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Hi, I bought my first Skoda and signed up here on Briskoda back in 2009. I was so impressed with the car I moved to the Czech Republic (ok not real reason 🙂 ) Now back in ownership with a Mk3 Octavia RS tdi.

They're different beasts; Superb is larger MQB-B chassis; longer and heavier. The car isn't a hot hatch and is a Passat equivalent so better at motorway munching with much better interior space. Whiteline rear arb is good - hopefully on the stiffest setting. I found although the droplinks weren't necessary, you can notice the firmer bushes based in uprated ones.

I don’t NEED a sports car, but i’m so glad I have my 1979 MG Midget, the antidote to modern all-singing all-dancing cars… 😎

So I tried to start my 2.0TDI crmb engine this morning and I had crank with some spluttering but no start. I've had this a few weeks ago but after a few cranks got it going, but today no luck. It's cranking between 500-1000rpm, glow plug light is off and after failing to crank i getting brake manoeuvring unavailable. I have a new battery replaced on Thursday and coded correctly, tested it and it was showing at 12.4v. Any ideas on what it might be? Anything to test?

I have had a look. Sorry, but what do you mean by the rear of the unit? Are the rubber covers where you change the bulbs?

You won't get any action from the dealer, they'll deny knowledge of a problem. Report it as a safety issue to the DVSA as I suggested above

Good morning all - I promise I have tried but I am loosing the will to live with the search as it is such a common string - The problem is I am trying to research going for a wider tyre on our car with a wider wheel but same size (18) We have the standard alloys at present on our estate - these are 18x7.5 I think - the standard 18's that come on a 2014 VRS estate - they come with a 225/40/18. The car is presently in having some serious maintenance done so not seen it for good few weeks... new subframe rear, B12 Kit, new Turbo, DMF, Clutch and we have owned this car from almost new and the wife loves it... Can't really fault it or the 120+ K she has done in it but.... Wheels.... We are considering a set of the old Ronal A8 18's - What I am after is anyone that has run a 235 width on the mk3.. I hoping going for a 235 would give her a little protection from curbs as the same alloys I have seen with 225 seem a little stretched to me and I think she'd be gutted first time she curbed them with any stretch... Will 235's catch the inner arch/strut is my concern? I suspect rears be fine but looking for any experience with 235's on the mk3.. I am presuming everything else will clear as the Ronal's an very similar to present setup but offset I think will push the wheels out a tad and with the small drop from the Eibach setup but I did not think this would be an issue.... things that concern we are arch scrub loaded up or inner arch liner/interferance... 235 V stretch 225 - We already have the 225's on standard rims but can't help thinking the stretch will catch her out is all.... prob over thinking it but never seen an Mk3 running the old school Ronal's which makes me thing there are issues but these are 18.8x5 112x5 Et 45 - the original fat fives as I know them. Anyone any advise, experience or know anyone that runs these on anything in the VAG MQB range and can feedback around interference or work needed.. Have a good, Bobby

No such issues with mine. All seems to work fine

That's great advice, thanks. I will take a look.

To me this sound more of a phone issue then the car, is google maps and the phone OS up to date, am guessing that you are using wireless are the moment, have you tested it using a usb cable, as that would rule out any wireless interference issue. My guess would be if its suddleing stopped working, is the phone had done an app update that has a bug in it and causing something on the phone to crash, what modal phone are you using.

I second the above - my daughters suffered similar misting of the nearside unit on a 2017. I found run off from the bonnet was falling straight on to the indicator bulb holder so used some silicon grease on that to prevent ingress there, ran PTFE tape over the top of the headlight at the joint between the 'glass' and rear section and also used some duck tape to direct water run off from the bonnet away from the indicator bulb holder. No more problems since.

Hi pab567 Could you send me the link for the 0369 please? Cheers Dale

The seal along the join between front and rear of unit has probably failed. It did on one of mine so I ran a bead of clear sealant along the join and ran my finger along to smooth it out. Job done. However it may not be needed. On the rear of the unit there are 2 rubber covers. Pop them off, leave it for a few hours and it will clear itself. That may sort it or you can use a hair drier blowing through the openings which will speed things up. Have a look at the rubber covers as they may be damaged or not sitting around the opening properly.

I do too, they have a weird side effect that the electrics don't shut down properly when you switch the ignition off if any of the other interior lights are turned on!

I just asked for a diagnostic for this intermittent cut out at traffic lights and slow revs but was told they want £150 pounds to check it the car is still under warranty and has had this fault from new they originally tested it and said no fault found.

Are this covers aftermarket good? Febi?

Now it is time to Check you tires. Go to road hunter test. Test ocour road force in simulation with load. IF the road force were under 60 niutons it should be ok. But tire technican Can optymalize set of tire in realiom to wheel ring. I had to throw away 2 tires because road force was ocet 100 niutons

Yeah, I meassured dimension on every wheels, Its aproximetely 0,2mm difference between center and wheel - OEM. Orginal bolt are spherical, thats why it centre by this surface not by the center hub. I used insulatoon tape 0,13, in my opinion, vibration still exist. Of course you have right, 0,2mm its too much.

These ones. Had no issues. The black trim needed a tiny fettle for them to install perfectly but otherwise have been perfect. I just found this on AliExpress: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJBESM6

I don’t know if I am being stupid and missing something, but I don’t seem to be able to turn off the auto high beam once I have turned it on without flash banging other drivers. From what I can tell once the car is started and you turn on the auto high beam by pushing the stalk forward, there is no way to turn it off again without flashing the main beam, if you push the stalk forward it turns on the normal high beam, if you pull back on the stalk to flashes the high beam. Am I doing something wrong?

Highly probable that the AE switch is faulty, strongly suggest getting genuine OE replacement from another source.

Found this on AI not sure if it helps plus above my expertise. 1. Check for a Swapped Connector (Common Mistake) The plug for the G80 Needle Lift Sensor (Injector #3) and the plug for the N108 Timing Valve (located underneath the injection pump) use identical 2-pin connectors. The Issue: It is incredibly easy to accidentally swap these two plugs during a timing belt job or head rebuild. If swapped, the ECU tries to read the timing signal from the actuator solenoid and vice versa. The Fix: Trace the wiring. Ensure the plug coming down from Injector #3 is connected to its true engine harness partner, not the N108 solenoid loom. 2. Verify VCDS is in "Basic Settings" Mode If you are observing the value 38 while inside standard Measuring Blocks (08), the ECU is actively using the N108 solenoid to electronically correct and fight your physical movements. This can mask your adjustments on screen while causing the engine to clatter or stall. The Fix: You must click [Switch to Basic Settings] inside Group 000. When you do this, the glow plug light on your dashboard should start flashing. If the glow plug light is not flashing, you are not in Basic Settings, and the timing number will not reflect your adjustments. 3. Check Group 004 Data (The "Blindness" Test) To verify if the ECU can actually see the timing, exit the graph and go to [Meas. Blocks - 08] -> Group 004 while the engine is idling: Field 2 (Specified Start of Injection): Look for what the ECU wants (usually around 0.5° to 2.0° BTDC at idle). Field 3 (Actual Start of Injection): Look at what the engine is doing. If this field stays locked at 0.0° or 0.5° BTDC and never shifts when you rev the engine or move the pump, the ECU is not receiving the signal from Injector #3, despite the injector's resistance being good. This points to a broken wire further up the loom toward the ECU bulkhead. Field 4 (Cold Start Valve Duty Cycle): If this is stuck at a flat 3.0% or 96.8%, the ECU has given up trying to control the timing loop. 4. Check the Pump Hub Mechanical Offset If the mechanical timing belt installation is off by an entire tooth on the injection pump sprocket, you can experience a clatter-to-stall sweep while the internal windows of the pump hub remain physically outside the window of what the ECU's internal algorithm can map. The Fix: Pin the engine to absolute TDC. If you cannot drop the factory locking pin straight into the injection pump hub cleanly, the belt needs to be loosened and the pump repositioned by one tooth. Alasdair

I have a Skoda Citigo (2017). The nearside headlight appears to be misty. I think this is condensation. Any advice how to cure this would be appreciated. Thanks.

Did you mean that this issue with wheel centring? This tape could solve issue when u do not have OE wheels, but my car vibrates only sometimes- on the same speed on TA sometimes vibrates and sometimes not

That’s the difficult part: a manufacturer’s goodwill contribution and an official safety recall are two very different things. If VW has acknowledged an issue in Spain, I’d try to establish whether it’s covered by a formal recall, a service campaign or just a technical service bulletin. The distinction matters because the remedies and customer rights can be quite different. It’s also worth checking the VIN with a VW dealer and the relevant national vehicle-safety authority rather than relying only on what a dealership says. If the fault is recurring, keep the inspection reports, invoices and all correspondence in writing. That gives you a much stronger position if you need to challenge a refusal to cover the repair.