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A few trips only of the length you describe may very well not restore the battery charge sufficiently, given the predominant use. Unfortunately, the smart charging alternator strategy does not appear to recognise intermittent vehicle use and adapt the strategy to bring battery SOC to a higher level - overriding strategy seems to be fuel saving. IMO, current VAG smart-charge strategy can lead to increased plate sulphation through persistent low SOC unless the vehicle gets regular long runs along with substantial energy micro-recuperation. My Octavia has a similar use to yours and I use a Ring smart charger occasionally to maintain battery health. I do this at 2-monthly intervals during winter - and approx. 4 to 6-monthly intervals during warmer part of the year (whenever SS stops operating consistently) Works for me as my 10-year old Moll EFB still tests at almost 90% healthy.

get a new battery delivered to your door (tayna.co.uk) and the basic version of OBDeleven 3 (£72.89) to give the battery the right code. Job done All from the comfort of your own driveway... happy days... no more problems.... (and get a Ctek charger to maintain it - use the negative post on the bulkhead to charge)

Provided that all vehicle modules are in sleep mode, 12.1 V standing voltage is about 55% SOC - I'd be very surprised if a genuine battery condition test, properly applied, would give a 'good condition' health report on a battery in that state!

Trying to get the SOC back up by driving the car, especially with the present smart charging is not a great idea IMO and just a waste of fuel The family, Jan 2026 Polo,only seems to keep the SOC around 72/74% and a round trip last May dropping someone off at the Airport bears out the very low charging rates. The average charging ignoring engine off time and starting load was ~ 3.9A at 13.51V and, even after 23 miles the charging rate was less than 4A on overrun at 14.8V (SOC still only 72%). However, I will let it soldier on, the other 7.5 year Polo now passed down the line previously operated almost the same as this one and if I can get 8+ years out of the battery in both I will be happy enough I think, stop/start always works when requested so perhaps running at ~ 70% SOC isn't that such of a disaster after all?. LOG-261C10532-logged Airport Battery Data2 74%.xlsx

SOC stands for State of Charge. Also, If ASS is not available when it should be then the symbol will still display but with a line through it.

Parked up at the supermarket this afternoon... ... which means I've averaged ~15,000 miles/year for each of the last five years 😳

The prob appears to be the front offside abs sensor, of which i have one in my garage, just need to find and fit it!

I have great news! The issue was caused by a defective oil pressure control valve (N522) that measured an incorrect electrical resistance (0.8 Ohm). After replacing the valve, the fault code is completely gone and the car operates normally.

Cracking prices. Use to be ASDA as well guaranteed to be several pence cheaper but now only Cosco and a few independent ones substantially cheaper. They say there is no cartel but it looks like one with a few garages actually breaking out with higher prices not lower ones. Looking forward to a trip to Cosco with one of the kids who has a car though they are the ones who have just change main vehicle from Caddy to Buzz but they also have a petrol Fabia and Toyota 2+2 cars so only started tge transition today.

Twin sports cats look to have come a bit loose 😸 Gaz

I'd like to thank all who have responded to the thread with their experiences and suggestions. I've had ASS on my previous 2 vehicles, both KIAs, and it worked most of the time dependant on engine and external temperatures. I've only being doing short local journeys since purchase, but had a couple of longer trips (20 mile each way) which I would have thought would have charged the battery to it's ASS working criteria. I've reported the issue to Cinch who are sending a mechanic out next week to investigate. I'll report back on the outcome.

Get them to swap the battery for a known good one/new one. There a garage so I assume they will have access to a battery to swap. If it doesnt cure problem then you can rule out battery. If it does tell them your keeping new battery. A new battery would have been cheaper than a dealer checking car. Alasdair

Reading this I keep saying under my breath, Battery, battery, battery!....As above, many of us have experienced it, your electrickery issues are less likely to be the car, more likely the battery. Start with a good one and keep it on trickle if the car isn't used for a decent drive daily. Also ensure the car is locked overnight to properly shut down the power sapping systems otherwise they'll drain the battery quicker than dyno-rod if it sits around.

Not much to report. A few thousand faultless* miles so far. Had it in the UK in July, 35°c , air con cold as ice and getting unbelievably good fuel economy. Wasn't too long after getting it all back together so was a bit nervous but it drove flawlessly. Few small things I managed to sort. New bushes for the shifter in the cabin, one from the SDi originally. Tightened it up some more. Also found a "6 speed" knob on Amazon so snagged it. Was only 15 or so quid. It's basically the more modern VW gear knob with a boot to suit a mk2 fabia, it looks standard and considering it actually is a 6 speed now, fits perfect. My old 5 speed one was in bits this ages. Got a new set of spotlamps too, my old halogen ones were in bits this while, treated myself to a set of led spotlamps. Fit well and came with their own wiring loom. Now has a switch in the dash as well as coming on via high beam. Some disassembly required. Also replaced the fan resistor with one from a parts car. It hadn't worked on "1" in a year or so. Did a track day start of Sept at mondello. Car felt great, was able to stay out for much longer at a time and the new sway bars and other changes have made a pretty major improvement to how it felt on track. Without compromising too much on driving it every day. Gearbox felt much better suited to task than the 5 speed. Feels like Its finally where I've always wanted it to be. Still many much faster cars on track. One thing I only noticed recently with the colder weather coming in, it was struggling to get up to temp, staying mostly around 65-70°, heat wasn't great and would cause the coolant temp to plummet further. Should have realized at mondello when it wasn't getting past 90°c. So thermostat most likely, have one from darkside ready to go. Seems a bear to do in situ, and probably something I should have done when it was in pieces a few months back. Not doing big miles currently so not relying on it. Had to replace a CV boot a few months back but sounds like a joints about to go. Really wish the shaft I got when I was doing all was good, would save me a lot of hassle.

Ask what device was used for test and request they show you the test printout.

I have a Kodiaq with 18 inch wheels on Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons and they seem good but they've only been on a few months so I haven't used them in bad weather or snow yet. Previously I'd had Michelin Cross Climates on an Octavia 4x4 and they were excellent and would have been my first choice for the Kodiaq but the Goodyears were significantly cheaper

On my 25 Sportline 1.5 DSG it displays in the middle screen when I have MPG showing, this is in normal mode, hope this helps.

When it comes to selecting parts - it’s check, check and check again. Do not rely on the make and model selection on the website. Autodoc presented brake disc sizes for all models even though they confirmed my model. Progressive Parts (and others) list my engine as CJXA/DNFE when they’re the EA888 Gen3 and Gen4 with differences. The Superpro Lower arms TRC1070 are advertised as applicable to basically every car made by VAG, yet they’re only applicable for Golf/Octavia. Because the Superb has a much wider track, as does the Audi RS3 which is suggested too. Turns out the MQB chassis which is the MQB chassis is not the MQB chassis. It’s MQB-A0 (Fabia) MQB-A1 (Golf/Ovtavia) MQB-A2 (Q2, Ateca, Tiguan) and MQB-B (Superb, Passat). Nuances like that really make a difference.

There’s also spareto but I’ve bought some lower arms from there recently and then got a bill from DHL for import taxes that wasn’t really announced.

One thing I learnt recently is to not let the battery get too low as it can cause issues, primarily with the airbag module. I had a period of use that involved lots of short trips which let the SOC drop, next thing there was an airbag warning. Turns out that the low battery caused a fault with the module and it needed to be replaced as it was essentially bricked, I know in some countries there are places that can restore the modules but I'm not sure if we have any in new Zealand. My car was only a few months out of warranty and the dealer wanted to charge circa $2000 for the new module, when I made them aware that this was a known issue on MQB platform cars and that I thought they should go to Skoda for a goodwill warranty they coughed and spluttered a bit but agreed to talk to Skoda who thankfully came to the party. It seems in this market at least, Skoda ship the vehicles with the cheaper and less efficient EFB style of battery when they really should have AGM batteries. I'm still on the original battery but will definitely upgrade to an AGM when this one starts to go downhill, it still tests OK but at over 5 years I'm guessing it doesn't have too much life left in it. Like @Warrior193 I now put the car on a battery tender occasionally or if it's not being used for some time. So far, so good and FWIW I don't use ASS, it gets turned off as a matter of course before every drive.

I’ve never heard anyone comment on the DSG changing gear at high revs usually the comment is it changes too soon and they use Sport mode to hold on to lower gears for longer. I don’t suppose you are in Sport rather than Drive?

Ours displays in normal mode, that's a 1.5 DSG. Don't set it to any other mode except sport by tapping lever backwards.

On my 25 with Columbus, it only displays in Eco mode.

Who wants to drive around in 5th gear at such low speeds .it’s not good for the car when driving around try and keep it around 1700 rpm you will get better mpg

As I said, I also believe it is the relay coming on and off for the 48v battery. My dealer in the UK fully charged both batteries, and it did not do it for about two weeks until, of course, the battery charge got low due to the poorly designed/coded services and useless regenerative braking system in the car, it now clicks all the time again.

Having had similar problems, they seem to come and go depending on usage. The "regenerative braking" is nonsense; it barely works. This adds to the battery's woes, along with poorly designed systems that drain the battery. I have recharged with a CTEK and NOT had the issues return for a few weeks. So, I'm also leaning towards: Poor equipment and firmware draining the battery Poor charging systems Poor electrical power management Insufficient (due to emisions/saving money/poorly designed) drivetrain needed to service all these newfangled systems I've also had my 2025MY MkIV Sportline 1.5TSi e-TEC, back to the dealer, where they performed "a significant software update" that they felt would "resolve the issues with the electronics and driveability" - well... it felt so at pick-up but not really anymore, adding more weight to the battery being the source of these issues. Additionally, after a year of ownership (from new), we now have the dreaded shuddering under load and gear change, which used to disappear once warmed up, now seems to be a permanent "feature" along with the shoddy braking system. Interestingly, we hired a Fabia whilst away recently, and we nearly broke our necks when the brakes actually worked!

If you fancied a trip down the M11 with a few litres of brake fluid then I'd do the ABS bleed with you. I live in Ilford, NE London. Your choice if you want to pop by. All that would cost you is the brake fluid and the petrol.

A prime example of how the lack of forethought and planning will always bite you on the bum is because we have numpties running the show who, through their process of chasing an idealistic dream and goal, have clearly demonstrated that no matter how noble the end goal is, you must always plan for the worst-case scenario. Part of that planning is in decommissioning the wells in the North Sea. For those that were supplying Grangemouth, we failed to put in place an agreement with those countries that we granted licences to for the extraction of oil that we, the UK, should have an automatic access to the finished product in sufficient quantities, alongside the countries doing the extraction and processing, at market rates. If the US can ban the export of finished products, so can other countries, and if that happened, we would be up **** creek without a paddle, and that includes all of those with EVs, as we still need access to oil, and that will always be the case, and about 99.9% of everything that we all take foregranted in the shops, hospitals, DIY sheds, etc., all got there via roads and using diesel. On the other hand, common sense might suddenly spring back to life, and the illegal war be stopped, and everything return to normal again, about the same sort of chance as winning the jackpot on the lottery. This could well turn out to be the perfect storm and could be far more catastrophic than the problem of climate change, even though everyone is actually living a longer life than our predecessors ever did.

Same message I had. I was in France and the temperature was high 30s I have used OBD11 to enable me to see oil, coolant an gearbox temperatures, with the latter often in the 90s. The fault message however appeared when the car was started from cold.

25 years of the Superb Škoda StoryboardKing of space and long-distance travel: Škoda Superb cele...The modern Škoda Superb has been on the market for 25 years. A symbol of comfort, spaciousness and technical sophistication, it has won over almost 1.8 million customers and continues to attract new o

I have a Seat Virtual Cockpit on the bench with MOST and inactive Component Protection. The immobilizer doesn't matter in this case. I'd be happy to test it.

Berwick and Edinburgh.

That’s very good of you and happy to do that I would want the exhaust cut out with no towbar

This rarely works on my vrs - new from Jan, 10k now on the clock. I'd say I do decent mileage, at least to charge the battery sufficiently. Work is 20 miles away, never seems to come on then randomly at weekends maybe on short journeys. Combine it with auto-hold and it's not exactly a smooth motion when it does decide to work.

In case anyone is interested in how this was resolved. I read that on the 4x4 saddle tank the secondary pickup on the LHS drains the left side of the fuel tank first, once that’s empty it drains the RHS. LHS is just a pickup & a float sensor while the RHS has a pump and another float sensor. The tank was only registering a drop in level after about 200 miles indicating it was the LHS that was at fault. So after a couple of false starts I sourced the correct parts. I got the RHS float sensor from Skoda for about £110, part number 3Q0-919-673-K, I figured I may as well change it at the same time. I could only get the whole LHS assembly, I picked one up on eBay for £100, part number 3Q0-919-098-B I also invested in a fuel pump ring removal tool which made life a lot easier than using a chisel to get the pumps out. LHS side first, I popped the pickup unit out and just unclipped the whole thing from the hose and replaced it with the new one. On the other side I just unclipped the float sensor, popped it out and replaced it making sure the wires were rerouted the same way. On opening up the suspect float sensor the pickups were very worn and was showing intermittent resistance so definitely where the fault was coming from. On the plus side the fuel gauge appears to be working properly again.

Seen by caffyns today. It needs a new part, which is one that needs the exhaust removing for access! Booked for 13th October. i will try to get a look at the removed part, and a photo if possible.

The BMS (Battery Management System) only charges the battery to around 80% - to allow some headroom for micro regenerative braking (weird but true!).

https://github.com/harman-f/mhi2_altscreen_carplay Working POC examples. Google Maps Apple Maps Waze Maps

Suggest buying a DVM (digital Volt Meter) and plugging it into the cabin power point, permanently if not being used for anything else, and monitoring the voltage while driving normally, coasting etc. If the battery SOC is up around 80% then the DVV will show 14.5/14.8V on overrun and ~ 13.0/13.6V with accelerator pressed, if the SOC is down around 75% then its more than likely that the charging rate is 14.5/14.8V under all driving conditions. My over 7.5 year old Polo petrol 65BHP (Original) battery SOC has often been down around 75% but stop/start never failed to operate any time I care to use it. The max SOC is 85%. VCDS 10Friday,05,June,2026,10:45:58:555 42,715 kms/26,542miles. IDE01834 Battery voltage 12.193 V IDE01836 Battery current -4.950 A IDE01839 Battery charge status 77 % IDE01841 Battery internal resistance 7.6 mOhm IDE01842 Usable battery charge 28 Ah IDE01948 Battery internal resistance not normed 6.0 mOhm IDE07681-MAS06086 Battery total charging throughput-Total re-charge 3890.7 Ah IDE07681-MAS06087 Battery total charging throughput-Entire energy throughput 4091.0 Ah Battery Capacity 59AH.

Even with regular long trips, the battery will frequently not get charged to 100% due to the Smart Charging system reserving battery capacity for regenerative charging.

I’ve just taken delivery of a Reiger diffuser valance. You’re welcome to the standard one that I’m taking off. Seeing as I’m changing my rear bumper (driven into) I’ve actually got 2 - one off my bumper with cutout for dropdown towbar, and one off the donor bumper with no cutout. Just as an option if you wanted to retain the standard look.

I'd strongly recommend getting the battery fully charged and properly tested before replacing it - and test the alternator output.

Mine does it too and according to my main stealer it’s because the car isn’t used enough to keep the battery fully charged. Bear in mind these days that even if the car isn’t used just sat there it will have something somewhere using a bit of power. I just give mine a 20 to 30 min run every couple of weeks

What type of use does this car get - is it mainly used for short runs? There isn't normally a lot of headspace between the battery SOC level that the smart charge alternator maintains and the SS cut-off level, plus SS won't be available if one, of at least 6-8, operation parameters are not met.

Charging the battery: if this helps only temporarily, replace the battery regardless of age or mileage.

Not in the UK it doesn't. Putting on the indicator simply tells the system you intend to move lane, and it temporarily deactivates the Lane Assist and Travel Assist combination.

Once you locate the correct parts Location can be important as far as getting delivery. EU, Non EU including UK, Rest of World outwith Europe.

With simpler old cars you get away with a poor battery but modern electronic systems are very sensitive to voltage drop. A low battery can cause all manner of problems. Hope a new one cures the problem. Alasdair

I would definitely test your battery, just cos it should be ok doesn't necessarily mean it will be

Hi guys if someone can help me with solve this errors in telematic modulke please help. i got this 2 errors when i buy my karoq and reseted mib to default settings because of primary user. I did go to skoda dealership and they said that they can solve problem with updates. Later i found guy that code cars with more options and he updated mib to newer version but nothing happend. Still can't change user on mib and when it pressed it says that function is not available at this time. Any solutions? TY