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If the washer pump is actually operating without any fluid appearing at the rear nozzle, I'd be checking for a blockage, kink or leak - possibly where the washer hose loops between the body and the rear hatch/tailgate.

My wife had a cold run to the borders yesterday, was getting about 3.6m/kWh. As we've only had the car in good weather so far it's quite the hit from the 4.2 we've been getting. Still the previous ID.4 would have been around 3.4 m/kWh in similar conditions.....

No luck yet. Coded Instruments 17 and ABS 03, Also tried Electronics Byte 8. After coding & scanning there were no errors and the dash TPMS warning now lights momentarily at IGN on for dash lamp self test. Checked a front tyre pressure at 2.4 Bar, did ABS TPMS reset via vcds (accepted) & drove around the block. Reduced pressure to 2 Bar and repeated the test drive. No TPMS warning. I know on my V.W working ABS TPMS is very sensitive, it comes on after a tyre change when new tread is thicker and rolling radius increases. I've sometimes had it come on working on the car IGN on and jacking a wheel. I'm puzzled that if it was simple to enable, they would have done so on the car when new. According to vcds labels, resetting TPMS in the ABS controller should work without a reset button and the only thing left could be that first hard reset is an enabling function? From a few photos of past mod. kits, one wire end had a connector pin. I'll guess that's the wire for the ABS connector.

Try skoda-parts.com. Highly recommend!

I normally stay away from Champion as have found there plugs not very reliable. Not sure about there glowplugs but generally I use NGK on everything and have had no problems. Old mechanic friend said get engine hot before trying to remove glow plugs and also a bit of engine oil/releasol dripped around them for a day or two before attempting removal. Alasdair

...because database has been updated to v70.

Haven't noticed on mine either - have you got adjustable rideheight?

links in head post have been updated 2026. Q3

I am in need of the same update software: MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P0080L_MU8755

I posted in 2024 on this thread above with my experience. I see that others are affected by it. I went back in my garage to find my old handbrake to take photos, because it is not intuitive how the handbrake works until you see its insides. My car is 65 plate, delivered Nov 2015, leather version (SE L). My problem was that the plastic pawl was broken, NOT the button. See attached photos. Broken Plastic pawl. This ATTACHES to the button, with a spring underneath. The spring pressure acts on the button to PUSH it, and therefore the plastic rod FORWARDS. Sideways view of plastic rod inside the handle. The rod attaches to a Claw (grey colour) via a pivot (shiny silver colour). This picture simulates the Button Pressed, Rod pushed back, the Claw is disengaged from the fixed ratchet (black colour). This picture simulates parked position. Button is not pressed, Rod is pushed forwards under spring pressure, the claw is engaged onto ratchet. This picture simulates button OR pawl failure (or just pressing the button). Without the button or spring, there are NO forces acting on the plastic rod at all, pulling it forward or back. It will be luck whether it engages with ratchet at all. It is easy for the plastic rod to "fall" backwards, this disengages the claw from the ratchet. Note the claw and ratchet is greased. Label on the handbrake assembly that was removed. So you see I had the 5E0711301D manufactured 11/09/15 and it broke in 2024. Very similar to how others found it, button and spring randomly in cabin. Hopefully that helps others understand what is happening. This is why I said in my original post it is not intuititve how the handbrake works because of the way the button and spring interacts with the plastic rod. Lose the spring, you lose the ratchet engagement, and you lose functionality. I still maintain it is a ridiculously non-proportinate critical failure: a tiny plastic breakage of the button or plastic pawl leads to a significant safety problem. You can replace a broken button relatively simply (it is actually an instruction to do this when replacing handbrake cables) but with a broken pawl, you will need to replace this assembly. For those budding engineers, this is a good study in FMEA/FMECA.

They really do look genuine 👍 But, was it an option offered by Skoda? I can't see any mention of it in any literature. Yeah, the absence of the rear parking sensors is odd, with the car being an Elegance model they should be standard. Looks like an aftermarket rear sensor has been installed.

Will try.

Controller 17 Byte 02 Bit 00

Buy a Battery Charger with low miles these modern cars need charging now and then !

After 4 years I'm getting my old fabia sleeper back

Thanks for all your help. Rather than buy the switch and find it won't work, I'll try getting a wire to the ABS module and connect an ordinary push button switch. I still can't understand why just coding 03 hasn't worked to activate and show a dash warning. Perhaps I've misled myself after coding 03, TPMS was actually active and the dash warning reset to off, so I have to drive, then let some air out of a tyre to confirm?

You can turn it off via the steering wheel buttons. For me it's the ones on the right side of the steering wheel. Press the button above the chrome rotary control, a menu should appear in the dash, the top line should be lane assist, press (not turn) on the chrome rotary button, the tick should vanish, lane assist is off until the next engine start.

I wish. Yea 2018 Still no further forward, sent VIN to autodoc and they sent me a link containing 34 parts which is no better than my initial search containing a mix of valeo/denso

4 days ago left home fully charged, and did 160 miles and had 5 miles range left. £3.50 Temp about 10 degrees C and some rain. Windy . Today fully charged after paying £26. 0-3 degrees max. Used 65% of battery in 68 miles. There was a diversion of an extra 10 miles because of a crash. Just put in a charge to 52% to get home. Showing 100 miles range. Still 3 degrees C. I will see how much left to 75 miles. Some 70 mph, then the rest will be an average of under 50 mph. Cold weather and all season tyres. PS EDIT, never went above 5 degrees C. 67 miles driven and 10 miles left showing.

Single wire, Job from about 20-30 min Controller 03 Byte 16 Bit 02 For Hardware Button

I think 28 must be a typo - unless you have a DeLorean 😁

I doubt you'll find wiring sitting ready for use, so I'd suggest getting that done if you plan to go ahead with this. In case you don't know, KL15 means an ignition switched supply, KL31 is earth, and KL58d is the backlighting supply for various switches, often a grey/blue wire. Getting the wire through to the ABS module may present the biggest challenge if it isn't already present.

Yet another example of an "Italian Tune" being the solution.

That's the problem, with the clutches disengaged there's no engine braking - so the only way to decelerate is by using the brakes, which means you use the brakes more as you're using them from a higher speed. Since I measured no improvement in mpg in Eco all Eco did was increase brake usage, and hence wear and cost. So for me Eco was increasing my running costs, with no reduction in CO2 emissions and an increase in PM2.5 emissions from greater brake usage. Kinda makes Eco not really Eco?

I'd think that the Ceramic grease will be okay, I only use that on the callipers, for the hub<>disc I use a spot of aluminium grease and add extra on the outer side - round about the disc<>hub joining point at-and the projecting part of the hub to made removing the alloy wheels easier next time. It's normally safe enough to give the "barrel" of the old discs a few heavy whacks to release them from their "rust bond" to the hubs. I'd say that I normally intend to remove the discs from new cars and apply a very slight coat of probably aluminium grease to the hub face then refit the discs, if you plan in keeping a car for a few years and also doing your own service/repairs, you'll appreciate having made the effort to do this further down the line as the discs will be free to remove after taking the retaining screws out.