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@petertr Yes, I did the same but with Archoil, Millers wasn't available at the moment - I bought 5L can and refill a small bottle before or after I go to the gas station. Premium diesel is good, but with these fuel prices, it's just not an option. Adding this stuff makes the engine less noisy and reduces the DPF regens, or at least I think it does :D

Or message me with VIN.

Skoda haven't fitted a sticker for years.

Hi folks, I've recently got myself a 2010 Scout with what I believe to be the Bolero system. It doesn't have an sat nav in it, not an problem. It has a button that say 'phone' but all that does is mute the radio! Any ideas if it will actually connect to a mobile phone. When I try and connect via bluetooth, there are no obvious connections available. I'm guessing the answer will be "nope" It does have a slot for an SD card. I've copied a load of tracks onto an brand new card but when I insert the card, I get a message about the card not being recognised. Does anyone know a way of testing if this can be resolved. I have discovered that it can take 6 CD's so my personal music choices can be expanded. I also have a Pure Highway digital radio so all is not lost music wise. Cheers.

Hi everyone, I've searched the forum and found several similar tailgate problems, but I haven't been able to find a solution that exactly matches my case. If this has already been discussed or solved elsewhere, my apologies, and I'd really appreciate a link to the relevant thread. I preferred to start a new topic rather than resurrect an old one because my symptoms are slightly different. However, I've read the previous cases and will test the suggested solutions, particularly the latch/closing-assist mechanism, and report the results here. Car: Skoda Superb III, 2017, 3V3 Liftback (not Estate/Combi), 1.4 TSI 150 PS, DSG7 automatic. Main problemPressing the opening button operates the latch, but the tailgate does not lift by itself. If I give it a small manual push, the electric drive starts working, raises it to approximately 1/4 of its travel and stops. Normally it will not power-close either. Pressing the button only produces the "beep beep" warning. The interesting part is that when the car correctly detects the boot as open and the open-tailgate symbol appears on the instrument cluster, the tailgate can sometimes continue electrically all the way to fully open. If it reaches fully open, it can sometimes power-close normally as well. Because of this, we're particularly interested in the latch/closing-assist mechanism and the signals used by 6D to determine whether the tailgate is open or closed. VCDS findings so farBoth position sensors track each other extremely closely. For example, at approximately 24% opening: Position Sensor 1: 512 Position Sensor 2: 511 Rear lid position: 24% When completely closed, both sensors return to 0. After clearing the previous faults and reproducing the problem, 6D currently stores no new DTC. I have also tried: Rear lid: reset standardization Adapt flap opening angle Both Basic Settings start but remain indefinitely on Running and never complete. 6D controllerSW: 5Q0 959 107 L HW: 5Q0 959 107 J Component: HDSG-Modul H13 0261 Coding: 1008 ASAM: EV_DeckLidCONTIAU736 001014 I'm using VCDS 21.9.0 x64 with an AliExpress interface which cannot be updated, so I'm also keeping in mind the possibility of a limitation with this VCDS/interface setup. What I'm looking forApart from ideas about the fault itself, I'm particularly looking for data from a known-good Superb Mk3 3V3 Liftback (not Estate): complete 6D Controller Map, 6D Adaptation Map / ADP map, 6D coding/configuration, and, if possible, measuring values related to the latch/closing assist and reasons for cancellation/stopping of tailgate movement. Ideally from the same or a very similar module: 5Q0 959 107 L HW: 5Q0 959 107 J HDSG-Modul H13 0261 EV_DeckLidCONTIAU736 001014 Coding: 1008 I don't want to run Resetting all adaptations until I have backed up my current configuration and, preferably, have a known-good configuration for comparison. If anyone has a 3V3 Liftback with an electric tailgate and VCDS, or has experienced similar symptoms, any information would be greatly appreciated. I'll update the thread with the results of further tests and, of course, the solution if we manage to find the cause. Thanks!

Date of manufaktured is 30 05 2026

How long do you leave the battery on charge at each 2 month charging interval?, does it display the charging voltage and if so do you leave it charging until the voltage falls to some known/recommended level?.

If that's the app that lets you lock the car, start the heating etc - yes I have that. Always have. Still no OTA update other than this daily UI update one. Is there a way to trigger it to start either in the car or on the app? Have never been to a dealer with this car, its 2021, so hardly under warranty or anything. Have the SOS error too at the moment (and the charger flap fail, which is going to get fixed next week)

I looked into this years ago when I worked night shifts and had countless hours on my hands. Came to the conclusion that Millers Diesel Eco Max or whatever it is called wouldn't hurt, and could well help. Found it was largely the same thing that fuel stations add to their standard fuel to make it their premium version, just that it works out miles cheaper to do it yourself. So yeah, I bought a huge can of the stuff, and added it to all the diesel cars I had from then onwards. No longer own one but gave the leftovers to my dad who uses it in his Seat.

Yes the OTA update 0334 for the infotainment seems to fix the issue... If you have the "connect services" subscription then you should receive it automatically. If not, you can ask the dealer to do it, because of the daily updates they may accept as it's really a "Bugfix". Otherwise there is a manual way to update the firmware cus USB I think. There are some links on the forum somewhere. Gabbo

Hi, i installed automatic lighting into my car but I cant get it to work. I put in a sensor part number 5q0955547b, light switch 5E0941431D and add a repair cable from pin 2 on the connector block on the light switch to pin 16 on the 72 pin plug to the bcm. Then on vcds i changed byte 6 to installed. The automatic windscreen wiper work. I have tried bought another switch and also tried a different cable. 1 Fault Found: 929796 - Light Switch U110B 00 [00001001] - No Communcations [Lichtschalterkeine Kommunikation] It also shows the part number for the sensor Rain/Light Recognition Sensor: Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 5Q0 955 547 B HW: 5Q0 955 547 B Labels: 5Q0-955-547.CLB Component: RLHS 042 0105 Serial number: S5Y16M12D22H06M57S19 Coding: 07805D

It's a RSC608, but I think this model was updated a few years ago.

Hi, please accept my apologies for not responding, this is my first time back on the forum since the car went, it was pretty much as bazz2004 has described, no clear explanation as to what the issue was, just booked into their workshop and collected it later that day and all was sorted, but I’m afraid that was it for me, we genuinely liked the car it was a good all rounder but we just couldn’t see past this breakdown, I wish you all the best 👍

I haven't been offered a system update, just daily for that UI update for months. Any way to trigger it to happen?

Several duplications of faults regarding the scratched wheels appear to 'pad' the rectification list, plus look to have fitted cheap replacement tyres.

Still having the issue, assume I'm on an old FW version - is that the fix, updating the FW? Is there a simple guide to doing that?

I searched high and low on my 2024 Mk4.5 to find such a sticker. It appears that it was never there. VIN decoder, car info, factory equipment (PR codes) for Audi VW Seat Skoda VAG £4.72Unit price £4.72 Item number: 286236597304 The above item from an ebay seller tells you every little detail about your car.

Video Processing is in the Main Unit. Glovebox

My first wash of the gutter channel on the barrel of the Veritate rims involved a microfibre towel and my little finger! I consoled myself that, given time, practice, ingenuity and this forum, I will find a better and faster method. It will happen!

She looks lovely, thanks for the pic! I know the wheels are a complete pain but they make such a difference to the stance of the car IMHO. My dealer ceramic coated our car as a no cost option. Unsure if I would have paid extra and I was a bit ungrateful when the Sales Manager explained it all to me. But they were right and it has made it easier to wash, the water beads brilliantly (as well as my Blackfire sealant and wax) but it will last longer than the traditional approach. Ours is the Autoglym Cerafuse coating. I haven't yet warped the toothbrushes or tried them on the car, having only washed her once since we took delivery. I have invested in some new Braun Wheel Woolies - the new ones have a 45deg angle. I absolutely hate washing the rims, any rims but especially the Veritate 19" ones. Anything that makes cleaning the inner barrel or reverse side of the spokes easier is money well spent. Enjoy your lovely new Superb.

Hi all anyone know where the code sticker is in a skoda octavia mk4.5 facelift 2024. I can't find it anywhere.

@Cairus any ideas? I've had issues with the infotainment systems in all my cars. The Leon would literally freeze up in the winter, the Octavia needs a reboot every few days, CarPlay randomly freezes with some kinda red/white flash thing, and the system in the BMW constantly stutters the audio coming out of the £1600 option HK system. Best solution? Phone mount and a bluetooth speaker.

Following. Nothing major as I check my nuts (and bolts) regularly, but still worth knowing. I'll ask around with my main dealer friends.

Sorry - read this last night and then got sidetracked. Please let me know if I've missed anyting. A FL Octavia vRS 230 does not have the VAQ diff. The easiest and most foolproof way to check is to confirm that the interior stitching is white, and that you have solid rear brake discs (which will be 272mm), rather than vented (310mm)? Did you get a good deal? How much did you pay, and what is the mileage? I'd normally avoid buying from Cinch as the majority of their stuff is part-ex/leasure return stock obtained from BCA and WBAC (their parent company). If it's a good deal, however, then that's a different story, provided you know what you're buying. An EPC light can mean a million things. In the simplest form, it means the car has detected a fault with the throttle, engine management or the electronic system. The first step is to see what DTCs have been thrown. I doubt it's the battery, given your description of events. My money would be on an ignition coil having an issue under load, a boost issue, or potentially a fuelling issue. At high RPM (above 5k) these cars can also suffer with oil pressure problems. Reading everything, it does potentially indicate a car that hasn't been cared for that well. Two cut tyres, one over-worn and one being the incorrect size... none of these are good things! The oil seperator is interesting though, as that's part of the PCV system that is a) known to be an issue and b) could be relevant to the EPC light. The boost pipe is also intersting, see my above point on a boost issue. I'm a bit confused about the first point on their list... leaking engine oil, so the water pump/therm housing was replaced? Eh? For context, these engines, along with many, many more, have a plastic housing on the thermostat/water pump. Over time, and many heat cycles, this housing becomes weak, cracks and leaks coolant. I think my car (a very tidy 2020 on 40k miles) may have this issue developing. Okay, sure, the housing is right next to the oil filter, etc, but there's no relation. I think the car had a coolant leak (hence the new pump) and an oil leak (hence the new VVT seals and timing cover). What would I do? That's a tricky one. I purchased my car as part of an agreement with a main SEAT/Skoda/CUPRA dealer as a replacement for a previous car they sold me with hidden crash damage. I wouldn't trust them as far as I could throw them, and checked everything myself, before having my mechanic tear the car apart too. Hell, I was sat on the forecourt running diagnostics and checking the specs list against the PR codes and VIN. It's good that you've done your research and checks. None of these issues are great, but they're also not terrible. Crap tyres, leaky shock, knackered water pump and some dinged body panels are par for the course on an eight year old Skoda. I would see what they say about the cause of the EPC light, and go from there.

I lubricated mine and manually operated until smooth. It was sticking at a certain point. Lasted another two years plus without any further problems. Alas old skoda is now a parts donor due to rust. Thats a fair list of repairs but nothing serious (mostly cosmetic). Tyres I havent heard of ?? See how they are when driving. They are Xload so will have stiffer side walls. Only thing that jumps out is shock absorber replaced due to leaking. They are normally done in pairs to keep suspension in balance and I would have replaced timing chain etc as they had the cover off but at 86k reckon wouldnt need doing. Alasdair