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Checked the connectors and they are, very is in grey and black is in black. Ended up doing the hammer mod and the idle is now happy and idling at 903. Now it's totally flat between 1k and 2k revs. One step forward two back...... Still stuck on timing of 38 so next step is check the timing points all still line up

Once I had the prokit springs fitted the ride was harsh and felt like it bottomed out over holes etc, luckily I came across this forum and used ob11 to reset suspension settings but yes eager to get the slider mod done.

Yes definitely love the extra space and superb is e beautiful car. Was terrible and looked silly with the original springs, sway bar really fixed the boat feeling. Just like many on here, I drive in normal mode, mostly but find sport the best setting when driving harder. Comfort should be the normal setting, normal, sport setting and then a tighter setting for sport. But yes it’s not a hot hatch, not a golf r, I had the golf r wagon.

First mod for my superb I really want to change the upper grille I think i need these 2 parts? Can people confirm? I’ve read it’s a nightmare to do, and does require removing front bumper ideally?

Take a look a this thread that should answer your questions: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/351208-trolley-jacking-points/ I think using the pinch welds is fine strength wise but not with the she standard jack for more than a wheel change as it is very likely to slide off. MY plan is to Lift on the pads then support on the pinch welds with axle stands (With appropriate adapters). I'm looking to get some of these Powerflex pads but was hoping someone on here could first offer some advice as to whether the points are recommended by Skoda.

So scanned it no codes, thinking it may be a sticky throttle body. I had the issue a few weeks ago and pressing the accelerator got the car running. Tried cranking it again and it the engine is spinning up to 1000rpm before dying so kind of implies it is starting to fire but is failing, fuel pump is activating when cranked, looks like it will have to go to someone to get this resolved.

When I started reading this it also reminded me of the problems with the 1.5 Tsi. And I'll repeat what I've said on other forums, do the designers actually drive! As an oldie who has driven mainly manuals but with my last three and my wife's car being DSG I'd be very interested in driving one of these flawed cars to see how I get on. I pride myself on my smooth driving and still have a manual as well, being a 12 year old Audi TT 2.0 Tsi which is a joy to drive. If it exhibited the symptons mentioned on here when pulling away I'd be extremely annoyed!

Hey, My car died after being parked for 48 hours while I'm on holiday in Sardinia, far from any city or car mechanic. I would really appreciate some help confirming the correct replacement battery and the steps needed to install and register it myself. Car detailsModel: Škoda Superb III Combi (2022), L&K Engine: 2.0 TSI, 272 HP, 4×4 VIN: TMBLE9NP9N7011795 Start-Stop: Yes Current battery (factory-installed): Manufacturer: Exide (Made in Poland) Škoda/VW part number: 5TA 915 105 B BEM code on sticker: 5TA915105B Battery identification / serial: TU1A10722M03W Technology: EFB+ Capacity: 70 Ah Starting current: 700 A (EN/SAE/GS) / 420 A (DIN) Voltage: 12 V Plan of actionI'm considering two replacement options plus diagnostic tool. BatteryOption 1 - Varta Dynamic EFB N70 (570500076K262) This seems to be the closest replacement for my original Exide EFB+. 12 V, 70 Ah 760 A (EN) EFB technology Since the technology and capacity are unchanged, I'm hoping the car will work immediately after installation, even without registration. However, I'll still purchase a diagnostic adapter. I don't want to wait for battery delivery, discover that registration is necessary, and then lose another week waiting for a diagnostic tool. I'd register the battery regardless, but having it work without immediate registration would be reassuring. Option 2 - Varta Dynamic AGM A7 (570901076K262) This would be an upgrade from EFB to AGM. 12 V, 70 Ah 760 A (EN) AGM technology My understanding is that AGM offers better charge/discharge cycle durability and charge acceptance, particularly during short journeys and frequent Start-Stop operation. Since this changes the battery technology from EFB to AGM, I understand that the BMS must be configured accordingly. If the diagnostic tool can reliably handle the full registration procedure, and it's relatively straightforward, I'm leaning toward this option. Diagnostic tool I'm planning to purchase a Carista EVO with a Carista Pro subscription to register the replacement battery immediately after installation. From what I've read, Carista supports battery registration on the Superb III, but I'd appreciate confirmation from anyone who has actually used it, particularly for changing from EFB to AGM. I'm also open to other diagnostic tools if there's something more reliable, cheaper, or better suited to this task. I have a MacBook, a Windows laptop, and iPhones with me, so I'm fairly flexible regarding software and hardware. I should also mention that I don't normally work on my car myself, so this is fairly new territory for me. If I'm overlooking something obvious, please let me know. Thanks, Konrad

Might it be connected to your audio system by chance double check the color code red and black? See if it's a speaker wire

Sorry, in the previous post I wrote report to DVSC when I meant DVSA. They came back with the response that because I did not lose control of the car, it is not a recall issue. They ignored the fact that if I had stalled the car on the hill, then I would not have been able to restart it due to needing to press the clutch and maybe the accelerator at the same time... so requiring me to release the foot brake, or at least juggle my feet. ignored no warning of pending failure, or anyway to exam, if on minor slope then could have left car with hand brake on engaged, other vehicles with handbrake failures have had recall (suspect larger % of vehicle population reported that they failed) I have put in a FOIR to the DVSA for the number of reported cases and what discussions have been made with Manufacture about the issue. The FOIR has been delayed while they consider if it is subject to Section 31 (either there is a case pending, or they don't want to show negligence on their part and not in public interest????). I have my original handbrake and a the new button I bought and garage used to test it did not fix problem. I've since put button on and it will now not flick off, although it did the first time I tried it when I got it home, go figure. Please report to DVSA, numbers matter, especially if car rolled or felt lost in dangerous situation I found a Skoda document API 11/2014, online showing changed something in 2014 (CW14/2014 Introduce a fixture to fit the locking mechanism at manufacturer). Symptoms: The handbrake button unexpectedly releases, causing the internal spring to fall out. Because the internal pawl can no longer lock into the ratchet teeth, the handbrake lever fails to stay up and defaults to the "brake not applied" position. Cause: Structural damage or clearance issues within the leather sleeve assembly allowing the locking mechanism to unseat. Factory Fix (CW14/2014): Škoda introduced a dedicated manufacturing fixture during Calendar Week 14 of 2014 to ensure the locking mechanism is perfectly aligned and secured during assembly. Vehicles suffering from this failure typically require a full replacement of the handbrake lever assembly. They won't confirm anything in writing about how many they have seen, what got altered in 2014, but some good will given.

The issue I have is that I turn it on at the start of the journey, but then go on a motorway and it can get confused by the centre railing and blind the cars coming the other way, if I pull it back on the stalk it will blind the cars in front. Or I'm on a dark road with no lighting, and following another car, so it is lighting up the path full beam but there are people walking on it, the car will not dip the lights for the walkers, so I don't seem to have an option to put it to low beam other then blinding the car in front .

I have had to change mine a couple of times. I always have a spare battery in my wallet and another in the top cubby hole just in case, always Panasonic.

Really like the 1.5 sportline Karoq and the dealer tells me it’s an ATC model.I came from a cupra and understand it will when it’s ready to run on 2 cylinders but no blue light or eco icon shows up.

Hi, I have just seen that Carista claims (https://carista.com/apps/supported-cars/skoda/superb/mk4_sfd), that there are some customization possibilities like refual quantitym pressure display (I guess tire pressure), or some dashboard themes. Have anyone tried it? Thanks.

I prefer to do it on most cars as usually they tyres on the driven axle wear a lot quicker than the non-driven one. I also usually put CrossClimate tyres on our cars at the first tyres change so that means changing all four and it's a waste to change the rears (on a FWD car) when the rears might still have 5mm on them. Costco used to offer a bigger discount if you bought 4 tyres at once, but they stopped doing that some years ago. Having said that, you're supposed to have the least worn tyres on the back, so waiting until the fronts are well worn then sticking them on the back isn't a great idea. In the US they like to rotate tyres every 5K miles - it's part of the wear guarantee on many tyres there. Interestingly, on our Hyundai EV, tyre rotation is part of the 20K service. Dealer (service manager) laughed and said they never do it.

Hi Not yet. My friend came up and ran his code reader that didn't give any further information on the problem. He thinks it's probably a broken or corroded wire or a wire that's come off a tab - there's one right next to the oil filter. Unfortunately I'm not able to scrabble around under the car so I'm waiting for my partner to come home in a couple of weeks to have a look.

Can y0u prescribe me a brave pill please?

Yes, what you say, @Neily03 is the only way. If you enter a lit area whilst on auto (so it becomes dipped all the time) there's no way to take it out of auto until you stop. Even pulling the stalk back - giving other road users a flash in the process- doesn't reset it. It stays on auto until you switch off the engine.

Pull it back white its actually on high beam.

Hello Briskoda, I'm looking for plans for housing for a Sub in the boot. I'd like to make something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/178156746495?_ul=GB&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338365712&toolid=20006&customid=CjwKCAiAhqHXBhAXEiwATbksU10fcAmPmU5DhypBftjFMbltN2PVTxK_y_e4UVF8jg1glebzXcv9bxoCJRYQAvD_BwE%7C0AAAAADANKJkHWDmZESEhaytaRbtG6nG3G%7Cnull&gclid=CjwKCAiAhqHXBhAXEiwATbksU10fcAmPmU5DhypBftjFMbltN2PVTxK_y_e4UVF8jg1glebzXcv9bxoCJRYQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAADANKJkHWDmZESEhaytaRbtG6nG3G&loc_physical_ms=9045885&adtype=pla - it's a lot of money to pay for just a box. Has anyone made their own box? Equally if anyone's selling one i'd been keen to talk! Cheers

what do you advise then? I think £270 is steep for a Oil & Inspection Service - then another £116 for Brake Fluid Change?

Kwik fit / Halfords tyre centres! What is the worst that can happen.??? Lots. Then there is the health check you might get, and we are back to advising discs or pads.

No, FW0480 is final by Skoda

Many thanks for your replies.

I never bother with tyre rotation. I don't believe in it as the suspension geometry at each corner - Tracking, Camber etc - is different therefore you are switching tyres that have worn to match a particular suspension geometry to another corner with a different suspension geometry. The tyres just won't work properly. I used to race and even using tyres on the same corners on a clockwise circuit often wouldn't work if the same tyres had already been used on an anti-clockwise circuit. I accept that is very more extreme case but it demonstrates the point.