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Little update since i posted about my Superb 280 going stage 2 back in may. I have questioned the high torque figure ( 618nm) with the tuner and was assured that it's a safe map, ok i left it at that. Three days after remap, car starts burning oil without even being pushed hard. So i switched to thicker 5w40 Castrol Edge ( issue rectified) Week later i pinned it from traffic lights and car cut power after 5000rpm. Gear changes felt really rough and jerky. Questioned it with the tuner, got nowhere.... Then i found on here someone who had similar issues after going to stage 2 and they recommended speaking to Kalam at Russell Road & Racing. From start he was very helpful and informative. I decided to buy one of his dongles and run few logs for him. I was really unhappy when he run me through all the issues he found after my not so professional stage 2 remap.... 1- huge overboost in midrange that went beyond sensor capacity so we couldn't tell how much it was actually putting out 2- car running lean at certain scenarios 3- all the injectors were maxxed out to the point where one started dosing less than others 4- in other scenarios it was over fueling 5- LPFP wasn't configured properly and not providing adequate amount of fuel 6- during overboost it would loose traction in 3rd gear So yeah it hasn't been greatest of experiences and i would certainly advise anyone to do a proper research and before they give their pride and joy to some amateur who doesn't know what they doing. Luckily nothing serious happened to my superb while having the original map. Kalam has provided me fresh ECU and TCU files then with few more updated calibration maps the car is running sweet as anything, power delivery is smooth and linear, no rough upshifts or downshifts, no overheating. Best £431 spent so far 💪🏻 Old power output 390bhp and 618nm New figures after few tweaks some major some minor 405hp 550nm Also added some pops and burbles switchable by driving mode ( this is a first version of pops, they have now been brought down a bit to more OEM sound )VID_20260703_180850~4.mp4

But you have to remember how difficult and energy sapping it is for some to flick that switch with a single finger, I recall my early days of thumping the bodywork to get the semaphore indicators both out and back in

No surprise there at all, electric should dominate, certainly on the hill climb, but speed is not the only thrill factor at play which is why so many electric performance cars have fake sounds in their speakers to replicate the missing ingredient.

Now more common Adverts saying 500 miles and plus range. eg Volvo EX60. £56,860-£70,360. Lease deals currently around £720 a month. If 400 miles is achieved without even trying that is pretty damn good. 4 miles a kWh, 100 kWh @ 7 pence a kWh, £7.00 to go 400 miles.

There is no dash indication for AC refrigerant level, you have to use a diagnostic tool to check the pressures before and after the compressor with the AC on.

It would not be a 'Recall' Unless vehicles were being 'Recalled' or Keepers notified. it would be a TPI or TSB. Technical Product Information or Technical Service Bulletin.

Hi, I live down in Cornwall with a 2021 Skoda Octavia. Im hoping to find out interesting stuff answers for keeping the car running sweetly!

Hi Everyone, My name is Sam and I recently acquired a 2017 Superb 206TSI Sportline in Carrida Red. I am happy to not only have this beautiful car but to also join this community!

i was under the impression that Lane Assist "pulls you back" into your lane if you unintentionally drift out of your lane, so if you intend to cross into another lane and indicate before starting to move into the next lane it will allow you to complete the manovure

Yeah i was only there for two weeks and found that company that tune cars so I've asked him to order downpipe and tune it but when the part arrived it was straight and wouldn't fit my car. Probably like you say, steering rack or something in the way...

Someone @MarioVrs mentioned…

Further update: The Kamiq went in for investigation on 30th June. Verdict was "requires clutch pack adjustment as TP1 & workshop manual." Inspection report said 'covered under warranty'. However, today 13th July VW Warranty have told me that this will not be covered as it is an adjustment, not a fault being repaired. They will need the car for a week to remove the gearbox and the cost is in the region of £3k. The fact that this same Gearbox warning appeared last Sept and they replaced an oil pressure valve is irrelevant! The service staff at the dealers are being very helpful and I appreciate that it is not their decision. I am going to challenge this. Even if I pay up there's no guarantee that it won't happen again.

We've optimized our Kodiaq with the 1.5 TSI engine. Approximately 35 Nm more torque and approximately 30 hp more power. That's now "acceptable".

Mercedes are very prone to that sort of behaviour, along with showing no codes at all, when they have a failing EGR valve. Although, if you’re considering handing it back, then just do so without dragging your hurt on any further.

Just thought I’d update this thread. About 2 weeks ago the car would not start. System gave an error “48v Supply. Don not drive off” Car checked by a Skoda dealership and they are recommending a new alternator. Looking into this a bit further the alternator for the 48v can cause “jumpy” brakes 🤷🏻‍♂️ Part being replaced this week… fingers crossed this resolves the horrible braking in the Skodiaq!

It could be a MAF,02 sensor or crank sensor or perhaps high pressure fuel pump etc. No real way of telling until it gets scanned for codes. Hope its a simple fix. What colour is the smoke from exhaust. Alasdair

Maybe try some E5. Lots of rubbish fuel about since the 'Military Action' in Iran. Everyone will be looking for Software Updates now. I Love 'Skoda Secret Service Service Campaigns'.

I'm in Slovakia. The ECU software update was performed by the dealer, but I'm not sure if it was related to a specific TPI/TSB. Ambient temperatures have ranged from around 15°C up to 40°C, and the issue has occurred in both cool and hot weather. The spark plugs and air filter were both replaced about two weeks ago, and I always use E10 fuel.

Excellent. We have both! I have superb tdi 190 and the wife has 1.5tsi kodiaq. Kodiaq is SE model so basic spec and engine is a bit underpowered but it’s perfectly Comfortable for family road trips. We are headed to south west France in it in a fortnight.

Yes i saw the option to become a paying member. If the wife agrees to let it go we'd absolutely to that. Thank ypu for your reply 👍

Great pointer i was also tjinking of leboncoin....many thanks 👍

When I go on a longish trip, that is exactly how I see many EV's being driven: tailgating large trucks, sitting in their slipstream and thus broadcasting that they are prioritising range over time. That spot, however, is also the most dangerous position to be in; they risk being crushed between the truck they're tailgating and the one behind should the front one become compromised. I accept that in the case of reps, that is how they drive because of time constraints.

I would highly recommend “Quicksilver 2-4-C marine grease”. The only grease I use on my boat and for trailer bearings - after trying many brands/ types years ago. It will stick well, remain flexible and repel water on the towball pivots, maybe a little messy putting on by hand as theres no spray can version.

go by your bladder range - how far can you drive without stopping? I say bladder but it might also be fatigue or hunger. If you look at my you tube channel www.youtube.com/@enyaq_gorm you will see older videos where I tested my enyaq 60, I have also tested the Elroq 60. Now I have an 85 after 3 hours driving from Edinburgh to Lancaster the battery usually goes from 90 to 40% and I need to stop - the car can go further but that 3 hour point is about my limit as a driver. Buy a car that will go for 3 hours and then you can charge

Just a reply, there is a 20 post qualification thing as an anti-spam measure before you can PM a member. You should be able to now.

First of all, let me start by saying this was neither quick nor easy. My factory Canton subwoofer finally gave up, and my first thought was: “How hard can it be to replace a speaker?” Turns out… very hard. The OEM subwoofer is a 165 mm dual voice coil speaker with 2 x 8Ω impedance, which immediately limits your options. There simply aren’t many replacements available. After quite a bit of searching, I found what seemed to be the best match: Audio System CO 06 D8 EVO Loudspeaker DatabaseAudio System CO 06 D8 EVO - 6.5″ Subwoofer 2x8ΩFull technical parameters and comparison: Audio System CO06D8EVO 6.5″ Subwoofer 2x8Ω · Xmax 7mm · Resonance 59Hz · Power handling 240W · Sensitivity 80dBUnfortunately, Audio System told me they didn’t have any in stock. After emailing them, I found out the only remaining stock was in Poland. Luckily, I have a friend there who ordered it for me and then shipped it to Romania. If you don’t have Polish friends… well… you might be SOL. Eventually the speaker made its journey from Germany to Poland, Poland to Poland, then Poland to Romania. Then came the next challenge… Removing the enclosure Getting the subwoofer enclosure out of the boot on the sedan is an absolute pain. I practically had to dismantle half the rear of the car, including removing the rear seats. I don’t know if it’s easier on the Estate, but on the sedan it definitely wasn’t a fun job. The mounting problem Once the new speaker arrived, I discovered what many of you probably already know. The mounting holes don’t line up. While searching for solutions, I found this Reddit post from someone who had already done the swap: https://www.reddit.com/r/skoda/comments/1r0vhlb/superb_mk3_canton_subwoofer_update/ His solution works, but it’s a bit of a “make it fit” approach. Personally, I’m the kind of person who likes things to look professional (read it as I’m very particular about these things) whenever possible. So naturally I thought… “I’ll just design and 3D print an adapter.” I’d never opened Fusion 360 before. How hard could it be? …yeah. Thankfully ChatGPT walked me through the whole process step by step, and after a lot of trial and error I ended up with an adapter that fits both the enclosure and the new speaker. I’ll happily share the STL/Fusion files if anyone wants them. If you’re better at CAD than I am, feel free to improve the design. https://www.printables.com/model/1776566-skoda-superb-mk3-subwoofer-flange Gaskets and damping I also bought some EVA foam sheets to use as gaskets between the adapter and the enclosure. Since I had plenty left over, I lined parts of the inside of the enclosure as well. I can’t say exactly how much difference it makes, but it certainly can’t hurt. One final tweak The only thing I couldn’t confidently model before printing was the exact position of the new speaker mounting holes. So I simply drilled those by hand once I had the printed adapter fitted in place. Final thoughts Was it worth it? I’d say yes. It took far longer than I expected, but I’m pretty happy with how it turned out, and it looks much cleaner than simply forcing the speaker to fit. I’ll be installing it today or tomorrow, and I’ll update this thread once I’ve had a chance to listen to it. I’ll also attach some photos of the process and the finished adapter in case it helps someone else down the road. Later edit,... seriously? 25.76 kB for file attachments?!?

Your post was automatically hidden for manual approval because it contained 'VIN' in the wording. It's now unhidden.

Goodwood festival of Speed over for another year. Fastest times up the hill this year. McMurray did not run again this year. Lots of ICE cars making lots of noise but not going that quickly. Quickest cars may surprise. (Spoiler, not ICE cars but what you possibly did not want to see, or hear)

Thanks for the dremel idea. I have tool and discs ....a steady hand required!

^^^ Not how i see newer BEV,s being driven thankfully. Reps have places to be and people to see.

As we saw in that Johnny Smith video, life in the slow lane: everyone else is overtaking and getting to their destinations quicker.

It never is, as far as I know.

Hardly a normal usage scenario ...

Hi, I drove over 2,600 km (~1600 miles) last week, 80% of it on the motorway at a good pace (without breaking the law) and in few traffic jams too. I kept a close eye on the coolant and oil temperatures given the intense heat and I was really happy to see that they remained rock-solid. The cooling system seems well-sized. I did notice a significant difference compared to my old TDI 190, however. With the TDI 190 in my ex. Superb Estate Mk3, the oil temperature hovered around 100–103°C during normal driving, whereas the TDI 200 in my "Blue Bear" runs closer to 112–115°C. The elevated driving position is great, acceleration is punchy, and comfort is good (though not quite on par with my ex Superb Mk3), even with the DCC system. The ventilated seats are a nice bonus in this hot weather. Plus, the SUV profile and higher ground clearance give me peace of mind when I have to drive across a field. Something I do occasionally for the leisure events I attend, where parking is often in a field (though I’m not looking to go hardcore off-roading. it’s not a dedicated 4x4 rock-crawler, after all). All in all, I’m happy with my purchase (73000km and 4.5 years ont the clock at this time).

@MarioVrs Absolutely love that exhaust stack!

Oops pressed send in error. It was quite amusing because a man came in a quite short truck. He couldn't get my car fully on the back. He got back in to try to move it forward and ended up ramming into the back of the trailer cab. I watched this from my window. He had to strap it tightly down as it was almost hanging off the back. He drove off very slowly.

Front brake disc diameter is 280mm. If you are interested, I can re-post the front brakes info I gleaned from TeflonTom's Felicia 1.8T transplant thread, plus what I have since discovered for myself.

You need the ATE callipers as fitted to the Mondeo V6 1998-2000. I do not know whether they fit under 14" wheels, the smallest I have tried is 15".

LEAF Mk 2 is / was a C segment car, unlike the Zoe which was B segment. The two versions 39 and 60 kwh versions. I tried to order / buy the 60 kwh but it was in short supply, long order delay. 60 kwh version has / had a 240 mile WLTP range and a buffer of around 10 miles below 0% Went for the 52 kwh Zoe and did not regret it despite it only being B segment size. Zoe has done well over 400 miles in hyper miling exercise.

How many EV chargers or hubs are near these routes / diversions? Get an unexpected 100 mile or more diversion in Scotland or maybe other parts of the UK because of road closures be it in adverse weather or just accidents and you really can be stuck, and be in areas without Radio / Mobile phone reception and poor GPS / Sat Nav or car screens / apps that are hopeless. People used to these types of regions may know what to expect, visitors / tourists can be really in a panic.

Now, back to the main thrust of this topic, electric cars. I see people commenting on how good the Chinese electric cars are, knowing personally just how poor some Chinese products can be after spending most of my working life in the electrical industry (I had a few years lorry driving across the UK). I see no reason to change my suspicions that things are not quite what they seem to be. I have seen content from independent motoring journalists and vloggers alike who refuse to attend Chinese car launches and other such events because they are not free to say what they want, regardless of if it is positive or negative; they are controlled events. I like Johny Smith and the Late Brake Show, but he did one of these, and the video of it is here. It has since been mentioned on both the JayEmm on Cars channel and also the Geoff Buys Cars channel; here Jay addresses the problem head-on and fully explains just why he flatly refuses to get involved in such events unless he is free to give his honest opinion about the cars. Geoff also refuses to take part in any such staged events as he wants to present his honest opinions.

I'm going to disagree with the VW bashing a bit. 7 years ago my Wife, driving a GTi, was momentarily distracted and missed a car slowing to execute a right turn. The cars collision avoidance worked exactly as it should. Again my wifes 5 year old Golf R has range adjustment on the ACC to avoid the severe speed up or slow down that can occur if you set the detection distance to the shortest. It makes for very smooth motorway driving. I always try to remember this stuff is all "assistance" it's not a substitute for driving properly. It's essential to get a calibration on all assistance system you are happy with or if you can't live with a particular system then turn it off. Yes, I know some default to on and you have to manually deactivate on each engine start but it takes seconds.

10 seconds of cranking...must be a half decent battery still unless it was cranking very slowly

Your post reminded me to check mine as it's not been used since 2019. When I last put it away I sprayed white lithium grease around the rotation mechanism and after some gently wiggling today it came loose whilst I held the handle fully out. I've dowsed it with lithium grease again and that's made it much easier to move and it drops straight away when the handle is pulled. I used to use the grease for the caravan as it's non-sticky and doesn't attract dirt. Hope you get it sorted and as @leolito says - lube it now and again.

I went ahead and checked the wiring to the ecu plugs and I never even noticed the very difficult to read cavity numbers engraved on the side of the plugs. After checking the wiring and pin numbers against the plug side pinout sheet I had been using it turns out I had wired them differently to what they should be with the majority of the connections being made on the black half of the plug instead of the white side. After correcting that cruise control is now working lovely along with the correct bits being flipped when checking the counter using block 066 in vcds. Thanks so much guys

The invoice is in the post..................

The quality of the Trackslag is 2nd to none and I highly recommend it.

Yes it’s true. The facelift removed the actuator (there are no fake sounds) and added a sports exhaust which sounds quite good for a stock system (bearing in mind EA888s don’t really ever sound very good). There is a subtle pop on the overrun in sports mode

Yes yes we get 99ron or 95ron in Jersey. I always used 99 since i had the car, mapped or stock. If i go away to Germany or Austria i always use Shell V-power💪🏻💥 not cheap but hey...smiles per gallon+ it's better for the car

It would show 90c from cold. First day of extended crank I did not notice it as it started and I hadn’t picked up on it. No codes of any description. Second day from cold I was looking for a fault, so caught temp gauge, but ran through all other scenarios anyway to rule them out. Had to wait for sensor to arrive as not in stock, so picked up on oil temp and battery charging conditions as I was poking out of interest to see what other areas the sensor effected without alerting most folks to the fact there was actually a fault. Also no fast idle or warm up sequence as module thought vehicle was already at running temp the entire time. You would think the system should have a redundancy to verify the coolant sensor, as it does have the use of the radiator outlet temp and oil temp sensors which could be used to determine a fault, but none seem to be built in.