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No worries; I also bought McGard 28025SUB which are 41mm long locking wheel bolts that fit. Standard length is 27mm so these are more like 14mm long rather than 11mm but I tentatively tried them as suggested and there was no fouling behind the hub. I would still just test each wheel (spin slowly when still jacked up) just in case (my experience at the mo is that nothing goes to plan)

So I recently bought a mk2 Octavia VRs so that I can spend some time on getting the car exactly how I want it and I’m getting there mechanically. My next thought is the underside of the car as it is now 15 years old and I really want to keep this car long term I want to start looking at protecting it. I jacked her up and had a quick look today and the pinch points are pretty swollen in places also noticed the arms look pretty rusty but that’s as far as I got without removing trays etc. My question is what would be the major things to looks to strip back and seal or replace. Also are the pinch points repairable? I will try and get some pics on here tomorrow any help is much appreciated.

in this thread there is some mention of the car being limited to 250Nm, to accommodate a DQ200 but apart from that, I don't know. If you are looking at a car, you will be able to tell if it is a DQ381 by opening the bonnet and locating the screw-on filter https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/540032-servicing/#comment-6017721

Local garage not sepcslist

my shop has when missing since the new update

Nomad boot liner for a superb hatch, excellent condition. £12 Collection from DY5

do you have facebook messenger

i have the same issue since installing 0334, also the pop up boxes and to big, it is like the wrong res, does anyone know how i can reinstall . thanks

Welcome to the forum. Where was the repair for this vehicle done?

Hello, Im looking to upgrade the stock suspension on my 2018 octavia vrs but as I've never done anything like this before im not entirely confident in what im looking at. Ive been thinking about the Bilstein B12 pro suspension kit as this seems like a slight upgrade over Oem and im not all that interested in lowering too much. I appreciate any suggestions or advice anyone may have, Cheers

https://www.skoda-parts.com/online-store.html If you register on there and stick your vin in and save the car, it’s a good way of cross checking part numbers

Without any pictures I'm not 100% sure what you are talking about but looking at pictures of Roomster engine bays online I think it's similar to our Citigo... If you undo the positive terminal to the battery the fuses and plastic boxes on top that are fixed to the terminal should come away with it. They are, however, clipped to the side of the battery so you'll need to pull them up whilst releasing the clips by pulling the centre section outwards away from the side of the battery.

Screen seems to be good as far as I can tell. Old unit as MIB 2 worked perfectly. Some kind of issue during the upgrade corrupted the eeprom. Spent the last week learning about uart and PAB connected remotely this evening to try to fix it. But it can’t be written to or read through the terminal. Needs a physical connection to the eeprom directly to reflash it unfortunately. I have a friend who is an electronics engineer and he offered to have a look but we would both be learning what’s needed and winging it whereas I can send it to an expert and get a plug and play unit back. This is the last thing I do to the car. Essential maintenance only from here on in!

Hello! This might be the first time I've ever ventured beyond the Octavia and Fabia sections of this forum... Anyway - my folks, both in their 60s, are looking for a second car. They want something similar sized to the Golf they currently have (and have had a long line of before that) but I'm encouraging them to look at other models, in particular SUVs, because they'll probably keep this a good few years now and I think the higher seating position will be easier as they get older (not that they struggle now, they're very active). So anyway, they've seen a Karoq at a local garage, and quite like it, but they've done some research which seems to suggest that electrical issues with the infotainment system are quite common, but they were a bit vague. So, I'm seeking your experience to try and understand a bit more! Are issues with the infotainment system common? If so, what are those 'issues' and are they expensive to resolve? Are we looking at a hardware swap or just a software reset/update? Also, how does the 1.0TSI perform in a car this size? I'm not best placed to advise given my entire car history is 1.9 and 2.0TDIs. Is it comfortable both around town and on longer runs? They may occasionally use it to do trips to the other end of the country. Any other buying advice would be much appreciated! Thanks

Was the old screen bad well? I managed to get mine done remotely with a lot of hacking and me buying a UART board and a very helpful bloke in Telegram. I spent a few days beforehand driving around listening to a Bluetooth speaker in the car and hoped I wouldn't have to access anything on the screen

Thanks @travs those are the exact ones I am looking at and look to give the appearance I am after Thanks

Unfortunately after an evening spent connected to @pab567 we had no luck. Cannot read or write to EEPROM so it’s being sent to him to repair on the bench. Fingers crossed it’s relatively straight forward.

Spent the evening connected to @pab567 in an attempt to revive my failed MIB 2 to 2.5 upgrade. Unfortunately it’s not in a state to be recovered remotely so the MIB unit is off on holiday to Poland for some TLC.

I tried Gummi Pflege - it didn’t work.

Yes, a version of Krytox has been the correct "thing" to use on these door seals to stop this sort of noise AND freezing up in tricky winter conditions. VW Group call it gummi pflege.

Premium Ridex parts (as opposed to base range) are certainly good in so far as I have used them. I have 2 steel brake discs (zinc coated) and an airco condenser/dryer on my Mk3 Octavia vRS for some years now. Have not used any parts in their base range, so cannot comment on those. On the particular topic of zinc coated brake discs, Ridex ones were 40% price of the ECP ones at the time ....

I did before lowering etc. Forge 11mm front and rear with longer bolts in one set. Standard wheels and suspension at the time of those photos.

It is not possible to talk directly to the Skoda warranty department, only the extended warranty department who can't help. Your only port of call is customer services but even when you reach management level they have no control over warranty claims. I have plenty if emails from customer services but you will not get one from warranties. They only deal direct with the dealership who can confirm things to you by email. They win, it's wrong, but they win and now that the ombudsman is on their side they always will.

You can only go by what is stipulated in the body protection warranty regards what you are required to do, which is report the corrosion as soon as it is found (to a dealer in the network). Nothing changes the fact that your warranty is with Skoda. Skoda can contract out aspects of its business to third parties if it wishes. However, you don't have a decision until you have the decision in writing from Skoda. Email Skoda and get a response by email if necessary, don't phone. In regards to the Motor Ombudsman, my experience is that after a year, you get a response from an Ombudsman understudy type. You do get a decision at that stage, but if you want an actual ombudsman to look at it, I am at 3 years total currently and still waiting.

Hi Can anybody help? I have a Skoda and enyaq 22 plate full Electric car was involved in accident repaired the car. I changed the fuse at the battery underneath the car had an electrician look at it but couldn’t start it. I changed the two Roofer bags. Seat bag got the seatbelt reconditioned. Only thing I haven’t changed is the Airbag module the electrician said that there’s no communication to get it started. I am quite stuck. Don’t know what to do. Can anyone help?