at ciggy lighter skt) as low as 12.1V at times, still no warning lights at all. My partner was frequently probing the cigarette lighter socket with multimeter probes as I drove back to where the vehicle is parked now. The reading varied up and down by a few hundred mV, mostly about 12.3V, never above 12.5V. Why did that not trigger the warning light for charging system?? The light does come on when ignition is switched on, so it's not a dead LED. VCDS scan done immediately on arrival at breakdown had lots of low voltage faults, obviously, including some modules reporting freeze frame T30 at about 11.5V. Will attach that scan tomorrow. I wonder what the threshold voltage is for 'battery light' to be displayed? Some advance warning seems wise, particularly as power steering assistance completely disappears when voltage drops too low. 🤔

It's not raining today, weird. Dropped the tail gate off because it's trying to blow out on the bottom edge and I don't want that to get worse, also will be WAY easier to repair off the truck. This gets us further away from MOT of course, because now I don't have a rear licence plate. Got some of the middle structure welded back in, so there's SOME strength in this back end of the sill. I'm not going to post a picture of what happened to my shoulder and neck, but molten steel is VERY hot and goes quite a long way into your skin, doesn't it? My bacon smells overdone, I think these tracks are going to be in my skin forever. I was wearing full overalls, welding mask, cap, and gloves; but the molten trickles are cleverer than me, I got got. sad face emoji. not to let that drama get the better of me I've started work on closing panels for the outer sill: I'll hold off welding that till I've made the one for the other side. Then it's just plating the inside of the arch and building a return for the end of the sill. I should be able to get my jack stand under THIS bit then, and repair the larger but simpler section which I can't get at right now because the stand is in the way. I'm happy to be making a bit of progress again anyway.

It's still happening across ALL VAG vehicles, the dealers know about it but the manufacturer couldn't care less. I've been driving Superb's for 13 years and loved every one, been great cars. My last Mk3 had the same system fitted and it worked really well, just a very occasional alert on adaptive cruise as I passed a car that had already turned left and it could be prevented by pressing the accelerator so I kind of got used to it My Mk4, which I've had for almost 12 months is a frightmare, WAY too sensitive in all manner of cases and goes into full collision mode ... Dash warning, alert sound, slams on the brakes and tensions the seat belts. On two occasions, I've had road rage incidents from the guy behind thinking I'd brake checked them as they nearly ran into me. The system is 100% dangerous and I've now got into the habit of turning it off, together with the lane assist, every time I get in the vehicle, an absurd thing to have to do as, when it works properly, as it used to, it's a massive benefit. I have an outstanding complaint filed with Skoda and VWFS (it's leased) but to say they couldn't care less would be an understatement and, if don't hear back from them in the next few months, I'll be taking it to the Financial Ombudsman to get off the lease without an exit fee and I'll buy something else. Really sad as, in every other way, the car is wonderful and I wanted to love it as much as the others but it really is dangerous. I can't believe that so many people are facing this issue (there's a class action lawsuit running in the US against VW for it) and the manufacturer aren't issuing a fix, it's only software and the sensitivity will be adjustable ... They just don't care! They may start to care as more lawsuits spring up however!

That i cant answer as the firmware i used is 02xx, with yours running 06xx its unlikely to work as it would be a downgrade. Clearly the creator of this firmware has coding ability and has edited out the 0628/0000 issue to create the upgrade from 0253

You have mib 4!!!!!

308 https://mega.nz/file/dgNAADwQ#h7p60yQb9OmM0pQ2O9nZvIPsi_k9TMnwOm83pBj3hmY 332 https://disk.yandex.ru/d/p21TSZ9mKJcTVQ

I have obviously made modifications to the Caddy to enhance its performance, and others to change the aesthetics, but I am struggling to think of one previously that has specifically been made with road safety in mind, although I have an example now. I think it is also the first instance of my reinstating a modification that had been in place when I bought the Caddy and which I had subsequently removed. My son had been driving behind the Caddy and told me afterwards that the brake lights were not as noticeable as they ought to be, in the absence of a high level centre brake light. Given that he knows that the Caddy has no centre brake light and was therefore conscious to keep an eye out, this made me think that less switched-on drivers could miss my braking altogether, with disastrous consequences. I liked the idea of mounting a brake light externally above the rear window, except that would mean drilling holes in the cab back, which I did not fancy much. I thought it would be much easier to find a universal brake light to stick inside the rear window, but actually it took me a while to find one, and I was not happy with the quality of the best one I could find. After deciding I did not want to use it, I spent a few more weeks scouring kit car parts sites and the like to try to find a better part. The problem was that so-called ‘universal’ internal brake lights are designed to fit to the sloping rear windows of cars rather than the practically vertical rear window on a pick-up. Eventually I found another brake light capable of swivelling on its mountings to accommodate mounting on windows of different inclinations, and which appeared online to be higher quality than the first light I bought. When the second one arrived it proved to be just a shorter version of the first, so that was a set-back. At this point I resigned myself to not being able to find a better part to use, and decided to try to adapt the ones I had already bought. There were three features of the brake lights which I was unhappy with: the cable was routed through the rotating mounting, so the mounting could not be moved to the required position without pinching it; the case and swivel mechanism were horribly flimsy; and the open design meant that light could leak out all over the place, which I thought could be distracting when driving. As well as this, the longer light had three LEDs which lit only intermittently, and whichever one I chose would need a 2-pin connector fitted to it. Taking the two lights apart was easily accomplished, which is an obvious advantage of the flimsy construction. The fault with the LEDs was due to the lead on a resistor not having been trimmed after it was soldered, so that it was shorting across the PCB. With the lights disassembled it was straightforward to pull the cable back through the hole in the mounting and feed it through a new hole drilled in the body of the light. After that I made the lights a bit more robust by drilling the ends for bigger flanged screws to replace the tiny countersunk ones they had originally. When I took the picture below I thought I had them finished, but subsequently I took the smaller light apart again and added some black tape along the sides of the light lens, and some similar tape over the ridiculous lettering on the side. Adding the wiring for the brake light was simply a case of taking the passenger interior sill trim off and splicing into the loom between the B-pillar and the grommet it passes through towards the rear. The new wires were run up behind the B-pillar trim panels and then fed between the headlining and the roof using a straightened wire coathanger. By this point I still had not decided which of the brake lights I should use. From an aesthetic perspective I preferred the smaller one, so I tried that one first to judge if it was big enough to be sufficiently visible. For the purpose of this check I attached the light to the rear window with masking tape. My initial impression was that it was fine, but before I committed I left it overnight to see if I felt the same way the following day, which I did, so the light was fixed properly with double-sided sticky pads. I would like to think that my new brake light installation is a tad more tasteful than what it had when I bought it.

When I fitted the mk4 Golf steering wheel into the Caddy I did not seriously attempt getting the centre horn push to work. I had got used to using a horn button on the dashboard, and given the (mostly self-inflicted) difficulty I had getting the wheel fitted, I had no reason for expecting that the horn push would be straightforward. Then one day I was in the workshop doing something else when I noticed that the gap between the rear face of the Golf wheel and the sprung horn contact might just be conducive to a simple fix. I had a standard Felicia wheel in the garage, and it took only a couple of minutes to remove the horn contact ring from that, and barely longer to size it up against the gap it needed to fit into and confirm that it looked about right. Good enough to take the wheel off and have a closer look. Both the Golf wheel and the Felicia contact ring have three unevenly spaced mounting holes, which looked as if they were at approximately the same spacing, but the holes are not on the same PCD so I could not simply bolt them together. All I had to do to get round this was to open up the holes on the wheel a little with a drill, and then use flanged screws to attach them together. With that done, in classic Haynes manual style, reassembly was a reverse of the process involved to take it apart. I retained the dashboard mounted horn button as well, partly because it was there already and there was nothing to be gained from removing it, but mostly because my eldest grandson likes to go in the workshop and sound the Caddy’s horn, using that button, so I definitely do not want to spoil his fun.

I had been chasing an intermittent fault on the Caddy for months. It would run perfectly, sometimes for ages, then it would lose power, often leading to the engine cutting-out altogether. Whether or not it would restart immediately was unpredictable too. My suspicion fell onto the fuel pump control circuit, and bypassing the fuel pump relay seemed to do the trick as a temporary fix for a while, but this also proved to be less than 100% effective. By this point I had decided there had to be two separate faults, unlikely though that seemed. I made-up a couple of test leads with LEDs so I could observe the function of the fuel pump relay control circuit from the driver’s seat, and this convinced me that the ECU control output was intermittent. The ECU now fitted to the Caddy is itself a replacement which I bought relatively cheaply off eBay a few years ago, so I thought I could easily get another. When I looked I found that the going rate has more than doubled since I bought the last one, and I was not keen to pay £300, so another solution was required. The ECU fuel pump control output is active for a short time when the ignition is switched on, then is deactivated until the ECU detects that the engine is running. Whilst the engine is running the fuel pump is energised constantly, then it is stopped once the engine stops, so that in the event of an accident which causes the engine to stop, the pump will not keep pumping petrol. This seems to me like a pretty desirable safety feature, so I wanted to retain this rather than simply install an override switch to keep the pump running whenever the ignition is on. The obvious solution (to me, at least) was to use an oil pressure switch output to provide the signal to indicate when the engine has stopped running, combined with a simple override to give the initial burst prior to starting. The Caddy has two oil pressure switches fitted, with the additional one feeding an LED located in the row of switches below the central heater vents, so it was straightforward to connect this additionally to a relay circuit to control the fuel pump. The photo shows the revised layout of switches in the dash centre, with the fuel pump override tell-tale LED (green) at the far right, next to the associated switch. The big red LED is from the extra oil pressure switch which I also use to feed the fuel pump control circuit. Inside the glovebox you can see another (green) LED which indicates when the fuel pump relay is energised. I had wired this when I was fault-finding the circuit, and I decided to keep it. It is not illuminated in this picture because I also have a security cut-out switch which was activated when the photo was taken. Having got a solution in place for the pump control circuit, attention now turned to the pump’s power supply. I identified a couple of connections I did not much like the look of, and rectified those, but still the problem persisted. Eventually I tested it with the fuel pump powered direct from the battery, but it still cut out. The pump itself looked like being the culprit, and as this was only a few months old it meant a trip to JKM who had supplied and fitted the Deatschwerks pump which had now failed. Apparently there have been a few recent instances of quality issues with these pumps, which is worrying as I have also installed one in my Ibiza. Jim swapped the failed pump for an APS unit, and after he had also found and repaired a dodgy connection it appears we have got this resolved. After I got the Caddy home I tried running it without my tertiary pump control circuit connected, and it duly misbehaved again, which confirmed that the issue had not just been the fuel pump itself, and the ECU output was (and is) also intermittent.

Real progress Once back together, it was treated to a liberal coating of stonechip