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A small update on this. I visited a dealer today and had a really long look around a new unregistered Sportline seven seater. I lifted the boot floor and it had properly mounted space saver tyre. It therefore appears that the configurator may be accurate as it allows the purchaser to select the space saver on a seven seater and the brochure is probably wrong when it says that we cannot have one. 😕 Anyway, with the seven seater SEL I ordered, I opted for the space saver, so we’ll see what arrives. 👍🫰

I think that what happened was, VW Group or their coolant supplier BASF, became a bit more environmentally aware and so "greened" the coolant and so G12++ became G13, some time after this, VW Group or BASF became aware that for some engine version uses or at least the typical working temperature was causing enough silicate to get depleted to cause concerns. This was addressed by "sort of" providing silicate pouches for some model/engine combinations - so some models/engines were sent out with the "Mit Silicate" reservoirs while at the same production/sales periods, some cars were sent out without these pouches in the reservoirs. While my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS - factory filled with G13 aged, it was sent out without a silicate pouch in the reservoir, the ph level in the coolant changed quite quickly - compared with my older daughter's 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra - factory filled with G13, which has a "Mit Silikat" reservoir - so these pouches do seem to do what they need to. I think that VW Group was gaining info about this G13 as time went on, and if they had had enough info on G13 in the 1.2TSI 16V engines, that 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS would have been sent out from the factory complete with a "Mit Silikat" reservoir!

Just finished. Car starts and goes/brakes but haven't tried it properly yet. I'm worn out! Will update on the issues later, need a wash first! Thanks to all the heads on this forum who provided the 'how-to's'...esp. Bowders. Main problem was hopeless jubilee clips and the damn 19mm hose being too chunky to bend, etc. And the spring retaining clip on the manifold 90degree section. Talk about ripped up hands....who designed that was one evil guy. The one-use hose clips were another nightmare; I expect I've punctured some other hoses but I'll find out in a bit. I left the N249 plugged in, on the advice of someone who knows this stuff. Resistor on the N122 line. Air pump still in the engine, but redundant- gave up trying to get it out. No error codes...yet

Open the shop application from the main menu. Wait for it to load & then click the settings icon (bottom right). At the last screen click information... It displays the shop application version

I am about to change cars from a 2019 Superb Business edition to a new Kodiaq. I have dozens and dozens of destinations in the Superb satnav that I will need in the Kodiaq. Is there any way that they can be migrated between cars to save me having to add them all manually to the new car which would likely take me about a day to do. The internet suggests its not possible, due to the Kodiaq using a different kind of satnav technology for its operating system and memory, but I was wondering if anyone has come up with a non-too techie way to do this?

Thanks! How / where can you see this updates references?

As far as I can see, in the linked post there's everything I need to make them work/replace

As Lee has mentioned it's a cover for the pop-up headlamp washer. If you have problems finding one let me know as I have a complete bumper with washer covers in your grey - no longer any use to me as I have a Scout (different bumper).

65/100 in Czech Republic

@lol-lol, this bit of news will please you.

Hi All Need a favor please, today I was mucking about planning an audio upgrade and I took a look in the fuse box that sits to the right of the battery under the bonnet. There appears to be what looks like an 80A fuse to the left of the box. It seems to be missing a nut on the 10mm threaded post. Would some kind soul please take a look in there fuse box and confirm?

Victory! After replacing the USB port and wiring harness and ereasing the error. Huge thanks to @Zlatko580 for this guide and the additional help. Also thanks to @bigwhale42 for the Linux guide. I used WSL and had some pretty good fun... ...although playing with clamp was quite stressful for me :) Thanks again!

Mine are white and I can only change the intensity of them. The reason that you see them colored on your MIB is due to a faulty coding. To make sure that your footwell lights are RGB, check the wires that plug into them. If you have 3 wires, then the lights are RGB, otherwise(2 wires) they are monochrome. Further infos can be found here https://www.drive2.ru/l/591707406241650380/

The front USB/Apple car play was working not these ones Ahh I had read it was a 30amp fuse, have a 20amp so will swap that then

I'd start by checking the wiring. Previous owner may have wired the fogs to come on with the headlights. You're probably aware it's an MoT failure if fitted and not functioning. Missing cap if for the headlight washer jet. They should activate every fifth use of the screen wash if memory serves. I'd try eBay or a local breakers yard. I think they're push/ clip fit.

Hello folks, I have a couple of (hopefully!) minor issues with 2008 TDi 1.9 (BXE) Elegance estate I've just acquired. Car has covered 104k miles, FSH up to 80k, and generally looks remarkably clean inside, outside and underneath. Issues are: 1). Front driver side fog light comes on when the headlights are switched on. Both front fog lights illuminate when the fog light switch is activated. I'm not sure where to start. Should I check wiring to all front lights? Buy a scanner and check for error codes? 2). Small cover on driver side of front bumper disappeared today (see pic). What is behind it - a sensor?? Does this need covering to protect from the elements? Is a replacement available separately, without having to buy a whole bumper?! Many thanks.

It’s in the infotainment system. From memory, go to Vehicle - Exterior - Headlights; there should be an option to set the range of the headlights (1 (lowest)- 5 (highest), I think); I set it at the lowest. If you do this with the headlights on, facing a wall, you should see the beam lower or rise depending on the setting you choose.

Hi everyone, I’m looking into the service history of a Superb Mk3 iV (1.4 TSI PHEV) and noticed something interesting regarding the engine oil change intervals. From factory/initial handover, these PHEVs often seem to come on a fixed 15,000 km / 1-year regime (QI4/QI6 depending on market). However, looking at digital service prints (Elsa/Digital Service Schedule) for several ex-lease cars from Germany, I see intervals stretching to ~30,000–33,000 km between oil changes (e.g. 1st service at ~14k–15k km, but subsequent oil changes at ~47k, ~68k, or even ~103k km). A few questions for fellow iV owners: Did your dealer keep your Superb iV strictly on a Fixed 15,000 km / 1-year schedule, or did they switch/code it to Variable / LongLife (up to 30,000 km / 2 years) using VW 508.00 (0W-20) / VW 504.00? Is the variable regime actually permitted by Škoda guidelines for the 1.4 TSI EA211 hybrid, considering the cold starts and rapid transitions to high load? For those who bought cars with 30k km intervals in the digital records, have you switched back to 15k km / 1-year fixed intervals for peace of mind? Would love to hear your experiences and thoughts on whether running 30k km oil intervals on the PHEV powertrain is common practice in fleet/lease management or an oversight by dealerships. Thanks in advance!

How did you lower the beam height?

It may have been removed or broken at some point. On my sons it narrows the pipe so only unleaded nozzles fit. Not sure if you can get a replacement or if its a new filler neck/tank? Alasdair

Supposed to be 20Amp, so probably worth changing down when you can.

Thanks, had found it, seems nothing in 40, 39 yes but not 40. Added a 30Amp into 40 and we are back in business again

Same fuse as front one, fuse 40.

I'll let you know when I get the car back from the garage, but it seems not.

I've recently had a water pump & timing belt change. Had to do a trip about 400 miles -- only just been able to check the workmanship! They broke the old sensor (which they'd told me about) -- nothing a bit of araldite couldn't fix, but -- had to have a new one. Problem is they seem to have fitted a new tube as well, which I don't think is "up to spec". It's thin rubber, very flexible, so much so that it's folded into a 90 degree bend (which probably still transmits the pressure, but isn't ideal) and also split open at the connector -- which probably doesn't transmit the pressure. In the light of the risk of melting when it's not air-tight -- I'll not be driving it like this! Useful to know only one connection is normal -- I was definitely sceptical about seeing two connectors on the new sensor. (photo to follow ...)